BDAZ

Well that's exactly why I avoided filament printing, but current resin printing is plug and play and with water based resins, a breeze to clean up. I literally unpacked the machine, loaded a model from Thingiverse and a couple of hours later I had a pilot curing in the sun! Easy Peasy. Bob

Too Funny! Flown over St. John's numerous times but never been there. Almost went to a Celtic festival a few years ago (I play Irish tenor banjo) and I played with some folks from the province also a few years ago. Most Statesiders don't realize Newfoundland became a part of Canada as recently as 1949. Of course there are some that think Canada is a US state! I was once on a photographic field trip with my students and we were camped near Lubec, ME. I was taking some photos near the international bridge, and asked the US border guard if I could cross and he said "sure". I took a few pics on the bridge and lets just say, as a Photography professor in the 60s, I wasn't clean cut. When I passed him on my way back he yelled "Halt!" Then he asked me for my papers. I pointed to my car, only 30 meters away and he said, "I can't let you into the US without documents" Arguing was to no avail, so I walked back over to the Canadian side and explained my situation. They told me to wait, and a in a while, an old station wagon with a could of Mainers, known to the guards came by. They asked them to hide me under blankets in the back and was able to return to my homeland! Bob

I have been looking at Fusion and will check out solid works. As for slicers, I started with the manufacturer recommended Chitubox but shortly discovered Lychee which seems to be better, especially the Pro. I have been using the slightly more expensive Elegoo water washable. I will testing some less expensive Chinese resins soon. In tests I have made with the Elegoo, it seems to have sufficient compressive strength to work well. It's not great with shear or elasticity, but there are traditional resins that can compete with ABS if I want to deal with the mess. I did test filament printed stamps for a project 5 years ago or so, and the quality was not up to the job. even sanding and using a torch, I couldn't get the surface smooth enough. The resin printer is 100% if the model is properly oriented and supported. I like your sewing machine analogy and I turn down jobs that won't run on my Cowboy, because they are too thin. The only imitation at the moment is the build size, but I will invest in a larger one if I start running out of build space. Funny, your comment about filament origins...when I was a kid I used to spend my summers in Europe, I met a fellow English speaking traveler, an adult, and I asked him where he was from and he said America. I asked him what state Canada. Since then I never use America to refer to the United States, don't want to get Canadian nickers in a twist... I have spent delightful times in Montreal, Vancouver and most recently, Guelph. Bob

Thanks, I'll give it a go. I have been making some progress with Photoshop, got as far as creating a usable STL but the process is not intuitive and laborious, especially after spending years (since Photoshop Beta .07) with PS 2D. Cheers! Bob

I recently acquired a Creality LD002H resin printer. I have been looking at 3D printers for years, but the filament printers were too Rube Goldberg with poor results and the resin printers were too expensive and messy. Finally there is a perfect storm of inexpensive, high resolution printers, easy to use slicing software and most importantly, water washable resin with almost no odor. I am in the process of bending Photoshop to my will, never having used the 3D functions but wondering what software folks are using to create stamps, etc. I have had the printer for a week and have attached a few pics of my first days prints and a few subsequent ones. I am hoping to make custom stamps with text, SW and Celtic designs for belts and other items i make commercially. The first pic is my first day's prints, then a pilot and seat for an RC plane I am working on, and then a stand for a Badger 105 airbrush. Thanks! Bob

I have found an inexpensive excellent cleaner is windshield washer liquid. Another technique is thin 1:1 with 70% distilled water and 30% Isopropyl Alcohol (91% -99%). It flows better and dries faster. Alot of the online brushes come with .02 needles, good for painting, but for apply resolene you need a .05 and around 25 psi Bob

I was having issues with clogging on the cheap brush that came in the "kit". I purchased a decent airbrush; a Badger Patriot. Not top of the line but it comes with a .05 needle and the needle is double tapered so it has a large range from heavy to fine. It does a fantastic job of applying resolene evenly and is very cost effective. I guess I use half of what I would usually wipe on and it has the advantage of not disturbing any painted features and absolutely no streaking. A couple of light coats and "Ship it" There are a number of acrylic finishes available for airbrushing as well as for sealing art and wood and painting model airplanes. Quite frankly I haven't noticed any difference between resolene and some of the other products. I'm sure it's all pretty much the same stuff. I suspect resolene is over priced! I have a large wholesale job I am about to start and I suspect the airbrush will save me a lot of time and $$$ and will probably pay for itself on this one project alone. Bob

I was an architectural photographer in Dublin in the early 70s and did the pics for the Doors of Dublin poster and the Book of Kells used on the "new" Irish currency, as well as lots of boring progress shots and a few interesting buildings. My main interest was Irish trad, and I stayed with the Sands in Mayo Bridge and hung out with a lot of the now famous musicians in Dublin, like Christy Moore, Billy Connolly, etc. I play with a Piper from Belfast who came over with a band of young musicians in the early 90s called The Antrim Tantrums. Was in a Bluegrass Irish fusion band a few years ago and we toured for a couple of weeks. we stayed in Bangor for a few days and played at this pub which was outside of Bangor... I haven't touched an instrument since I got home in mid march! Actually bought one yesterday but it's got non standard fittings, really flimsy and has a 1/4" adapter for a standard compressor. Bringing it back today!! The Badger looks much better! Bob

Thanks Fred, Great suggestion. I'll order one today. Where in the North are you? Lived in the Republic in the 70s and spent time in Mayo Bridge and Derry. I organize a festival in Lisdoonvarna every year and just made it home in March! Probably the last festival held in Ireland this year. www.irisholdtime.com Bob

I currently have a brand X that came with my compressor. It's similar in design to the badger if not in quality. Capacity is adequate. I did pick up a syphon brush from Harbor Freight for the occasional larger project. Thanks! Bob

Thanks to both of you. Cutting the resolene 1:1 with distilled water. The bottle I am using is a few years old, but I just purchased a fresh quart. I use a blend of isopropyl, windex and distilled water as a cleaner. I may try using my ultrasonic cleaner if I still get gunk. I have been looking at a Badger for my next brush. Are you happy with it? Thanks, Bob

years ago I bought a spray gun to use for applying resolene and dyes for commercial projects, but the resolene never really worked well. I was plagued with clogs and went back to sponge applications. I recently acquired an air brush for an unrelated project but thought it mighty be ideal for applying resolene. I did a quick test. The finish was perfect but the air brush clogged pretty quickly and required a through cleaning to remove the resolene gunk. If anyone id using resolene in an airbrush, what dilutions are you using and what dilutant. I am using acrylic paints for my other project and am also thinking of using paints to dyes to accent some of my products. I currently use inexpensive metallic acrylic paints and they hold up as well or better than the dedicated leather paints with a vast selection of colors. Thanks! Bob

That was a good lead. I discovered the problem was the presser foot was getting stuck and wasn't descending all the way. Just enough to cause the work to slip but not every time. I took apart the "Front End" and discovered some of the parts were rough. No rust here in Tucson, but seemed to more gummed up with dried oil. I ran a few of the parts on the buffer and got them factory smooth and reassembled everything, many, many , many times. I finally realized it was the foot pedal mechanism binding and since it has always been nearly impossible to use I never actually used it in the 6 years I have owned the machine. I just disconnected it, reassembling a few more times getting the adjustments right and all seems fine. I am not sure if I need to have the presser foot directly on the base or a bit above. I 'll do some sewing tests tomorrow, when my patience has returned. I now have a much better idea of how all the stuff under the front cover works and I'll be more effective with my oiler in future. Bob

Not the same. The foot is in a fixed position, held with a screw. Thanks!

About an inch when the foot is lowered. Bob

I have had my 3200 for 6 years or so and I have never had any issues. Recently I had a custom order for a piece that consists of two pieces of 6oz leather laminated with pig skin suede lining on both pieces. I have to stitch the perimeter then the flap which is a single side and then back to the top and bottom. The "flap" is stitched suede down and I have insufficient grip on the piece and the piece slips and the stitch goes awry. The suede is quite slick. I would like to lower the foot so it is touching the base (not sure what the word is) to get maximum grip on the piece. I have cranked down the tension spring on the foot. The beauty of the Cowboy is that i can pull a few inches of stitches and restitch exactly in the original holes. Suggestions? In addition any one have a way of minimizing a couple of rogue needle holes? Bob

Trying to understand the point of the current discussion?

Fred, If someone brought a branded concho to be, say Ford, or what ever, and asked me to put it on their wallet, I wouldn't hesitate. If some came to me with 1000 conchos and asked me to make 1000 items and afix the logo, I would tell him to take a hike. The disclaimer has no legal standing in patent and trademark law. Bob

Where in the North are you? Hung my hat in Mayo Bridge for a while in the 70s. Got out of the UK in March by the skin of my teeth.Had been on holiday... Bob

Sounds like you have been on lock down too long mate! First off you need to read up on the difference between a patent, a copyright and a trademark. I have all three and they are distinct protections for different activities. The thing you are not understanding is that when I sell a "branded" item be it a key chain or a logo on a Ferrari and it is sold with the understanding that it is for purchase by a consumer who will use it for the use intended by the manufacturer. Not to imply a fraudulent product is endorsed or produced by the original manufacturer. The UGG (Not UGH as you have written) boots (I hate them) were not patented but was trade marked along with an accompanying logo There is no such thing as prior art in trademarks. Bob

Legally I doubt it would have any standing. If you copy a trade marked or patented or copyright design doesn't matter if it says "Made on Mars" you are liable to a law suit.

Post it in the show off with a link to somewhere with a downloadable pattern and instructions. You could also establish a Paypal link for donations. Bob Tucson

The problem is the paint! Go to your local hobby shop and buy their acrylic paint. Works better than "leather paint" and available in a myriad of colors and finishes and inexpensive. I use a lot of silver and gold metallic..

I also use mop and glo great in the kitchen too! What do you mean by lift? It's not sticking to the paint or the paint is lifting?

Use either resolene or tan kote. Be aware that what you have after dying and after final finish will never be the same, even with oil dyes. You can see the color difference between the celtic knot embossing and background, solely a result of the resolene application. Bob