Johanna

Al- what a great find! And a good idea for anyone looking for patterns- engravings. old or modern, convert to leather patterns well. I looked up Thomas Bewick and found a lot of interesting material on the net, including this link: http://web.ukonline.co.uk/archer/bewickmain.html which shows the range of talent this man had for illustration. In his time, books were expensive, and every illustration had to be produced from an engraving like this. My husband is a millwright, and they have lasers that can cut to within 10,000ths of an inch, programmed by computers. This gentleman did fine work by eye, with his two hands, just like we leatherworkers still do. Super idea, and thanks for sharing! Johanna

I feel better that I am not the only one who has had the problem with the boxes. I try to be very careful, but as you all said, it's easy to mess up. I saw some small stamps in the Tandy flyer today that look to be striking tools- simple letter impressions, no blocks. I'm going to check them out. I've noticed the 3-D stamps seldom box because they are raised more, and the area is wider (impact is spread evenly). Bruce, I was shown to use letter stamps with as little water as possible, so I think we're on to something with that trick. Maybe that will help someone else. Hey Holly, when you get time, post a pic of Peter's modeling tool, please? I've heard nothing but good things about them, and I'm sure others will want to see one, too. TYM. Johanna

When you are lacing, always start (and end) in the most inconspicous place, and never on a place subject to stress. It really helps to double up a few times around the corners for a neater appearance, and bang it flat with the back end of your mallet when you are through, then burnish the edge with a wheel or antler. When you start doing your own patterns, I would suggest punching holes as slits with chisels rather than round holes like kits have. If you are lacing right, the stitch is pulled to the top, and when held up to light, you can't see any holes. If you're wondering why I have not mentioned carving (which you show an obvious talent for) it's because I am possibly the world's worst carver, and probably always will be. Johanna

The advice about switching knives mid cut or whatever you need to do goes along with turning the work as much as possible, and don't try to force you or your tools to be contortionists. I use the larger rotary cutters and I've found good quality cutters and knives in fabric stores (look in the quilting section) as well as reasonably priced blades. Like Bruce mentioned, they are disposable. It gets dull, it gets tossed. I learned how to use a round knife and head knife from an elderly man in Macon, an experienced saddlemaker. I never ever left one on the back table in the Tandy store because a new person could very well cut off a finger, and blood stains are hard to get out of leather. When you begin to practice, while you are still learning and until you feel comfortable, don't forget the golden rule- cut away from yourself! I watched a guy roll the blade over the meat between his thumb and index finger, and it required a few stitches. That accident was avoidable if he had placed his hands correctly. To preserve all of your knives, make sure you never cut directly on the bench or marble. Always use scrap leather or a Poundo board underneath. Make sure all your punching tools, chisels and blades always have leather or a Poundo board to bite into, or they may be ruined, or require heavy duty repair. Johanna

You can change the text size in IE with the scroll wheel and holding down the control key. If you don't have a scroll wheel on your mouse, you can also select "view" in Internet Explorer and change the size of the text. If you do change the text with your wheel, and can't get it back to where you had it, use the view button to restore your preference. Another hint for hard-to-see screens is to change the resolution display on your monitor. Most monitors these days are set at 1024X768, or higher, and most website are designed for 1024X768 viewing. If you right click on the desktop, choose"properties" then "settings", there is a slider that will allow you to adjust your screen resolution. (Try 800X600) If you don't like it, just change it back. If you have XP, click Start>Accessories>Accessibility and explore the options there. If you are having trouble seeing, Windows will narrate to you. If you are having trouble hearing, Windows will indicate sounds with text. You can also override websites with awkward backgrounds and silly fonts in Internet Explorer by clicking Tools> Internet Options> General tab> accessibility button (located on the bottom right) or create a style sheet if you need to view things a certain way. Hope this is useful for someone. Johanna

Well, twelve websites I'm responsible for are hosted on a plan like this: http://www.gtghosting.com/plan1.html So experience has taught me that this company is dependable and trustworthy. This site is hosted there, and the main servers are in Texas. You can look it all up on whois.com. You can find similar plans by different providers. You can ask on tech forums who they like, or you can try cNet or somewhere for reviews, but I happen to know this company is reputable from personal experience. You can buy space directly through them, but it costs more. You asked how to determine the best choice? Compare features, and price, ask a webhost's customers for their experiences, see if the webhost offers any customer support or a telephone number to call if you have a problem, check with the BBB. Check with your local ISP to see if they have a hosting plan (you already have an account there, they might make you a deal). Otherwise, I guess you have to depend on luck? Johanna

A webhost should provide security, a back up routine, free site building software and an excellent reputation. I am a reseller, and can buy and host domains for a reasonable price that include the cPanel package. Look at the list of features to make comparisons. The price for a cheap or free webhost is unwanted third party ads, lousy customer service and a lack of site tools. Make sure your webhost is arranged for when you buy your domain name so you can point the name directly to the DNS servers your webhost gives you. If you are transferring a domain, log onto where you bought the domain, unlock it if needed, and redirect it to the new webhost. Johanna

Is there an idiot proof way to stamp regular Tandy alphabet sets and avoid getting the little boxes around the letters? I have mauls, mallets, the huge striker and the ones that come in the sets. Any and all tips appreciated. Sometimes I can hide the marks with a modeling tool, sometimes I can't. I'm a Boy Scout and a Girl Scout leader this year, and I've decided leather is going to get me through this successfully. Johanna

Hi, Kate, good to see you! I am glad I am not the only person who has had trouble with friction burns with Dremel tools and other drills. I hand slick everything, too. At our house, when a pair of jeans (heavy cotton cloth) wears out, they go to the shop to be edging rags. Pretty please, post some of your work in "Show Off!" I'd love to see what you've been up to lately! Johanna

This is the inside of my purse. It was done with a Life Eye and a pair of pliers, and I didn't have enough strength to do it, and it wasn't because of the holes. My husband had to do it for me. That's not exactly a buckstitch. but it goes through 8/9 oz leather, a soft goatskin liner and the heavy upholstery grade leather bottom. This is a modified pattern from the old jean bag kit Tandy used to sell, for anyone interested. I love this purse because the braided strap never snags my hair, even when it's down, and it's long enough to wear on the opposite shoulder, like when I am on the back on a bike. It's also deep enough to pack a book and a lunch. LOL Johanna

You asked . Here is what I think: I knew it was Custer immediately, and I opened your pictures before I read your post. Wow, Karl, you have a real talent for doing people, which has got to be the hardest thing in the world to carve. I hope you share with us as you work on this project. I've always wondered how Custer could have ignored the scouts and attacked 20,000 people with, what, 300? 300 tired, half starved ragtagged troops against one of the biggest assemblies of Natives, gathered for a holiday, and the Apache scouts told him, but he wouldn't stop. They painted their faces and sang their death songs. It is said that afterwards the women pierced Custer's ears with awls because he didn't listen. I wonder what he was thinking as he stood on the bluff and looked down? You captured the set of his jaw and the tilt of his head. I like the way your lines flow better than the original picture, especially for leather. How do you plan to color and seal it? That's going to be tricky, because you don't want to lose the detail you added. Wow, I envy your sure lines. You do nice work! Johanna

Alex, you have been bitten by the leather bug. It's not fatal, but it can be expensive, and it continues to spread across the planet, even after 10,000 years and the introduction of a myriad of synthetic products, none of which can duplicate real-deal Leather. Some symptoms include: 1. openly sniffing leather 2. workshop expansion 3. growth in rate of tool collection 4. hammer wielding 5. interestingly tinted hands 6. inability to hear a Harley go by without trying to see the leather, not the bike 7. "free" Christmas presents 8. feel urges to make derogatory remarks about nylon substitutes 9. uninvited people on your doorstep with tattered beloved items, like ball gloves, begging for repairs 10. a different belt for every day of the week, and new ones on your friends 11. coffee cup with lid for the bench so it doesn't spill during any pounding 12. drawing fire from ignorant PETA people who do not understand the meat industry, or why their Birkenstocks are so comfortable. 13. A scrap box that a newbie would classify as "inventory" 14. unwillingness to leave the bench unless it is to read leather mail 15. inventive colorful language when you whack yourself, stab or cut yourself, and panic at the thought of bleeding on the hide (blood is so hard to get out!) I could go on, but you get the idea. Glad you both are here- hope you have fun and make yourselves comfortable. The only rules here are "No running with scissors!" which is implied to mean headknives and Exacto blades as well, and only because my mom told me not to- I could put an eye out! Johanna (getting older and requiring more light in the shop)

Clay offered to carve me a shoulder pad and I'll make a functional strap with stainless steel clips and toss this nylon one-with its broken plastic clips in the trash. Oooo-wheeeee- have you all seen Clay's work? I feel honored to have something he made! :hug: He made me laugh because he said he'd rather do the carving than the construction on a project, and I am the exact opposite. I could ruin perfectly good leather attempting to carve it! I bought a new truck a few weeks ago and went to the auto parts store for a leather steering wheel cover. No such luck. Everything they had was either rubber or "leather-look". All the steering wheel covers they had were made outside the US, too, btw. I bought an inexpensive one I thought I could live with, or at least make a template from, and when I took it out of the package and saw the lanyard style round plastic lace to wrap it, I nearly cried. YUCK! So I went into the shop, found a roll of black kanga lace and wrapped that baby right. I'll bet no one in my county has a wheel with a couple of yards of Kanga lace on it, and I'll bet my steering wheel cover won't come off unless I take it off. And I just hijacked my own thread, bemoaning the lack of real leather goods available to the average consumer, who doesn't know enough to insist on better, which is leather. Real leather. Tanned animal skins. Possibly not as cheap as the bolts of leather-like stuff they make, but no substitutions can match the feel of real leather. Getting down now. :soapbox: Johanna

Lexol is probably the top brand in the US for equestrian and car upholstery leather care, and they cater to the market. Funny, people don't seem to want to care for those everyday leathers, like their shoes, but then again, most people can't tell the difference between the real thing and the synthetic substitutes available these days. It just hit me that I haven't even oiled my photo album in probably six years. And I made it. aarrgghhh! From the Lexol webpage: HOW TO CLEAN WITH LEXOL starts off: "Keep this thought in mind: leather is skin." Johanna

I'm with Dave on this one. A sharpened LifeEye needle means you don't need a fid. (A fid is like a dull awl, if anyone doesn't know. It's used for opening or lining up the stitching holes.) I was a Tandy manager for five years, and I can't remember anyone we ever showed how to use a LifeEye needle going back to using kit needles again. When you are teaching a new student, and they twist the lace, it is easy to unscrew the lace, pull out the stitches, and screw the lace back in. For what it's worth- If a piece of lace ever should break off inside a LifeEye needle, hold it with a pair of pliers and burn the leather out. The needle will get very hot, but it doesn't hurt anything, and your needle can be saved. The reason Roo lace wants to slip out is because it's an RCH thinner and a little smoother than goat, and won't expose its fibers when cut like calf. I think kangaroo has the most stretch of all, but I like the way it looks and feels over calf, and is probably worth paying a little more for than calf. Hey, Shawn, why don't you start a thread about making your own lace instead of buying it on a spool? I know it would be more cost effective, but I can never get my lace to look right. In 1996 I went to Fort Worth for "orientation", which included a three day tour of the Tandy factories on Eversman Parkway. Tandy lace was still being manufactured in-house and I was mesmerized watching the women work. They were efficient and friendly, and had big callouses. I wonder how many miles of lace they made? Johanna

Antique finish is water based and dye is not. If you use something like Neat Lac, you can seal the leather to where it will not accept Antique (much) and provide a contrast to emphasize something, in this example, a flower. Dye will absorb through (thus cover up) all the above mentioned products, so resisting techniques are not used with an all over dye bath afterward, only antique. Antique lets you play with the color- you put it on, wait for some to absorb, wash it off, decide if you like it, do it again, and eventually you get the effect you want. Afterwards, you seal the leather with a finish. Dye is a "horse of a different color" (sorry, couldn't resist!). You apply dye all over with daubers, or selectively with a paintbrush (I like triple ought sable brushes, and as you touch the dye to the leather, you let the leather pull the dye from the brush, or you will ruin hours of carving with a splotch. Hope that helps. Johanna

Wes, I often think simplicity is elegance. I like the clean lines of the holster you selected to make as your first project, and I like these collector pieces, too. I'm not an expert on antique leathers, but your Austrian holster appears to be dry. You may want to consider oiling it to prevent or slow down the dreaded "dry-rot". What happens is that the leather gets brittle, usually around the stitch lines, then comes undone, and then the item falls apart. Sometimes the leather will darken with an oiling, so if you do not want to risk that, try it in an inconspicous place first. There are many products available to condition leather, and many people swear by Lexol products. I like Dr. Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator, personally. Maybe someone with more experience doing leather reconditioning or restoration will recommend something else. When you apply conditioner, put it on your rag or sheepskin, not the item, and rub it in, then buff with a clean soft cloth. Some leather is thirsty, and you may have to repeat in a few days to get the desired moisture content back into it. Too much oil will damage the leather, so don't soak it- just go slow and use your eyes and hands to tell when the leather feels right. Wes, the only concern I have is that the hide you selected is going to be too thin for the project. Is there any way you could exchange it for a 8/9 oz weight? By the way, double shoulders are the "prime" part of the hide. You could also buy a side (less $ per sq. ft.) and cut straps, then use the lower third for your project. All hides will vary, so when you select a hide, flip it over. If there is a weak spot in the part you have decided to place your pattern, you will have a problem. You will be dyeing your holster black, so you don't need to worry about color variations (like if a hide became sunburnt on display) and might even be able to negotiate a discount. 5/6 is going to mold well, but not have the stiffness you will want, in my opinion, for this project. What do you professionals think?? Johanna

Thanks, Bruce, I never knew where Montana Edgers were from, either, and now I do. I used to have one when I lived in Georgia. I don't remember where I got it from, but I liked it, and someone walked away with it one day when it was laying on the back table at the Tandy store. I saw Verlane's Stitch Ripper on Ron Edmond's website, too. That tool not only looks like fine art, but a huge timesaver. A set of those Montana Edgers would be sweet. I've never seen the Watt ones, but I can imagine they are fine tools, too. I don't know much about saddle tools, and I think I better start reading up on them. Johanna

I do not like hook & eye needles because they tear up my hands, especially when lacing anything more complicated than a checkbook. They bend and break, and cannot stand the force (or the pliers) when buckstitching or going through several layers of leather. They are dull, and don't sharpen well, so they have to be aimed at the holes dead-on. I was taught never to let go of the needle (to prevent twists in the lace) and a pronged needle is great for beginners because it is flat, and easy to keep in the same direction. After a few hundred miles of lacing or stitching, most new leatherworkers graduate to a life eye needle because they are longer, more efficient, and will not come undone at inopportune moments. Tandy includes the pronged needles in their kits because they are cheaper, not because they are a better needle. That is nothing more than my experience and opinion, and that doesn't mean another leather worker wouldn't be happier with a pronged needle- I just happen to hate them because they hurt my hands, especially if it is a project requiring some strength to get the needle through the layers. Everyone should try both kinds, and decide what works best for them. There is no "right" or "wrong" in leathercraft, as long as the finished work functions properly and looks like it is supposed to. Johanna

School just started for my kids, and I've been busy putting together a website for special leather tools. It's about to go online, so I've been a little busy lately. I have too many PMs to answer, so I am just going to post. First of all, I would like to apologize for not answering all the PMs. It is not a lack of interest or appreciation for your kind words. You folks are wonderful, and the mail reminds me every day why I set this board up for us. If you asked for the adult area, I probably just changed you, and didn't reply. If you aren't seeing it, try clearing your temp files, or logging on and off the forum. If you still don't see it, PM me again, I will fix you and reply. I don't think I missed anybody, but I never claimed to be perfect! About my ribs- I did not wreck on a motorcycle or anything nearly so dramatic. I seem to have a premature osteoporosis, and have had two or three sets of rib fractures this summer- a grand total of 15 "hot spots" on 8 different ribs. There wasn't "one" incident, there were several, and this has been going on since March. I'm healing well from the last set and trying very hard not to do break anything else. All summer I have been very short of breath (I cannot imagine how bad this would be for someone who hadn't been singing all her life!) and (extra) cranky and irritable. Those of you who have had broken ribs (and some of you have written to me with very good advice, and I thank you!) know that you can't get comfortable, and just have to wait it out. Thank you to everyone who expressed their concern and their good wishes. I will try to stay in one piece, at least until after the show. Some of you offered your expertise in helping out with forum administration. Dsenette did that and wound up with a job, and he still hasn't gotten the picture I can't take of myself. (Dave, you'll get it by email- LOL) I will take you up on offers for help when the forum gets a little bigger, and I am glad some of you care enough to want to help. I also want to remind everyone that there is NO charge to belong to this forum, but we know and appreciate the ones who believed in the idea enough to chip in. Right now, your posts are more valuable than your dollars. Something you post may help another leatherworker, or lead someone here who wants to buy something from a leatherworker. Post your hearts out- you aren't cluttering anyone's mailbox, all members are selectively reading. We have some of the best leatherworkers in the world here, which is why I don't understand why so few people are posting their website address in their profiles or signatures? Show off, folks!! The web spiders have exceeded my wildest expectations, and this board is getting an average of 150 guest visits from search engines A DAY, and we're brand new. Use it to promote your business, please- no leatherworkers will ever be discouraged from promoting their business on this board. You can talk shop with peers, and Google visitors may call you with jobs. It doesn't get any better than this! Some of you would like to schedule regular times to use the chat room, and I've asked (twisted a few arms) some people to offer to discuss their work and experience, but we need to agree on times, remembering that we are from all over the world. You can always contact your friends via the board and invite them to chat, too- and you can make your rooms private or public. I will be glad to help anyone who is experiencing any technical difficulty. It would be great to see it being used for teaching or fellowship, so does anyone want to organize this? PM me. Candyleather- I have started to answer your message 10 times, and always get interrupted. I will be in touch- we have lots to talk about, I can tell. Thanks to everyone who looked in on Wes when I asked. I never doubted that you guys would let him down, and you didn't. By being willing to share your experience and advice, he got the information he needs to succeed, and with luck, he'll like this work we love so much, that he'll stick around. Each one, teach one, and you guys are the greatest. Reminder- the IFoLG show is coming up in October. Someone want to start a thread about who is going? It would be great to put faces with names, wouldn't it? I'll be there- I am bringing a donation from Billy 2-shews ("The Legacy", a tribute to Al & Ann Stohlman that Billy did). Pittsburgh is my hometown, so if you have questions or need a hand during the show, I'll be on hand with the Pitt Pounders to do whatever I can. Now the not so good stuff: I've had two complaints from people who don't like other people. In your control panel, you can choose to "ignore" people you don't like, or don't want to receive mail from. There posts will never appear to you while you are logged in. I don't want to step in the middle of anyone's issues, so as long as you are posting in a family friendly way on the main board, you're not going to hear from me. If the other members choose to "ignore" you, that's your problem. If you want to cause trouble, go somewhere else, because we can identify you through your IP address and ban you, and though I hope it never comes to that, I will if things ever get ugly. We are here to learn and have fun, not fight.If you're not sure that your comments are appropriate for the public forum, they probably aren't, so send the person a PM, or get a good night's sleep. Like I tell my (rotten) kids- play nice and don't run with scissors. There's been a death in my family, and I am headed home to Pittsburgh for a funeral, but I'll have my laptop and will check in over the weekend. One of my favorite uncles died, and left behind his wife of 57 years. If you are fortunate enough to still have your spouse, please hug him or her a little extra tonight in memory of my Uncle Johnny. If you pray, please ask God to keep his steady hand on my aunt's shoulder. Thank you all, and I'm over and out. Johanna

On regular vegetable tanned leather, there is no substitute for the one thing you cannot buy in a jar, elbow grease. I use a piece of scrap leather (or a rag) and gum tragacanth, leather balm w/ atom wax, or just plain water and rub rub rub. It helps if you have already used an edging tool, and if you are careful about making the leathers line up exactly. You want an edge that looks like one piece, not two. I think lacing was invented to cover up those edges! When lacing fell out of fashion ("too bulky" the customers said) and we all started sewing again, we forgot how important those edges are. In competitions, like at the IFoLG, your edges can make or break your piece. The trick is to get all the fibers to lay down in a smooth burnish- easy on a strap or belt, not so easy on a wallet. Johanna PS Bruce, what is "Ron's Edge Dressing"? I'm not familiar with it- do you mind explaining? TIA

I don't think you can establish an account with Ohio Travel Bag without a wholesale license. OTB supplies many retailers, however, and that might be better for the hobbiest because OTB has high minimum orders (How many hobbiests need 10,000 rivets at one time?). If you go to their web site www.ohiotravelbag.com you can view the catalog online and ask your favorite retailer to stock or obtain that "special" thing you need. Springfield Leather http://www.springfieldleather.com/ would be my first phone call. If Kevin doesn't have it, he'll tell you where to find it, or get it for you. Johanna

I stumbled on a woodworking site and this leather tool roll caught my eye. Note the price for just the tool roll. Yes, it's ON SALE for $50. Try not to choke on your coffee. It has twelve pockets and can come with fancy tools, and when you see those woodcarving tool prices, you may be relieved that you do leather. I guess I should be happy that the tools don't come wrapped in nylon... And is that super-duper tool roll made by hand in the USA or imported from a mass manufacturing factory in a third world country? Hmmm... If I thought I could get away with it, I'd make tool rolls all day if I could get $50 a pop. Johanna

Not to hijack this topic, but is it possible to get goat lace any more? Roo is fine lace, but nothing beats goat. It disappeared from the market about, what, ten years ago? If anyone has a supplier, I'd be interested to know who. I like the way goat is a little thinner, but twice as tough. It will take being beaten down and slicked hard, and just looks and wears better over time. Kangaroo will break more easily, especially if it gets dry. JMO, YMMV. Johanna

On a "good" hide, you should be able to rewet the leather as many times as you need to as long as you haven't dyed or finished it. This is the easiest way to prevent mold and mildew. A very good (and experienced) carver told me that leaving the leather wet for extended periods of time breaks down the leather fibers. I have no scientific evidence to back this up, but we all know how when you over case leather, it gets mushy, and the tool impressions are not as clear. Perhaps that is what my friend was trying to avoid? I have also heard about all the different chemicals you can add to leather for casing, but I've seen quality work done with plain old water, so I would guess that is just a matter of personal preference. I was taught to never use soap-Dawn or saddle soap- because it pulls the oils out of the leather. Again, I am not a tooler, I am only repeating my understanding of the process of casing. That said, every tooler has his own way of doing things, and I'm sure there are a dozen formulas and a hundred different ways to case leather, and the only way each individual tooler finds out what works perfectly for him is to play and experiment. Every hide acts differently, too, so what you might do to one hide, you might not choose to do with another. Hmmm...I think what I'm trying to say is that there is no right or wrong way, unless you mess up the leather. My leather carving is so bad a cow shouldn't have to die for it. Johanna