Regis

On a 618 or 1541 type machine w/servo, is the machine belt better on the small or middle pulley of speed reducer (alias "slow-um-down' wheel" for our UK friends) ? Not for speed reduuction sake but for torque on this size machine. Is the small one too much or just right torque? Thanks, Regis

Slow-um-down wheel.........I love it! what a great name. Regis

I have made "one" IWB/OWB left or right handed holster using extra-long belt loops with extra fold that snaps on in each configuration. I say "one" because it is so bulky that it doesn't sell at shows. And, when I explain what it is, I get a "huh, that's cool" but I havn't found that in-decisive ambidextrous P226 user yet [lol]. So, I guess you could take this configurations, add more snaps to accomodate thumb break or side shield. You could be making him a "collectable" or "conversation piece" like I have. Let me know if you actually want pictures and I'll take some and send. Regis

That is great idea......market will definately decide.......that's why, after a few shows I still have few nice OWB (P226 & 1911's) that only fit one inch belts [lol]. Nobody wants them. Thanks, regis

I'm ready to cut and make a number of pocket holsters for a show and, I seem to argue with myself (does anyone else do that) about closing the bottom. On one hand, it makes for slightly more pronounced bottom and anything left in pocket can enter barrel. On the other hand it makes holster longer and things can still end up in bottom of holster to perhhaps enter barrel. What is generally considered best? And, I'd put safety 1st, un-noticable 2nd, and looks last. I'd appreciate you views. Thanks, Regis

Brad welcome to the greatest place to learn (because we have the most helpful people). Luke hit it right on the head. Only think I could add is to buy some scrap pieces similar to what you are using on you first projects so you can practice some with the toos you buy. And, I'm from near you in Irwin. Hadn't lived in PA for many many years though. Regis

Yep, took most of a week off & on and I had to keep it in black plastic bag at night so we could sleep [lol]. Was fun to make and it was the first time I ever had a use for some of those metalics that I bought on sale from Siegels. What you can't make out in picture is the bright red thread. Thanks, Regis

Friend our ous is in Red Hats and asked me to make her a leather Red Hat purse. Red & purple are their colors so, here is what I came up with. Red & purple metalic 2 oz outside, Black pig liner, standard purse snap (inside), cell phone pocket on side toward body, and 11/12oz bottom insert to make sure it can stand up. Here's front and back from kind-of side views and how do you like the 2-tone strap. Regis

Case your leather (properly wet) then stamp. I let mine dry completely before dying, antiquing, or finishing. Regis

Very nice. Good clean design.

Very nice clean look. Well done.

Barra, That make perfect sense, especially with the drawing. I've probably seen that on a thousand items without relating to discussions here. Yep found all the seam types interesting and wish I could do some of them on 4/5 oz leather. I'll probably never write or use sewing spec's like that but found it interesting never-the-less. Thanks, Regis

Very nice & Clean design. Thanks for sharing. Regis

Art, Now that's a lot to digest and, I don't know how much control we have over stitch types. I liked the "usage" table at the end, interesting. Now, I just need to find the "one" stitch that my machine does. Thanks for all the info and I can see the relevance to spec writing. Regis

In recent threads, I've seen some sewing terminology that I don't know or am unsure of. Examples : bar tack, box or gate stich pattern, and another one or two that I can't locate at the moment. I can guess some of these but, that is it, a guess. Would someone enlighten me (and probably some others) by showing some examples and explainations? Closeups would be wonderful. I did some googles and mostly ended up with equipment or crocheting info. Knowing what these are/mean would help greatly in understanding some of the machine sewing dialog. And, would allow some of us to frame proper questions. Thanks a lot, Regis

hummm....you're right because it would have to slide to enable seatbelt to connect and release.... perhaps the rubberize peices that keep thing from sliding around on table inside the belt loops against the belt. The other thing is how much bounce would there be....I guess it would depend on weight of gun. Sure would not want it to knock out the driver on a bumpy road. Thinking about this, more, in my car, it would be better to put a 2 or 3 screw-in snaps in the post (like boat tops connect to windshield). Then the other side of snaps in the holster. I'll have to ask him these before building the holster. I did plan on making the color somewhat match the car interior so as to not be tooo obvious. Thanks for kicking this around. Regis

Got an unusual special order today at gunshow. Guy wants holster for his P226 to fit on (attach to) his seatbelt (at post on drivers side). Sooo, basically the strap will go top to bottom with slight angle in holster and be snap on. Anyone ever done one of these? Regis

This part says a LOT. And, like Steve said, all the dealers sell what you need. My suggestion is go for support, someone that will walk you through all the initial setup, hang-up, threading, oiling, use of accessories, etc. After a year, you probably won't need that level of support for the ame machine BUT, in the beginning you will. What you are sewing as well as thickness & thread size have everything to do with what machine. A cylinder machine will do them gussets easier than a flatbed. A flatbed Will do the decorative stitching MUCH better than a cylinder machine. Cylinder machines typically will sew larger thread (e.g. 348) and thicker leather (e.g. 4 layers of 6/7 oz). I can sew much straighter on a flatbed than cylinder machine. If you don't have a neighborhood industrial machine dealer, be sure to include Steve in your search. From personal experience, there is no better support for a 1st machine buyer(although I've heard from others that there is one, or maybe 2 equals but, not better). Best of luch in your search. Regis

Welcome to the board. Sorry help was not fast enough this time. If you've read the board very much, you'll see a wide variety of response times. When people are in a bad spot, sometimes I've seen them say something like urgent or ememrgency in their subject. Also, you can pop into the Chat room and ask someone if anyone is there at that time. Then again, some people just reply to their own post with"BUMP" rather than chastising everyong for not helping them quickly enough.

Sure is looking good and speed for me is very close to what it was before. IE8 HS-DSL & both Vista and XP I did find that when I search and have to use back arrow, I must refresh to get search list back. Regis

Search problem: If I search and get a list of posts. Then select/view one of the posts in the list, I can not go back to list. I have to do the search all over again. IE8

Paul, As an admirer of your work and teaching, welcome. Regis

I've done a little experimenting but, want to know what others are doing for color & finish on other-than-cow leather. The veg tanned goat I have seems to dye just like cow. I've tried resolene and super shene and they seem ok. On pigskin the dyes work but finishes aren't same. I can not tell the resolene from super shene and "maybe" they are rubbing off?? For croc & ostrich, I've not dyed. On croc I use Leather Balm with Atom Wax for finish. Resolene or nothing on ostrich trims. Any tips on these "other" hides are appreciated. Regis

I'm on IE-8 and everything looks fine. Hadn't crashed from LW. Like this morning's colors! Regis

Welcome maddhatter. Glad your here and looking forward to seeing some of your work. There are some GREAT leaf carvers here to share with.