Willie0

I have been using my 111w155 for quite a few projects and the upper tension seems to be getting looser with time. I turn down that upper tension with no real result, as the knob keeps slipping. As you can see from the photo, the split screw bar is bent. I bought a tension unit replacement and was wondering if this will be something a non-professional could tackle on her own.

Your horse is adorable, saddle looks very nice.

To be this exact and never miss with the resist or dye takes a great deal of talent.

The wall rack is basically a box on a base filled with pvc cut at an angle. It is from another project from a long time ago, so the pvc is cut to about 6/12 inches, which is too long. I dropped in some segments of thick rope in each hole I used to keep the tools from dropping in too far. I darkened the front faces of the pvc with some leather dye.

Yes, I did the handle wrap. Whenever I have "artists block" on what project to do next, I look around and see what tool need covering. My family laughs about it a little. Even my sewing machine light has a cover. I did a little instructables.com write-up on how to do the handle, but I imagine most here wouldn't need that.

I have a small sloped ceiling room, this is my table. The machines and cutting table are on the other walls.

I've had mine a couple of years now. Works fine, but the mallet head is pretty hard now and seems to have a minor "bounce." I don't use it for 3-D stamps or will get a double impression for sure. Otherwise it has held up well.

It would be awesome to see some pictures of a ccw vest!

This is gorgeous. Thanks for showing this. Now another thing added to my to-do list!

Scraps are nice for testing new stamping designs and for small odds and ends pieces that are needed in projects. Since I am forever changing thread size and color for one at a time projects, I always do a test run with the same material before machine sewing the real project.

I went with the popular "green" press to save money on the dies. I wish I had either modified my arbor press or preferably bought the Tandy one. The quality of some of the hardware just seems a little soft. I have bent snap bases with easy use, and the grommets as well. While most of the dies work great, the small grommet setter only works if I set the grommet partially with a hand setter first. Will probably still buy the Tandy red press or the Springfield black one, which would have been cheaper in the long run.

Thanks for all the nice comments. I made the black sheath based on kbars for an ex Ranger who doesn't expect to be knife fighting at all, but does have an idea about how he would attach it to his gear in some specialized way. The sheath it came with was horrible, and he cut himself 3 times getting the thing out once. The bowie was for another ex military guy who is a knife fighting expert and I did things just the way he wanted.

It is awkward to get past the keeper. In the future I would ask if the owner wanted a keeper that wraps from the back and is less intrusive. More like this one I did awhile back.

I usually line with pigskin or thin vegtan when width is an issue. When I line with fabric or canvas I always turn under or bind the edges, but this makes for a much thicker item (not wallets). It seems too good to be true to get away without doing that. Wishful thinking.

When people line with fabric, do they fold the edges under so they won't fray?

The owner wanted a left carry. I don't have a picture of the side that will load now. My camera takes pictures that are too large for this website, and I haven't figured out how to resize them.

This is the back side. I had a little machine trouble getting over the thick part on one side, so had to patch that up and finish it by hand. There is some personal text under the paper.

Here it is finished. It feels pretty solid and the knife slides in and doesn't snag at all, so it should be good. Looking forward to seeing the owner's face when he sees it. I don't know how to make photos small enough to fit in one post, sorry.

I probably wasn't clear enough originally. I am thinking it is possible for the blade to be forced through the back of the sheath. Unlikely, I know because the blade's path will be directed. However, this thing is double edged and made to pierce. The blade's owner is not concerned, I just want to do this right.

Thanks for the replies. I am pretty excited about this project and will post a picture when it is finished.

I am using welts out of the 9/10 along the sides. Should I make the sheath double strength as well?

Hello, I am making a sheath for an extremely sharp Cold Steel dagger out of 9/10 oz leather. No kidding this thing is scary sharp. I can imagine it piercing the leather if sheathed rapidly. Any ideas of what would be good to use as a safety lining? Thanks for any ideas

I used a hacksaw, bench grinder, a dremel and some needle files. They didn't really take very long to make. They are crude and fun, and make me appreciate finely made precise stamps. This is what they look like:

My tool addiction is getting out of hand, and I needed space for the stamps I made last weekend. I made a "pocket" to attach to my stamp rack that ought to look kind of nice as a background for project photos in the future.

I tried making stamps from nails and a bolt yesterday for the first time. I wanted right angles for corners and some that were not square shapes. While they are pretty crude, I really like some of them. The "petal" shaped one really surprised me with the star in the center. A couple were no good, but I left them in the picture just to show what doesn't really work, and yes, they should have been made from stainless steel.