MikeG

Update: removing the roll pin allowed for adjustment of the stitch length forward and backward and the machine now reverses into the same holes, just as in UWE's video! SUCCESS!

I have the exact same issue with my vintage Juki LU-563. The stitch block cannot be moved because there is a roll pin adjacent to the adjusting screw. Moving to the right, I thought I could make the adjustment using the two screws marked in yellow, but no joy. I believe the only way to adjust this machine is to remove and discard the roll pin. At the present time, I have about 7 stitches/inch forward and about 4 per inch in reverse, so it definitely needs to be corrected. Hoping UWE can weigh in on this. Pic showing roll pin: Pic of Reverse bar screws: EDIT: My theory is Juki set the forward stitch length at the factory and locked it with the roll pin, with the intent of setting the reverse stitch to match using the limiters. UWE removed the stitch limit on the reverse and then adjusted the bar to get equal length stitches, with the result being a longer stitch length than came from the factory.

Awesome info, thanks all! I have ordered zipper feet to play with. I had figured leaving excess for the foot to walk on and trimming later would be the way to go -- thank you for confirming that. Again, thanks to all - what an awesome site for REAL information from folks that have experience from doing. Cheers to all and hope you all have a great Thanksgiving!

CDK - Thank you for the picture. It helps to know what I am looking for. I found this on ebay - not quite as narrow as yours, but it looks like it could be ground down a little if needed.

Thanks, Wiz! I have a Juki LU-563 I am just getting set up. I did purchase a Consew servo from Toledo -- I will contact them about feet for my application. No sir, I didn't update the picture. I really didn't know how to explain wanting to sew right up next to a vertical "wall" when making molded cases. To date it has always been hand stitching. I know manufacturers like leatherman must machine sew their cases, so I figured I would ask here. The answer seems to be a narrow or inline (or both ) foot setup will be the ticket.

Thanks for the responses. I have not had any experience with the different feet, so I appreciate these recommendations.

Thank you - I will look for piping feet

Is there a way to machine sew molded cases like shown in the image? I have seen some recent discussions on special feet. I am guessing that with the proper foot I could sew close to the raised portion of the case, perhaps leaving more leather for the foot to walk on and then trimming after sewing. Any hints on how to do this and/or any special feet needed would be greatly appreciated!

It cleaned up very well and runs smoothly. After a thorough clean, I blew air in it to dry it out and was rewarded with what looked like a full bag of sunflower seed hulls. Guess somebody was living inside it! I'm very happy with how it is turning out. Thanks all for the encouragement.

Thank you all for the input - that is wonderful news! Yes, I have the table, but it needs a thorough descaling, paint, and a new top. Bob, I will be ordering a Consew servo motor soon.

Got a great deal on a Juki LU-563. Essentially a one-owner machine that has spent the last 10-15 years in storage. It is tight and free, but it will obviously need to be oiled and checked out before being put into use. Most of the discussions on this forum seem to deal with damaged or broken machines. This one appears to be in remarkably good condition. My question is: Does the machine need to be completely disassembled? I have not yet found a service manual, and I'm hoping not to have to take it apart using a parts diagram. Thanks in advance for thoughts on how to proceed.

Thanks, Jay. Beast pretty much sums it up. You have to be doing a lot of pretty heavy work to need one of these. It's a great conversation starter, though :-)

Seems like that's what everyone is interested in.

Sorry I missed that. This thing is HEAVY. it will have to be picked up. Halfway between Nashville and Chattanooga

A niche machine for sure. I have owned it many years, but it has received very little use. It is upgraded with the hand wheel, roller guide and extra bobbins, needles, feet, accessories. It came with a clutch motor and speed reducer - I have installed a servo motor, but the clutch motor goes with it. I also have the original manuals and documentation for it. It is located in middle Tennessee. I am aging out of the leather business and it needs to go before I do. It was a very expensive ($3,500) machine before adding the motor, table, etc. - I will consider reasonable offers in the $2K range. I also have many, many craftool stamps, Leatherworker magazines, and miscellaneous items up for discussion as a package deal. I will not sell the tools prior to selling the stitcher. This is an overview of the machine. Note this video is for the Classic. Mine is a No. 9, which is the predecessor. Still a fine machine

Nice work as always. I'm sure he'll be pleased. "Midnight & Mahogany?"

It has taken me a long time to finally pull the trigger on a servo for my No. 9 stitcher. I bought this monster early in my leatherwork journey before understanding it is way beyond what I really needed for the work I have been doing. As a result, I have had a love/hate relationship with this machine since I have owned it and have not trusted it to sew any important work - in short, it has been a very expensive sculpture and conversation piece. It has even resisted multiple efforts to sell it, just sitting there quietly gloating as I hand sew projects. So after over a year of considering a servo, I finally decided to get the Family Sew servo with brushes from Bob at Toledo. I received my motor in just a few days and spent an afternoon installing it - It was not quite plug & play as the mount on the servo motor is smaller & I had to drill new holes in the table and then enlarge them to get the drive belt aligned nice & straight. Once done, it is a nice looking and clean install and runs quietly and true. With the old motor, this machine sounded like the hammers of hell - I named it Mjolnir, after Thor's hammer. With the new motor, it will stitch quietly as slow as I want. I have not sewn any projects with it yet, but I tested it on 3 layers of 8oz. stock and it punches perfect stitches at a very slow speed. In summary, I am very happy I made this purchase and I believe the old stitcher and I may finally become friends. Thanks to all on these forums, past and present. I have probably read every sewing machine and motor post on here - many multiple times. Good place to hang out!

Mike, your work never ceased to amaze (and humble) me. Thanks for showing!

Thanks -- I contacted Bob at Toledo and ordered the Family Sew. He sells it with a small pulley and I already have a speed reducer, so it should do the trick!!

I probably should have mentioned - I have a No. 9 Stitcher. It can be operated by hand, which is what I do mostly because I can control it better. So no issues with running it at snail speed.

So, I would like to tame my machine by installing a servo motor. I have scoured these boards and there seems to be a lot of anecdotal information, but I still have a lot of questions I can't answer. There is a fabulous thread about which machines work for specific applications (thanks WIZ), I sure wish we could come up with something similar for motors. So here goes. 1. Starting speed: 100 RPM seems to be best. I cannot find that specification even on manufacturer's websites. They all claim "slow starting speed," but again . . . 2. Brushless versus brushes: Almost all new motors are brushless. From this forum, I'm almost convinced a motor with brushes will have better low speed torque. Don't know if this is true. Family Sew apparently makes both types, but apparently only one vendor sells the one with brushes. i cannot find it listed anywhere else, which makes me wonder if it is obsolete? 3. There is some opinion on "crappy" motors - most of this is older info. Enduro gets a bad rap, don't know if the new ones have improved. Rex seems like it might be the same as Family Sew, again, only opinions on here. 4. 220V versus 110V. I can use either. mak I assume that sewing leather, I am like many if not most here. I would like to stitch at about 1 stitch per second. If that was the only speed, I would be happy. If I could control it between 1 stitch per second to 5 stitches per second, I would be ecstatic. So would the right move be to pick up a Rex on ebay and take a 2 year warranty thru square trade? I've reread this about 5 times, and I'm worried it sounds like a rant. It's not intended to be. It's just the more I read, the less I feel like I know.

So I finished the case. Requirements were "horizontal," "black," and "with fish." I hate black except for duty wear. How do you put embellishments on black? Anyway, I worked it through and I think it came out pretty good. Thanks for the help and encouragement!

Thanks, Richard. I have always made wood forms. Your idea of stacking leather scrap is brilliant! I'm going to look for some suitable clips on my next outing. I tend to overthink everything, I appreciate the confirmation. Now to get to work . . . .

I have an order for a horizontal phone case. I have never made one and I have a couple of concerns.; hoping someone can help me. 1. On vertical cases, I use a simple spring belt clip, but the ones I have are too long for a horizontal case. I am concerned shorter clips might not be secure enough. I've been thinking of some type of decorative clips that can be exposed on each end, or belt loops (perhaps a single wide belt loop) if the customer agrees. 2. If the phone case is horizontal, especially with belt loops, wouldn't this put torque on the phone? Seems like each end of the phone will need to be away from the body. This would have the tendency to flop around and/or hang on things. (construction worker) 3. Seems like with a horizontal phone case the flap would be annoying, since it is so long. Or the flap could be molded and "hinged" to the case with a thin piece. --- or the phone could come out the front and not the top, which seems to me would make a more secure holster. Perhaps I am overthinking this - I hope so. I've scouted around for examples but not seen anything other than the factory made

The search button in the top right corner is your friend. There is an amazing amount of information on this site and most anything you can think of has already been discussed. You probably want to look at the Billy 2Shews method. You can find a free demonstration of his technique on YouTube for transferring photocopies to leather. Other than that, you can do laser engraving, which gets expensive. Good luck and welcome aboard!