Johanna

Hey, David- we're "neighbors"! I'm about 90 miles north of you, near St. Marys. Will you give me ride in the Spring? Though it seems a shame to cover up such pretty seats with a behind. Thanks for sharing, and I'm looking forward to seeing more of your work. If you ever want to get your stuff off of photobucket and have a permanent gallery to upload pics to, let me know. (This offer is good for any leatherworker!) Johanna

And if anyone cares, this is how it looks for January so far... Search engine spiders are not included in visitors or hit statistics. Johanna

[attachment=603:attachment Hi, Hobby! We have Japan! These are the stats for the month of December 2006. January's are knocking my socks off. Johanna

Okay, Jim, just remember, you asked for it! I've got a bunch of them in a looseleaf folder. I'm counting on the members here to help me make the necessary additions and corrections so that I'm not spreading bad leatherworking info on the Internet. Help me out, guys! Johanna

http://www.cowsarecool.com/default.asp This site just goes on and on with misinformed and ridiculous accusations...when I first looked at the site, I thought it was a parody. Sadly, in their mission to "educate" us, they prove they are ignorant of leather and how farmers and ranchers care for their animals. The suggestion to switch to vinyl shoes should be taken by all these bandwagon zealots, and they should all get athletes' foot, just for not taking the time to get real facts, and spreading lies and propaganda. I have never been to a slaughterhouse and seen cows skinned alive. And we all know this is crap: Good grief, someone should explain economics and standard slaughter procedures to these folks...but that might be beyond their grasp. Johanna

Don't sell yourself short, Freak! I like your work, too. The teens are going crazy over those kind of wristbands right now. I swear you could stamp "obey your parents" on them, and they would still sell! The Goth crowd likes black with maybe chrome spots or spikes. The bikers call them "property bracelets" and they stamp names into them. I understand if you wear the name facing you, you "belong" to the named person. Away from you, and you want to. I have to sut the whole thing out of one piece of leather (not rivet the straps on) because I am allergic to the metal in the nickel rivets, and when they touch my skin, I get a rash. I can see where your method would be more efficient (less waste). If you did a show, though, you could have them ready to go and then fit the straps to order. Pop on the rivets and done, custom fit. I have a friend in Charleston, SC who welds inside ship hulls in dry dock that have to be 120 degrees. His arms are scarred from sparks and burns, and he hardly notices them. When I see him, I want to coat him with Neosporin and bandage him. I never thought of making him a leather armband, though I have made dozens for archers and LARP folks. Thanks for the idea, Freak- now, if I can get a tape measure around his forearms without a bunch of questions...lol Thanks for sharing! Johanna

They shouldn't animate in the selection area, but they should when added into a post. The "names" of the smileys are pretty random. I collected them from here and there, and didn't change very many of the names, unless two smileys had the same one, or they were badly titled. (In responding emails the name shows, not the smiley). In the control panel, you can even choose not to view smileys and/or avatars if you want (helpful for people with slow or expensive internet connections.) By the way, Alex, your avatar is one of my favorites. Johanna

John Henry typed this on a typewriter for a handout because we were doing so many holster classes in Macon. (In Georgia, they like their guns!) I scanned the pages, used some OCR software and have bleeding eyes from the editing- so blame any typos on me. I'm interested to know if you folks do about the same as he did, or what you do differently? Is there anything you like about this, or disagree with? I'm asking because I have dozens of workshops like this from our archives, and if y'all really want to see them, I will post them. I tried to clean up the formatting some, but he always was a meticulous outliner. Looking through all this other stuff of his tonight was bittersweet because I miss him, and it's almost the anniversary of when he died, six years ago. Here it is, Artifax Custom Leather's Holster Making Workshop. Holster Workshop by John Henry (written perhaps 1997?) Macon, Ga. Artifax Custom Leather Georgia Leathercrafters' Guild Materials Required: Leather Contact Cement Mallet Sinew 2 - 3/0 Harness NeedIes Chisel Wing Dividers Super Shears Dot Snaps Pencil Setter Skiving Knife or X-acto Two General Misconceptions.Heavy Leather No need for 9/1 0 oz. leather since the weight of the pistol is suspended from belt. The holster is only to make a pocket to accomplish this suspension. Using the equivalent of 6/8 oz. leather~ including the lining if one is used. Lining Holsters - These give the holster a more finished appearance since the inside is smoother. The lining is only a cosmetic treatment. Over the years I have come to some of my own conclusions about lining leathers. This should be avoided because the nap of the suede that makes it feel so rich increases its surface area, so it is more susceptible to absorbing moisture from the air. This can have two basic effects: 1.) Moisture can increase possibility of rust. 2.) Moisture can trap dust and sand which will act as a fine abrasive against the pistol's metal, similar to a very fine emery cloth. Chrome tanned leather- Chromium salts used in the tanning process can and do react with the bluing agents used on firearms, causing the appearance of surface rust. These should be avoided. 1.) Most garment type leathers, including suedes, are chrome tanned. These can usually be identified by a gray colored "core" area of the leather that will show in a cut area, if the leather is heavy enough for it to be easily seen. Vegetable Tanned Leather This is the only leather that I've found suitable for linings because it doesn't appear to have the dust retention on suedes, or the chemical reaction of chrome tanned. Vegetable tanned leather is made to accept moisture readily, but this is halted by proper sealing of the surface. I use Leather Balm or Carnuba Creme for this. Often I don't even line the holster. If the leather that I'm using has a fine flesh side, I just use water to burnish this well, after dyeing, to give the interior a smooth, glossy look. End Plugs These are pieces sewn into the muzzle end of a holster to close it. I don't generally use them because they can hold debris and moisture. Leather Selection. A.) First decide if the holster is to be lined or not. This will determine how finely grained the flesh side of the leather needs to be. 1.) If lined, the nap isn't too important, but be sure that the section of the piece that you wiII use is blemish free; no slices or thin spots. 2.) If unlined~ choose a piece that has the tightest nap that you can find in addition to minimal blemishes. B.) If the holster is to be lined, choose the lining and leather at the same time so that you can be sure to get pieces that will total the desired weight when laminated. If, for example, you want 8 oz. leather, either get a piece of 4 oz. that's twice the size you need, or a nice 6 oz. and a 2 oz. like calf. Be sure that both pieces are as blemish free as possible in the area that you'll be using. Pattern Making A.) The first step in pattern making, and one that should be repeated frequently during all stages of preparation and fabrication, is to carefully make sure that the pistol is unloaded and the action is clear of rounds. This part can not be over-emphasized. Don't trust any one else during your inspection. B.) After insuring that the weapon is not loaded, take a large piece of brown paper, either shipping paper or a grocery bag, and fold it lengthwise down the center. You need to have a clean, crisp fold. After the crease is made, open the paper flat with the crease running away from you on the table. C.) Position the pistol with the bore pointing away from you for extra safety in such a manner so that the front sight blade is resting squarely in the crease that you made. Then you should center the notch in the rear sight and the center of the hammer (if one is exposed) on the crease as well. From here on the directions are for a right hand holster. For a left hand model, reverse the directions. D.) Carefully so you don't let the pistol move, lay it over to the left. While holding the pencil perfectly perpendicular to the paper, trace around the pistol from the end of the bore nearest the crease, along the barrel and trigger guard, grip, hammer, and back to the frame at the rear sight. 1.) While at this point, mark the top of the rear sight by a horizontal line drawn parallel to the crease and another from the line marking the end of the barrel across the crease. 2.) Move the pistol off off the paper and put it in a safe place. Then, before going any further, label the pattern RIGHT HANDED with make and model of pistol, including any information such as barrel length, frame type, sight or trigger modifications, etc. 3.) Trace in the outline of the holster, using points 3/4" away from the trigger guard and muzzle end of the barrel as start and end points. For the top of the holster, sketch in the cut line to expose as much of the trigger as you like and coming back up over the body of the pistol to the mark that you made for the rear sight. E.) Carefully cut out only the section that you have sketched for the holster. F.) Fold pattern in half: then carefully draw a line 3/4" away from and parallel to the crease. Then trace around the edge of the holster from the crease near the muzzle up to the top of the trigger guard. From the point at the top of the trigger guard, extend a line straight up the paper that is parallel to the line drawn near the crease. G.) By now you should have the rough pattern cut out and ready to check the fit around the pistol and to set the belt loop. After checking once again that the pistol is not loaded, fit the pattern around the pistol to check fit. 1.) If satisfied with the fit, carefully hold the pistol against your hip and feed the extra paper of the belt loop under your belt. 2.) Adjust the holster so that the pistol is positioned where you want to carry it and at the angle you want it to hang. Once you have this, pull the paper belt loop snug against your belt and make pencil marks at the top of the fold over the belt and trace the holster pattern onto the loop paper where ever it can be done. This should give you an idea of the hang of the loop and how much leather you need to remove to get it to hang the way that you want. H.) Store pistol and lay pattern back on table with belt loop extended. Draw and label a line for the fold at the top of the belt, then sketch in the shape of the belt loop. 1.) I usually leave 2 1/2" to 3" for the loop. I measure this in fom the fold side of the holster, then swing a nice smooth arc from the point at the top of the trigger guard to the top of the fold over the belt. 2.) To layout the pointed end of the belt loop, I usually measure 3/4" to 1" below the bottom of the belt at the center of the loop and make a mark. Then 1 swing an arc from what would be the bottom of my belt to this point. 3.) Once these lines are all sketched in, trim the pattern. L. This is the point where you have to make layout marks for a safety strap. There are three different types: a.) Trigger Strap. Travels over the top of the trigger guard to the holster body. Is usually stitched or riveted to the back of the holster in the belt loop, fed through a slot punched above the trigger guard and fastened to a snap on the body of the holster just below the trigger guard. b.) Hammer Strap. Goes between the hammer and the frame to the holster. Is usually stitched or riveted on the rear of the holster inside the belt loop, just between the hammer and the frame, then runs around the front, behind the hammer, and is fastened with a snap set just below the trigger guard. c.) Hammer Loop A slit leather tab that loops over the hammer. I don't recommend this type from a safety standpoint, but may be required for a period type piece. There are two different styles for the strap types. Solid A single unbroken strap from the area of the belt loop to the snap on the body of the holster. Thumb Break. A two piece strap joined by a snap set between the area of the belt loop and the holster body set in such a fashion that the thumb can be used to break the snap as the hand reaches for the pistol. Dependent upon which type of safety strap you decide, mark the areas of the pattern where these will be sewn, threaded, and. snapped. ASSEMBLY I.) Lay pattern on top of Ieather so that the "front" of the pattern (the side that you labeled is on the flesh side of the leather. Trace around the pattern with a pencil or chalk. a,) If you are going to line the holster. place the pattern so that the "front" of the pattern is on the grain side. You want this piece to be reversed so that the holster and liner can be cemented flesh side to flesh side. b.) Mark any places where you will need to punch holes for hardware. I use an awl or needle to pierce these points then fit the line and holster together to be sure the spots match. If they match, punch them. 2,) Cut out the parts, being careful to stay outside of pattern marks. With luck and skill, you should have a slight amount of extra room. This can be trimmed off after assembly, just before burnishing the edges. By allowing this slight extra allowance then trimming it away you should be able to eliminate or minimize any holes in the edge caused by inexact fit of the edges. 3.) The filler is used to insure that the holster stays spread open in the trigger area to prevent binding and rubbing on the trigger and or guard. It also prevents the holster leather from being stretched during molding, which could weaken it in this area. If you are going to use a filler around the trigger guard, now is the time to cut one. 1.) The filler should be the same thickness as the trigger guar,or at best, just slightly thinner. It should run from the high point of the holster in this area to where the holster begins to taper toward the barrel, just forward of the trigger guard. You should cut these strips about 3/4" wide and long enough so that you will have enough of them to laminate together to have the proper thickness. 2.) The filler should be skived to a near feather edge from near the center of its length to the bottom edge where it lays under the frame. 3.) I usually add a little extra to the top of the filler (above the point of the trigger guard area) to give me room to adjust fit and trim clean after assembly. a.) Cut strips to desired length, then scuff the grain side giving a better gripping surface for the cement. Laminate the pieces and lay them aside to set. 4.) If holster is to be carved or stamped, do it now. Be sure to tape the back with masking or duct tape to minimize stretching during tooling. 5.) Set hardware. If the holster is to be lined, laminate the holster to the liner, weight it down and put it aside to set. 7.) Check fit of holster around pistol.- Make any adjustments necessary now. a.) Mark your stitching line with the wing dividers. 1.) If you used a lining, this stitch line should be marked the whole way around the project to secure the lining. b.) Use the thonging chisel to cut your stitching holes in the holster and the filler. c.) Cement in filler. 8.) Dye the project a.) if Iined with vegetable tanned leather, dye and finish the liner. b.) If unlined, dampen the inside of the holster and use a piece of heavy scrap that you have molded into a sanding block to burnish the flesh side. Remember, as with all burnishing it doesn't require pressure but speed to build up the required friction to burnish properly. 9.) Stitch together using saddle stitch. a.) If lined, I start at the bottom of the front near where the holster bottom starts to run horizontal. I stitch the lining and holster together and continue around to where I start to stitch the back and front together, then continue up to the point above the trigger guard. From there I continue to stitch the lining and holster together around the front, continuing around the belt loop and closing off the stitching when I return to the point above the trigger guard. 10) After stitching, use a sharp knife to trim the edges even. If necessary, you can touch them up with sand paper to be sure that they are smooth and flush. 11.) Bevel the edges. Dress them for burnishing in the manner of your choice (ie. Edge Coat, Gum Tragacanth). I prefer water. 12.) Burnish the edges until they look hard and shiny. If trimmed and burnished propedy the seam where the pieces join should be nearly invisible, 13.) Wrap the pistol in several layers of plastic wrap, wet the holster and push the pistol in. Work the damp leather around the contours of the pistol then set it aside to dry. 14.) After completely dry, remove the pistol and condition the leather with your favorite conditioner. Johanna & John L. Henry Jr. Macon GA

Fisherman's Bend: secures as end is pulled Clove Hitch (Builder's Hitch): for fastening staging Timber Hitch: holds w/o slipping or jamming Sheet Bend (Weaver's Knot): used to join ropes, threads & yarns. Used on ships and in textile mills Fisherman's Knot: strongest method of joining fine lines Surgeon's Knot: Modified from the reef knot Reef Knot: (Square Knot) : Should never be used as a bend Figure 8 Knot: a temporary knot * a "bend" is the joining of two separate ropes together Johanna

I flipped it for you. Wow. Love the detail on the dragon scales. Is that done with a heat tool? I remember as a kid using a magnifying glass and sunshine to burn designs onto wood. (Probably lucky I didn't start a major fire!) Obviously, your method is a lot more precise and gives you better control. Thanks for sharing! Johanna

http://www.pslg.org/ The Prairie States Leather Guild has a new website, thanks to Joe Holman. The PSLG meets in Downers Grove, Illinios, and was formed in 1955. It is an active member of the Midwest Federation of Leather Guilds and a member of the IFoLG. Membership includes a monthly newsletter. Sign up here.

Whinewine- can you give us a tease about the article? maybe a pic or a description of the process(es)? Doggone it, I'm gonna have to renew my sub to the LC & SJ again! Johanna

I get the most interesting mail! This artist is from Brazil or Minnesota, not sure, and here is his description of his work: I have been crafting my maps on leather using technique called PYROGRAPHY. Pyrography is the skill of using fire to create art. PYRO means fire and GRAPH means art. Perhaps the first art was done by the caveman on a piece of animal skin with a stick of burning wood. The maps I make are entirely done by hand which makes every piece very unique. In my work I use fine ox leather, simple tools and well practiced fire engraving methods. All the lines and shades are burned into the leather thus impossible to erase or fade. Dyes are applied to the skin to create deeper shades and contrasts. Next, the surface is coated with plant solution to protect it against time and insects. Finally, natural paste is applied to attain fine finish. The completed piece can be hanged with wooden rods and leather straps or enclosed into a wooden frame to complement any setting whetter it is home or office. My maps are highly decorative, elegant and engaging. They make unforgettable souvenir, unique gift or breathtaking decoration which only becomes more beautiful with time. Because I use raw leather and hand tools each piece is slightly distinct and projects its individuality. See examples at mapsonleather.com Be sure to look at the colored versions, too: http://www.mapsonleather.com/coucol75100ab.html It's not a very easy site to navigate, but click here and hover your cursor over "List of maps". After you make your selection, hover your cursor on the small images, and the picture will display in a larger size on the right side of the screen. I was really impressed with the detail the artist/historian includes in all the pieces. I would guess that when paper was cost prohibitive and fragile, many a map was made in this fashion- even after a rough storm at sea, you could read it! Has anyone here ever tried pyrography? I've seen examples of it, but never anything on this order. I emailed the artist and invited him to have a look around leatherworker.net. Johanna

Hidecrafters has some good deals right now- old and new items, with Dale Hietala's bear on the cover. You can view the flyer here: http://www.hidecrafter.com/uploads/HC_DIGE...AN-FEB_2007.pdf You'll need a pdf reader...get it here: http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html Anyone have Jim McGuire's "Hints & Tips" coffeetable book yet? It was compiled from old issues of the LC & SJ. What do you think? Johanna

Beautiful! I like the round braid, too. Adds to the elegance of the clean design. Thanks for sharing! (you do make the blades, too, don't you?) Johanna

In this month's PSLAC newsletter, there is a fascinating article about the production process of Bob's tools, written by Norm Lynds, an accomplished toolmaker himself. I knew there was a lot that went into making these high quality tools, but didn't know just how much is done by hand. You can go to the PSLAC site and click "public index" or go here: http://pslac.org/public/01_jan07.pdf You will need a pdf reader to view the newsletter. The free one from Adobe can be obtained here: http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html This month's newsletter also has an informative lesson in bookbinding, and a Tandy press relese (Wray Thompson is stepping down) as well as other items of interest to leatherworkers. Check it out! PSLAC is one of the best leatherworking resources available, and if you join, you get to see more than you would have guessed. Tell 'em Johanna sent you! Johanna

Okay, some latigo will bleed, but the *better* brands bleed very little. Of course, I do not know the current market for latigo, because I haven't sold/bought latigo since...ummm...1998. Does Leather Balm w/ Atom Wax help? Or is another sealer more effective? Just curious. Johanna

Dale, I love looking at your work. When did you know you were going to be an artist? In addition to the careful detail that identifies your work, you have an eye for color. Do you work in other mediums than leather, too? Thanks for sharing...I would enjoy seeing anything you are working on, any time, leather or not. Johanna

Latigo isn't meant to be dyed by the consumer/producer. The oils, waxes and dyes the tannery injects during the manufacture don't really allow much penetration of liquid dyes or conditioners. Latigo will seldom, if ever, bleed, even when soaking wet from water or sweat. Real latigo won't show "chips" or scratches, either, because the color is all the way though, unlike vegetable tanned leather. Latigo is stiffer and, though nice to look at, probably overkill for human restraints, and expensive if you get into commercial production. Latigo is made in many colors, from gentle browns to reds to blacks. Siegels of California and Wickett & Craig will probably send you samples, if you ask. Latigo doesn't need "sealer" like Super Shene. Just watch your girlfriend's skin for irritation, as sweat can sometimes cause chemicals to leach out of the leather and cause a reaction (good advice, latigo or not!) Usually it's just itchy, but if the skin gets broken (from scratching, for example) infection may set in if the leather is exposed to raw skin. (Any leather, not just latigo.) The reason the Shene peeled is that the latigo leather can't absorb it like veggie tanned leather. Regular veggie tanned leather is suitable for your purposes, and you may want to experiment for different effects. It is possible to stamp some hides of latigo, but difficult. If you do, prepare to wet it thouroughly, let it soak in, press it for a long time and still be unhappy with the results. Make sure any leather you choose is dampened and buffed smooth on the side that will touch her skin. Rub it with sheeps wool intil it shines and is smooth, then do it for another hour. Even better, line it with some soft sheepskin for comfort. Latigo won't stretch as much as veggie tanned, but vegetable leather won't stretch enough to matter. She's a woman, not a horse. Okay, I'm taking the liberty of adding you to the "adult only" area because I don't want to say much more on the main board and risk offending someone. I'm looking forward to talking with you more, and there are some other folks here that know lots more than me and have better imaginations. I'm not trying to discourage your posting at all, so please don't misunderstand. You sound like you've been at this long enough to understand discretion. Johanna

It Does Make You Feel Good, 1. Falling in love. 2. Laughing so hard your face hurts. 3. A hot shower. 4. No lines at the supermarket. 5. A special glance. 6. Getting mail. 7. Taking a drive on a pretty road. 8. Hearing your favorite song on the radio. 9. Lying in bed listening to the rain outside. 10. Hot towels fresh out of the dryer. 11. Chocolate milkshake (vanilla or strawberry). 12. A bubble bath. 13. Giggling. 14. A good conversation. 15. The beach 16. Finding a 20 dollar bill in your coat from last winter. 17. Laughing at yourself. 18. Looking into their eyes and knowing they Love you 19. Midnight phone calls that last for hours. 20. Running through sprinklers. 21. Laughing for absolutely no reason at all. 22. Having someone tell you that you're beautiful. 23 Laughing at an inside joke. 24. Friends. 25. Accidentally overhearing someone say something nice about you. 26. Waking up and realizing you still have a few hours left to sleep. 27. Your first kiss (either the very first or with a new partner). 28. Making new friends or spending time with old ones. 29. Playing with a puppy. 30. Having someone play with your hair. 31. Sweet dreams. 32. Hot chocolate. 33. Road trips with friends. 34. Swinging on swings. 35. Making eye contact with a stranger. 36. Making chocolate chip cookies. 37. Having your friends send you homemade cookies. 38 Holding hands with someone you care about. 39. Running into an old friend and realizing that some things (good or bad) never change. 40. Watching the expression on someone's face as they open a much desired present from you. 41. Watching the sunrise. 42. Getting out of bed every morning and being grateful for another beautiful day. 43. Knowing that somebody misses you. 44. Getting a hug from someone you care about deeply. 45. Knowing you've done the right thing,no matter what other people think. Lord keep Your arm around my shoulder and Your hand over my mouth.

I stumbled on this page by accident. I had forgotten how many different kinds of awls there were.

Welcome to leatherworker.net! Your welcome sign is very strikingly handsome. Glad to have you here! Johanna

Clay Banyai's illustrated guide to figure carving Johanna

ClayB's Figure Carving Tutorial Step by step instructions, written and illustrated by Clay Banyai. Outstanding demonstration of figure carving. (Thank you thank you Clay!) Johanna

Hey Freak, When you are dyeing leather, you have to let the leather pull the dye off the brush. Because hides vary in their absorbency, I can't tell you to hold this type of brush at this angle, because that won't work. Always turn the work, not yourself, and work so your arm only drags over the part you haven't painted yet. The last time I dyed a belt, what Clay said about glasses was apparent. I am 41, and don't "need" glasses, but I can't see like I could at 40, either. This is especially noticeable trying to get splinters out of the hands or feet of squirming kids and trying to do intricate or delicate dye work. My mom says that when her arms got too short to adjust the distance between her nose and the newspaper, she had to get glasses, too. She calls it "presbyopia". For items you really can't afford to mess up, whether painting or doing filigree, you can't go wrong with a good adjustable arm light in the shop. For whatever reason, the shadows I could tolerate in my twenties have become nuisances now. I try to remember to go slowly, and not be distracted while I'm working, but with four kids, it's not realistic, so the light helps a lot. Johanna