Srigs

Here is my two cents. 1. Tandy is a good choice. 2. Buy the best leather you can afford. Starting out single or double shoulders are a good choice. 3. Once the holster is formed and the edges are rounded over. I generally dye the holster and let dry. Then take and wet the edge and use some type of smooth surface to rub the edges with. I use and like deer antler or you can chuck up a piece of 1/2 oak dowl to help speed it up. I know people have used a lexan rod an others. 4. MacMasters 5. Depends on what you think is right and trial and error. Minimum is ~1" then you can cut it down. Hope this helps.

Boomstick covered many of them. One improvement that you can modify the existing holster is to cut the "side guard" to the shape of the bottom of the slide grip area. This way the leather does not get in the way of the griping the gun. If you end up making right handed holsters you will need to miss the mag release. Hope this helps, Erik

You just named the holster. The Bikini IWB! Looks very well made and functional. You could market it directly to women and would have a leg up on most holster makers.

I would recommend Resolene cut 50/50 with water. It is an acrylic finish that drys tough and fully protects the holster. I dip the holsters in the solution remove the drips and let dry over night. Hope this helps.

I always had challenges with snap setting. So I took some profits and bought a setter machine and a snap set for line 24s. Much easier. For the hand models, having a firm platform for the hammering helps. I used a concrete floor with good results compared to my wooden work table.

Thanks Kevin!

I tried that a few times and it became a non-starter. I switched over to a 1 and 3 rectangle punch with hammer/mallet solution that is much easier to line up and get good results with. Some people might think it is slower but for me it is not and very easy to do.

Customer service is king in our business. Offering lots of options has a very real positive affect on how you are viewed. I have had a couple of people who did not like the holster for some reason and took it back gladly... they ended up getting something else and generally some additional items and became happy customers. So in the end, you need to determine if what the customer is asking will cause your product not to function safely. If it won't be safe, I won't sell/make it. I have had a time or too where thinking, "Why in the heck would they want to do that!" I end up making it for them and they love it but I would never be able to resell it without modification. If it is one that won't be able to be resold, I make it with a no return or 1/2 price for restocking fee. Good example for me is one customer that I have made several holsters for with out exact forms for. I gather all the dimensions of the gun, check my forms inventory and see is something is close. If not, look around the house to make my own forms for it. I have another order coming from this customer which is #5 so I can't complain

Good customer service is worth it's wait in gold. Any reason you won't post the "good" business here for all to see?

Good looking rig and can't wait to see the finished product. John is right beveling the edges will help it hold up much better. By the way, which gun is that made for?

I picked up some regular T-nuts at Menards last night for one of my custom projects but not black that is for sure. You could use black automotive paint on the zink t-nuts to change the look. If someone finds a source, I would be interested also in a share of them.

Randy we do need some pics! I use the 1" rubber in a wood working vice that does a good job for 80% of the forming I need to have done. Clicker use would be something in the future I would like to do.

My process is very similar to Rhome and Shorts. I use 7/8 for OWB and 6/7 IWB. I stitch with Toro 3000 because it saves the fingers and is much faster.

John had a good suggestion. I use Fiebings Resolene cut 50-50 with water and then dip it to cover inside and out. First buff off any extra black dye from the holster.

I use that for my brown color. I really like it and is unique in the industry.

Fantastic look. I love the diamond insert... that is very cool.

I do stitching both ways pre-molded and non-molded. Pre-molded is for when the back piece of leather is flat and top curved. Non-molded is for pancake style or pocket style (folding over the leather) holsters. Generally Non-molded is easier and faster needless to say.

The customer is always right.

Nope do it the old fashion way with paper and trial and error. ACAD does not take into account the necessary bends and true shape of the leather IMHO.

Good looking holsters. The cross draw looks promising solution for you and sounds like it works.

You should do Itemized deductions. I did even before I started my business. Now it is manditory IMHO. If you have a concern do the taxes both ways and you will see.

Another good source for a rubber pound board is horse stall mats. Don't laugh (I have horses) and the work great for punching holes and protecting your tools.

Do what I did... Go to a local tool and die technical school and have them make one for you. Mine turned out great and I helped a student learn how to do the work. Win-Win for everyone. Took about 6 weeks from start to end and was priced right.

When I need to do some hand work, I use a 1, 3 or 4 rectangle punch that makes it easy compared to diamond shape and don't like drilled at all. It is also very hard to cut your hand open unlike an awl

Wow is all I can say. I could never do that even with an art and architecture background.