Colt W Knight

Thanks yall.

Even cheap 1$ a bottle stuff available at walmart will work on leather. Its just more time consuming and requires some extra steps. For example, I used cheaper/craftsstore brand acrylics for a while, and when I used them I would have thin it with water and apply lots of thin coats to get adhesion and solid colors. Angelus on the other hand, I can use straight from the bottle, apply 1-2 coats and be done. The bottles have brushes built into the cap, and colors cover better, adhere nicely, and look more vibrant, IMHO. Took me a lot more work to get the results I wanted from craft store acrylic. Thats why I prefer Angelus. A bottle goes a long way in the leather craft world, so the cost isn't a big issue to me. I also really like using Angelus in my airbrush. I get great coverage with thin airbrush coats. I use it to recolor boots, leather hats, leather jackets, etc. and the color doesn't crack or flake off. Just like painting anything, THIN coats is the way to go.

^ this

I believe Seiko makes Consew, so they are probably the exact same machine, but less than half the price. I would grab that up if you had the opportunity. The Seiko may need a new pulley or speed reducer though. Looks like it is setup for cloth, not leather. That big motor pulley and little handwheel will suffer in the torque department punching through leather. Not a big deal, just something to keep in mind. I have a Consew 206RB and it is a bad cat. Love that machine.

I would skip the patcher ( The Singer 29) it would be great for repairing shoes or garments or sewing on patches. For construction of an entire project? Not so much, IMO. That Juki 246 on the other hand is a nice machine, but it will have a small bobbin. A Juki 341 or Pfaff 345 or Consew 227r would be the equivalent but with bigger bobbins. For $1700, I would hold for a machine that doesn't have a tiny bobbin.

A consew 227R would be another machine to keep an eye out for.

Thanks Bob, that bobbin screw had backed out to the point it had no tension at all. I don't know if I am threading it right or not, but she seems to be running like a well oiled machine right. I would like to know the proper path for winding the bobbin thread. The way I am doing it now just doesn't feel right. Really neat machine though. It feeds material better than my old Singer 66, and it has all those cool knobs to change needle position, stitch length, and zig zag stitching. Also which I knew how the buttonhole function worked.

+1

The pulleys are a good idea because they add torque. Sometimes the servo doesn't have enough get up and go to start and run at low speeds with the stock pulleys.

I have the FS-550 from Toledo Industrial, and it has a dial on the motor to set max speed. The dial isn't super precise, you have to play with it a bit to get the sweet spot.

Ive got the bobbin winder figured out. The plastic tire got dry rotted and broke off into a bunch of pieces. I put a Singer tire on it. and now I got it to sew But I am not real sure how to thread it though. It has few thingymabobs on it that were on my old Singers or industrial machine. Ive got the tension as light as it will go, and its still pulling the bobbin knot to the top.

That would be great if you want to share some links. I found some online manuals for the 250B, but they were different than the 250b-3

Thanks Whiz, that's kinda what I thought, but want sure. Any idea how to wind the bobbin? I can't get the built in bobbin winder to work. I don't know if it's broke or I'm doing it wrong. Bob Kovar told me the parts are proprietary and unavailable. I was really hoping to get this rocking because it does a really nice job feeding and switching from straight to zigzag zag.

Anyone have any information they care to share about this Nelco machine? Nelco N-250-B-3 A friend gave it to me, and I thought I would keep it around for cloth. I have no idea how to thread it, where to find a manual or where to find the missing cover plate. I don't know how to wind the bobbin either.

I would also add that the Consew 227R would be a great machine. It is the cylinder arm equivalent of the 206. I have a 206, and it has been a great machine, but I can tell you that I wish I had a cylinder arm. I have screwed up several pieces trying manipulate corners and seems around on the flatbed that would have been a walk in the park on a cylinder arm.

Haven't used the dye yet, but I have about 30 different colors in the Angelus Leather paint that I love using. Not going back to a lesser product. I only use Fiebings and Angelus products now

I have a Consew 206, and I have fussed and fussed, a D I can't get it to run #207 thread, so I stick with #138.

I'll say it, Consew 227 I have a Consew 206( the flat bed version) and when it's set correctly top and bottom stitches looking great on garment leather and heavy textiles. On vegtan, the back isn't as pretty. I believe you need a great big and expensive needle and awl machine for that.

I would wipe the purse down with Fiebings deglazer, then clean with some saddle soap and let it dry. Then I would airbrush the bag the color I wanted using Angelus Acrylic leather paint. That is how I would do it.

After using some very expensive diamond stones (dmt diasharp) I can attest to the fact that they stay flat. The disadvantage is the grit will wear off over time if you use them enough. I have a few diamond stones with dead spots. I also have a few Norton stones that are decades old, and yes, they are not flat anymore. However, you can still use them and get a scary sharp edge.

I think it would be hard to beat the Norton stone I posted a link for earlier in the thread.

Let it rest right on the wood.

Looks like a marker stone or a surface plate that got left in the weather. Helluva nice score for 20$. That is the size I use, and it works great.

I don't get it. It's alright for you to "think out loud" on the forum, but not CaptQuirk?

I have two HF woodworking benches http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=wood+working+bench I am not a fan of HF, but those benches are actually very nice. I use them for tooling, cutting, dying, and general assembly work on leather.