Palermo

Yes it still will patina

I found that with the osborne skiver on a glass surface works best

Which leather did you use? Looks like economy grade leather and it will almost always do that.

It doesn't actually cut a welt to be used on a shoe but more for trimming the edge after sole is applied.

Pilgram sewing

I think the needle is binding the thread in the shuttle. In the needle down position look and see how it aligns. You might have to move the needle a bit or grind down a flat part on where the screw sits on the needle to tighten it

I bought one of those machines to try it out. I have a lot of modern and vintage machines in my shop. For the small repairs I use that one I have changed zippers and even made a few things on it, It does stitch good but it takes a few try's to get use to the hand crank in the position it is in. If you can't afford a 29k (if it's under $1000 either you got a good deal or something is wrong with it). Then get this one to hold you off. The guy I bought it from on eBay is knowledgable about this machine and will help you out. His email is evrosport@rogers.com

Have you found someone yet? What is total run? And price you are trying to stay around? Are you looking for domestic supplier?

Yes the CB3200 will do the job. But stitching round gusset corners takes a lot of skill. The stirrup plate gives a lot of help. I would recommend practice on scrap pieces. The best (meaning easiest) machine for stitching round gussets in my opinion are shoe patchers

I started by using a penny dime or quarter as a guide and just cut straight lines around it for the outside corners. Doesn't take that many. For larger corners on my attaché cases I use PVC pipe as a guide For inside corners I use a hole punch at corners and straight lines to "connect the dots" so to speak.

Vinyl cement BArge infinity cement

Electrathon is pretty close. You can even use leather soles to make the "heel stack" (size 5 1/2). A special press/nailer attaches them to the boot. When the press is pressed it pushes the nails through. You can also use 3 drywall screws but the professional way is with a heel press $1000+

In my opinion saddle stitching is thee strongest stitch. Hand stitching looks cooler but machine stitching looks cleaner. So it really depends on the end product.

I am a shoe maker / leather craftsmen. Hank the dog said it best. I would like to reinforce what he said about leather soles. Even industrial lock stitchers like the Juki or Juki clones can not sew the welt to leather. You need an outsole stitcher that uses a curved awl and hook. It even carves a path so the stitching lays flush with sole or better ones under surface of leather. If you have any question I'll walk you through it. But your first step is a last. Shoe making is a lot harder than leather craft. Also because there is an architecture to it.

Use geometry.. Straight lines make a perfect circle. This is my method Straight cuts

I was going to say same thing as Steve

I would wet form both sides then stitch a spine in.

@wizcrafts You know a lot. I hope to be as knowledgable as you with machines. In your opinion will I be better off with a small machine? I don't mind batch sewing either. Setting up the machine for thick or thin leather. Right now on the holsters I get commissioned to do, i sew on my dads landis 12. Great for outside stitching as it even cuts a stitch path. But I want to start using a machine like the cowboy to do them. I know there's no one machine for everything but I can only afford one machine.

@andrew Thank you for your helpful reply. Right now I'm pretty sold on the Cowboy 4500 yes Chinese made. I have cylinder machines now (hand powered/ treadle) and the problem I run into sometimes is length of the cylinder. (Luggage and boot repairs) I've been told that the cowboy 4500 will sew chap leather which is 3-4 oz if I'm not mistaken. I know how to adjust my machines and time them as I've thrown them off before. So I don't mind dialing them in if I have to.. But they have to sew good @hilbilly Tim Thanks for the advise I'll contact them all soon.

Hello all, I've been following this forum for sometime and saw wizcrafts post on machines. He is very very knowledgeable when it comes to sewing but only covers the Chinese made machines from what I've read. So my question is. What is the best machine for me? I make leather accessories, wallets, luxury high end leather handbags, holsters when commissioned. I mainly use 2-3 or 3-4oz cowhide or soft italian calfskin. Currently I hand stitch or use a vintage hand powered adler or singer. I am looking for a cylinder machine. That can stitch with thick thread. The thicker the better. I've been mainly looking at the Juki 246 and 1341. I like the Juki 441 for the length of the cylinder but I think it's too much machine than what I need. Thanks for helping me out! Palermo