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These are all very good ideas, that is what I like about this forum! Unfortunately at the moment I am already trying to do 10 things at once I'll save these ideas for a later day. I have searched all the online sites here in Romania for every term possible. Other than new Chinese machines, and a few expensive used ones, that is all I can find. I'll keep an eye open though, maybe I'll find something! Sometimes I wish I was living back in the US where these machines show up used all the time But I can get better leather here! -Adam

Thanks! This machine does not have one. I had a few scraps wanting to come up, however most of it was taken away with the vacuum. It is a cheap part, I'll order one. -Adam

Yesterday I was able to get the knife sharp and it is skiving great! I was able to skive down to about 0.4mm :). Now just to get a teflon or roller presser foot and some other small parts. The vacuum works pretty good but I need a new filter. I do want to get a new cover for the knife. It makes me nervous having that blade spinning all the time and only half covered! The machine cleaned up nice and I was able to get the covers working pretty good. Is it worth it to get a scrap ejector, or is it a waste of money? Like this one: https://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=15314 Thanks, -Adam

Welcome to the forum! -Adam

@Trox Hmm the lasers might work. I used the double sided tape when I had mine. It was still a mess Changing out dies was not something I looked forward to! You are right, for what most leather worker's need the large flat presses are not needed. I only need one for my logo and then maybe for people's names etc. If money was not object then a Kwikprint, Kingsley, or Metallic Elephant from the UK would be my choice. If I could find a good deal on one in Romania I would but it! They seem to be rare here. -Adam

@trox Thanks for the info. I hope to be looking for a hot foil press soon. Years ago I bought a large flat bed model (from China) when I did printing, wish I still had it! These machines can be picky, the key is the heat, amount of pressure and dwell time. What I did not like about mine was aligning the magnesium logo/type with the work on the bed. The machine just had a flat head and metal table. I used large magnet bars to align the covers I was stamping. It was a pain! When I buy one for leather work I want one with a way of aligning the work on the bed. Also a much easier way of attaching the dies. -Adam

Hello and welcome to the forum! I can't think of any books at the moment. If I do I will try you let you know. I would think making straps (belts etc.) would use very similar technics. Maybe start by researching that. What I can suggest is looking at Abbey England (http://abbeyengland.com). They specialize in selling leather and hardware for harness and bridle. Great resource for the kind of work you want to do. You don't have to be a business with them to get an account. I have ordered from them a few times. I hope someone with bridle/harness experience can help you! -Adam Beautiful photos by the way

Also, as someone once told me "I'm not paying for the leather, I'm paying for your skills." Fine quality leather for a watch strap in reality is the cheap part, it is the skill and time involved that cost... -Adam

@RockyAussie Thanks for the info! You are very creative I like playing with things like this, but like most people my time is very valuable. I will keep playing with my machine and probably buy a roller from China. The 50mm roller from Italy is 178 euro! The 50mm teflon is about 80 euro. I need something because the normal foot can mark some of the leather we use. Either way, I'm learning a lot and think the skiving machine will really help us make the high-end fine wallets we want. It is really a must have tool! Have you ever used the teflon feet? How does it compare to a roller? -Adam

@RockyAussie Thanks! In my machine manual and also online I have seen smaller feed wheels. For example on the Fratelli Alberti website they recommend the 34mm roller with their 34mm feed wheel. If I use it on a 50mm feed wheel the shape may not be right, that was my concern. Thanks for the link! -Adam

I agree, watch straps are not easy. Much harder than it looks I am not sure if there is an advantage between the different styles, probably just personal preference. For me it depends on what the customer wants (rustic, classic, etc.) There are a few different ways to make them. I would suggest doing a YouTube search and see what others are doing. The video My63 suggested is great! I watched the below videos and they helped me understand how they are constructed. Also, look on Instagram, lots of photos of how they are made. -Adam

Can you tell me the width of the roller (the larger one)? I can't seem to find that info anywhere. I know the Fratelli Alberti come in 34mm and 50mm. They are saying the 34mm is best used with a smaller feed wheel... Thanks, Adam

Does anyone in Europe know where I can buy a large (40-55mm) roller foot for my bottom feed skiving machine? I have an Italian Atom. Perphaps someone has an extra they would sell me I would love to find a good used one. I know about Mando in France and Fratelli Alberti in Italy. I am still waiting to hear back from Atom in the UK. The original Italian one (855C) is much more money than I want to pay. Worse case I will order one from China and modify it... On a side note...has anyone used the teflon 50mm foot? How does it compare to a roller foot? Thanks! -Adam

Great! I am not familiar with clutch motors that is why I ask. I would just like to keep in engaged all the time, so when I turn the machine on the blade and vacuum start up immediately. Thanks, -Adam

One quick question: my blade is run by my clutch motor. Can I leave the clutch engaged (by putting a spring on the clutch arm)? Will this hurt the motor/clutch when turning it on and off? Thanks, -Adam

As promised here are some photos of the Ellegi/Atom GL12 skiving machine I bought and the start of the modifications I want to make. The machine was owned by an older couple closing their shoe making shop and was in great condition. The model I bought has two motors: 1 for the vacuum and 1 clutch motor that runs the blade and feed wheel. The feeding speed was much too fast for my use. As I only paid about 200 euro for it I decided I would try to make the feed wheel independent of the blade. I also wanted to be able to finely control the feed speed, for example being able to very slowly feed the leather in and then gradually increase the speed as I skive. I researched every way possible to add a third motor for the feed wheel. There are three ways you can do this (that I can think of): 1. a direct drive servo directly behind the feed wheel as found in some new machines; 2. a motor underneath the feed pulley on the right of the machine; and 3, a motor on the top of the table behind the feed pulley, again on the right of the machine. Option 1 is far beyond most people's abilities, at lest mine! I tried very hard to make option 2 work but could not. My table has upper cross supports, a lower belt guard and a middle sheet metal "wall" between the operator and clutch motor. The only way I might have made this work was to replace the clutch motor with a small servo. I am too cheap to do this! The clutch motor works great so I want to use that for the blade as long as I can. That left me with option number 3 which is what I went with. I found a new Jake JK-513A servo motor for about $105 from a dealer 5 minutes from where I live. This was cheaper and easier than buying a DC or servo motor, the power supplies, controller etc. It is 550W which is much more power than I need, but the price was right. I recommend a motor where the motor, foot controller and power supply are separate. Without that I could not have done this. My table has so many under supports that I need this flexibility. I removed the belt from the main shaft that goes to the feed pulley. I then mount this motor directly behind it on the table top. It took a little bit of playing with the placement of the motor, the foot controller and power supply and it works! Not elegant, but it is doing what I want The feed is now controlled by the foot pedal and servo speed controller and the blade runs continuously. I have used a machine that had a separate clutch for the feed wheel. This offers even better control than that in my very limited experience! If you have space under your table that would be a better option. Here is someone on Instagram who has done this: Here are some photos. I will post some more when I get a chance. I need to cut a slot in the machine belt cover, mount the belt cover on the motor and buy a few parts for the machine. Hope this helps! -Adam

Yes you do have to watch the speed, I have only used it at slow speed (don't want to wake up the neighbors!). When I burnish (which is rare because we use wax edge paint for almost all our products), I use Tokonole which really does not need the dremel. I find a piece of canvas to be enough. I will sometimes use the dremel if I apply wax after burnishing, that needs more heat than I can quickly generate with canvas only. The dremel can also be useful to round and smooth edge paint, but you have to be real careful! We sometimes put a buffing attachment on to help give edges a shine. We use whatever works at the moment -Adam

Good idea I'll keep that mind!

Good idea, I forgot about that. I just made some belt keepers and used a small paper clamp with some leather glued to it. I burnished it by hand and dremel:

I have the same burnisher (two of them). I have a small clamp the will hold my dremel. This would allow you to use it hands free. Here is what I have. It is a for a normal drill but I added a piece of leather so the dremel will fit. I normally use it in my hand and not in the stand. Just be careful not to put too much pressure on it...the shaft on the burnisher is small. -Adam

Very interesting, thanks for posting. Reminds me of some of the printing equipment I have used in the past... It is true that guides, jigs etc. can make life much easier! I learned that doing wood working. -Adam

Thank you anyway, very kind of you! If/when I do any modifications etc. I will start a new post.

I will use the clutch motor currently on the machine to run the blade continuously (at full speed). I would like to remove the belt from the main shaft to the feed wheel and add a small servo motor for the feed wheel. That will give me great control with feeding. My thought was it will be much easier to do this than add a vacuum Plus for what I paid I could not go wrong. -Adam

We also use the Wuta irons, we like them overall (especially for the price and quick shipping!). They are very sharp but I wish the handles were longer and they were heavier. That would greatly help in my opinion. It's a challenge to keep a straight and consistent line of pricking marks from the edge, it does get easier with practice. Some leathers are easier than others to do this. I normally put a crease on the edge and then use that as a guide. Also, for Alran goat or similar leather (with a finish and grain) it is hard sometimes to even see a line made by a divider, that is where using the crease comes in handy. In the photo below I just used the crease as my guide... -Adam

I found a different Ellegi (Atom) model and bought it. It was much less than the other one, I only paid $250 for it! This one is newer (2001), a little better condition, was already converted to 220V, and was used by a older couple closing their shoe making shop. Works great. It has a vacuum but not a continuous running knife. For the price I paid I can easily add a second small servo motor to run the feed wheel. At the moment it is in the back of my van until I can find help to move it (it weighs 113kg!). I'll post a photo once I get it in the shop. Thank you for all your help and advice! -Adam