Evo160K

Colt W Knight, Thanks for your estimate and for your thoughts. I feel fairly clear now on how to proceed. As a rule, I don't get involved in things I don't understand, in this case it's not too expensive and it's extremely interesting.

Constabulary, Turns out the handbook in the Adler drawer is for a Singer 29K60. That sort of makes sense, since the 29K model looks similar to the Adler 30-15, perhaps some of the parts and instructions are similar. I'm sure you know the answer to that. I'm told the Adler is working and sews, I didn't try it, because I didn't want to take a chance of damaging it. In the drawer were several packages of small parts, needles ,small tools, bobbins, several shuttles and I believe a bobbin winder. I took an electric extension cord with me and plugged in the Singer, the 1/3 hp motor sounds smooth and the clutch must work, because when I pulled the arm on the motor down, the machine ran and the needle moved up/down. Each pulley has several grooves for selecting different speeds. The treadle appears to be disconnected. There were no additional parts or literature around the machine. Do you happen to know what the A222 on the Singer represents? Thanks again for posting the manuals.

Thank you Constabulary, thank you very much. Those manuals are going to help tremendously. If the gentleman lets me take the handbook before I buy the machines, I will definitely scan and post it. If not and we make a deal, of course, I'll scan and post it. I'll be seeing the machines again this afternoon.

Constabulary, Darren Brosowski and Silverbullet, thank you, thank you very much. That's exactly the information I need. I'll look at the machines again, see what additional parts are present and report back. There is an original Singer handbook in the Adler drawer along with other items, but I didn't look closely. Hopefully the handbook is for the Singer 45. Would you know the significance of the "A222" plate on the Singer? Constabulary, I would appreciate any documentation that you have on either machine. Thank you and thank you for letting me know about your bobbin winder.

One is a Singer 45K25 A222 serial number EC636333, the other is an Adler 30-15 serial number 101027. They're being offered to me by a gentleman who saw the Claes 8345 long-arm patcher I'm restoring for myself. He thinks the two have some issues, but doesn't know what. A price hasn't been discussed. I don't sew and I don't know anything about the two machines, although the Adler looks similar to the machine I'm restoring. I'm doing it because I admired the looks. It was used in the business where I worked for years. Well it quickly became apparent they can become a money pit. If I can re-sell the two as is, that's fine, I turned them over by hand, which doesn't tell me much. The Adler felt similar to my machine, but the Singer shocked me by how tight and smooth it is. I'd like to keep that machine just for the quality, but that wouldn't make sense. They must be exceptional machines. Realistically, it would be a mistake for me to try to restore them judging by the difficulty and time involved with the Claes, although it is shaping up well. Your thoughts on what I should pay for them and what I can do with them would be much appreciated. TIA..

You're welcome. The people on this site speak highly of that machine. How extensively do you get involved with motorcycle seats? I've done a couple for myself starting from a factory pan and have had them covered by others. My goal was twenty-four hour (iron butt) comfort.

I like it. Also like the finish on the leather. What machine did you use?

Thanks one and all, I appreciate your thoughts and suggestions. Turns out McMaster.com has a pack of 10 for $5.82 plus freight, that's more palatable. Constabulary: Yes, it is for that patcher. I would have used a roll pin like you suggested.....good idea. Thank you.

It may come to buying 25, but that kind of excess just goes against my nature.

While reassembling an older machine that I took apart to clean, I managed to ruin one of the taper pins. Honestly, the beer had nothing to do with it! I found a couple of companies that have them, but only sell them in bags of 25. The pin is a DIN 1 metric 3mm x 22mm. Would anyone know where I can buy that size taper pin individually or in a smaller quantity? Thank you.

Pcox, You're absolutely correct, now that I think about it. I'm going to leave it the way it is as SARK9 suggested and see how it runs once we get it back together.

Constabulary, Thanks for the compliment. Silverbullet, Pcox. The pulleys are locked to either side of another piece that has a 5/8" bore. The pulleys have about a 1-1/4" bore (I was wrong when I said 5/8"). Thanks all.

Is a smaller sheave available to fit this speed reducer? The smaller one in the picture is about 3-1/2" OD. Note the number 60484 and the letter "M" on the sheave. The pulley bore is 5/8". This reducer is on a 8345-30 claes machine we're restoring. The guard (not shown) on the reducer has a Singer decal and the whole assembly is extremely heavy.

Hi Gonnate , Tossing this out for what it's worth, may spark an idea. When we put a leather cover on a Harley seat, we lap the pieces like roofing shingles, so the water runs across the seam rather than catching in the seam. Btw we put a good quality poly film between the leather and the padding. On raingear seams I use Atsko rain-guard silicone spray. They've been doing it since 1933, I like it.

Pastor Dwight, Thank you for the good wishes. I appreciate it. Thank you also for the thread information. It's reassuring to learn thread strength is not as much of a consideration with today's quality threads as is the look of the thread. That might have taken me a while to learn on my own. Charter, Thanks for the spring clip explanation. I'll get some.

Charter, That's exceptional information! Thanks so much. I know you spent a great deal of time putting that reply together and I appreciate it. Thank you. I'll need to read it several more times to really absorb it. Hopefully you've helped me avoid some of the mistakes beginners make. By the way, what is a "spring clip"? Thanks again, Charter. johnv474, What model Claes do you have? I've run into a small puzzle trying to get the correct replacement spring for a broken one in the needle bar assembly. My model is an 8345 and there are three springs in it...........that's if they're all original.......the machine is 40 years old. The replacement spring that came in is 9 mm in diameter and is much larger in diameter than the three in the machine. Since I don't have the 8345 parts list I have no idea if it's correct or how many should be in there. The 8346 parts list shows only two springs, if I'm translating the German correctly, and one is 9 mm in diameter. Do you know anything about the 8345? Thanks very much.

Johnv474, That helps, makes good sense. Thank you. Are you able to suggest a source where I can learn more about the relationship between the fabric characteristics and the thread choice? " There is a debate about whether you want thread too strong--you may prefer a seam to break than for leather to tear." This comment tangentially reminds me of a requirement we had to meet for boots worn around molten metal. The sole thread and other thread had to hold up for a number of seconds in case of an accidental immersion, but the laces had to burn through instantly to let the wearer "kick off" the hot boot. Thanks again.

Constabulary, Speaking of Singers, did you see that wonderful old film in the Scottish Film Archive titled "The Birth of a Sewing Machine"? All about Singer, an amazing machine, I was blown away. http://ssa.nls.uk/film/1592

Constabulary, Thank you for your reply. I appreciate your knowledge and opinion. When I asked about value, I should have been more specific. I see the machine as a piece of art and plan to keep it. I was concerned painting would hurt the "historical" value, like refinishing a gun often hurts the historical value. I'll leave the machine as is, like you suggested. Thanks again.

Thank you Constabulary for the link. I contacted them. Thank you also for the heads-up on the shortcoming of the Google Translate program. I'll probably have to make some explanatory comment and apology at the onset of future translated messages so as not to offend someone. Anne Bonnys Locker, the machine has cleaned up well, but there are some places where the paint is missing. They're not from ordinary wear, which I would think acceptable, more like being banged into with furniture and etc. Would repainting hurt the value of the machine? Thank you both.

While researching how to restore a Claes sewing machine, I came across a number of general comments on thread selection. The most frequent comment was, the thread selection is determined by the material being sewn and the needle size is then determined by the thread and size selected. Being new to sewing, sewing machines and this fine website, may I please ask: what specifically are the major factors to consider when selecting a machine thread for any material and for leather material in particular? I'd like to understand the reasoning that goes in to the choice Thank you, thank you very much.

Bohikeman, Having spent over 30 years in the glove business, may I suggest you consider talking with your local industrial safety supply distributor about your glove requirement? They will have a large and varied selection for you to try-on and consider----leather, cotton, vinyl, nitrile, plastic, gunn cut, clute cut, gloves, mittens------even hand pads. They'll be far less than you will pay in a retail store. That's not to discourage you from making your own, just easier and faster.

Agree with Cyberthrasher, if the foam is good, just replace the cover. It can be a pattern. If the stock seat is vinyl like most oem covers, he'll appreciate the leather you intend to use. It'll be warmer in winter and cooler in summer. I always put a piece of tough plastic film just under the cover to keep any water that gets through the needle holes from reaching the padding. Consider lapping your seams like roof shingles to help the water run off. If the seam is made the other way, water will collect at the seam and soak through.

This machine has a metal plate fastened to the front with the name Pilgrim Shoe and Machine Co and the model number 200-3. Pilgrim told us recently it is a Claes 8345-30 large bobbin machine manufactured by Textima. They also told us it was marketed in the United States with the Textima, Claes or Tuffy label. There must be something to that because I notice several of the larger equipment suppliers like Landis and Shoe Systems Plus show the same parts numbers for Textima, Claes and Tuffy. In any case, the machine was purchased by my company in used but excellent condition 30 years ago. It was used perhaps one day a month for 20 years to patch leather safety garments and attach aluminized Kevlar sleeves to molten metal protective mittens and Gloves, it sewed with Kevlar thread beautifully. Thirteen years ago the business and machine were sold. I doubt the machine was even used after that, because the woman who had operated it had retired and no one else had any knowledge of how to operate it. There was no operators manual or literature. Three years ago the buyer moved out of the building we had leased to them and left the machine behind saying it was broken and that part was no longer available, apparently someone inexperienced had tried to operate it. We sold the building and the machine three years after that.. I wanted the machine at that time; I had always admired it, but didn't act on it. It's a beautiful, well made and attractive machine.......like a piece of art, something old-timers like me (and others no doubt) appreciate. I still ride a 1990 Harley-Davidson with 240,000 miles on it that I bought new. Well, a few months ago the attraction became too great, and I purchased the machine back. Unfortunately the lady who had operated the machine all of those years, along with her husband, died in a motorcycle accident, may they rest in peace. So here's the situation: first, my only experience sewing was in high school cuffing trousers, second, I don't know a thing about industrial sewing machines and third, I intend to refurbish this machine. To that end I've spent hours doing research on this fine website. I've taken scores of pictures, I've pulled it completely apart, taking pictures along the way and I've cleaned it totally. The teeth on the rack and the shuttle driver look perfect, the end play in the main long shaft between the pulley wheel and the feed cam is .004", and after I figured out how to thread and adjust the machine, it seemed to sew well............that remains to be seen though. I don't see anything broken except for a small spring in the large cylinder that holds the needle bar and feed mechanism. That piece is on order. By the way, in doing research, I had occasion to send a few emails to Europe, but needed to do them in German. I stumbled on to Google Translate. For those of you who haven't used it, it's miraculous, I've bookmarked it. You type a message in to it in any language you choose (English in my case) and it gives you a translation in any language you choose. Also, if you can copy and paste text into it and tell it what language you're putting in and what language you want out (again English in my case), you'll get it. Hope it helps someone looking for parts or trying to translate an old operator or repair manual. What I would like to ask good people is: 1) what suggestions do you have to do the restoration properly? 2) should the machine be re-painted or left as is? 3) would anyone have any literature of any type for this machine? Thank you, thank you very much.