Colt W Knight

Barry king Bob beard Clay miller I like craft tool pro stuff too

Thanks

I've been looking at carriage bolts, but while they are convenient, they didn't solve my weight problem. I'll figure something out eventually that's easier than casting lead slugs Delrin is a type of acetal resin

A couple of folks asked me to make them some mauls

Went over to my brothers house to cast some lead slugs for weights. He makes bass fishing lures, so he has all the cool lead foundry stuff. Now I am able to make these 2" mauls weight 12-20 ounces pretty easily

Slick, I can't do that well.

Had some scrap round stock left over that was too short for a full size maul

I had a small left over piece of plastic rod, so I thought I would make a small maul from some figured maple and mesquite I had laying around

My hair tool works great to make wood grain, but I wish I had the swivel for the critters

Smart idea, I will probably steal it.

Thanks Eddie Thank you Appreciate that Thanks Stu

I must have gotten lucky, because my Crafttool double sided hair tool is actually made really well, and the machining on the tip are crisp and make nice impressions. However, when I am doing animals, I find myself wishing I had a hair blade on a swivel knife to make following contour and such easier.

Very nice. I have started using pig for the lining on my padfolios because I love the texture and the thinness makes it easy to work with.

There is some blood, I slipped with the block plane beveling the edges and took off the top of my knuckle.

Thanks Angie.

I really like them. I prefer larger thread on saddle stuff.

Thanks Billy

Just finished up some mauls Below is a link for how I made them.

Originally, I planned on using this brass round stock I have had since I was a teenager to make the retaining nut for the mauls. I was going to cut it thicker to make a heavy nut to have a heavier maul. Well, this isn't regular old soft brass. Its pretty tough stuff, and might actually be some kind of bronze. Anyway, I can't cut it straight with a hack saw or my portaband, I have tried. I cut the first nut from this, and it took me over an hour to cut it, flatten it on my belt sander, drill, tap and clean up. I decided that was too much work I racked my brain trying to come up with something I could buy off the shelf that would 1. I could thread 2. would have weight 3. would look relatively nice. I couldn't think of anything, I was becoming frustrated, then I thought to myself, just buy a damn hole saw. Hole saws are measured by OD, and aren't super accurate, The ID comes out to about 1-9/16", and I can't find a forstner bit that size without buying an entire kit. Anyone know where I can buy just the 1-9/16" Ream it out for the tap On material like this that is thin, you can't just hand tap it, It will come out crooked and wont lay on the maul flat. So I hand guide it with the drill press Buff it up pretty Fit it all together I haven't decided if I am going to continue to use a retaining nut, or just get some Stainless steel and solder the rod and cap together to make a bolt. Polish it up nice, and then I would have a nice maul with no visible joins or nuts or anything.

Mixed up some dye, and gave them a little color. Sprayed some lacquer as well. Ill check in on it in the morning.

Time to trim up that handle

So far, I like working with the Nylon better than the plastics. The plastics get hot and melt while drilling and turning if you aren't very careful. A non-lazy man would take the time to change the belts on all his machines to their slowest RPMs and work very slowly to prevent this, but what do I look like? A guy who isn't lazy? The nylon is pretty cool on the lathe, when you have your tool really sharp, and you move with the right pressure and speed, the extra material come off in one single piece/tail. That also make it get stuck around the chuck. I tried to setup my dust collector to catch it and suck it up, but it just can't keep up with the rpms of the lathe.

Drilling out the handle to take the threaded SS rod Tapping the hole Installing the rod, and trimming it down to make it more wieldy whilst working on it

Cutting out the rod isn't as easy as sliding it over the table saw, I had to make a jig to hold the round stock at 90 degrees and clamp it tight so it doesn't move. I forgot to take a picture of how I find the centers on this nylon rod. I drilled a 2" hole in a piece of scrap walnut with a 2" forstner bit, Then I clamped the wood to the drill press table. Now the center of the hole and the drill chuck are cowitnessed. I can put the rod in the hole, and change the bit to whatever size I need to drill centered holes. Without a metal lathe or nice wood lathe, this is about the most accurate way I can do this. I cut the recesses for the handle and brass retainer using forstner bits I don't really like cutting these angled heads on my lathe because the plastic/nylon curls wrap around my lathe chucks. I am afraid some of those curls are going to over heat and burn up the bearings on my live center, so I stop frequently to clean off the curls I drill the center hole using a 27/64" bit, then ream it out with a 1/2" bit. The tails like to get hot and mar the hole. Doing it in two stages leaves a nice clean hole of the right diameter Mock up - The heads gets sanded with coarse sand paper so it doesn't glance off the stamps

I thought I would show some of my process. First, I cut the wood out on the table saw Then take it over to the lathe I am going to add some decorative rings to this one Using epoxy