AndyKnight

My new saddles don't squeek. If you go by the same principle that you would use for your sewing machine or any other piece of equipment you will be able to eliminate virtually all of the sqeeeking. Any parts that rub to gether need lubtication. That is what baby powder does.which does nothing for the leather. So what I do is use a "grease" type saddle dressing and anywhere there is liable to be friction I apply copius amounts. This includes under the skirts , stirrup leathers.etc before they are attached. I also apply it to the backside of the fenders as it is a great sweat inhibitor. I use mostly Fiebing Aussie Saddle dressing. Aussie dressing although thers are other products that work just aswell . This has two benefits, one the customer will love you. and two , it is a huge benefit to the leather. Another benefit is your hands will get nice and soft!!

Jon. what type of epoxy and cloth are you using?? Andy

I think it was lighter but not as strong. maybe comparable to a lightweight rawhide. You could use heavier fibergalss and more resin. to make it stronger. I havn't had time to mess with it. Some of that stuff can be hazardous although the bacteria in the rawhide has got me again recently.

Over here in the interior of BC I still get old growth douglas fir. That isn't to say that there isn't huge amounts of second growth. I like to see 20 plus growth rings per inch. I had a log on the mill recently that had more than 400 growth rings.!! nice wood. Typically trees that have grown in the harsher enviroment of the intereior of BC have tighter growth rings than coastal trees. I have messed with epoxy and fiberglass on one tree. I would like to eperiment more at some time. I am definatly not against trying something that is different. . It ( the glassed tree)was light, but I found rawhideing quicker, I am sure beeuse of my inexperience.

when i shand stitch the backside of something that I can't see ...push the awl through and place the needle on the awl blade where it protrudes and as you pull the awl out cause the needle to follow it into the hole. It works but it will take practice.

Try your sewing machine on some scraps that is close to the project. If you just have a dog feed you may have to help it along a little. My machines are needle feed plus the dogs so have no issue sewing skirts. Otherwise use 2 needles and an awl. have fun.

Pictures would be good

This is all leading up to one thought that I've had for some time. Learng both trades has helped me do both jobs better. When I start a tree now , I know pretty much what I want the saddle to be and I shape the top of the tree to help me in that reguard, when the leather go's on it lets me get to where I want to be. Down side? you can't fool the saddlemaker, or lay the blame on the treemaker. If you only do one, I'd still advise every treemaker to build a saddle, and every saddlemaker to build a tree. RS I sure agree with that!! Andy

I have used Stands that I make from old beauty shop or barber shop chairs for the last 20 plus years That way they have hydraulic cylinder for going up and also 360 degrees of swivel. I believe QWeaver sells a ready made model. I cut the top out of 3 x8 and shape it close tp a horses back and then build it up more with felt and cover it with chap leather..

Troy, That is ac "o sh..t strap" on the swell. Doesn't do much for the saddle. I have some better pics without that and the bucking rolls on another camera but hav't got them downloaded yet. Duke... The latigo wraps on the stirrup leather are about 90 percent show and 10 percent function. The stirrup leathers are twisted and wrapped prior to putting them ib the saddle. I use a stirrup twister which will also pre stretch them a certain amount This is all done with the fenders and where you want to twist them wet. so when they are dry they will hold there shape forever as long as the riders don't mess with them. The wraps just cover the area where the backwards twist is set in. In the past I have done lots where I don't put the wraps on. I will post a pic of my stirrup jig one day.

Thanks for the compliments. Steve, My carving would not be anywhere near what it is if it wasn't for John Visser. who I also agree is one of the best carvers our there. When I look at his carving I feel like I am in grade 1 . I drew these flowers especially for this customer and was quite pleased with the way they turned out. I tend to get in a rut and always carve the same old stuff. I build a saddle like this in about 9 -10 working days plus a day for the tree. The front riggings are harwoods and were promised to my next saddle so I am trying to find another pair as my supplier has none.....If any of you have any extras give me a call. I will try calling Harwoods directly today... Andy

Here is a saddle that I just completed. The inlay is ostrich and the bucking rolld are ostrich leg. Silver is made by Richard Tenisch.

We buy them as "apron splits".. The bags look great. I have always had it my mind to build a whole set of luggage but never seem to have the time. Andy

Sorry ,Didn't mean to be offensive. may be I didn't look close enough. I worked for the Hereford outfit in 1972-3' and it doesn't resemble what they were making when I worked for them.but I would put it from the 60 's as a guess. "tex-tan) where I learn't how not to make saddles......" Andy.

5-6 times my hair cut cost would make my shop rate $55- 65 per hour. I would say that is about what I try and get . Not a very scientific way of coming up with it !! My dentist' wife wanted me to make a set of saddlebags for her husband and trade against the dentist bill. I told her that would work very well as my hourly rate would be about the same as her husbands. For some reason that was the last I heard of it. I figuered he went to university for probably 8 years and practicing for 15. I have been practicing for 30 years.... My daughter just got called to the Bar this month.... her starting rate to practice law $200.00 per hour.. Have a great day!!

Troy, That saddle would be a challenge with out the stamping.. with it is an awsome piece of work!! I have never seen a seat rig up in this part on the world. Andy

Rwc, That Tree i would consider a wade by name only... JMHO "A lot of tree factorys still haven't figured this out. "

here is a sample of a saddle thet is a wade in name only (poorly designed wade) and what I would consider a true wade. Note the height of the fork of each of these saddles . Both of These saddles could easily have the same amount of wither clearance. Please note that These pictures I just found randomly on the net.

I had to find out what "Stattel" is. ( saddle) Now your question makes sense. True wade trees are designed especially for work saddles where they will be used for roping. This is why they are quite popular with the working cowboys. The horn is usually shaped out of the same piece as the fork. The fork is designed and shaped to put the horn as close to the horses wither as possible. The amount of wood under the horn on a tree built this way may be as little as 3 centimeters. This diminishes the leverage on the tree and therefore the horse considerably (when roping.) In todays saddle market there are hundreds of " wade" saddles that don't have the true characteristic of a proper wade. A lot of tree factorys still haven't figured this out. If you order a wade from a reputable saddle maker that uses true handmade trees you should have a true wade.

my guess...a Mexico special...........Hope you didn't pay much..

include rear cinch but not front, tin bound stirrups. . 150.00 for flat plate or inskirt rigging. All stamping /carving is extra.

I will be in the upper range compared to some ,with a base price of $4000.oo and looking at a 400.00 increase. I build my own trees. still too cheap!! Sell saddles all across Canada and the USA. Always busy.

well I have done hundreds of inlays . the way i do themsure works for me. 1: cut the desired shape hole in the seatt. 2: edge , burnish and stitdh groove. 3: skive back side to allow for inlay leather. 4: I pre glue both sides of rough cut EV 50 foam . or Rubitex?? ( the reason is the glue causes the foam to stretch.) allow to dry. 5 Place the foam under the seat and scribe the shape. cut. if the foam is thicker than the seat leather I will use my scratcher to " skive" it down around the edges. 6: Glue top side of foam and the inlay leather. 7: place the foam in the inlay hole on the saddle {It is usually slightly bigger than the hole but I force it in there and hold it flat}( in the seat) and holding it there attach the inlay leather to it. This ensures that the foam is filling the inlay exactly and the inlay leather now ensures the foam is held to the exact shape of the seat. 8: take it out , glue the sides of the foam and when ready to stick just fold the leather over the edge. Use a tickler to crease the fold where it will go under the seat. 9: skive the portion where it will go under the seat. Glue that and the seat , Place the inlay on the saddle then lay the seat on ensureing placement is correct. When you have it right. take it off and sew, it. Glue the whole works down. I now glue the whole seat down front to back in one shot. I use wax paper under neath while I ensure placement is correct. I havn't used a light piece under the foam . I just figure if I have to pull the seat I will sacrifice the inlay. I would think that a 2 oz piece under the foam would quite likely tear whan trying to pull it up. heck I have torn ground saet leather trying to pull seats!!. Sounds like a process but I do it in half an hour or so.

I often use a stitch groover on the back and so ensure my stitching is straight and looks good on the back. If you want you can use a stitch wheel to get your stitch length even. I have a single groover that works well for this.

contact cement from a building supply will work as well as barge on skirting leather. Use a leather roughener and it will stick ..to where you won't be wanting to pull it apart. I also use a latex contact cement from Helmefix. Great but the drying time is longer and even more so on cased leather but no fumes.