Johanna

I don't think you can establish an account with Ohio Travel Bag without a wholesale license. OTB supplies many retailers, however, and that might be better for the hobbiest because OTB has high minimum orders (How many hobbiests need 10,000 rivets at one time?). If you go to their web site www.ohiotravelbag.com you can view the catalog online and ask your favorite retailer to stock or obtain that "special" thing you need. Springfield Leather http://www.springfieldleather.com/ would be my first phone call. If Kevin doesn't have it, he'll tell you where to find it, or get it for you. Johanna

I stumbled on a woodworking site and this leather tool roll caught my eye. Note the price for just the tool roll. Yes, it's ON SALE for $50. Try not to choke on your coffee. It has twelve pockets and can come with fancy tools, and when you see those woodcarving tool prices, you may be relieved that you do leather. I guess I should be happy that the tools don't come wrapped in nylon... And is that super-duper tool roll made by hand in the USA or imported from a mass manufacturing factory in a third world country? Hmmm... If I thought I could get away with it, I'd make tool rolls all day if I could get $50 a pop. Johanna

Not to hijack this topic, but is it possible to get goat lace any more? Roo is fine lace, but nothing beats goat. It disappeared from the market about, what, ten years ago? If anyone has a supplier, I'd be interested to know who. I like the way goat is a little thinner, but twice as tough. It will take being beaten down and slicked hard, and just looks and wears better over time. Kangaroo will break more easily, especially if it gets dry. JMO, YMMV. Johanna

On a "good" hide, you should be able to rewet the leather as many times as you need to as long as you haven't dyed or finished it. This is the easiest way to prevent mold and mildew. A very good (and experienced) carver told me that leaving the leather wet for extended periods of time breaks down the leather fibers. I have no scientific evidence to back this up, but we all know how when you over case leather, it gets mushy, and the tool impressions are not as clear. Perhaps that is what my friend was trying to avoid? I have also heard about all the different chemicals you can add to leather for casing, but I've seen quality work done with plain old water, so I would guess that is just a matter of personal preference. I was taught to never use soap-Dawn or saddle soap- because it pulls the oils out of the leather. Again, I am not a tooler, I am only repeating my understanding of the process of casing. That said, every tooler has his own way of doing things, and I'm sure there are a dozen formulas and a hundred different ways to case leather, and the only way each individual tooler finds out what works perfectly for him is to play and experiment. Every hide acts differently, too, so what you might do to one hide, you might not choose to do with another. Hmmm...I think what I'm trying to say is that there is no right or wrong way, unless you mess up the leather. My leather carving is so bad a cow shouldn't have to die for it. Johanna

The final vendor layout has been announced for the 2006 IFoLG show in October, Butler, Pa. Johanna

Wes, Tandy stores are usually closed on Sundays because Tandy Managers are expected to work at least 9-6 Mon-Sat (54 hours a week) and, often, it's more than that. I can't begrudge them their day off, LOL not after my five years as a Tandy mgr. in Georgia. Take a little piece (corner or something) of that hide, cut it off, and play with it. Wet it a little. Mold it over top of a potato or a carrot, just so you get the idea of how the leather will absorb the water and take shape. Use a stylus or an old pen and make some lines. Use a spoon to practice grooves and shaping. Use your imagination and see what you think. You ordered the two very best books available for what you want to do. Let us know when they arrive and you've had a chance to look them over. Johanna

Okay, Wes, you really are starting from scratch. Two good things- you are not intimidated by this project, and second, you have no "bad habits" to unlearn. The book that Greg mentioned in the other post is an excellent resource, "How to make Holsters" by Al Stohlman. If you were going into business I would say to make the aluminum form, but for one gun, it's not necessary. This is what I have seen others do: unload the gun. No, I'm not trying to be funny, you wouldn't believe how many times I've asked someone to unload the gun when they brought it in, and they said it was already, and it wasn't. Double and triple check. LOL Use Vaseline to protect the metal, and wrap it in Saran wrap, fastening with masking tape to make it snug. Visit your local newspaper and ask for a discarded "end roll" so you have some big paper to experiment with patterns on. (A butcher shop might be able to help, too.) When working with leather, you want to measure twice, cut once, or you'll wind up with (relatively expensive)scrap. You will want to put a straight edge on that hide to cut your strap before you begin (double shoulders are tricky to get the desired length for straps sometimes) and then you can lay your paper pattern this way and that so you miss any blemishes in the leather, and use your hide efficiently. Cut your pattern pieces a little big- you can always trim them later. Wet the leather and use your fingers to push the leather into the desired shape. (See why I want the gun unloaded?) It may need to dry overnight, and you may decide to do it again the next day to get just the shape you want. Some people use little "beanbags" filled with shot to encourage the leather to hold its shape, but you can also use other household objects, as long as you are careful not to mark the wet leather (like a C clamp would mar the surface of wet leather). When you are satisfied with the shape, it's time to punch the holes and sew. Al Stohlman wrote a book on handsewing that covers how to do the two needle lockstitch, which will not unravel if one stitch should break. I would probably use a stitching groover to recess the stitches slightly. When it is sewn, trim your edges and burnish them with denim or scrap leather until they look like one piece, and you can best do that after you've done your dye work, before you use a sealer on the leather. You're going to need: a decent metal yardstick (straight edge), a gang punch or thonging chisel (same thing) or an awl to make the holes, needles and thread (use the blunt harness needles for this job) dye, sealant, hardware, a hole punch. (Do not waste your money on a rotary hole punch- it will limit how far into the work you can go with future projects) and a mallet. I'm going to ask a couple of the experts to look at this thread, because there are always several ways to skin a cat, no pun intended. This is an ambitious first project, but it's not out of reach, especially with the good advice from the pros. Is there a Tandy dealer anywhere in your area? It would be a good idea to look over the holster book before you get started, and they have the basic tools you will need. I'm going to PM some folks, so stay tuned. Johanna

I'm a little worried that the 5/6 oz weight isn't going to be heavy enough. Have you drawn your pattern? How much experience do you have doing this kind of thing? (I don't want anyone to leave steps out if this is very new to you) There are several ways to protect the gun while you wet form. Do you plan to handstitch? Do you have all your hardware yet? How are you fixed for tools? I can point you in the general direction, but there are a lot of more experienced makers than me here, and I hope they chime in. Johanna ps Welcome to Leatherworker.net!

I like it, Dan! When are you coming home to Defiance for a visit? I make good coffee and have a secret supplier for Krispy Kreme donuts! The natural background really accents the carving and coloring. It looks like beautiful leather, not painted plastic. It also looks like it's one of those pieces that time makes even more attractive. Johanna

I can probably live with this clever nylon case of many pockets for my laptop, but the cheap nylon shoulder strap has got to go. One of the plastic clips that attaches it is already broken, and the strap is too wide, with no shoulder pad. My laptop isn't that heavy, but my ribs are sore enough from the multiple fractures this summer- I don't need a strap digging ito my shoulder. What I need is a fixed position shoulder pad, because otherwise it will catch in my hair when it slides, if my hair is down. I was thinking about sewing two pieces of cabretta together with foam inside, what do you think? I think the sheepskin will stay in place better than a leather with a slippery or glossy hand, but maybe suede would be better on the inside? I have my choice in the shop with fifteen years worth of scraps. I don't need to make the strap adjustable, because no one else should be carrying my laptop. LOL It would be nice to balance it just right, because of the sore ribs, and because I am so short. (Standard size shoulder straps usually have the bag below my hips, and I'd rather a purse or case like this be under my elbow.) I do have some quality swivel snaps I used to use for dog leashes, and some strips of latigo and 8/9 oz veggie tanned available for the strap. Then my husband said "You really like that braid on your purse- can't you do that with the latigo? And maybe you could carve something onto the pad?" Hmmm...now things are getting complicated- endless possibilities just to solve a simple problem. Well, I don't carve very well- I've seen Boy Scouts do a better job than me. I can stamp, but lack the creativity to make it interesting. Plus, the case is black, so I would imagine I want the strap and shoulder pad to be black, too. Cabretta? Or should I go ahead and hack a hide to make a one piece strap, and just pad and line the wide part? Decisions, decisions... I haven't done much in the shop in a long time. Ten years ago this would have been a half hour project. Now, I can't even decide what would work the best, or look okay with (gasp!) Nylon. Johanna

There are entire books written about the art of coloring vegetable tanned carving leather. Briefly- dye is not water soluble (unless you use the Institutional dye they make for schools and prisons) and Antique is water soluble. There are two kinds of dye- alcohol based (like Tandy Pro dye) and oil based (Like Fiebings Oil Dye). My personal preference is oil dye, but that and a dollar will buy you a cup of coffee. There are dozens of ways to skin a cat! After you do your coloring, you must seal the leather with a finish, and there are, again, lots of choices from Neat Lac to Super Shene and everything in between. If you can, play around with some scraps until you get the look you want, and remember, every hide is different and will accept coloring in its own special way, so don't try to follow hard and fast rules. Make it up as you go along, and trust your eye. Johanna

It's www.iilg.org (International Internet Leathercrafters' Guild) and they are the co-hosts for this year's IFoLG (International Federation of Leather Guilds) show. However, their main discussions are on (shudder) Yahoogroups. You can also find out more about the show at www.pittpounders.org who are the Pittsburgh co-hosts of the show. You don't have to be a member of a guild to attend, only to enter your work into the competition. If you go to the show you will be amazed and awed at the diversity of the craft, and the fellowship of the regulars. There are plenty of vendors, displays, and "shop talk" every year. If you want to get into a teaching workshop, better hurry up and register, though- the classes fill up fast and deadlines are approaching. Glad you found us, hope you enjoy the forum. Johanna

Dan, I love your work! You should be proud of that eagle- and I like the depth you got with the oak leaf border. Here's the same eagle done by Billy 2-shews (Bill Stockil) of South Africa. Thanks for sharing! Johanna

There is a man in our area who does chainsaw carving at fairs and festivals, and I cannot remember his name for the life of me, but he always draws a crowd of spectators. I am amazed at how he knows what NOT to cut away. Just like in music, where the notes you don't play matter just as much as the ones you do, carving leather or wood is the same way. You already understand texture and depth, so switching mediums is just a matter of mechanics, not aesthetics. During my years as a Tandy manager, I noticed that people who had already worked with clay or wood or other three dimensional media easily picked up leatherwork, compared to "painters". One difference you will note is that wet leather can be formed (molded) and I've yet to see anyone do that with a log. As you experiment, you will figure out what works best for you, and you will develop your own style. For carving basics, you can't go wrong with an Al Stohlman book. His book "Leathercraft Tools" details care and use of all the regular tools of the art. What geographical area are you from? There may be a leather guild near you, and that would be a great opportunity to learn a little more and make some new friends. If you are anywhere near Pittsburgh, Pa, there is a show coming up in October that will knock your socks off, if you can attend. I know this is a leather forum, but I would bet everyone here would love to see pics of your chainsaw carving, if you're willing to share. Welcome to the forum- glad you are here! Johanna

We have more online storage than we will ever need, and are not using even 10% of our bandwidth. Plus, if we ever grow to be HUGE, we can bump up all the limits. No one needs to post pics from remote hosts- just upload the attachments from your own computer. Thank you for sharing your work with us, Freak, and Dan is right about leather-mania! You are now hooked on one of the oldest crafts of man- leatherwork! Johanna

Bruce Grant's books are not out out of print, and they cover a lot more than lacing- There are so many kinds of lacing- from decorative to stitching. Tandy sells a book with pretty basic instructions. Hey, Braider from up north! Post in and show us some examples! Johanna

I always cut it with a knife into a triangular shape and screw it in. I've never had a problem with 'roo- in fact I like it almost as well as goat. It seems the cowhide lacing has more fibers that grip, so you need a longer ---->>>> point on the lace for a lifeeye with smooth leather lacing like roo or goat. Speaking of lifeyes, my favorite lacing needle, sharpen them and your lacing will go much quicker. I will strop mine every now and then, because they do pick up anything gummy like cement or glue while working. Johanna

Welcome, Shane, and glad you introduced yourself. Never be embarrassed to post your pics with this crowd. They will give you honest advice, and be as pleased as you as you see your work improving. There is an adult area of this site, and one of the members has posted pics of her bike seats there (she claims to only have worked with leather for a year, but we are suspicious! LOL) Let me know if you want to be able to see that part of the forum. Some of the best leatherworkers in the world belong to this board, and if there are any that are selfish with their "secrets", I don't know them. Johanna

Bob who? I like your work, Dan! Your memo book reminds me of my wallet. My late first husband did the carving, but I designed the interior. It has loads of pockets and secret pockets, and I fixed it so that I never have to lift it out of my purse to get to the contents. Now, understand this thing is about 12 years old, I can't remember the last time I put any grease on it, but I'm sure it's been a few years, and it lives in the hell known as "Mom's Purse". It has a super secret pocket that no one would ever find (I really should leave a note for my husband in case I drop dead, too, because I keep my "mad money" in there!) I know it's heavy compared to some wallets, but it still suits me, and I don't lose things. It might take me a minute to find stuff, but I haven't ever had to pull it out of my purse in public. Johanna

Footwear of the Middle Ages by I. Marc Carlson The link above has some valuable info and suggestions for anyone interested in making period footwear. Johanna

On page 36 on the Sept. 2006 Playboy in the "Mantrack" section there is a picture of a leather backgammon set that sells for $3500.00 and conveniently fits in your Ferrari. Here is the backgammon set. Okay, this Schedoni leather must be something, right? Automotive Accessories: The Soft Side of SophisticationRobert Farago Now, I'm curious. It appears that www.schedoni.com is a valid website, but all I see is a black screen. Not sure what is up with that, but I did see pictures of their trunk specific luggage, and yes it looks very nice, but it should, for the price. This once again demonstrates that anyone can become successful at leatherwork if they are aware of who their target market audience is and exploit it. The luggage. Even better, this leather will MATCH in a Mercedes! You can get a six piece set CHEAPER than the backgammon board to fit in your glove compartment! from Cigar Aficionado who go on to say that English leather is actually better, and why. Schedoni makes a lot of money from those French cows!Johanna You can also buy this leather plaque for $100 from Schedoni, though I'm not really sure why anyone would want to. They made a special plate for that, didn't they? off the :soapbox:

ShopTalk ought to get you pointed in the right direction. Click on the sewing machine manuals and parts link. Here's another invaluable resource to bookmark: The New Big Book from Proleptic. Hope this helps, Johanna

Dale covers how to design a pattern, how to prepare the leather for carving, the tools used for carving, coloring, construction and sewing, with step by step illustrations. This is a must-read for youth leaders with leather projects to do. Dale explains what to do and why. Dale Hietala of Moonlight Art Studio's Tutorial Johanna (Thanks, Dale!)

It sounds like Jeff Mosby is using the same steps I described above. The shading you are seeing is partly a result of the tooling. Jeff carves deep into the leather, and can burnish the surface with his pearshaders, for that extra dark effect. Pictures don't do his work justice. The texture of his work leaves you thinking "That man uses good leather, and is not afraid to pound it!" When the work isn't carved as deeply, the subtle effects of the shading don't show up the same. Just like when casing the leather with water, how the surface will take dye or stain depends on how absorbent it is, and that changes as the leather is cut, pressed, flattened, etc. The great thing about Antique as a final step is that you can take a bucket with a wet rag and just play with it- wipe it on, wash it off, let it dry, do it again, until you achieve the look you want. Johanna ps Putting the shene on before the antique might be having an effect on how the antique is being absorbed.

Candyleather Little Jon made me a purse for when I was on the back of motorcycles with an extra long braided strap like you used on the hand strap handles of the first pictured bag. He used thicker leather, carefully edged it, braided it close, formed it, burnished it and I love that braid. It never pulls my long hair, and it does not catch on things. That bag is stunning, but I would have a hard time with that twist style of braid for the shoulder strap because of my hair. For any bag as big as my laptop, I want a shoulder pad, too. Are you in business yet, and do you have a website? You have quite a variety of good looking stuff, so I hope you're selling plenty. If you have a portfolio site, I know I would want to look at everything. Got a link to share? Johanna