BDAZ

This is a further on to my thread on glueless linings. Using HeatnBond I am able to bond any lining material to Veg tanned leather. Using the lamination process I have tested and now use fabric instead of dyeing or suede lining some of my products. Quicker, cheaper and less messy and predictable. I thought it might be nice to find a fabric with some Book of Kells printing on it from some of my Celtic items, but nothing available that would work. I thought I would see if I could print my own. Turned out to be a piece of cake. I cut an 8 1/2 x 11 piece of white duck fabric, tacked a slightly small piece of HeatnBond to the fabric, trimmed to the HeatnBond and then printed the fabric in my Canon ink jet printer. Once dry, I sprayed the image with a Krylon glossy artists fixative and then removed the release paper and bonded the fabric to my leather blank, 30 seconds at 250F. I then built the item for testing. I used scrap offcuts leather which was a bit spongy, and also tested stitching closer to the edge than normal. Because the leather was a bit spongy, the stitching is a bit uneven this close to the edge with a standard presser foot. I then oiled the case and applied Resolene to both the leather and lining and finished the edges. The printing seems to be stable and should hold up well under use. Off the shelf ink jet fabric is also available which is coated for printing and produces more vibrant color. This is a lot cheaper! Bob

I had a look and didn't see anything but you may: https://ohiotravelbag.com Where in ID? Bob

I may have not been clear but I did not make the quiver I posted, it's similar in design to mine. Bob

You can find this stuff at any hobby store including Michaels, JoAnn Fabrics, Hobby Lobby and of course Amazon. Tack for 4-5 seconds on the lining then peel and iron for 30-45 seconds on Med High. Test first but use plenty of pressure. Bob

Harbor Freight Burisher $34 Cocobolo burnisher with 3/8 shaft $44 Arbor adaptor, 1/2" to 3/8" $12 Total $90 Not blowing $250 on a Tandy Burnisher Priceless The buffer wheel is fantastic for stropping and sharpening swivel knives, head knives and box cutter blades. Don't know how I did without it! Had this about two weeks now and love it. The burnisher works fine at 3450 rpm. Speed is a function of diameter. A larger burnisher may be too fast.

You bought the wrong stuff. Did you see the video? Remember that the first application is just to tack the sheet to the lining. It doesn't have to bond, just stay in place while you remove the release paper and place on the leather piece. I tack the HnB for 3 seconds or so. It would easily peel off at this stage. Once placed on the piece I use 30 seconds on the press and I would follow their directions but keep up the pressure. I also throw the piece lining side down on granite to cool under pressure. It's actually pretty simple and works 100% Bob

I have always preferred this style of quiver for target archery. Since you only need 6 arrows, you always know exactly how many you have already shot, silent when walking back from the target and easier to sit down in between shots and pack The pocket is large enough to carry essentials. Mine is similar but more of a basketweave holster style. It has a separator of 3 pairs of arrows. This image is from the net. Of course for target archery, my arrows are the diameter of knitting needles.

I retired in 2009, they changed the name from FITA to World Archery in 2011. Thanks for the update! I have been shooting under FITA since the early 60s. A separated shoulder in a bicycle accident put the final nail in the coffin! Bob

I tried for the olympic team when I was a lot younger and just wasn't up to par. Married with kids, and not enough time to get to the required level. Also right handed and left eyed, and no scopes allowed for recurve archery. Shooting compound with a release and scope was a lot easier but of course you are competing against archers with the same gear. I really enjoyed it but I have more fun travelling and playing music. less frustrating and you get free beer! Bob

Just do some testing with time/temperature and pressure first. Leather is thicker and more heat resistant than fabric but works great! It has cut my production time in half for all my lined products. Bob

FITA is still the governing body. Senior mens is still 90M and 70M on the large targets and 50M and 30M on the smaller. The bull on the larger targets is the size of a CD and if you are not getting 3-4 bulls an end (6 arrows) you are not competitive. The scope is so you can see where your arrow hit. There are 4 men on a target, so 24 arrows for each end and you have to be able to see the color of your nicks at 90M to know what you are doing. There are a lot of $2000 scopes on the field. A typical arrow costs $60-$70, so lots of metal detectors as well. I used to shoot recurve when I was younger but switched to Compound and competed in the Senior Olympics, and won gold for Arizona in 2009. My coach is one of the olympic coaches and I used to shoot 6 hours a day, 6 days a week at the PSE range in Tucson. I quit after winning gold and got my life back! Mostly used the time to get back to music and starting leather work! Again, nice work on the quiver! Bob

Bob

I have recently been using HeatnBond to laminate ink jet printed canvas and fabric to the flesh side of leather. I have has no issues with HeatNBond sticking to the fussy side of linings. I use a setting of 250F for 30 seconds on my press. For an Iron, I would follow their suggestions, maybe a bit higher and of course, don't skimp on the pressure. Bob

Я был в Москве в коммунистические времена. Я продал компьютеры Советам. У меня также были времена с КГБ. То были времена!

Я говорю Google по-русски! Actually studied Russian in High School. Big Mistake! Have been to Moscow 3 or 4 times in the Early 90s. Очень хорошая работа Bob

The problem with a T-shirt press is that the plates are not parallel and I am sure the press is not designed for the stresses that would be imposed. One thing you can do with that press is get hold of some heat and bond Set your press for 250F and use it for laminating lining. use the press for 3 or 4 seconds to tack the HnB to the lining (suede, thin veg tan or fabric) then peel the release paper, place on the base leather and press for 30 seconds. Been using this for 2 years and zero failures. Best affordable clicker would be a 12 ton (or even 6 ton) arbor press. Bob

Hadn't thought about that! Actually I topped the second coat with a piece of duct tape. The duct tape took off the Barge in one pull.

Yup, Started on Photoshop beta in the 80s.

I did almost the identical graphic in this tutorial the other day, which I downloaded via Google. First I drop it into Photoshop. Next I eliminate any background, usually white. If it is a .png it may already be on a transparent background. The I select the remaining image and create a new layer. I fill the layer with white and stroke it with a 3 pixel stroke. Could be wider, but 3 pixels is the width of a knife cut. Then I reverse the image and print it on standard paper. I apply it to the leather and either iron it (at least 260F) on or use my press or saturate the paper with alcohol and use a creaser. If it was sa a photograph, I would trace it on a new layer in photoshop and then print as above.

While blowing mesquite fronds off my xeriscape front yard (crushed rock) I stumbled into a small prickly pear cactus. I nailed both ankles with tiny hairlike spines. I tried tweezers but I can's get close enough to see them. Getting the side of my ankle next to my face is a talent I have long not been able to do, if ever. I noticed the barge cement on my shelf, pained a couple coats on the affected areas. Once dried I peeled the cement off and wala! All the spines went with it. If you live in the NE/SE/NW disregard this thread! Bob

Not sure what you mean? I just finished a piece and the lines of toner are obliterated by the cuts. I make my lines 3 pixels. BTW I like your idea of using the bevel first. I used small modeling spoon instead and made the actual beveling much easier, faster and smoother. Thanks! Always a new tweak in this business!

What I would do is test the standard dark brown against what you already have dyed. I ran both colors through Photoshop and Med Brown is really close to Pro Dark Brown. Here are the RGB numbers for both: Pro 135-61-32 Dark Brown Dye 136-63-31 Medium Brown Dye 82-30-17 Dark Brown If the color chart is accurate, then medium brown should give you an almost identical brown to the Pro Dark Brown. Bob

IMHO a walking foot machine is essential for leatherwork, unless you are doing garments or upholstery. There's a reason that 99% of leather workers use walking foot machines. My former CEO when I was based in London used to say that only the poor or uniformed can afford to buy twice. I learned that lesson long ago. I bought my 3200 when I really couldn't imagine I would need the capacity, but I also new I could recoup my investment if I decided to sell it, since walking foot machines are so much in demand. If you are a hobbyist, then stick with hand stitching, time spend is immaterial and it's cheap. If you intend to make items commercially, go with a 3200 or 4500 or similar machines from Cobra. Reliable, affordable and proven technology. Bob

Just a tip. I take my design, reverse print it on a laser printer then place it on the piece toner side down, saturate the design with acetone, then either use a creaser or even better a hot iron or press at 250F, which will transfer the toner onto the leather. I also use this on suede when someone wants some text on a piece or a signature. Bob

From Cowboy Bob's Wesite: The Cowboy CB2500 has feed dogs to move the material, against a fixed, or roller presser foot. This may leave visible tooth marks in the bottom layer of leather. These marks can usually be rubbed out with a smoothing tool, or hammered out by laying the back layer on a smooth hard surface, covering the top with a 10-12 oz piece of hard veg-tan leather, and tapping along the stitch line with a mallet or hammer. If this sounds like too much work, you may want to consider buying one of our triple feed machines, with a smooth feed dog and walking feet. IMHO, give it a miss!