BDAZ
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Everything posted by BDAZ
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Just to further Hanna's comments, cost should NOT be the deciding factor. Decide what machine you NEED and then figure out how to pay for it. Bob
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Consulting the MSDS of bothe the Pro and Regular, I see little difference, which may be in the percentages used of various alcohols in each formulation, Maybe the ingredients in the Pro cost more so can add the word pro and charge more. I'd test dye a piece of scrap and see how close it is to the original Pro color. I use the standard Feibings dyes. Bob
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It's all about training. So that's why you have the basenji!
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Wow!
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I thought you would have an Elkhund or Buhund. I have been watching a number of Norwegian TV series and always keep an eye out for local dog breeds. I used to own a German Spitz and my last girlfriend has 6 border collies. I gave up on leather for the collies and went with BioThane® Coated Webbing. Bob
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Well I sell all my items so a balance of durability, aesthetics and cost (man hours) are critical. If it's a hobby for you, then go to town. I had a boss once who gave me some really good advice: "never love anything that can't love you back."
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Bad logic! A bounce means that the energy is being deflected and not doubled. A dead blow transfers all of the energy to the work precisely because it doesn't bounce. I have a 2 lb and a 4lb and use them primarily for hole and slot punches. I use a 2 ton arbor for all my 3D stamping and a poly mallet for stamping. For rivets I use a short handles steel hammer. Best source for dead blows in Harbor Freight Bob
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I would beg to differ from my neighbor to the North and laminate the goat and cow together and then trim to get a perfect edge which can be edged and finished with dye and waxed. A dog collar is going to get some heavy use and I would worry about the glue delaminating at the centers. I have made a number of lined dog collars for a breeder and trainer and they really took a beating, especially playing fetchit at the river (in NC ot Tucson). Might work for a ladies belt but I would go with a simpler, tougher solution. Bob
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I was in a similar situation and went for the Cowboy 3200 and it was one of the best investments i have made. Based on having that machine, I was able to turn my hobby into a business and have paid for the machine many times over. The efficiency and timesaving a high quality machine is tough to beat and the 3200 is well priced and will do almost everything the larger machines will do. The 3200 is only $400 more than the Outlaw. If you wanted to work in an environment that had no electricity like maybe craft shows, ren fests or Syria, it would be a great choice, but there are some quirks including having to lift the needle to turn the work, and using one hand to guide the work and the other to stitch. I often need both hands. Bob
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This was prior to my starting leather working. BTW each arrow is around $80.
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Just finished an order for a name in Hebrew.. I cut the letters, bevel all cut edges and then use a backgrounder to "lower the background and add texture. In this case the textured background is painted black with USMC Blach,and the letters are painted metallic gold. Bob
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I competed nationally in FITA and I would have been very pleased to have a rig like that! Well done! Bob
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Not yet. I don't believe edge paint would stick to the silicone but if the silicone could be used as a combination filler/edge dressing, that could be the business. To that end I am playing with a slot with a small rounded end that can be used to run a perfect bead of silicone across the top of the edge producing a perfect rounded silicone edge and fill. Black silicone would be perfect. Will definitely try the corn starch as well. Thanks! Bob
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Thanks for the input but a quick set solution is essential. Bob
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You wont be sorry. Get a batch of snaps too.
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I only use #24 snaps and use both Gold Star's and Tandy and all are perfect! I position a 4 ton jack next to the rear and set up the press so that the fully extended handle is resting on the jack at a low angle. Then I simple crank the jack to the level I want . The 2 ton arbor press is definitely overbuilt but I don't push it. I generally use it for smaller embossing plates when I want to maintain pressure for a while to get a good impression. Bob
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My first impression after seeing the photograph was Cobra. I have seen a number of cobras, in situ, when I lived in Africa. The most common was the spitting cobra, but there are many varieties that are marked with patterns, etc. This is definitely a snake you don't want hanging around in your backyard. Bob
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What I notice is that the flesh side will pick up an texture that may exist on the cutting surface and of course you are pushing the grain into the cutting surface as opposed to pushing it towards the flesh. Bob
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I also have a 12 ton and use it exclusively for large embossing plates and cutting dies. It is too slow and impractical for stamping. The 2 ton arbor is ideal, plenty of work space and quick to use for alphabets, 3d stamps and makers mark. I had mine made with a back like a 3D stamp. I have added a bottle jack that enables me to keep pressure on the handle as long as necessary for stamping. I have a zero failures with the Gold Star and I know it is used in production work by garment makers. Bob
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You may have missed that this is production work and I find using tape saves me lots of assembly time and eliminates drips and ruined pieces. The parts have quite a bit of work already invest in decoration prior to belong assembled. I only use glue for touch ups. I was thinking of making a paste with glue and a black filler but I am not sure how well glue will take edge paint. So far all my tests have failed. Bob
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Another experiment, I punched a hole at the edge of an old credit card producing a semicircle the diameter of the width of the leather. I applied a bead of caulk to the edge of the leather and "squeegeed" the bead forming a perfect semicircular bead the exact width of the edge. It dried perfectly. I am going to obtain some black caulk which could be an alternative to edging, burnishing and painting. The white looks perfect! It would be easy to make a jig that would be a slot with a rounded top the exact width of the project, and one would simply draw the leather through and form a perfect bead on the edge in one step. Bob
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Is that a commercial product or do you make it? Bob
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I use undiluted acrylic to highlight stamps and letters. This is a quickie strap I made from scraps for a new banjo I acquired a few years ago. The acrylic still looks freshly painted. Bob
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I have seen these at leather shows and they are much quieter than a manual hammer. I also recommend a 2 ton arbor press for all 3D stamps and lettering, etc and a rivet press for snaps, rivets etc. Last resort: That should keep the complaints to a minimum
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I assume that if you can dilute the black, you may be able to evaporate some water and thicken the paint a bit as well, though I see little difference in viscosity between the Edgekote and paint when applied to the edge with a tool. Bob
