VanDutch

I make my briefcases with a 10/11 oz (4mm) so it has some stiffness and retains shape etc.. For messenger bags I would use a softer lighter leather..

Welcome Ruby. Great to have another Auusie aboard. Excellent work on that saddle, looks fantastic... Enjoy this forum and make use of the enormous talent within.. Don't ever hold back on a question. Someone will have the answer.. cheers

Excellent job..Looks great. Lots of handstitching. How long did it take you to make?

guys. i have a similar problem but from my observations I think the culprit is the Center toe presser foot. On the bottom of the foot there is a ridge? and this causes marking of the leather especially changing direction on a corner etc. Not sure what the funtion/purpose of this ridge is?.. anyone know?.. can it be filed down smooth? I think they call it the Groover foot type. From the cobra site....The Center Foot is used with all 3 presser feet. It is also a groover foot, it will slightly groove the leather so the stitches will lie below the surface of the leather.

Hey screed.. Why don't you look into the Cobra.. Great machine and the guys at QLDsewing offer the best service etc... thoroughly recommend them and the cobra.

Fredo. The straps that the latch bottom attaches to looks like it is glued not stitched?, is that correct.. Or can i not see the stitches?

Hi. I agree with Leatherbaron on this. A pair of saddlebags with that quality and amount of work should be $1,000 minimum. He is obviously pleased with your work so far, but will he pay?.. Unfortunately you set a precedent with the first job, not charging enough. If he wants quality he will pay, otherwise just walk away.. cheers PS.. Great work..

Thanks guys..Ohio bag has one that i can see.. cheers

Hi. I'm sure you have already been to sydney. Did you check out NSW Leather.. They have the largest and best range of leather on the East Coast.. Only one would buying from in my opinion. Ask for Claude.

Hey guys.. This is an Ipad case and I really like the detailing on the outside namely the raised sections. I know the case is made from 2 layers of leather but how best to mould/insert the raised section without it bulging on the inside. Thanks in advance.

Anybody know a supplier of this type of over centre catch in Brass & stainless steel.

Doesn't matter one bit.. If people don't like copies let them spend $2K on the original...

Hey guys.. Just buy the actual tools (well priced) and buy your own soldering iron... Doesn't matter if they are a copy.. They look well made and machined.

I am also looking at a Laser and tomorrow I will be having some test pieces done to evaluate the finish quality etc. Will post some results.

Try this link. http://www.durabelt.com/beltlengthcalculator.php Use method #3. Measure the diameter of your pulleys and the center distances and using the calculator you will have the exact length you need.

If you're using a block plane and you want to skive say 3inch length. Using the block plane on the first half inch, then an inch etc... with each pass move back 1/2 inch of so.. the successive passes will give you a taper.

I just have the standard motor supplied with my cobra machine.

Great work as usual Caroline..

I disconnected the EPS on my machine today. Noticed that a few people had the same problem as me with the EPS namely the EPS causing an Extra stitch when not wanted. It doesn't do this all the time. Cleaned the EPS contacts etc.. No change. I now definitely feel I have more control now. Who else is experiencing this issue.

In reality a True servo/stepper motor has the most torque at 0 RPM. The type of servo motor fitted is most probably not a true servo because otherwise we would be unable to handwheel when the unit is switched on.. Anyone actually know more about the motors fitted?.. I have received several PM's from owners with similar issues. I do want to make it clear this discussion is not about the machines but rather the motors. Issue seems to be the motors do not have sufficient toque to punch through thick leather at very slow speeds without additional speed reduction.

Whilst we are on the subject of servos, here is a torque curve of a servo motor. Servos actually lose torque at higher RPM. Totally opposite to an induction motor.

Tom. I am talking about small servos & steppers that are used on CNC machines. Motors that are only $100-$200 each. some of these motors are only 6x4inch and they drive 500lb gantry's with minimal gearing. Tom, your gearing is much higher at 18:1. From my understanding the cobra's with the speed reducer only get 9:1.

Steve.. checked the shuttle..all clean. Also double checked the belts and pulleys.. All tight.

Thanks Steve.. I will do that.. Appreciate your help. Will let you know the outcome. BTW I love the machine. cheers

I must say that I have had great support and communication from Greg (Dealer) Qld Sewing Machines. Yesterday I delved further and decided to try something to eliminate belts etc. I removed the flywheel belt and the needle and free-wheeled the machine.. I found that after a number of turns the wheel grabbed(stopped) and required backing it a fraction before it would allow me to spin forward again. This is def not normal. Any ideas what this might be?