Colt W Knight

Cant argue with that price. You will learn a lot using that set, and as you get better, You can upgrade to nicer tools. Yeah, I would jump on that if you are learning.

Yeah, its about 1/2" wide, and when I was looking it up, looks like they come in 14 and 24 TPI blades. Im not sure which one I have. Back when I use to buy these blades, I don't remember there being any options. You just bought Milwaukee portaband blades or generic.

That Milwaukee portaband is using a 24 TPI milwaukee brand blade. The generic and Lennox blades SUCK, they break if you breathe on them wrong. Those milwaukee blades will last until you get them in such a bind you have to break it to get it unstuck. I've got an 8" buffer I used, but I didn't take any pics. Back when I was working on draglines and shovels, we mostly used it to cut pipe for hand rails and some thick electrical conduit. It is a tremendous time saver vs. using a torch. I had the idea to hold it upright in a vice and use it like a wood working bandsaw. You can't make tight turns, and you have to get creative with the narrow throat, but its a helluva better than using a cutoff wheel on a grinder.

I cleaned it up some more today She is sharp

Thanks Wiz, The bottom two links are not LR points though. I have some #23 LR needles, but the hole kinda kills the slanted stitch effect on #138 thread. My machine won't sew 207.

Just ordered a bunch of needles and stuff from Toledo, but Bob didnt have any size 22 135x16LR needles. I cant seem to find this size anywhere except one online store, but they only sell in packs of 100. Any suggestions?

Id love to try one of those new Adlers, the promo videos look amazing

I upload my pics to photobucket, that way I dont have to resize anything. When I want to share on a forum, I can just copy and paste the link into the text. That way I can space them, axd gext between pictures however I see fit. Plus the photos are larger and expandable that way.

Then there is a bunch of hard work rasping, filing and sanding Gave the handle a good dose of Teak oil That is all I have for now. The handle will get finished over the next few days, and Ill hone the edge up nice( it is sharp now, but it isn't straight razor sharp yet), and I need to decide if I want to polish out the blade, cold blue it, or leave it well enough alone. I did a little more honing this morning, and I think the blade is definitely harder than mild steel. It skate around on the whetstone and it "zings" whenever you draw it against something. Man I love that sound.

A little bit of edge work before I put on the handle. I've got some Mahogany laying around from my guitar building days

I hate this part - Sanded up through 220. I couldn't get all the tooling marks out, they were pretty deep. This is the reason I gave up knife making a long time ago. The sanding and polishing really, really suck. I do not enjoy this process. I get no zen like feelings of relaxation. It just makes my hand tremors worse and my fingers hurt. Looking at round knives online, they typically have a handle with some sort of palm swell. I don't know if you can heat treat a circular saw blade, but I did it anyway

I keep seeing folks on the forum with those handy round knives, and I thought about getting one for myself. * I don't know anything about round knives, their use, and I know very little about knife making. Laid out the rough shape using some basic tools and the lid to an animal cracker jar on an old table saw blade I kept for some reason. My milwaukee portable band saw makes quick work or cutting out the rough shape So close to getting it nice and circular...ughhh The little belt sander will fix that And his big brother will help with the edge bevel. and back to the little belt sander to make that bevel pretty I wanted to bring the bevel back 3/8 - 1/2" but the awkward shape just wont fit into any of my tools to draw that bevel back any further

Fiebings pro oil dye is just better quality alcohol based dye, its not actually oil based. In my experience, I get better coverage with their pro oil dye, and it doesn't rub off near as bad as the USMC Black dye. I don't think you would get good results mixing it with neatsfoot oil.

Are you talking about Fiebings Pro Oil dye? Because that is alcohol based too, not sure why they chose to call it oil dye. I have used both, and I prefer the oil dye. Better coverage and doesn't rub off near as bad. Looking at the Fiebings website, they have updated some of their pictures with bottles that just say Pro Dye, so I am guessing they are getting away with calling it oil dye. Other types of oil based dye, like those used in some wood working applications wouldn't be good for leather because they contain petroleum by products.

Im sure most maul makers use the weight of or weights built into the top disc/head to bring them up to exact weights.

JLS, you make a lot of holsters, how often do you sew something thicker than 1/2" ? I have a Consew 206 RB-1, and while it is a great machine, it is not a holster machine. Thread isn't big enough, and the flatbed hinders its usefulness getting around all those 3-d holster shapes. Plus, it can't sew the welt on a cowboy holster ( i have tried and tried with no success). Does a great job on belts, leather folders, and purses though.

I am not a Glock fan, but my dad bought my dad this little pistol for Easter. I put the first magazine through it, and shot about a2-3" group at 10 yards. I couldn't believe. I then took aim at an electric fence post insulator about 25 yards away, and blew it right off the post. My next firearm purchase will be a Glock 43.

Strong solvents like acetone can melt plastics, so you may want to test it in a small area first. Being as this is a glue pot, it should handle it, but I have seen stranger things happen.

I bet you will spend A LOT more than 60$ making your own set.

I think most of us have been here before, and tried those old Singer home machines. They just don't work for sewing vegtan leather reliably. I know I watched a bunch of youtube videos and internet stuff that said they would work if they were setup right. So I went out and bought one, upgraded everything, and it would sew garment weight leather and heavy canvas/cloth reliably, but never would sew two pieces of vegtan together reliably. It could do short runs, but it would never do any real projects. It would either loose control of the feed and wouldn't stitch the SPI consistently, fray thread, or drop stitches. Plus, they will not sew with larger thread. There are plenty of old Singers out there that are capable of sewing leather, but they are not cheap like the old home machines.

What do you want to sew? To be brutally honest, there really isn't a such thing as a beginner leather sewing machine. They are typically big and expensive.

Damn nice.

If you are talking about padfolios, I glue in a leather liner with contact cement. I glue up both sides, let them get tacky, press it together, then roll piece( front and back really well) with a roller applying plenty of pressure. Then you need to let it dry really well before bending the padfolio in half. In the past, I got wrinkles when I tried to bend it before it cured well or I didn't use a roller. On projects, like purses, where I glue fabric to cloth, I generally spray both fabric and leather with 3M77 spray glue, stick the pieces together immediately, then iron it really well with the steam on. Since I started ironing my projects that I use spray glue on, I haven't had any delaminations.

On big pieces, I cut my liner a few inches bigger because laying a large piece down flat is tough. Plus, thin stuff will stretch on you too.

I use 3m77 or super 90 when I glue cloth to leather. I found if I spray both sides, stick it together, and then iron it, the glue really sticks well. The real problem comes with the edges. Cotton cloth likes to fray/string off. I started using nylon or synthetic cloth to line purses so I can use a lighter to singe the edge and prevent frays.