Evo160K

The presser feet in the picture are being offered to me along with some Singer 45K parts I'm buying. The feet don't fit the Singer 45K25 I'm restoring, so I'm not going to buy them unless someone here on LW wants them. I'm told they fit a Singer machine. Can anyone identify what they fit? Does anyone need them?

Thanks for letting us know.

Hi Jimi, Thank you for your thoughts. The wife is due back today. I'll do the video, hopefully it will show you professionals what's causing the breakage. I'm really curious about it. Best regards

Hi Jimi, That's an excellent question, although somewhat above my pay grade. The spec sheet for the thread identifies it as a "Z" twist (Right Hand twist). You no doubt know about twist. I looked it up on the Juki website, http://www.juki.com.sg/Libary/Knowledge_of_The_Sewing_Thread.pdf , and found: Twist direction - Direction of twist is identified as S for left twist and Z for right twist. Most single needle lock stitch and other machines are designed for Z twist threads. S twist thread untwists during stitch formation. Direction of twist does not affect the strength of the thread, but it can seriously impair its performance when it is used on a machine for which it is not suited. Jimi, it's interesting the 45K manual you posted says best results are obtained by using LH twist in the needle and RH in the shuttle. That was probably written before poly and nylon thread were introduced. What's your thinking on the matter? Thanks Jimi. Best regards,

Frank, Darren, Sark9, Thank you for your thoughts. Being new to these fascinating old machines, I particularly appreciate every word you write. Coincidently, Frank, the fiberglass thread I'm dealing with is from the w. f. lake company....excellent products. It's their R-753-24 that I'm using, and it does have a PTFE coating, it's supposed to reduce friction. Isn't PTFE the same as "Teflon." I can't envision using this thread any more, particularly in leather, but out of interest and curiosity want to understand what's making it break. The bonded poly and bonded nylon work fine. When the wife returns with her iphone in a few days from visiting the grandkids, I'll shoot a video showing the machine, the loop and how the thread is breaking. It's an interesting puzzle! With the bobbin tension, since it sews perfectly without material, would it change with material? I've contacted Superior threads about their titanium coated needles, thanks for the link, Frank. If they have system 328 needles, I'm going to buy a package. They say they're only $ .20 more than a regular needle. SARK9, having a dedicated machine for a thread would be nice. I understand you professionals do that. Back when we were sewing safety clothing with fiberglass and Kevlar thread, we could justify only the one machine, the Claes 8345. As a side bar, our company was the first in the country to sew with Kevlar thread. Many years ago when we saw the Kevlar fabric in DuPont's booth at a trade show, we asked DuPont for some of the Kevlar thread and immediately passed it on to the Hy-Test safety shoe division of International Shoe Co to be tested in the Potroom and Ingot boots (read: molten metal) they were making for us for Aluminum Company of America, (Alcoa). The Kevlar thread turned out to be a huge success because of its high temperature and strength properties. It is hard on sewing machines however. Thank you one and all.

Thanks Frank, The thread has a diameter of .015" (.39 mm). The thread has been breaking with 19 through 23 needles in 8 oz.. With a 24 needle, it sewed fine in 8 oz veg, but broke in 12 oz. With a 26 needle it sewed perfectly in both the 8 oz and 12 oz. What does that tell us? Thanks Darren, I will lower the needle bar a touch. What's your thinking there?

Frankqv, Constabulary, Thank you, I will try a larger needle. Constabulary, I do wrap the thread 1-1/2 times around the moving pulley wheel. Jimi set me straight on that. Thanks for mentioning it. I'll also ease both tensions a bit, but one at a time. Recently. I tested the fiberglass thread's strength with a fishing scale to a breaking strength of 12 pounds, that's close to a 92 thread and should easily handle an 8 ounce veg tanned leather. The way the thread is being chopped up in so many places, I don't think the thread is at fault. hyttogpine, Amazing is a good choice of words. Constabulary and many other experienced sewers on LW are a wealth of knowledge and experience, plus they're willing to help---great people. I wouldn't even attempt a restoration with out them. I don't know enough about the 29-4 to answer your question. Others will need to jump in.

Hi Constabulary, Project is moving slowly but surely forward. I have most of the majors parts thanks to some great people here on LW. Haven't tried the decals yet. Plan is to get the machine sewing well, which for the most part it is, then pull it apart for cleaning and painting. Do you have any parts that I can use on the 45K25? Have a small issue that I'm trying to solve. The machine sews well with all threads except a high temperature fiberglass that we used to use in our business. It's about a 138 with a tensile strength of 12 pounds. Issue is it sews for a couple of stitches, sometimes just one, then breaks the top thread, looks like the thread has been hacked partially through multiple times with a dull knife. It will sew fine without material, but not with material (leather). I can't figure out where it's being hacked. I looked and polished every part I can get to, the tensions seem fine and the automatic thread controller loosens the thread just before it enters the leather.....it's a mystery. I've asked one of the sewing machine mechanics at a large, local, sewing manufacturing operation to stop by for a look. The listing you put on eBay for the Singer 105-6 was outstanding, you do have a talent for it. I don't need the 29K71 but I will buy it if the freight isn't too high, it's about 1,000 miles from me. Best regards

Hi Daniel G., Certainly seems like a good price. Would you pack and ship it to Indiana? I would pay the charges of course. What type of TLC does it need?

Simran, Would you please keep us posted on your progress and result? Sure would like to know if it will work. That's good thinking to keep the original parts, so you can reverse and go back to the original. Love that machine and stand, please think of me if you ever plan to part with it. Regards. @Constabulary, Thanks for posting the picture. Did you see the picture of the Adler 104? where they were using two needles with the two roller feet? That setup must turn on a dime? (You probably know a dime is the smallest US coin in physical size.)

Simran, Here are pictures of my feed dogs, needle plates and feet. The larger plate and the larger foot I fabricated. Those illustrated parts list I posted above will answer a lot of questions. You'll see some of the 45k dogs and plates are straight like your k69. I know the dogs will fit in your shuttle driver feed raising cam, not sure if they'll work in the k69 needle plates though. Simran, what's preventing you from using the K69 like a K21 for instance now? You may find this interesting, it explains the differences among the 45K series machines: http://www.1stinfantrydivision.de//images/stories/PDF_Dateien/Singer%2045K%20Descriptions%20of%20Subclasses.pdf As a side bar here, notice the way the smaller needle plate is shaped, some of it is higher than the other. I couldn't understand why the previous owner of the machine used the roller presser foot and the regular, smaller, presser foot together on that needle plate. Then yesterday I was reading about stirrup plates and saw they have a higher portion also, I suspect to help guide the stirrup smoothly past the needle. That got me to thinking maybe the previous owner who repaired athletic equipment (helmets, shoulder pads, curved items, etc.) may have fabricated that plate to work similar to a stirrup plate. If Simran doesn't mind, does anyone have a thought on that?

Constabulary, Simran The part numbers for the K69 and K25 presser foot bars are the same. I believe the two machines feed differently though, so the presser feet are different. For what it's worth, the shuttle race part numbers are the same also, 91451. The shuttles are different however as are the shuttle driver and feed raising cam. I'm guessing the "jumping mechanism or gripping mechanism, whatever it's called" could be taken off the K69, the K25 type foot used with the K25 feed dog, and a proper fitting needle plate fabricated as necessary. Of course the shuttle driver feed raising cam would have to cooperate. Simran, you might pop a K25 feed dog in your machine and see how things look. To change out your shuttle driver feed raising cam, shuttle and what ever else is required to convert to a K25 type, might cost more than it's worth. Recall I'm a novice talking, so check everything I've said.

Amuckart, That's was a tremendous effort on your part as well as an extremely generous thing to do for the trade. I for one thank you, and I'm sure others do as well.

Simran, That's one fine looking machine and treadle stand you have there! From a novice who's done some research finding parts to restore a 45K25 cylinder arm machine, I can offer the following: The Feed Dog Carrier, part number 91160, in the K69 and K25 are identical. That tells me the K25 feed dogs (and others in that series) will fit in your machine. Also, the 91163 Feed Rock shaft is used in both machines. Whether the K25 feed dogs (and others in that series) will line up with your presser foot and feed material properly is another question, others may know. Since the needle plate part numbers are different, the K25 are curved, and the K69 appear to be flat, I suspect you will need to fabricate a needle plate. That's not difficult though, I did a curved one recently. You'll find more information in the reference sources I used: http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERPARTS2/45K68,K69,K71.pdf http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/SINGERPARTS2/45K21,%2045K25,%2045K63,%20&%2045K78.pdf Simran, if you ever decide to part with your machine and stand, please let me know. I would be very pleased to have it or even just the stand to go with the K25 I'm restoring. Best of luck with the project.

TinkerTailor, Your four points sure makes sense to me, I'm old enough to remember that type of helmet and sports equipment, might have even worn one or two. You may be interested to know, I bought the machine from a company that specializes in sports equipment repair. Thank you very much for your input.

Amuckart, It just dawned on me, I was watching an internet YouTube video recently that you made. You were demonstrating the shuttle movement in a 45K25. You said the machine had a couple of millemeters movement in each direction and referred to it as slop. Would you mind explaining what the proper movement should be in the machine, what problems excessive movement causes and what if anything should be done to correct excessive movement? My 25K has 0.1 mm movement in each direction, I have no idea if that's okay or too tight. Thank you Amuckart.

Amuckart, Like you, I hope to find an original treadle stand one day that I can afford. That's the one piece that's been evading me. Would you know the Singer part number for the complete treadle stand? I think that part number would help the search. Thanks a lot. Btw I checked my timing using the instructions and it seems to be real close. I may lower the needlebar a hair to let the hook enter the loop more toward the top rather than toward the bottom as it is now. Curious to see what that will do. Thanks again.

Thanks for the link to Danguman, really interesting ideas and machines. .Did you happen to see this video from him? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7lyTRB0XHU Looks like he set that cylinder arm machine up to sew/pulse one stitch at a time, or is that option available on some machines. I'm impressed..

Constabulary, Amuckart, thank you very much for your replies. You can be certain I'll pay careful attention to every word you've written. Constabulary, you and I have exchanged emails in the past, and you no doubt recall the taper pin I damaged while restoring the Claes. You have reason to be concerned about my skill level. I appreciate the caution on my behalf. Amuckart, thank you also for that detailed description, I learned a tremendous amount. My machine was manufactured in 1940 and does have the screw where the shuttle driver attaches to the back end of the shaft, the screw in your picture. Since it also has the two screws on the block the needle bar passes through, which is the preferred location to use to time the needle and hook? It would sure be good to have a copy of the service mechanic's documentation for the 45K machine. I looked once in the Smithsonian library archives with no success. I wonder if there's a copy out there somewhere! My needlebar has a small hole and two punch like dimples on the side opposite the needle clamp screw. Do those have something to do with timing? Here's a picture: Amuckart, I'll study the machine in light of what you've said, check the timing and report back. Thanks again for your help.

Finding components and information for the 45K25 I'm restoring has been a challenge. I believe everything obvious that was missing from the outside is now present. A number of fine members here on LW have helped tremendously. Thank you Constabulary, Singermania,, Jimi, Shoepatcher, Darren Brosowski, Colt W Knight, Frankqv and anyone I overlooked. The next step is disassembly. Would someone be able to explain how or direct me to a good set of Singer instructions for timing the needle and hook? The machine seems to be sewing well at the moment. I've searched LW and haven't found anything that discusses how to do it. Recall I'm new to sewing and restoring these honorable old machines. Thank you very much

New Information The 14554 Shuttle Race above fits Singer Model 11-29, perhaps others

Thanks to LW member Singermania, I now have a very nice Oil Box or Wax Pot as most call it. Thanks Steve.

Here's a recent picture from shoepatcher (Glenn) showing the new 969 Durkopp/Adler on the right versus the older 205.

Machinehead, It seemed to figure that you had some exposure to shoe making. Good stuff making orthotics. Big Sioux Saddlery, Thanks for correcting my mistake.

Jimi, Those documents are sensational, just incredible!! Where did you find them? Can you image what those prices equate to today?