Regis

Very nice work. Particularly like your dye and antiquing. Regis (hoping to get that good)

Probably a good idea for folks that live in same area. But, shipping and handling/repackaging would probably defeat any savings. And, complicated if someone wanted to return? For those that live close togather and can meet, it would probably work just fine. Regis

Well, dry works just fine. Knife is sharp enough and works great with leather dry. Don't know where I "mis-learned" to case before skiving. This is one of the really great things about this forum. If you get off on a wrong tangent, there are folks here to help get back on track. I have one of the Super skiver and I don't like it at all either. Haven't tried the other one. Thanks all, Regis

I'm getting some tearing when I skive low weight leather (3 oz in this case). I'm pretty sure my knife is sharp enough as it only tears toward the outer edge (of 7/16 wide). Skiving on the flesh side do I let the leather dry on outer surface like I would for normal carving/stamping. Is it the same? Is tearing, perhaps, a symptom of too wet? Thanks, Regis

Bill, Appreciate all the tips. And, yep, it sure would be better to slick and finish edges AFTER assembly. Thanks, Regis

Dale, I sure see what you mean by seeing "through" the water on that 2nd example. I can see some of the leg and face with splashing going up. Really good touch of realism. Regis

I watched "Use and Care of Hand Tools" video by Andy Stasiak this morning. I wish I had bought this and watched it when I was first getting started. Of all the videos and books that I've looked at this is the most helpful (except possibly Figure Carving Finesse by Al Stohlman). It goes into detail on sharpening all kinds of leather working tools and gives a little bit on proper use. Great stuff for beginner (which I still am). It's not exactly fast paced but I still didn't fall asleep, not even once. Regis

After a (now) embarrassing purse and carving project when I 1st joined this forum, I've been learning and practicing a lot. Most of the guidence here has been specific to solve a problem or improve something. I'm making a small purse for my daughter and have compiled the steps I plan on using. Will you confirm, add, or re-arrange this list so that I will complete it correctly (or at least one of the correct ways)? 1- cut-out all leather and liners to pattern 2- completely carve and tool leather (if hand sewing cut sew line) 3- dye leather base color you want 4- apply any coloring (dye or paint) and/or mask to specific areas (e.g. scene, figure, etc) 5- apply antique and wipe off immediately 6- burnish edges and apply edge treatment 7- Apply a coat of finish (e.g. Super Shene) 8- glue liner to body and gussets (silk in this case) 9- sew/attach any internal parts/pockets (closing latch and elastic strap for BlackBerry in this case) 10- glue gussets and body togather 11- attach D-ring (glue, sew, rivet, etc) 12- sew sides/seams if applicable 13- attach strap (glue, sew, rivet, etc) 14- Apply 2nd finish coat over all leather and buff 15- Give purse to waiting daughter Do I have a sound procedure or are there missing or out of place steps? I have learned to read/listen before messing up another bunch of leather.. And, I do appreciate all that I've been learning here. Regis

Aaahhh, I remember the days.....110 MS and 40 unix servers, 120 application developers, 35,000 email users, 39 tech's, 200+ emails a day (and night)........do I miss managing a tech supt group???????? Ha! Retired from it (ulcers and all) 6 years ago and have done a short streech in real estate.......time to just do leather and goldsmithing!!! Regis

Hello Gesa, Welcome to this fine group of professional, intermediate, and beginning leather workers from various parts of the world. Regis

What a great scene and your elks are amazing. I noticed that one of the 1st things Al said in Figure Carving Finesse is to study the rain pages in Pictorial Carving Finesse (which I don't have). It looks like he used a small matting tool a lot more in the water background and the pointed tool scattered and mostly at the top of the water sprays. Your elk scene looks like the bear in Al's book and he shows no carving in the water, only the bear. All the water area seems to me to be done with stamping. Regis

Clay, That will do the trick. I have the 916 & 917 but, hadn't thought of draging them to make longer grass. The front cover of Figure Carving Finesse has a lion in tall grass and that's what I was looking for. Thanks, once again. Regis

I'm trying to put animals (a cougar or a buffalo or an antelope, etc) in tall grass plains or rolling hill setting and can not figure out how to show the close grass. The distant grass is ok because it is so small and on background hills. But, grass that is up close in front and around the animal is what I'm having difficulty representing (and I don't want to just paint it on in different color/shade). Typically feet or parts of body are hiden by grass (depending if animal is standing or lying). Will someone post carvings/tooling that they've done that would work as example? Single color would be most helpful but, tooled/cut and painted will work if close up, detailed scan/photo. Thanks, Regis

When you carve on 2 or 3 oz leather do you pick a subject or scene that you can use a silhouette or outline with only cut details? Or, can you actually get lots of detail as you can on 6oz or larger leather? I've been carving/learning on 5-6 oz leather and am beginning to get the hang of shaping. I have a small project that calls for 2oz. It's a small purse to hold Blackberry, lipstick, & credit card and very light weight is crucial. And, I can sew 2-3oz on my home machine. Thanks for any suggestions. Regis

Here are 3 cougars that I've carved. Bottom one was my 5th (2 weeks ago) 6th (middle-last week) and top one is this week. Hopefully each has some improvement. I've gotten some tips in the forum that help me improve. ClayB has been emense help. With each one, I've learned to see more detail and learned to tool with more progression (rather than "BANG"). Even so, I've done a little damage to each one so I'm not quite ready to put one on an actual article YET. I think Clay is going to post one of these cougars done more professionally. For anyone that saw the elephant that I first posted (wish I could delete that post) these cougars are big improvement. What a great place to learn. Regis

Oscar, Welcome to this great forum. Nice work. Regis

The handcranks are available for Singer and some clones (according to my brother who collects and restores antique Singers). He says the Standar is probably a clone of the Singer 15-88. Regis

Bruce, That's a great tip about using the streak/stretch as advantage to enhance an area intended to flex. I'll have to work on that smoothing though because it shows through areas where I've only lightly tooled. When I dye & antique, I'll see if it absorbs evenly or shows. Thanks again, Regis

Clay, I think you're right about this being neck area. There is much less in the center portion of the side. Guess it is good that I'm using this part to practice carving. Thanks, Regis

The streakes definately go into the leather and not just surface color. I'm not up to making holster, yet but, I do have several handguns to work with. I'm mostly working on my carving BUT, the post last month about molding leather to custom fit a handgun really caught my attention. Thanks, Regis

I don't have much experience with tooling leather and am curious about quality. I've read everywhere that Hermann Oak is the best tooling leather so I orded a side of 5/6 at a good sale (hidecrafters). It is a lot better than the peices that I was buying here & there but, I don't really know what I have. Is this simply a lower grade or is it what I should expect with top grade and have to learn to work around. Streaked-leather Thanks, Regis

Indeed, "Happy Birthday". You "should" get the day off do do what you enjoy best!..... If you are self-employed, that is a pretty tough boss though! Regis (who is greatful for your help and partcipation here).

It's in anticipation of global warming :biggrin: Regis

The rolled edge video is great (although slow/monotone as most of these). I could not skive properly and then watched the rolled edge video. I can now (ater some practice) skive more evenly that I thought I ever could. The other 2 are pretty good and certainly worth more than the five bucks. Regis

I've been picking up tips here and have gotten some offline help. I decided to post this "work-in-progress" so other beginners may pick something up from the responses. I decided to work on the cougars on page 13 of Stohlman's Figure Carving Finess book (thanks for the book tip Clay). Here is my latest effort. Please comment on how I can make more realistic and enhance mussle lines. Hopefully Clay or others will send some tips on this one. Below are links to couple of previous practices. last-cougar Painted cougar mentioned in other post Regis