Srigs

Good looking rig! Have you sent it to your client yet? If yes, how do they like it?

Sure does look good and functional. How does it carry?

Nice looking rig!

Very cool connection solution and color is unique. Keep the holsters coming.

When starting out with a pancake style holster. Stitch one side (top side- leave room for the sight to go in and out), then cold wet mold lightly, this will tell you where to stitch the bottom side, and then take the gun out and squish it flat then compare to the gun and you will see what it takes for that gun to leave around the edges. From there, it is experience on how much to leave. Starting out do 3/4" and handle any differences via hot wet molding.

Greg, All in all a great job with limited tools. Adding another stitch line on the inside of the belt loops my or maynot be needed but it can't hurt. Not bad belt slots based on a knife only to make them. Your approach to stitching one side and then cold wet molding to stitch the other side is the same way I do my flat backside holsters. I like the design and wonder what type of belt loop is on the mag carrier. Keep up the good work and some more tools will help. This is how I started so the sickness might get you caught up in making holsters for friends and family.

No kidding. Wow real carpet. Do you dye in there?

Check these folks out. Cheaper than Copquest and very good customer service for Blue and Red guns. Elite Tactical - Check out the Training section

Looks good. How does it work and carry?

Looks good. Much better than my 3rd holster. I like the dyeing job. Are you hot wet molding? Couple of suggestions. 1. I like to leave ~1/2 between the belt slot and out side edge of the leather. 2. The back belt slot could be closer to the trigger guard 3. To make the belt slots easier you can take a round 1/4 or 3/16" hole punch for the top and bottom and then cut between the two holes. Keep posting the work because it looks good and functional.

The leather is ~6 oz, finish is Fiebings USMC Black, top coat is Resolene cut 50/50 with water and used heavy duty aluminum flashing for reinforcement. The reinforcement was molded after installation during the hot wet forming. Liveneasy, your right the leather loop is stitched between the pancake leather and the loop is also riveted to the outside piece of leather. I used pull the dot fasteners.

A customer wanted a couple changes to my normal Double Snap/Clip holster so I added a reinforcement leather and metal piece. I think it turned out very good and my customer is happy so all is good. The gun is a Kel-tec PF9.

Nice job on the holster. It looks very professional and functional. How does you friend like it?

I use to hand awl stitch but I perfer to not bleed that much The best way I have found to get good stitching lines is via 3 prong rectangle punch and mallet. I don't care for rubber cement myself but contact works for me after planing on distance from the gun. The punching the stitching lines is the last hole punched is used by one of the prongs to line up for the next punch so net you add two new holes... keep doing that until your done stitching. I like thicker waxed thread myself because it fills the punched holes and holds very well. Note: Remember to plan on what to do first, second and third stitching assemblies so you don't allow you to add the leather loop for belt attachment. That would never happen to me The paper form is very important and make it bigger than you need. I use to cold wet form the loose piece of leather around the gun (with plastic wrap) and that gives you a good idea where the stitching line needs to be. Use the contact cement, lightly draw where the stitching lines are going, stitch and lastly cut the excess leather. Finish the edges, hot wet form (hot tape water), dry, dyeing and top coat. Hope this helps. :D

Hot wet forming (dunking the stitched holster in hot tap water is how I do it), forming process (pressing and hand boning) and then air drying before dyeing. Once dried it will be stiff, then dyeing the holster will stiffen it up and lastly the top coat will finish the process. The thicker the leather the harder the leather will become. Rub off is not a huge problem as long as you buff off any extra. I don't buy pre-dyed leather.

Nice job with that holster and belt. Looks well made and I would love to own it but would need to get a SA gun.

Nice job on those. Looks very well made and good looking to boot. I'm sure the new owners will like them.

You can add a new belt loop about half way to the trigger guard and see if that makes a difference (which it should like boomstick said). Let us know how it works. Keep making holsters.

Looks like a good start and we need to see the finshed product. Ask questions! :D

Yep. Thats the ones I purchased.

I had the same problem so I sent them back to Sailrite and found Dot Fasteners Direct and get the .295 posts which are in the normal snap area. Twice the quanity for the same price.

Nice looking full rig. Perfect for open carry and BQ duty!

I agree. A regular sewing machine will teach you the basics that is nearly the same. From that stepping up for a 3000 is just more poweful and you need to plan better. Good luck and keep asking questions.

Looks like a great choice for your needs and Artisan does a great job on customer service.

You can post pictures of your design before you cut the leather and ask for suggestions. We will be glad to help. With 4-5 oz is a bit light IMHO but two layers or two layers over the opening area and attachment area would work well. I like 7-8 oz myself and single or double shoulders work great. 7-6 or maybe 5 oz for IWB/pocket will work great. Keep up the good work and ask questions.