steveh

Mulefool, I have found even with better quality steel beader blades the first cut is fairly flat, but if you go back over it and burnish a little deeper with blade you get the nice round appearence you desire. Steve

Greg, I had never heard of rosecrans, was that and indivdual or a company, when where they in bussiness, what type of tools did they mfg.? Thank You Steve

Keith, I had some questions about the rawhide cheyenne roll filler? When you cut the rawhide to shape is in semi moist state so that you can shape it? When nailing the rawhide to the top of cantel do you mean the very top?, can that be nailed with out splitting to wood?What about sewing the binding, is the rawhide still in a semi soft form to get the awl thru? Thank You , Steve

I think that this is what Keith is talking about, with polished domed rivets. I polish the rivet head with cloth wheel loaded with red rouge. I place a piece of chap leather on the anvil and set the rivet. Then dome the rivet with a domer tool after it is installed in the leather.

I use a size 110/18 , system 34 lr, 16x2 rtw , you can get these needles from many sources , randall, ferdco, just about any industrial sewing machine supply. I use 69 and 99 threads size, and can not imagine going much larger ,it is small machine for light work, .hope that helps. Steve

Thank You, Johanna, for the information, that shuold help alot. Steve

I do not know that much about computers, but the pictures that are sent on this forum that are for example, 2000x1000 are way to large I can only see a portion of the photo on the screen, Those photos that are for example 640x 500 work out great . Can someone with the computer knowledge explain how you reduce the size to our readers. Thanks, Steve

I stamp cheyenne roll bindings after they are sewn on the cantel. I use 9 to 10 oz thickness firm leather, middle of the hide above the belly..I establish border lines with dividers.Then layout a scroll pattern ,adding casing moisture as needed,cut it with a swivel knife, bevel, tool ,and background. . For a basket stamp I find center line between my border cuts, the center line changes as it narrows down where the cantel meets the seat, I take a stylus and blend the center line as it tapers down to the seat by eye. When you have a center line you layout you basket stamp at the correct angle just like stamping a belt. If you have a stout cantle filler it is not a real issue to stamp, it can be a little bouncey but you just have work with it. Steve

If they are copper #9 rivets, you can take a ball burr in a die grinder and grind the peened end of the rivet off, go slowly as this will produce heat that can burn the leather. If they are a brass jiffy rivet , I have removed them by getting a pair off end nips under the head and pulling them apart. Hope this helps

Randy, McMillen tool is still in bussiness,the #560 stamp can be made. There phone Number 573-374-7880 Steve

Randy, Reguarding that #580 stamp. I looked in my Mcmillen Saddle stamp catalog which I believe was in bussiness in KC Missouri in 1936. The 580 stamp is a spade, but the #560 looks very similiar to what I can see on your saddle, a very geometric 25 petal flower 5/8 " diameter, with about 1/8 inch center. It may be that they miss read 6 as an 8 ? Steve

Randy, I have a reprint of r t Frazier catalog, it is not dated, but looks like the 1920 to 1930 era ,judging by the type of gear forsale.On Page 43 there is saddle that looks like yours. The number is 2683, the price was 53.50, the saddle is a citizen iron horn tree, with fourteen inch swell fork. the skirt liners are bark tanned wool skin.It came with narrow brass bound stirrups.The stamping and style is just like yours. It looks like someone replaced the skirt liners judging by the irregular stitch that paralels the factory stitch.I would imagine someone on this forum has more history on th R T Frazier co. Steve

try www.cambell-bosworth.com they should be able to help you. They are located in Texas.

On your small radius scallops use a half round end punch, for larger circles and curves use a round knife. These half round shaped knives are designed for cutting leather. They are awkward to use at first.Seek out someone in your area to show how to use one would be benificial.

What is exaltic acid? What does it do to leather and why do you do this?

any needle from a needle and awl machine like a landis or randall chucked up in an awl handle will work. try cambell-bosworth, ferdco, weaver to name a few places that should have them.

These tools do look very similar and there sizes are the same 1/8x1/4, I dont have these tools but the difference may be one is smooth and the other is checkerd. Small undercut bevelers are used on scallops on leaves and flowers, and lightly pushed up to raise the petals. Larger undercut bevelers are used on the inside radius of scroll work. Hope this helps some.

www.harpermfg.com

Steve, Thanks for the information, I already use a buchman knife, it is my knife of choice. Steveh

JR, You mentioned your opinions on casing leather, I would like to here more about that. I case for forming gullets ,fork covers, seats, cantel bindings, getting the stretch out of stirrup leathers. I tool fairly dry though, and just add moisture as needed with a sponge or spay bottle.Maybe you could start a new thread on this subject. Thanks Steve

I believe these head knives where oringally made by a maker in montana, by the name of Lineman, not sure on the spelling, I think he sold the company name to another maker. I understand they where real good round knives.Dont know if they are made anymore.

Very high quality work. very nice decoritive cuts on bucking rolls and cantel binding, looks very challenging to do.Your tooling is excellent, excellent scroll work, excellent under and overlaps of the vines at the transition points, with very little background work. what type off tree?, what kind of leather? steve

18 is the needle size, it determines hole size and thread size. 18 is fairly small and you would more than likely use a 69 thread size. On your needle box there should be the needle system and some abbreaviations of the needle type.

There are many needle types depending on the application. example: wedge, left twist, diamond,triangle ect. they all give a different stitch appearence. I use a triangle point (tri) and trench my work and get a straight stitch.