Sovran81

Recently the top thread started fraying on my 206. It is more prevalent with thicker threads. I normally use 138 or 207 up top and 138 in the bobbin. I have tried thinner threads and the fray was reduced but still there. I have switched needles and needle sizes. The knots are forming in the center of the material so my tensions are ok. I have checked clearances and timing using the supplied impossible to read manual. All seems to be spot on. When slow hand turning the machine, as the thread slips around the bobbin the thread and machine gets very tight then eases as the thread slips all the way around. When hand wheeled quickly or run the tightness isnt there but then the thread frays. Scouring of the forum leads me to think the hook has a rough spot even though the machine has less than 50 hrs on it. The manual is useless for hook removal. There is some kind of shield that covers the main body of the hook. (It kinda looks like a hook in reverse.) Any tips out there for hook removal so I can buff the hook. I have only had 1 issue where a bunch of thread got wrapped up around the bobbin case and I had to cut it out. Now I cant sew because the frayed thread looks horrible. anything else i might check that could cause this?

Thank you Leatherpownder.

Where do you get the findings for the clasp? Nothing I have found will hold more than a 6 plait with 2mm strands.

No mathematician here. Do the formulas work the same? As a dummy I try to use the easy way out unless extra work nets better results.

Kids will be kids and want that instant gratification. Tell him to take his time. The whip will crack when it is ready to crack for him. Honestly, a stock whip has been the most difficult to learn for me. Signals, snakes and bulls seem to crack readily. My stock has taken a bit of time to become proficient at, let alone master. The whip itself seems to have a nice smooth taper, it will crack when it and your son come to terms.

Well that was hard to follow. No offense Brian I have great respect for you and your skills. I have learned a (probably same but) different formula that hasn't failed me yet. Circumference X 1.5 / number of strands = strand width. Easy peasy. I measure diameter and use an online calculator http://www.onlineconversion.com/circlesolve.htm to give me circumference(pi is for eating not figuring). From there its a simple math calculation. Any three numbers will give you the fourth. The circumference and 1.5 are standard to that job. Choose width or number of strands and you have the 3 you need to define the fourth. As a math calculation it works with any three as long as 1.5 is your constant.

A quick search turned this up. Its not free though. https://www.manualsdrive.com/results.php?lang=en&search=SINGER%2029K15#.U3oExPldVHW

I dont know. Tt was what my local North Carolina shop carries. Like I said its the only experience I have had with bridle and may have been a bad hide.

I have only had 1 side of bridle and really wasn't satisfied with it. It was a substitution for a latigo order which I oked after talking to the shop owner. I thought it would be dyed through which it wasn't. it was also harder and stiffer. I believe from a rolling press operation. It felt like it had more wax then oil in it and what surprised me the most was when folding around a ring, the grain cracked. The only way I could prevent the cracking was to split the 9oz down to 5-6oz before the ring. At the time all my work was done with rivets and chicago screws so splitting required buying more hardware that fit the split thickness. I probably got a bad hide but I found ways to use it and now stick with latigo for strap and belt work. I cant afford $250-300 mistakes on a side. I dont tool and mostly make light harness with the latigo.

Latigo is either a veg tan or dual tan including veg tan. It is impregnated with oils and waxes to make it weather resistant. It softens up faster with use and is unsuitable for tooling because it wont hold an impression (or molding) very well. An excellent material for reins and other outdoor gear. It comes in many cuts, mostly whole sides and bellies. Bellies are unsuitable for straps due to the amount of stretch which is why they are common to find in leather shops. The shop uses the prime portion and doesnt use the belly.

Zach White had rawhide sides last week. Both bleached and unbleached.

Money is magnetic? Mine always seems to be polar opposites. It is always trying to leave my wallet.

Love it.

SilverBear, I hope you have considerable hand strength. Those handles are mighty short. While they have different dies and punches, I doubt you will be able to buy the punches when they chip.

Since your name and interests says "Motorbikes" I am going to guess you wish to sew bags and seats for outdoor use. Polyester is the only choice. it is more UV resistant than nylon is. Hearing tools and personal belongings clatter to the road behind me would really ruin my day. Other than that I cant help with UK suppliers or thread sizing.

I looked at this one. The big advantage I saw was, you were still able to tilt the machine back for cleaning and lube. I am not sure if thats possible on reducers that are moved forward and require the belt slot cut. it also uses 4 to 1 reduction vs 3 to 1 which the common reducer uses IIRC.

OK, but your example is not a good one. Splitters have straight ground blades where razors use a hollow grind. In either case, this is apples to oranges. The heritage blade may be ground to the rear of the blank but it is also 1/2" thick and we think chinese made. The CR blade is 3/8" thick hardened tool steel made in USA. Anyway I layed a straight edge on the ground angle of the CR then measured the intersection at the back of the blade. The CR blade blank would be .6" thick if the factory angle was carried to the back of the blade. The blade is 2" wide. I dont know the math to get the exact answers but I am betting the angle is within a couple degrees if not the same once the math was done to equalize blade dimensions. I doubt either manufacturer would give us the metallurgy data needed to do an apple to apple comparison for edge longevity. The important thing is you have a splitter that does it job and makes you happy. Grats. May it pay for itself many times over.

So its a bit of a mix of experience on knots in general and the ability to see into the future. LOVE IT. One day I hope I can do that. I can finally see a pineapple with multiple interweaves as it forms so all hope is not lost.

Am I seeing things? it looks like the thread is going from right to left through the needle. Might be time for me to get some glasses.

How do you figure out that over 2 and over 3 would work? I mean the body of the knot has to be the same, but is there a rule or calculation that lets you know if it will work or is it trial and error? Great job on it.

Have you tried a vibratory drum? Used a lot for cleaning empty brass. They can clean some very small crevices. Here is a cheap example http://www.harborfreight.com/5-lb-metal-vibrator-tumbler-67617.html

In the interest of learning I am curious why you feel the edge ground all the way to the rear of the blade is important. I understand the actual angle, but really anything past the cutting edge is a moot point to what was cut.

LOL, great idea. Punch and burnish in one easy step. Dont miss your mark though.

After going through several different cheaper ones, I bit the bullet and bought the Osborn No. 155 mainly for both replaceable tubes and solid steel handle. It had one more advantage over the others I didn't realize until I used it. Longer handle which gave more leverage and made punching easier in thick hard leather. I also have a set of hammer punches, but really only use them when the throat on the Osborn is too shallow. At $2-3 a tube(replaced 1 tube in 4 years) I dont even bother trying to sharpen them. If it isnt exactly even on the edge you end up with in incomplete hole

The loops on mine were sewn like purse/bag straps. Sewn in the middle to be round with 2 flat ends for the button holes. They were 3-4 oz thick veg tan. I say veg tan simply because the buttons left indentations on the straps. They slip through loops on the suspenders themselves so as they wear or tear, just the button straps need to be replaced. You might be able to purchase just one from a suspender retailer to use as a pattern but I am guessing they come in 3 packs so all are replaced at the same time.