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Regis

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Everything posted by Regis

  1. In addition to what Art said, I had similar experience. I used to do some engraving and people tried to give me "their" item (spoon, vase, buckle, etc) to engrave. Problem was that If I accidently slipped or it broke, what am I replacing it with. Customers seem to understand that if yours breaks, you can go to the supplier and get replacement for defective one. If you use theirs, and it breaks, what then? Regis
  2. I think I would take a small area and lightly wipe on a thin 2nd coat of supersheen. Let it dry & buff. It may blend with the existing 1st coat. Regis
  3. Clay, A carving challange motivates people to tool,,,,even the ones who don't post all their results. Maybe worth a try again even if not monthly but, just when interesting subject gets some visability here, like this one. Regis
  4. Welcome to LWnet. You must have had a lot of stick-time with a swivelknife to retain that for 20 years. Glad you're getting back and you'll probably bring with you some hepful tips for others. Do you plan on getting back into belts & holsters? regis
  5. BBQ, just got in some Corkey's via Fedex. That's the only way we can get good BBQ down here in Florida. I fished many bass tournaments in Sardis & Enid in your part of Mississippi. Regis
  6. I have a Foredom Graver that is similar to what Bruce described but, with adjustable speed & stroke. If I had a beveler or backgrounder to fit it I'd probably use it a good bit. But, with engraving chisels and diamond point it has not be useful on leather (great on tiney gold & silver work). Regis
  7. And, Thank You, and I'll pass it on. May fathers be fathers, protect and love your children.
  8. I've made a tooled & soft bag (from Bruce Johnson's excellent instruction booklet) and I'm trying to make a lining that will fit. I want the lining to be like a bag inside so the sewn edge of outside bag or liner do not show. I would sew it around the top to hold it in place inside. Can anyone offer tips as to how to layout & sew the lining together to get the top edges the same size as the inside edge of the purse/bag? My trial & error keeps getting some part gathering/wrinkling when I sew the lining to the purse/bag. And, I'm using those really cool roller snaps from Steve "Snap" here on LW.net so this is a higher end bag for my daughter. Appreciate and help. Regis
  9. Welcome to LW.net. That is quite a diverse selection of guitar straps. Glad you found us and share photo's of your work Regis
  10. Well, to close this out, it's back to basics for me. After help here including Art's note about thread size and talking to CobraSteve on the phone, I have the solution. #1 - Thread & needle too big for leather thickness - 2oz leather needs 69 or smaller and #18 or smaller needle. - There is simply not enough thickness for the lockstitch with 138 thread - Back stitching with larger needle compounded problem #2 - I was careless with the ends of the thread both at beginning and end of stitching. #3 - I was not setting up BOTH upper tension and bobbin tension for each leather, thread, & needle combination. #4 - My bobbin case & spring needed cleaning and adjusting. I do wonder if there is a chart "somewhere" that says what thread is reccomended for different thicknesses of leather. My thanks to everyone that helped me through this. Regis
  11. Art, Glad to hear needles are ok. I'll load some #69 (smallest I have) and an 18 needle and sew the thin leather. Will post picture(s). I want to try to sew better/neater BEFORE I order that new machine from Steve. Thanks, regis
  12. All the needles I have are the same type, just different sizes (18-23). Here is what is on each pack: Schmetz Canu: 37:20KJ1 NM:125 Size __ 135x16 DIA DPx16 DIA Jim, Bob, the needle cuts look straight and are slices not round. Removing the thread shows row of straight slices. The blade "looks" like it might have a very slight cant but no where near 45 degrees. I bought all the needles from Sailrite as this machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 clone and I bought some attachments there. It is what they sell as leather needle. I should be talking to CobraSteve today and will order some needles. It sure would be nice if changing needle type improves my stitching. Thanksfor all the help. Regis
  13. I am using leather needles(135x16 Dia). Went to thicker leather (2/3 on 3/4). Stitches are nice and reverse at end is good. But, still loose at beginning (even pulling both strings firmly to rear). The top string is the looses/looped one at beginning of stitch line. Tried a peice of 8/9oz and it looks good beginning & end. Thanks, Regis
  14. This is a new needle but, not a new problem. I'm just doing more stitching in visable places and I need to clean it up. Pulling threads firmly toward back seems to help. Have to head out for a few hours but, will try different thread, needle, & leather when I get back Thanks, Regis
  15. I've tried #20, #22, & #23 needles with 92 & 138 thread. Have same with #69 thread & 18 needle. As far as I know, everything is tight although I don't know how to check the feed dogs(not obviously loose). Needle is inserted right. Have held thread to the side but, not necessarily tight. I do have a bad habbit of just sliding thread out of the way. Should it be pulled tight at beginning and when removing peice? I'll have to play with that some. I also do a lot at beginning and end turning flywheel by hand because I need it SLOW. Thanks, Regis
  16. I'm having a problem getting the beginning and end of my stitching clean. Please take a look at these and help me improve my stitching. I can secure with a drop of glue but, still looks loose and bulky. I'll be getting a new machine but, I don't think(?) this is a machine problem. The line not being straight may(?) be machine. This is with #92 on 2 layers of 2/3 oz. Appreciate any help. Thank, Regis
  17. Regis

    tiger

    Just beautiful work. I can't tell on the picture, is there tooling on the face where the black markings are? Or, do you just have the face tooled/curved back from the nose and dye/paint the black marks? Again, just beautiful work. regis
  18. I guess it depends on what your convictions are and how important your convictions are to you. I absolutely would not make anything that would be in any way offensive to me, my wife, my children, or parents (now deceased). Now bad taste is another matter I've made some ugly items! Regis
  19. Please accept my "day-late" happy birthday. Regis
  20. Bruce, Adding my thanks. Is the term/part called a "yoke" any tooled area sewn onto the bag or is it a functional part? Thanks again, Regis
  21. Welcome and looking forward to seeing some pictures of your work.
  22. Inkscape is a free program for vector graphics. It has pretty easy feature to let you take a raster graphic (.jpg) and vectorize it in 2 color (or more). Regis
  23. Nice peice. And, it does look like it is simply comfortable in the hand. Is that garmet leather or? Regis
  24. That is an excellent short video. For those of us isolated from other leatherworkers, it was awesome. I wish they would have done the same detail on bags as they did bridles & saddles. Thank you!
  25. Welcome boisdevie to this helpful and friendly place. Looks like you are off to a very good start. Did you dye & topcoat these? Looks pretty even. Nice.
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