Regis

A whole lot of great advice that you provided there Bruce. Most of what you say applies in almost any chose career or venture....even when you are employed by someone or some company. It all begins with learning, then doing the absolute best work possible that YOU can produce. Regis

Tom, When you use cardboard, do you still apply oil and then rouge? Do you periodically apply more rouge or just pull it off and start over? I'm currently using hard leather strip and don't have problem "at this time" but, may be due to the fact that I don't appy pressure (about the weight of blade) and strop many many times. For cardboard,,,is filefolder or similar suitable? I think they are harder finish than business card. Thanks, Regis

Hide Crafters have had a lot of their video tapes on sale for $5.00. I've bought a number of them and have been learning things that I just can't get from a book. The one I just watched was Rolled Edges using French knife. It is just great and I'll use various of his techniques on other projects and heavier leather. Carving Roses also showed me more about properly casing, tracing, and carving. Just wanted to pass it on in case some want to take advantage of the five buck sale. Regis

Thanks Clay, These are a bit tooo advanced for me at this time but, I will take you up on that in the future. Regis

Those are just wonderful. Do the Rob Barr disigns come with list of the tools? Or are they just designs and you figure out how to get the right texturing? Regis

I like the chat idea a lot for both quick questions and tutorials. I don't know how you would handle the quick questions unless there was planned times when 'someone' knowledgable would be in a chat room. Sure is an excellent idea though. Regis

Thanks for the link/picture Alex. My daughter has one of those for travel because it lays flat in her suit case. I think I'll get some snaps and make another one like it. The one I'm working on now will be rigid and have stitched corners. It's mostly a simple carving and forming project for me. I used the plastic bag to keep it for a day but was concerned when I opened it because the leather was pretty 'mushy'. When I tooled along the edges that I had cut, the water would slightly oooz up. Obviously I got it toooo wet. I left it out last night and now it is nice and dry BUT, the tooling I did is now very shallow. Can I start over and case it and tool over the same area? Or, will that fail or simply cause new problems? I do appreciate the help. Regis

Clay, That is exactly what I needed to know. The project is a leather tray to go on my nightstand for keys, glasses, etc. After carving and stamping, I plan on raising the sides 1.5 inches on each side. Haven't exactly figured how to angel the sides up 30 degrees or so and connect the corners. Thanks again for the help. Regis

Being new at this, I'm pretty slow. I have a simple but rather large pattern that will take me more than one sitting to transfer to the leather. Then it will probably take me 2 or 3 evenings to cut. Once I case the leather the 1st time, do I keep it damp for days until all cutting & stamping is done? Or, can I put on the side and get back to it a day or more later and case again? Thanks, Regis

Bienvenue et merci

I just ordered 6 video tapes from Hidecrafters.com. They are closing out their video tapes and 'apparently' going all DVD. There are a lot of George Hurst as well as some others. These include many that will help me such as INTRO TO SCENERY CARVING, DYEING & FINISHING, CARVING ROSES , etc. This is an unbeleivable price. I expect other companies will do the same but, these are on sale now. Hidecrafter

Thanks all for the info and tips. I know now that latigo was wrong and that is why I started this question. I think the safest now for me is to pick project and talk on phone to a large, reputable dealer like Art mentioned. I sure like the chart that Johanna posted. Continuing to learn, regis

Bruce, Your business advisor made sense. For 10 (or so) years I made and showed/sold custom gold and silver jewelry in a very large art gallery. I use 14K and up gold and sterling or fine silver as well as diamonds and other precious stones. There were six jewelers in the gallery. 4 of them strung beads and put plated fitting on the ends. My prices ran from $75 to around $800 and were priced based on material and respectable hourly wage. In the time it took me to design & fabricate a nice pendant, the bead people could make 10-20 items with only pennies in material. I did not quit my day job and, I also did not compromise my pricing just to move product (or keep up with the beads). One of the 2D artist asked me if I knew the difference between a professional and amature artist. An amature artist has a job to support their art work. A professional artist has a spouse that has a job to support their art work. At the time, it was kind of funny. But, if it (leatherwork or goldsmithing) is a hobby, then, one should also get the joy of giving away the items as gifts. If it is a business, small or large whether starting or established, it should be run as a business. If you make fine quality then as part of sales, you need to be able to show the details and why it is worth the stated price to own it. Take pride in the quality or take steps to raise the quality until you are proud enough to show-off the work. Enough pontificating from me. Regis

Well, that was quick. Thanks. I guess it is only right that I get busy, take some appropriate pictures and start (some time you get what ya ask for) ! Thanks again, Regis

Not being near other leather workers or classes sometimes presents difficulties. I've begun to wish I had access to someone to look over a peice/project and offer ways to correct various points that need/should be improved. I know I can post photo's of one of my projects and ask questions like: is stitching ok or asking how to improve curve, etc. But, from design to details it would be nice to get constructive critique of an item. If a forum was set up to do exactly that, then, no one would feel that are brutalizing someone else's work. What are you thoughts? Thanks, Regis

Sometimes the simple is hard to see. This is definately one that I will use. Need all the crutches I can get....for now. Regis

Bruce, I do appreciate you taking the leap. I did kind of toss out a "teach mre all about leather" question. You were clear to me. I asked these because I bought some leather locally and what they told me just wasn't matchin' up with what I've been reading. For example one peice was pretty dark brown but, a color that was very good for the purse I was trying to make. The told me it was latigo and ohhhh about 4-5 oz. If I bought the whole peice (about 22 ft) I could tool it just fine and dye darker if needed. Well, I bought enough and made the small purse for my daughter. I tried to stamp a few simple leaves design and it really doesn't show that well. I tried to carve on some scrap and it is nothing like other sample pieces I have from a small kit. I also have some lamb that is dyed and I can easily sew on home machine. All-in-all, I need to know a little more before simply taking word of sales folk. They are nice people but, are primerily in the leather item repair business. Here is picture of purse (1st project that is actually finished). You can see how poor the stamping looks. 1st Project - purse Thank you, Regis

I have some basic questions that I've put togather in one post. Hopefully there are pretty clear answers (for my simple novice mind). 1- I would like to buy large leather peices (side or?) to use for various items and not sure what to ask for or select. For example I would like a relatively soft leather suitable for home sewing machine but, firm enough for decorative carving and stamping. Usage would be purses, bags for various items, and belts. 2- I have a number of peices of leather and really don't know what weight they are. I've read the charts (here and elsewhere) but, don't quite get it. How do I measure to know what oz leather I have in my hand? Place in micrometer and flatten flesh side? Place purpendicular to ruler (squeeze or not)? I don't need a lot of precision but I would like to be able to hold peice in my hand and be able to order apprximately same thing (online). 3- If I buy a leather that is dyed (a medium brown for example) because I'll mostly use that color, can I still dye it (black or dark brown) for certain peices that I cut from it? Or, does original dye cause other problems and I should "always" start with un-dyed if I'm going to do any coloring at all? 4- Besides weight, I see leather listed in sides, halfs, bellies, etc. Is shape the major difference? Or, are there choices that should be used "only for" (or not) for specific pourpose? 5- What is lightest weight that can be reasonably carved or stamped and see good detail? I sure appreciate this forum and have been absolutely amazed and encouraged by some of the talent exhibited here. Thank you, Regis

It sounds like none of you use punches to make holes for sewing. I saw that the fancy hand punch with rotary sizes (that I bought) made all too big holes. Therefore, I bought a single hand "squeze" punch that is size zero (I believe). I am a bit concerned about how to keep it sharp though. Part of the problem with learning online is not knowing what actually looks right. I thought that if there was no holes visable, then it was done by sewing machine. I thought awls were for places you could not reach with punch. This will make my next project look somewhat better (now that I'm beginning to learn what "better" is). I do not want kit look. Good or bad, it is my own from design to final use (even if some are hid in closet). Regis

I've made a a small pouch/purse that has front piece overlaping back. I'm trying to glue the skived edge but, can't seem to apply glue straight and even. I've done some practice peices and have very poor results (strong but, messy). Is there some way (e.g. masking tape or such) to establish straight line? I'm using Barge glue. What do you use to properly AND neatly apply thick glue like Barge? Q-tip, stick, or?? I'd appreciate any advice on improving my gluing. Thanks, Regis

They look very neat to me. Nice clean lines and circles. Me thinks you like circles.

They are all moving on my screen. I would guess a browser setup issue in internet options. Regis

Tracy, Is that "get togather" in March primarily for knife making, leather work, or both? I'm just over in Pensacola but, am pretty new at leatherwork.

I never though of temporarily gluing togather. I was going to put someting inside and try to punch through both at same time. This will work much better and maintain accuracy. Thank you, Regis

Hope this is not toooo much of beginner question for this forum?? I've been using standard home sewing machine for few small projects that I've done but, now have project with leather that I can not sew inside-out and then turn (3-4 oz I believe). I'm making a small purse and it is 'somewhat' cynlindrical (5 inch wide oval and 7 inches long) with front overlaping back peice at seam. I can overlap edges and glue before punching and sewing but, I'm quite not sure how to punch as it is cylinder. What is correct way to punch these stitching holes? Am I approaching this wrong (gluing, punching, and stitching)? Is there a better way? I want to sheive(SP) the edges of front so it is flat against back. I appreciate any help on this as there are no classes or instructors in this area that I'm aware of. Sure am glad to find forum like this. Regis