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Frankqv

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Everything posted by Frankqv

  1. The collars are fairly loose fitting,they probably work great with Bronze Dies as the Bronze Die ID's are machine with a couple of thou clearance. The Collars will retain the Bunkhouse dies,but they won't keep them true to the shaft.The Flange bushing only have a couple of thou clearance to the shaft so they will keep the rolls true to the shaft.
  2. The one in the Beiler Catalog is similar to this one. Price is the same . http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Embossing-Machine-NEW-Custom-made-in-USA-/271942718685?hash=item3f510c94dd the Bunkhouse one is here http://www.bunkhousetools.com/Embossing_Machine.php
  3. Beilers Supply 717-768-0174 Page 48 5/8x3/8 tuck loop nickel plate 49502 $.06 ea./brass plate 49512 $.06 ea. 5/8x1/2 tuck loop nickel plate 49521 $.06 ea./brass plate 49522 $.06 ea. I use these for small dog collars(5/8") I purchase 100 at a time,knock a penny a pic off or $5.00/100
  4. I purchased a Bunkhouse tools leather embosser about a year ago along with a few roll dies. Been very happy with the unit overall,great value and good results. Bunkhouse has a multitude of roll dies,some very unique.These dies are some sort of polyester,and come in various diameters,depending on the pattern. Prior to buying the machine I was lucky to purchase about 6 Tandy Brass/Bronze rolls from an estate sale. I favored using the bronze dies as they fit the shaft tighter and I was able to keep the pattern centered quite easily.The poly dies seem to run out a little and keeping the pattern was hit and miss, I added a 1/2hp 60rpm gear motor,with a 6 to 1 final drive (Final speed 10 RPM),and a foot switch. By having two hands to guide the piece I was able to get great results with the poly dies. Recently I added a 1" flange Bronze bush to either side of the Bunkhouse dies,that alleviated all the wobble.Any body that has one of these might consider purchasing a couple of Flanged Bronze Bushings 1" ID x 1.25" OD x 3/4 L,or similar. The Bushes are only used for the Bunkhouse Dies,the Brass/Bronze style dies don't need them. Now that the wobble is gone I intend to purchase additional dies from bunkhouse
  5. If you happen to find an Aerostich (They are getting to be pretty rare,still parts available from Tippmann)Try to find one with the needle down Bar,this allow you to bring the needle down and line up your stitch,before you begin stiching.The needle down also comes with reverse which is nice to have. I use an Aerostich for holsters and heavy tack Needle down Page 12 http://www.tippmannindustrial.com/images/pdf/Manual-Aero1.pdf You do need a compressor with the Aerostich,it does sew 3/4" effortlessly
  6. Beilers, $130.00 per 1k. Phone 717-768-0174. Commercial accounts only
  7. Two things 1) Is your bobbin set to tight.The knot is formed with a relationship between the bobbin ,top tension,more tension,more friction (chafing) going through the needle. 2) Is the fiberglass thread lubed. Poly and nylon bonded threads are pre lubed,The bigger the needle,larger hole,less friction when needle is coming up in the material,creating the knot.Remember the takeup lever is coming at at the same time which s actually tensioning the thread going through the needle,which allows the thread to knot as the needle comes up.By going up a needle size you confirmed it's chafing at the needle ,as you added more thickness you increased the friction,so you went up one more needle size,bigger hole less friction. A little lube will go a long way in this instance. Maybe this will help http://www.wflake.com/thread/E-glass%20R783-Series.pdf http://www.claremontcorporation.com/claretex-sewing-thread-fiberglass-yarns/ I went to titanium needles on my singer 153 and was able to sew all thread sizes withe a 1-2 size smaller needle. The nitrided Titanium is about 2 times slicker than chrome steel. Maybe?This shows advantages of titanium http://www.superiorthreads.com/education/infographics/superior-needle/
  8. It's not the breaking strength of the thread,it's the thread diameter,the coefficient of friction going through the needle,
  9. Ridgewood, Thread went quiet,Just checking if you still have the pres,i'm in southwest Florida (Sarasota) thanks frank
  10. Geneva,thanks for your two cents.i'm pretty sure I would rather have an operational Landis
  11. Does anyone have experience with this model splitter (Now listed on ebay). And where would you get a blade for it,what would the cost of the blade be. Thanks Frank
  12. Got it today, thanks,they fit and work great
  13. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. Took apart the top feed mechanism,heli coiled a few questionable thread sets ,that tightened up the whole top feed mechanism. Should get the feet from Germany tomorrow,looking forward to getting them. I still have to braze the worn needle hole in the needle plate. The stand is a design I've been working on. 2x4's planed and sanded,glued and screwed,strong as a brick sh- - house, I'll build a few guards for the drive side.The height is good for seated barstool height or standing. Building another one for my 153wsv46.
  14. I have the machine up running and tuned. Gave it a paint job,looking for decals,or I might get the sing guy behind my shop to do them,he does gold leaf for the Firetrucks. This wood table is mobile and has storage for a couple of Plano Containers to hold Needles,Feet ect. Servo with reducer.The kids I mentor love it,easy to use
  15. Thanks EVO, I will try to track down some parts for you
  16. Thank you Jimi,that's over and above, I really appreciate it.
  17. Thanks JimiNice PDF to go with the machine,great discription. That sales brochure was aimed at manufacturers,touting capabilities of the machine for particular industries.The picture shows a mechanism above the faceplate,that my machine doesn't have. My machine has a thread guide leading to the primary tensioner,look at my pictures above.
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