BDAZ

I sometimes use water based dyes and always do a final seal with resolene. After dying remove as much excess dye as possible. I DON'T dilute the Resolene but apply with a cellulose sponge that has been thoroughly rinsed in water then squeezed but sell somewhat wet. Her in AZ where humidity in my workshop is 10% I have to work fast but even if there are small bubbles, they disappear and I am left with a perfect finish. You will remove a percentage of the dye when applying the resolene. In addition I usually oil the project prior to dying as most of my items are wet formed. Another possibility is that your resolene went South. I did have a batch that spoiled and cracked and peeled on areas that were subject to flexing. The belt was a quick project for a friend but it has 2 Ecoflow dye, neatsfoot and 2 coats of resolene.

Thanks!!

Pretty Lame...

Any suggestions? The oil stains are from years of use. I have tried saddle soap and neatsfoot to no avail. Thanks! Bob

Shouldn't take 5 hours for stamping! I spray down my leather with a Tandy sprayer until it has absorbed sufficient water thane I cover it in plastic and let it sit for up to an hour. I may have to give it a touch up spray every now and then while I am working. Humidy in my work shop is at around 20%. Bob

Was the scrap the same?

I've started to cut into my Wickett and Craig drum dyed leather I use commercially. Hopefully I'll cover leather costs. I have just had a spate of skinning knife sheath orders that will more than cover and short fall on the karambit. EQachhide is different and some are selected by the tanneries for their carving and stamping properties. What weight is your double shoulder? Bob

Not my choice and the owner wanted it utilitarian, plain with no decoration. The final will be medium brown and finished edges with a makers stamp on the tab area.There are two sewn belt loops on the back. This was a tough one. The owner didn't think it was possible... Definitely not making any money on this commission but it was a challenge. Bob

Actually not. The handle has a snug grip but the blade itself has plenty of room and is actually loose inside. The leather was vacuum formed over a wood maquette which allowed plenty of room for removal and reinsertion. The is the 7th or 8th attempt. I used welts, carbon fiber lining, etc, and all failed. Either sliced the stitching or too tight for easy removal.

This is a prototype with belt loops stitched. No finishing to speak of. I left it too long in the sun and it got over cooked. Hard enough to stand on and brittle and the drum dye got weird. I wet formed another one with 20 minutes of set time that will be for the final assembly. I plan to coat the inside with table top epoxy.

I have decided to drop the pancake idea. When I laid out a design, the minimum distance between loops was 9". He wants to carry horizontal and 9" of horizontal knife will be extremely uncomfortable, unless for rear carry, so I am running with belt loops stitched to the back maybe 6" or less apart. The owner hasn't been able to find a sheath that allows horizontal carry, hence the commission Thanks, Bob .

Nice Job! I'm in the middle of a sheath for a Karambit with a severe curve and extremely sharp dual sided blade. The owner uses it for self defense as he is not allowed to carry a firearm by his employer. I have wet formed the actual housing but I need to affix it to a pancake style back to hold it in the preferred orientation for fast draw. I have not made that style sheath yet. Is there a standard for the belt loops, length and width, and possibly a minimum or maximum distance between them? Also is there a practical reason for the angle on the loops or is it purely aesthetic? I appreciate your help! Bob

Should have paid more attention to how the check spring was working...Oh well! I think the felt washers make the adjustments more consistent. Back to work!! Bob

Just wanted to say how thrilled I am with my "new" 3200. I have been using the machine for 6 years and always though it just wasn't designed for 5 oz leather. In the attached test pic, I slowly and gradually adjusted the tension and the knots disappeared into the leather then loosened up a bit and up they came! (This was a test on some scrap) . The back was perfect. That would have been IMPOSSIBLE last week! It's like someone snuck into my workshop and swapped my old machine for a new one! Thanks again to all! Bob

Felt on both sides seems to work as well. I'll be stitching later today and will see how it works on my next project. Maybe the bright red helps? Happy machines make happy stitches? Thanks! Bob

Only felt I have is bright red, which I use for restoring '20s banjo cases. Probably now have the most stylish 3200 in the neighborhood! Haven't tested it yet but looks cool! Bob

Easy enough to punch out a couple.

Apparently they are not supplied with the 3200. I guess that's why they can sell them so cheap! Bob

Thanks! Not binding ...if it ain't broke..... Bob

Sorry, I was referring to the lower upper tensioner. I think someone had mentioned in another thread that most 441 type machines include felt washers between the metal discs and the roller wheel. Bob

Speaking of check springs, I took off the front cover this morning and reduced the check spring tension spring tension (whew, that's a mouth full) by 50%-60%. Now I can reduce the top tension to the point where I can almost get knots on the bottom (never happened before) and I get full travel on the check spring with every stitch. Feels like I just bought a new machine!! Single layer 5-6 oz stitches with 138 and a 23 needle are perfect! No stitching trough the thread, all is good!! Thanks again to everyone who contributed to solving this problem. Last question would there be any advantage to cutting a couple of felt discs for the upper top tensioner? I have not fine tuned the upper tension yet, this is the first shot with the adjusted catch spring. The leather is exactly 2mm / 5oz. I just notice I need to back off the foot tension which I increased when the cover was off... Bob

I use the front of the foot as a guide for following sharp curves. If anything, I'd cut an index mark dead center. Bob

I did watch this very useful video put the check spring tension spring was properly engages as was the check spring on the hook. Thanks! Bob

What is happening is that the check spring tension seems to be too tight and the thread simply slides through. If I crank top tension down I may get some movement of the check spring but not full travel unless the top is set realy tight, then I end up with knots on the top of the single 5oz.

The Main tensioner consists of a wheel with two friction discs on either side. It is designed to spin and I read that some 441 clones include felt washers between the discs and wheel.