Frankqv

Simple to do Just cut slots in 1x6 Pt with 12" cutoff saw,1.5 " apart. Dividers are scrap PVC siding. 6" tall( inside) as wide as you want. On the ends I cut slots 3/4 in apart to accommodate big guns,45's,Blackhawks ect

I Made two of these for Moldgun storage.Each one has two layers,Each layer holds 14-18 molds

I have a Tippmann Areostith which I use exclusively for Holsters & Gun Belts. The areo has a pneumatic presser foot lift( it's up or down no in between)If you have your finger near the presser when you lift the foot ( like holding the top thread,to place under the presser once you raise it) ,it will drive your finger up through the needle, but you will only do that once,believe me.

Gump I purchased the machine about 2 weeks ago. It is a compound feed,6 to 24 stitch machine. Looks like a 101,103,104. The table the dealer gave me was an old Adler patcher table,it already had a speed reducer.Added Servo from Bob,clean up,tune up. Fiixed feed regulator with Bobs help, and it sews well. 138/138 and 138/207 on regular use, 4 oz to 14 oz total,veg tan. I use an aerostitch for Holster work,I use to change it over to 138/207 for walles,cases,time consuming. The 153 is a breeze for lighter weight products. Thanks for your suggestions

I recently put together a 153w ,once I got the right needles,138/207' bottom,top,sews like a dream. The table the fella threw in with the machine already had a speed reducer. Added a servo,and I was off and sewing. I've only sewed 207 since I've had it,could it do it day in and day out. It's 50+ years old and it sews effortlessly !I would say keep it lubed should not be a problem

Quote from Wikipedia World War II During World War II, the company suspended sewing machine production to take on government contracts for weapons manufacturing. Factories in the US supplied the American forces with Norden bomb sights and M1 Garand rifle receivers, while factories in Germany provided their armed forces with weapons.[7] In 1939, the company was given a production study by the government to draw plans and develop standard raw material sizes for building M1911A1 pistols. The following April 17, Singer was given an educational order of 500 units with serial numbers S800001 - S800500. The educational order was a program set up by the US Ordnance Board to teach companies without gun-making experience to manufacture weapons. After the 500 units were delivered to the government, the management decided to produce artillery and bomb sights. The pistol tooling and manufacturing machines were transferred to Remington Rand whilst some went to the Ithaca Gun Company. Original Singer pistols are collectable, and in excellent condition sell for $25,000 to $60,000 with the highest paid $80,000 at auction in 2002.[8]

That was the 153w SV 1911

GerryR I have a 1911 recoil spring,one of many pieces laying around,I'll do that tonight when i get back to the house.Thanks for the tip. I'll give you some feedback on the titanium coated needles when I get them. i pretty sure the titanium nitride surface is pretty hard,and the coefficient of friction is less. I came across the,which confirms hardness of TIN needles file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Empire/My%20Documents/Downloads/SCHMETZ_Special-coating-pdf.pdf TiN will have a coefficient of friction ranging from 0.4 to 0.9 versus itself (non-lubricated). Hard Chrome’s main attributes is its low coefficient of friction. Being the lowest over all other metals. Hard Chrome has a very low coefficient of friction, approx. one half that of Steel. The coefficient against Steel of 0.16 lubricated (0.21 dry), makes it ideally suited for an array of applications. .9 vs .21 is a pretty substantial difference in CV TIN will require substantially less energy to pierce material. Thanks for your help Gerry

I am able to tension OK to pull the knot up to 8-10 oz veg. Which spring did you use? I am using bonded nylon 138, the poly thread probably has less coefficient of friction,I'll try that.The higher c/v of the nylon thread is probably giving me more top tension I haven't been able to find any Schmetz 135x16 #24 needles,but I did order some #24 organ Titanium Coated needles,the Titanium should be slicker.Ill let you know

GerrR I noticed on this thread you have a 153w. I recently picked one up and it's performing perfectly. I have sewed using 138/207, but I have to use A 25 needle. If I use a 24 it frays the top thread ,have you experienced that. I sew Holsters with a Tippmann Aerostitch,usually,207/277 thread. The times I sewed 207/207 thread or 138/207 thread with the Areostitch I was able to use 24 needle. I did notice today I'm using Organ Needles on the 153w and schmetz needles on the Aerostitch. I wonder if the Needle Eye is finished better on the Schmitz needle. I also have a Ga5 I use for exclusively for stitching Belts with 277/207,I have to use 26 needle with that,where I use 25 on the Aerostitch for the same thread combo. Here again the GA5 organs,Aerostitch schmetz Have you experienced anything like this

Thanks MK1,got servos on all my machines

Thanks DC There are no obvious differences

Received the servo Motor from Bob today,It's a Brushed servo,has a better proportional control out of the box than the Consew Electronic servo I have on a GA-5.The Consew servo had to tune the electronic wiper to get a usable proportional control.Bobs servo Also has the speed potentiometer which makes for quick easy max speed settings. This makes a great setup. Sewed 138/138 easily,2-4layers of 4 oz,stitch length adjusted just fine,only had 135x17/23 needles.Tried some 138/207, at a slow speed it sewed OK,when I sewed to fast,frayed the thread,sure when I use 135x16/24or25's for 207 thread it will sew just fine. Sometimes you get lucky,with this machine I did, Singer 153 with Adler table(included speed reducer),clutch motor. 150.00 Servo Motor from Bob. 135.00 Misc penetrating oil,v belt. 20.00 My time to free it up,clean it up,mount head on Adler table,adjust Stitch length regulator ,time hook, Mount servo,stay at a Holiday Inn Express so I knew how to put all this together Priceless Total. 305.00 My thanks to Bob,for the Servo, and explaining the Stitch Regulator Still don't know what the sv19 is,seems to be the same spec as a 104 Compound,walking foot,needle feed.Presser 1/2" lift by hand,3/8 sewing capacity Stitch length 6-28 marking on regulator

Thanks Bob That's what it does

Bob Attached is a drawing of the feed adjust,the arrow points to a a slotted hole with a shouldered bolt in it,should this be locked down or allowed to move back and forth as shaft is rotated. Frank

I'll take the button out and see if it's dirty or the end snapped off. Adjusted the stitch length as per the page you sent me. I adjusted it to give between 5-12 SPI,also timed the hook,sews like a dream.The old clutch motor is on or off,but it does have a speed reducer so it's not out of control,no feathering ,look forward to getting the servo Thanks for all your help

Thanks Bob I appreciate the quick response,look forward to getting the servo I ordered from you. Frank

I picked up a 153wsv19 yesterday..You might have seen it on ebay recently. The dealer who is shutting down his shop really wants his stuff gone. It's an alternating,compound Needle ,it looks and seems to be the same as a 101 or 104. The needle system is 135x17. The machine had sat for 10 years, it turned over with a little effort,he had obviously dusted it off and hit it with some PB blaster or some other penetrating oil,the stitch length controller couldn't be turned, so the movement of needle/compound was very little.It came with a small table that an Adler patchier had been on. the table is all steel,with a reducer and a clutch motor,nice compact tidy little table. Got it home and i continued to free it up.Got everything freed up,including the stitch length controller,Mounted it on the table. The problem is the stitch length controller doesn't change anything when you turn it,the feed is about 1/16 of an inch, and won't change. The other problem with the machine is the Button that is suppose to lock the shaft when you reset the clutch seems to be broke off on the bottom and doesn't contact the Ratchet to lock the shaft when you depress it. Any suggestions as where to start(re: stitch length) would be appreciated. This forum has thousands of years of experience,which helps guys like me and others identify problems and deal with them.With a little luck,I can fix the problem,add a servo and be into the machine for less than 350.00

Darren,I'm going to look at the machine on Monday, from the pictures there are no attachments,it looks like a stock hook setup,anything I should look at in Particular

Is this sold?

There is a 153 wsv 19 available locally. How does that differ from a 102 or 103, or is it just represented wrong.

Thanks Darren The spring was to long, As you tightened ,it bowed the middle that tensions. A little grind and now as you tighten it tensions Thanks again

I'll give you a call next week Bob

Thanks Bob,just interested to know what it is,haven't seen anything like it

I was practically given, a Never been used GA 5. When I went to set it up to sew 207/277 bottom top for sewing Belts,the tension screw had no affect on the tension. I had to take off the spring piece and give it a bend on the ends,that allowed me to set the tension. Also the tab that holds the tension screw from getting loose stuck out to far and was catching the bobbin thread when th shuttle rotated. Fixed all that runs good. My question is,is that common ,with the number of 45ks built over the years the system must be proven. I'm pretty sure they were set up to do a task and rarely changed.Was this one just a non QA'ed Chinese piece. I don't want to fight it when I switch between 277 and 346 for the top I have an Aerostitch I use for holsters and it has a lock screw to lock the tension screw.The shuttle looks like the 45k shuttle,does anyone know if it would fit the GA5'takes the long Bobbin Any comments woul be appreciated