robert

Hi Wolf Welcome - The Tandy store in Austin hosts the longhorn trail leather guild - you might check it out. I live in Pflugerville (for you non-central Texans, P-ville is a suburb of Austin). robert

Well... I submitted two entries, but shoot this is for fun, not for the prizes. I have no problem with keeping it open if it gets more folks in - honestly, my only reason for wanting it closed would be to see what everybody did! I enjoyed it and want to encourage participation, so Clay, whatever you think makes it a sucessful contest, I support. robert

i use the Tandy pigskin splits for lining on a lot of stuff... cheap and looks nice i think. i dont have a problem with contact cement bleeding through. and its thin enough and has enough stretch that it works well with or folds.

Fascinating! Thanks for posting this... and I thought leatherwork took patience!

Neat post, thanks. I am not a saddle maker, but i like to study the stamping - particularly the old styles. The mother hubbard from alberta has an interesting flower that I've never seen before - anybody know if that is that a flower that was used in that region? The Brown saddles both use a meander or "carlos" border, which Big Bend seems to use often. I've studied pictures of Harwood saddles before and tried to mimic the stamping style, with varying degrees of sucess. I couldn't several of the links to work, but if anybody else has that problem, just copy the item number into the ebay search box and they come right up.

I have use a number of magnesium plates for a number of projects - they are definitely economical. One example - - I had an order for a bunch of checkbooks for a wedding, and got a plate with the couple's names and the date (maybe 1.5" by 2" or so). I dont remember the exact price, but seems like it was $15 or so (probably 4 years ago). And... my maker stamps are magnesium plates! The downside is that they dont stamp really deep (since they're for embossing), but the upside is they are cheap... i bought a couple in two sizes a few years ago as a "short-term" solution, but they have worked well and i have never replaced them. The place i buy them ususally mounts the plates on a wooden block, but for the maker stamps i asked them to leave off the blocks, and I epoxied them to 1/4 steel plate. I set the plate down on my leather, then use a bolt (head down) as my "handle".... i actually epoxied the bolt on but it didnt stay, but now i just hold it firmly...which works. For the checkbooks or other plates that have the wooden block, i use a press to emboss them. Since they dont stamp deep, you have to be careful or the edges of the mounting block will leave an impression on your leather, but other than that, they have worked well for me. I have bought mine here: http://www.capitolengraving.com/ . robert

whether stainless or zinc, mine leave a black stain until i get all the metal dust out of the lining and off the tool (it is essentially the same thing as when you strop your knife blade - you have to get the metal off or it will stain). I have not had a tool that just kept doing that though, even after it had been stamped a number of times. I am at a loss - my only suggestion would be to stamp it a bunch (walking it around your scrap)... but maybe you already did that... maybe some other folks can chime in... my zinc tools will get corrosion on them and i have to stamp them on some scrap if they havnt been used in a while - that sounds like the same as your lifter.

Nice leaf, John - thanks.... I tooled it once this afternoon, and had so much fun I tooled it again in a different style. So far i am up to 4 entries for the contest - this is good practice and is fun.

[/font] Making your own tools 12-8-07 Tools I used for this project Bench grinder Mill file Coarse emery cloth Medium emery cloth 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper Rag wheel on bench grinder, with Ryobi stainless polishing compound Rag wheel on hand held drill with white rouge Brownells checkering file – 75 Lines per inch Hacksaw (to cut the threads off) Magnifying glasses I work on tools away from my leather bench… you don't want metal filings on your bench or on your leather. For this project, I am going to make a Sheridan style thumbprint. Pear shaders and Thumbprints are easiest to make because they relatively easy, and I, for one, like to have a variety – different sizes, long lined, cross lined, cross hatched, etc., and if they are slightly different shapes, so much the better. Thumbprints have a flatter bottom and are not generally walked like a pearshader, so this particular tool is pretty flat, but make it any way that suits you. Also, many thumbprints don't taper to a point on the end, and are used essentially as two different tools – each end is a different size and can be used as needed. However, I like having a more tapered end that will fit into the end of my "stickers" or "vines", whatever you call them. Leaf liners and center liners are easy too – they look flat on the face but have a slight curvature. Bevelers have to be shaped right or they leave tracks, and you want you different size bevellers to have the same angle, so they are a little tougher, but not too bad. For the thumbprint in this project, the general process I followed is: 1. I use stainless steel bolts, at least 5.5 inches long (I have started using 6"). I typically use 3 sizes – ¼, 5/16, and 3/8. The smaller ones are less than $2 each, and the larger are just over $2. You can use regular bolts or nails or anything, just check for corrosion before you use it – just stamp it on some scrap. I used regular zinc covered bolts for a while, and they work just fine – I have several that are part of my regularly used tools. 2. Leave the bolt threads on – you can use that to clamp in your vise while you work, then saw them off. I like tools with a final length of either 4.25" or 4.5" long. 3. Draw the rough shape of your tool on the bolt head with a Sharpie. This gives you a rough idea of how much metal to remove on a grinder before you get to the more detailed work. 4. Use a grinder to rough out the outside shape – I do this very rough. I don't try to do any curvature with a grinder (for example, I don't do the bottom of a shader with the grinder). Picture 1 is the tool and the impression when I finish with the grinder. Note it is very rough, and large. The grinder is just for bulk metal removal… but it takes too much off too fast to be used for detail work. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4390.jpg 5. Once you have the rough shape, use a mill file to give you tool shape. I find it easiest to have a finished tool to compare to as I go. Many tools have subtle curves that you don't really notice until you try to make your own. Stamp your new tool into test leather often to make sure you are getting the shape you want. Note the second impression – it is a little smaller, and has a little more shape. This is about the point I stop using the file and go to emory cloth. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4394.jpg 6. Continue to refine the shape. Once you are happy with the rough shape, use coarse emory cloth to put the final shape to it. Impression #3 is about the point at which I stopped using the coarse emory cloth. The scrap in the picture is to give you an idea of how often I am testing the stamp as I go. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4395.jpg 7. Continue to refine the shape - use medium emory cloth then 600 grit to work out the grinder and file marks. Impression #4 is taken while I was using the medium emory cloth. See how much smaller the stamp is getting? Don't take too much off with the grinder… it is easy to make a tool smaller, but you can't make it larger! http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4396.jpg 8. At this point, I will clean up the tool and take it to my bench and do some testing with it. Typically, that leads me back to step 6 with the coarse emory cloth. Repeat as many times as necessary (hey, nobody said this was simple J). Impression #5 is taken while I was working with the 600 grit paper in the testing stage. See on the face of the tool – you can see very fine marks that I haven't worked out yet – I will work those out too. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4398.jpg 9. Once you like the shape, use 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper to put a nice polish on it. Then I put the smooth tool to use and make sure it walks if it is a walking tool, and just generally make sure it is going to work. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4399.jpg 6. Then polish with a rag wheel on a bench grinder (I use rouge for stainless first, followed by a different wheel with white rouge on it). Then it is time for the lining tool. On this tool, I am using a 75 LPI file from Brownells (www.brownells.com). I try to get one end of the tool face, then line it up and get the other end of the tool face. I use magnifying glasses to get the lines lined up after I have run the file across the face once. It is tough to line them up, and takes practice. Don't be afraid to file off the lines and start again. The good news is that, even it isn't perfect, nobody will notice on your leather! I studied one of my good tools from a custom maker under a magnifying glass, and the lines aren't perfect, but you can't tell that in the stamp impression. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4400.jpg 7. Then back to the scrap, to test some more now that the lining is done. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4402.jpg 8. Once you are happy with it, take a fine brush and some household cleaner (even a tooth brush) and clean out any filings, and clean up the metal dust. Then cut the tool to the right length with a hacksaw and clean up the rough end. Do some final polishing, then you have your finished tool! http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4403.jpg 9. Here are a few tools I have made. There are a couple of leaf liners, a small and a medium thumbprint, a set of fine bevelers (75 LPI) and a set of coarser bevelers (50 LPI), and a veiner. http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n44/robertw_2006/IMG_4404.jpg I will probably put these tools on E-bay over time, so if anybody wants any of them, let me know. Hope this is helpful. Have fun… jump in and start filing – that's the best way to learn.

I am happy to write up something on how i make my tools... i have pretty simple equipment (bench grinder, dremel, files), but no lathe, and I still experiment with different ways to do things, so no two tools are alike. Mine are not as nice as ghostryder's, so hopefully he and others can write up something as well. Mine are improving, but anything i say or write is intended to get you started, and hopefully you can take it and improve on it. If several people write something, we will all learn more... John D - I buy SS bolts for about $2 each or less so they are cheaper than new craftools. Some of the tools are made from the head of the bolt, but if the tool head is smaller than the diamater of the bolt, i just saw the head off (a small beveler for example). Duke, the world of leathercraft would not be where it is without the mass produced tools by Tandy. If people are happy with their hobby, the retail stores will get their share of the business. So encouraging crafters to make their own tools, modify mass production tools, etc will ultimately benefit the craft, which benefits everyone in the business.

Welcome, and nice work. I would enjoy some more pics of your stamping - looks really sharp. robert

I dont have the book yet, but will soon. I just wanted to reiterate the comments about what a great fellow Pete is. Some years ago, he had a short article in the LC&SJ. I had a question on the pattern and got his address from the magazine and wrote him a letter. A few weeks later I received a big envelope with patterns, notes, etc. That started a friendship that lasts to this day. Over the years, I have sent him patterns and even scans of my work and he has marked them up for me with suggestions and sent them back. He is truly a gentleman in the very best sense of the word. So... cant wait to get the book!

Rneel, you asked for critiques... I always worry that "critique my work" means to post only positive critiques, so let me start of by saying that there ain't nothing shabby about any of your work! The construction looks excellent - those saddlebags look excellent - nicely slicked edges, great stitching... Construction is my weakest area of leathercraft so I am always amazed at those of you who put things together well (and that's why I tool things that require minimal construction!). Here are a few thoughts on the tooling for your consideration. - on the holster, try to get your pear shading lines to flow towards and down your leaf center line. Everthing should flow to a focal point. See how your decorative cuts flow to and down the centerline? Your long lined shader should do the same - everthing should have "flow" (that is one thing that makes lined shaders harder to use than crosshatch shaders). Same thing on the pedals of the flowers on the belt - the shading should flow to the focal point, which in this case is the flower center. - Bargrounding a large area, such as the space across the top of the holster is very hard - bargrounding seems to work best in small areas... you could move that top leaf on the holster up just a bit and break that large area into multiple small ones. Just a thought. Your acorns look great. I really like the caps - the "gridline" cutting makes them pop out. Nice work, thanks for sharing. Hope my thoughts are constructive. robert

Yeah, i agree with Gunfighter48 - see what other companies are selling similar rigs for, just to get a range. When I first started trying to price stuff, I found 4-5 companies that sold the same or similar sort of stuff and created a grid. That way I at least knew if I was over or under. I intentionally priced things low for years to generate work - I figured folks were paying me to practice. Of course, this is my hobby, which makes a huge difference.

Too cool! My compliments to Clay and all the people that came up with this idea. I hope lots of folks will play. I am headed to the kitchen table to come up with a pattern, then to the bench to get started!

Very nice!

I have a boss and like it. I use the flatbed attachement for anything flat - notebooks, checkbook covers, etc, - you may want to consider that. i have the center presser foot but rarely use it. i agree with getting a number of extra bobbins and needles. I mounted mine with lag screws on a 2X8 board, about 18 inches long. Then is use c-clamps to clamp it to my workbench. I have limted space, so when I need to, i remove the boss for more room. Works fine.

Danny Marlin doesnt seem to have a website, but if you google him, there are some suppliers. Dont know if Hidecrafter still sells them, but thats were I got mine. Regarding tools, there are a number of good tool makers... somebody listed them on another post a few weeks ago - i cant find the link, but the list is below. They are all good, and the old craftools are sometimes just as good. Some of it depends on the style of tooling - Barry King's tools are generally geared towards Sheridan style tooling, while some others are not... not that they cant be used in different styles, but for example, Barry makes steep angled bevelers, while Hackbarth makes flatter beverers - both are great tools, it just depends on what you like. Al Stohlman never made tools under his name (except the RBS tools that sold to Craftool in the 50's i think?). Stohlman was the S in RBS. Those tools are essentially the same as the early craftools. Early craftools are good tools, and still pretty widely available on ebay. Gore tools show up on ebay every now and again - those are good also. The tools I use includes lots of Barry Kings, a few Chuck Smith, several Gore, some RBS, some Craftools, some homemade, and a few from the oldtimers - one each from Don King, Walter Fay and McMillen.... All are good tools. So I don't know that any particular maker has the "elite" tools to have, but certainly there are some good ones... Mostly, try to get good tools, but dont break the bank doing it - get what you can, upgrade when you can. tool makers Jeremiah Watt Vandyke Ranch HC1, Box 34 Coalinga, CA 93210 559-935-2172 email http://www.ranch2arena.com Barry King 1751Terra Avenue Sheridan, WY 82801 307-672-5657 email view his catalog http://montanaleather.com/barrykingtools.htm Robert Beard 36 Road 5243 Farmington, NM87401-1541 email http://robertbeardtools.com Wayne Jueschke Box 1895 Elko, Nevada 89803 775-738-4885 Ellis Barnes Gomph-Hackbarth Tools (The Belt Company) 10754 Martineau Rd N Elfrida, AZ 85610 Phone: 520-642-3891 Chuck Smith Tools PO Box 2647 Valley Center, CA 92082 Phone: 760-749-5755 Fax: 760-749-5355 Website: http://www.leathercrafttools.com email

Has anybody used the Henley beader blades? I have a ceramic beader blade from Tandy, but it leaves a square top on the bead, and I think that "good" beader blades round the top. My regular blades are Henleys and are excellent, so I am wondering if anybody has experience with their beader. Or any other suggestions for good beader blades? robert

Wow! that's nice. I like that the stamp doesnt have an "edge" so it stamps deep.

Ditto to what Bruce said. I have 2 Barry Kings that I paid $40 or $45 for and were well worth the money. One of them he customized a bit (I wanted it made it just a bit longer than his stock one), and either didnt charge extra, or only charged a couple bucks extra.

Hi Cecil.. not sure i can explain, but maybe a pic along with the words will help. the end without the keeper laces into the keeper, on the back side. then the front 3/4" billets buckle together. Does this help?

Hey, I was actually at that ribbon cutting! Its a huge plant - very progressive. But... it still smells like cow manure... and they still have flies and dust... The wind was blowing hard that day, and the tents and all the bbq were downwind... I found myself trying to make sure I didn't lick my lips. ugg. But its a neat plant - and will help the dairy guys around there. And provide energy and jobs... all good things. And they did it with almost no government help, which is a great thing since most renewable energy exists substantially on government subsidies and tax credits.

Thanks all for the nice comments. Mike, the stamp is a Barry King. It appears to be a size 1.25 based on his latest catalog, but I wouldn't swear to that, as the size isnt marked on the stamp. I have two of his baskets - they are soooo clean and nice - I quit using any of my tandy basket stamps once I got these. Thanks for the comment on the knife work - an old saddlemaker in the area did that on his belts, and I just copied the idea. It adds a nice touch, and distinguishes the belt as hand crafted. Ryan, i will give your method a try - since your only "resist" is oil, does it turn out significantly darker? Russ, thanks for posting that tutorial in basketstamping - that is how i do it, except i dont use a protractor - i just sort of eyeball it. I learned that method from Chan Geer and it works really well.

it's right - the back layer of the other end laces through the keeper on the backside. the buckle set will have silver keepers for the 3/4" billet... does that make sense? thanks for the nice comments!