Sovran81

For lacing, yes drill. You want the lacing to be flat entering or exiting the holes. Most times you would tuck the lacing under the edge of the glued leathers. It is less likely to be seen and can be beaten down to be unobtrusive.

Then I was correct.

Listen to Wiz. I try to. The man is a sewing machine encyclopedia with search function.

I have seen projects made with it, but cant seem to source it. I am looking for 20-24oz veg tan. If you have run across this at a supplier please let me know where. Thanks.

I am not familiar with that thread size. Here is a chart that lists different needle thread combos. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html If the combined thickness of your holster is 6 oz, then the 206 is cabable of that thickness, though it still isnt a holster machine. Set up or adjustment is likely your issue. It would be worth getting it a professional tune up.

I misread the size portion. Apologies. However having just measured a recent project of 4 strand, these are the figures I got. Strand width 6/32, finished braid diameter .172" As you can see the strand width is 1/16 wider than yours and the finished diameter is well under 1/4" You might want to do a couple inches of 6 strand braid and measure it to test. I think you might have room for 2 more strands that are narrower than mine and keep it under 1/4" . I am only suggesting this to help keep it simple and reduce the chance of added/dropped strands from coming loose in a finished product. Now I do split my strands to .8mm, if yours are much thicker it may not work.

@paprhangr I have the same machine/motor setup. When I first got the machine I had horrible problems with consistant stitching using 207/23, including splitting the thread and thread breakage. It would stitch fine for a while then start splitting and breaking the thread. Adjusting the top tension did almost nothing no matter how many turns I gave it. Of course first I changed needles and size but that made no difference. This made me think something was wrong with the thread path so I started experimenting. It was originally threaded once through the top post, twice through the 3 hole guide, through the tension disc but wrapped around the locating pin on the tension disc before going through the second tension disc and rest of the machine. A couple belt blanks later I found the path that worked for me. Thread back to front then right to left on the top post. Go through all 3 holes on the 3 hole guide from top to bottom and right to left. Over the top counterclockwise through the first tension disc(making sure it is seated in the bottom of the groove) and on to the second disc and rest of machine. The biggest change was not wrapping around the top of the locating pin in the top tension disc. It now sews great with 138, 207 or a combination on anything I stick under the foot. Only slight adjustments are needed to the top tension screw to center the knot. This may be how the thread path is supposed to be but It wasnt set up this way when I got the machine. The only thing more I would want for this machine is a speed reducer because trying to handwheel, hold the threads and guide the material during start up requires that third arm growing from my chest to be a little longer.

A 206 isnt ideal for sewing holsters but it will sew up to 3/8" What problems are you having? What setup are you using? Servo motor? Speed reducer? Thread and needle sizes?

I have a 206 rb-5. I sew 2 layers of 8oz latigo using 207 thread with no problem except hand wheeling the first 2 stitches. A speed reducer would fix that. I cant speak on the others because I have never sewn on them.

That might be a little hard to do. If the collar is only 4-5 inches long and you figure 1.5-2 inches of flat, then you only have about 1.5 inches for each side of round braid. I am not sure what size lace you are planning on using. 1/8" might let you do a 6 strand flat and go right into a 6 strand round. No dropping strands and that size lace should keep you close to your target diameter for the round braid.

I think you may need to work from the middle out. It is easier to securely bury a strand then it is to add one. You could also start with wider strands, make your flat braid, then cut the strands narrower for the round braid. This would allow you to carry the full plait count to both ends.

That seems simple enough. Thank you.

@ megabit you have some mad skills. Can you explain the difference between a PK and a casa? It has always confused me. Then you start tossing in different types and its WTF?

Your pic didnt make it through.

Thats a nice brown. I also think the contrast will go good together. Looking forward to seeing the completed project.

Actually I did mention it. Although the amounts of baking soda used differ. Somewhere on this site is a very good thread concerning vingroon but my search skills are lacking.

I am actually going to braid the loop of a replaceable cracker whip with it. Not the cracker itself, but the loop which is braided into the thong of roo. I figured I would get better answers to durability and softness here.

I am going to be starting a new project and have only used bonded nylon. I was wondering on the durability to abrasion and softness of poly. Poly would be better for the UV characteristics, but I need a thread durable and soft also. How does poly compare to nylon in these areas?

I had that problem on my 206 which is a side load bobbin. It wasnt snapped in all the way. I have never used a top loader so dont know if thats your issue. Gottaknow or Wiz are sure to know what the problem is. Oh make sure you have a good needle. I know the hook wont pick up the thread if the needle is bent.

My first thought was reduce the SPI. You seem to be getting a lot of tear out on the backside. The holes look pretty good on the front side.

That is exactly what I did to my 206. Works like a charm.

You might have accidentally bent the bobbin tension spring when you but the full bobbin in the case. Try tightening the screw on the spring just a touch and see if that helps

There was a long thread on it but cant seem to find it. so here is a run down. Vinagroon only works on vegtanned leather, it wont work on rawhide. It chemically reacts with the tannins in the leather (or coffee table and floor) and turns it black. Dissolve as much clean steel wool as you can in the vinegar. This may take several days to a week depending on temp. Filter the solution and you have vinagroon. If you want the leather dyed all the way through, dip the leather in the solution. it will start turning black almost immediately. Neutralize the leather by dipping in a solution of baking soda and water. About 1 teaspoon per gallon. Thoroughly rinse the leather in clean water. Air dry. Thats it. Its pretty simple and doesnt dye your hands. The black is a little dull until you finish it then it is a deep black that doesnt rub off and goes all the way through the leather. The darkness is a matter of how much tannin is in the leather. You can increase the tannin level by pretreating the leather with a coffee or tea solution.

Some parts I understand are hard to find but hey if you dont want it I do. PM me if you decide to pass.

Kinda looks like a Landis 1 but I am probably wrong.