Regis

Bruce, It looks like you did a similar handle on the purse you posted today (using 2 rows of stitching). If you Barge, do you still use clips? Or just one way or the other? Thanks Regis

Very nice and like the way you brought the handle through the body. Would you put a holster inside or just let it lay on the bottom! [lol] Regis

Here's a picture of the strap I'm trying to sew for a purse I'm making for my wife. Leather is 2/3 oz and I'm trying to fold both sides to meet in center and sew. I've already ruined one because I could not hold the fold while going through the machine. If it were fabric, I'd iron it first. Do I have to moisten and fold or run a creaser or glue to get it to stay? Or is there something that I'm missing? What is the right way to hold/stitch peices like this? If this one turns out, I'll be making 6 more for daughter & sister-in-laws (almost production work). Thanks, Regis

Kate, That is beautiful work. It's quite interesting how you transitioned the border from 2 row (sides) to 4 row (top & bottom). The virtical lines at top and bottom,,, are they cut through or just light cuts? You got really good depth for leather thin enough for bookmark. What weight leather did you use? Thanks for sharing, Regis

I was beginning to think everyone "esle" was in Sheridan. Wish I was!!! Regis

This one has speed range control from about 200 - 2800 strokes per minute but, only has 1/8" and smaller collets. The handpeice adjusts the stroke length. I'll have to check on those Barry King tools. I can see where it would have good use in beveling and will have to try to make a temporary beveler to try until I can get a proper one. I have a GRS bench mount for holding small jewelry peices. Thanks, Regis

I have a Foredom Power Graver (old Goldsmith side of my shop) and wonder if anyone is using one in leather. If so, do you make your own bits or where do you find bits to fit? I have a couple pointed and one blunt (about 1mm) and they seem too small. Not sure about using the blade gravers on leather but, will give it a try. Thanks, Regis

All really nice work. Thanks for sharing the pic's. Were you trying to get the parafin "into" the leather or as a finish coating? Regis

Kevin, Is that a Bonny Doon press in the background of your photo? Die cutting and forming in leather shop? I used one some for forming silver & gold sheet and to die cut. Mine was strickly manual and slow (lot of handle pumps). BTW, the 3000 should ship today or tomorrow. Regis

I've been learning to carve so I have mostly vegetable tanned leather around. But, I also have some fairly large peices of latigo, goat, and pigskin. Should I sew these all as if they were veg tanned? For example for the same thicknesses of latigo and veg tanned, would I use the same needle and thread in the machine? Or, are there important differences for the integrety of the seam? Thanks of any help. Regis

Just learned that F11 changes to full screen. Once I did that, and opend a window again(from link) it opened full screen (rather than smaller and to the side). fwiw, Regis

I would think that you would form the leather first and just fill it with leather dust and glue. Then add backing. Just my guess. Regis

Denise & Rod, Although I will never be a saddlemaker, I welcome you to this forum and appreciate your method of doing business and sharing ideas. You are amoung people who mostly share what they know and don't claim to know everything (nor the only way that is correct). You mentioned "learning the etiquette" but, in reality, your example already sets a pretty high bar. I like that "in the shop alone" concept as that is the way I like to work or play. Again, welcome from a real leatherworking amature but, no amature in life. Regis

K-Man, That would be terrific and thanks for the offer. I'll PM you. Regis

If you have a central image/figure on front, then I would use a very plain border like 2 parallel lines and run stitching wheel down the center of them. If there is no main image, I'd put olive leaves, end to end around the edge leading to very small crown of thorns centered in the border on top front. In that case, I'd even put a tiney cross in center of crown. That's the best I can offer up. Regis

I appreciate all the input/discussion and I wish there was a dealer/distributor within a couple hundred miles. I got side tracked some with Boss & Bull but, now I'm ready to move on and get the 3000. It does seem most versatile for my non-production-line sewing that I'll be doing for the next few years ( 4-9 oz). Thanks to all, Regis

Quote: "On another note Happy makes a 550 Watt servo motor now that is a little better than their 400 watt model. Number HSM-550 as opposed to the old HSM-400. The new motor is 3/4 horsepower and opposed to the old 1/2 hp. " Art, Thanks for the sound advice. I don't quite undersand the above quote though? Is it related to Artisan, Ferdco, or other?? Regis

I've heard a lot of really good comments here on the Artisan 3000. But, before ploping down near $200 (double if I need to return) for shipping, I'd like to hear if anyone has experience with Ferdco Pro 440R Baby Bull with servo motor. Or, perhaps experience with both the Artisan Toro 3000 and the Baby Bull. I seriously doubt that I will ever go over the 1/2 inch limit of the Ferdco. I will only get a servo model as that has convinced me that I can run the machine as slow & safely as the manual Boss. I'd appreciate any comments, Regis

...........And then there are always those follow-on spam copiers

I did talk to Steve at Artisan and am about convinced to go with 3000 (unless I find a really good deal on a Boss). Thanks a lot for the comments and discussion on this and other related posts. Been reading them all. Regis

After reading a lot of posts, I've learned that there is not any one machine that everyone would choose as THE top one. I need some info to make reasonable decision on a machine. I'm not starting a business and will likely sew one - two projects a month (have to make something with the carvings that are becomming an obsession). I've also learned that I don't care to hand stitch and I definately want the neat stitching that I see on Bruce's belts (just wonderful). It sounds like the powered machines are pretty messy (because of all the lube & oil) and might not be good inside the house but, I don't know that for sure. With machines like Artisan 3000 or Baby Bull can they run slow enough to closely watch one-stitch at a time (e.g. 1 stitch per second)? I know some folks are much opposed to Tippman and some regularly use them but, from those that haven't tossed them out, would you help me with some questions? The newer BOSS seems to be a lightweight machine that I can stash away in a cabinet when not in use. Is that correct? "Assuming" proper setup, will Boss do the perfect stitching that I see in Bruce's belts (about 352 pulls of the handle for my belt)? And, when properly set does it stay set or does it need frequent adjustment? There is just nothing around here for me to look at. The only leather shop I know of nearby just does repairs and all by hand. I'd appreciate any clarification or info on all of this. Regis

Bruce, Once again, thanks for showing us some great work. I know you made exact copy for client but, would you otherwise make the slot the same? Is there a reasonable way to treat the slot edges? Thank you, Regis

Bruce, once again some beautiful belts. Do you glue togather before you sew? Also, I have same question as David. Thanks for letting us see some fine work (wow on those edges). Regis

JohnD, Welcome to the forum. Don't hesitate to ask questions because this is a great group of folks that are willing to help and share. I'm pretty new (less than a year in leatherwork) and it is difficult to articulate how much I appreciate the education and encouragement I have received. Help from this forum adds a lot of pleasure & satisfaction, especially to us new leatherworkers. Regis

Bruce, Belts are simply great. What machine did you use to sew those belts? regis