dakotawolf

That's exactly what I need, but it's about 950 too many of them.

I've converted two hole to three hole, but would MUCH prefer to be able to buy them (in small quantities).

That looks real nice! I don't think you'd have to be elderly for that to be your last holster; looks built to last for years. What keeps the band on (the one with the star)? Does the hammer strap keep it from sliding down? Did you use a full length welt? My very next project is a full western rig for a 686. I think I'm going to be referring to your pics for general guidance on how to make the mainsteam stitch line flow - because yours does it very well.

I'm REALLY starting to like making lined holsters. The rigidity is unmatched compared to unlined holsters of the same thickness. This holster is made from two layers of 4-5oz Hermann Oak glued flesh side to flesh side. I use the "hidden" belt slots mostly because the full thickness of the holster would be a bit cumbersome to have under the belt. I think it looks more refined too. I used the edge finishing technique that John Bianchi shows in his holster making video (just got it for my birthday). The mag pouch is unlined. Any thoughts and criticism are welcome.

Looks nice and clean. For aesthetic appeal maybe try to round the stitch lines around the trigger guard a little. I use a dime to find the right radius in that area. It probably doesn't affect the function, but I think it pleases the eye a little more to have a radius rather than a right angle. Just my two cents; it's still a solid holster.

I like it! The stitch line is spot on. I like the subtle style you built into the reinforcement piece.

Looks PERFECT to me. Is that Wickett & Craig leather?

I'm looking for the three dvd set "The Art and secret of western holster making" by John Bianchi.

Looks really good! Your second holster, but I assume you're not new to leather work?

I hand stitched a belt once - just once. I watched two movies in a single sitting while doing it. The belt was for me; I don't think I could could hand sew belts to sell because it's too time consuming. As for working with long thread on a belt, start at the tip (billet end) and work towards the buckle. When one half of the belt is sewn, start at the tip again using the same hole you started with before, and then sew the other side towards the buckle. At first I though I'd have to sew the entire belt with one length of thread that started at the buckle end and ended at the buckle end (or splice in thread as needed). Luckily my local leather shop guy gave me this advice. I knew it was good advice because I had that "why didn't I think of that feeling". Doing half the belt at a time made it quite a bit easier, and it looks just as good.

Very stunning! I agree with what everyone has said so far.

This was a quick little project for a relative. It was also the first holster I've made on my new Cobra class 4 (thus the somewhat funky stitching). It was a fun little project and actually turned out kinda neat. The color is neatsfoot oil that has been set outside for a few days. It's sealed with 50/50 mop n glow/ water.

I like it; it shoots like a glock. It's what I carry in summer since it's easier to conceal. The magazines empty faster than my other Glocks. Part of me wishes I'd have just bought the Glock 26. Maybe I still will :-)

Yes, the gun is popular. I think it would be worth buying a dummy gun. I bought the actual pistol, so I'm not qualified to advise on the best price for this blue gun.

+1 on the food dehydrator. It is capable of low heat (95-165 F) and has a gentle fan. Almost like it was made to gently dry stuff ;-)

Nice clean work. Looks great!

Looks very good to me. So this is the Tiger thread? Nice hand stitching.

Looks good! I really like how you sandwiched the thumb break stiffener between the leather. Having the back of the snap (the one that would normally rub up against the side of the slide when snapped shut) covered by leather is a nice touch.

I'm seriously looking at buying the same machine. I've been searching this forum and the internet for info. Your question asks the same things I'd like to know. Just wanted to let you know you're not the only person wondering, and I think there are more people wondering. Thanks for asking it.

Looks fantastic! I've been looking for finish washers and especially the black Allen screws. Would you mind sharing the name of your source?

Really like the color! Looks like it'll ride nice too.

I make holsters, but in this case I'm making a portable radio holder for law enforcement. I'm looking at putting a pull the dot snap on the strap (the strap is 1/4" shock cord fed through a leather tab for the snap to attach to). I figure that way the radio is less likely to become unsecured when things get strenuous. I suppose if pull the dot snaps are only capable of fastening securely in 5/6 oz of leather (which is a guess on my part), I'll have to skive the tab down, and then use a post from a line 24 snap on the body of the radio holster, which will be 8/9 oz leather. Does that sound workable? I'm thinking I might just have to order some pull the dots and see how think of leather they can fasten onto.

So with just strictly pull the dot parts, how thick of a piece of leather will the posts accommodate? I see the longer of the two offered has posts just over 1/4".

I know this is old, but where can one buy pull the dot snaps with the longer posts? I've been scouring the internet for an hour - that's how I found this old thread.

I'd say probably, if you're going to burnish the inside of the hole. Even if you're not burnishing you might be able to squeeze a 1/4" thick belt through. If you're making them for other people (who have 1/4" thick belts), they might not enjoy the extra friction and effort it *might* take to feed the belt through. I've never used the Springfield punch, so this is my best guess. If you try it, please report back the results.