pete

thanks so much. Those are almost the same specs as mine. I'll just have to find clients with narrower minds and beadier eyes! [ete

Ed- those are REALLY neat. I have made a ton of them myself but have problems at times with the diameter. Seems like I finish a case and the person wants to put sun glasses in them or bi-focals with a large bridge or something. Glasses don't fit or can't flatten enough. Do you have teh same problems? What (if you don't mind) are the specs for your patterns(they all look about the same)? By the way- I LOVE the idea of the last one - looks like you cut a slit across like a holster!!! I AM GOING TO STEAL THAT IDEA_ just wanted to forewarn you. Beautiful work respectfully pete

Just went upstairs since I posted this and lo and behold....I just made another and it's better!!! Didn't wet it as much and I still hand stitched it- record time!! pete

I just spent 2 hours(happily) making a thin pocket holster for myself. My first. It was for a Ruger 380 lcp. All finished and a perfect fit and draw. The leather was still wet from forming (why I wet it I don't know as it was 4oz or so. I wanted to dry it and "cure it" a bit so I put it in the microwave. I set it for 10 seconds and after 2 it shrank to the size of a marble. PLEASE- someone tell me that they have done stupid things like that before!!!! I still have the template so off I go again- ah well.......this is how we learn I am told. pete

Jim- I think that you did a really nice job. Aside from Bob's suggestions, I would have used a littler camo around the basketweave. I usually put the camo impressions at a 45* in the corners first and then do the borders, fudging where I have to. Even when they get a little cramped it still looks good to the eye when the corners are perfect. Just a suggestion. keep it up- you did a fine piece- I'de carry it! pete

All I know is that my Capriolla wade made in the 70's for me wouldn't be here if it had filagree- my chinks, rope and the dirt would have destroyed it years ago. Maybe a "babyied" show saddle could get by depending on where the filagree work was done but I can't imagine where it wouldn't wear, catch dirt, or peel. pete

I had the same problem with letter stamps. I got some play-dough, smoothed it out and got a ruler. Pushed the ruler slightly into it and used the edge as a guide to place the letter like you would letters on a scrabble rack. Pushed in the letters and saw how they lined up butted against each other. Some were fine, others were crooked, etc. Now I want to take them to a grinder and "square them up" but I haven't the energy right now. Plus, wouldn't you think that you should get accurate stuff when you pay for it!!! pete

Hi Davi and welcome. My child bride(15 years next month) and I are going to Scotland for a golfing vacation soon! By the way, that must have been a really ugly elephant- couldn't get a date?? pete

what exactly are you using this concoction for? pete

I do use neats after I tool and dye. I never put it on after antique unless it is an OLD piece(years) that really needs re- oiling. If you oil properly before the final finish then you shouldn't have to oil again. Be careful not to use too much oil though. Just a light application and let it soak in, If it's splotchy then another coat is good to even it out. It's always best to use a little a few times! After the piece is finished you can use shoe polish as I wrote earlier, or something that I like like Bee Natural's RTC. It's a resist and a finish and neutral KIWI shoe polish over it. The "sheen" products work well I've heard but I keep it simple. tool on! pete

yes you can- and welcome! That's the way it is normally done. oil the piece when you have finished, let it dry, dye the piece, let it dry, and apply a resist, let it dry, and apply antique. (let it dry!) then buff and apply finish- I like neutral shoe polish for many things. pete

I don't have a picture but I was always hesitant about which flower center to use on my pieces. I took a piece of scrap about 1*3" and stamped all my centers in a row, numbered them with a sharpie and put a piece of scotch tape around the tools and numbered them too. I put them in order in my tool block and placed the leather behind it. Scotch magic tape and a sharpie works great , doesn't rub off, and makes tool decisions easy. pete

is this 2 wallet designs or does one fit inside the other? THe one is stitched and the other isn't. The stitch part requires you to fold the paper money (not wide enough) Can't picture the final look. pete

taper the tip of your lace. Screw it in all the way- remove and cut the tip of the lace to where the threads start to show. Then screw it in again- it won't come out and no glue needed. pete

Got to thinking this morning. Has anyone EVER used a steel on their head knife? It made (mental) sense to me to put a great edge on it and then true up the final edge. after all, a steel lines up the edge so why not a head knife? ANYONE.......ANYONE? and if so why not?? pete

only tooling for 4 weeks???????? hmmmmmmmmmmm.......... care to come clean? what is your previous line of work/talent?

Springfield leather in Missoouri. pete

what is it and what's it for? Maybe it too intensive or costly to do it that way. And maybe it's not strong enough constructed that way. Share the project if you want to. pete

sounds like you may have ordered latigo or something treated. What DID you order? pete

Curious- If you had one weight maul to use on everything except saddle work(12-16 oz.) what would you feel comfortable with? pete

I'm in hot, humid Arkansas. I finish EVERYTHING with RTC as well as use it for a resist. You won't be sorry. Call Kevin at Springfield or call Chan Geer if you need proof. It's odorless, dries really quickly, and you can almost slop it on versus carefully like so many other products. pete

2 good coats of Bee- Natural RTC with a sponge. You're done! pete

post a picture. LOT'S of good help here. pete

just tie a simple crown knot and singe lightly with a lighter. It will melt the nylon and wont come loose. pete

do a rubbing with carbon paper or charcoal and trace the outlines. pete