sfcdan

Thanks for the feed back on the machine. I was curious to see how it worked but again all I saw were company videos.

I own both a clone 441, and a Tippman. I first purchased the Tippman, and I loved to hate it. Once I figured out all the quirks, it became easy to trouble shoot all the temperamental issues. The one thing I hated and still do, is the short throat that everyone is talking about. A few years later I purchased a clone 441, which I’ve onwed for 11 years now with no issues whatsoever. My goal was to get rid of the Tippman, keeping the clone alone. After using both for a bit I realized both had advantages over the other so I decided to keep both. I like the fact that I can get closer to an edge with a Tippman, but I also love the fact that I can stitch faster and more accurately with the clone. If you must get one, probably the 3200, you won’t miss the smaller details the Tippman can do, but if I were you, I would save my money for a 4500. This has a bigger clearance throat than both. I’ve written several times to Tippman inquiring if they’re gonna make a 9” Boss, but so far the answer has been no. I think it’s messed up that Tippman, stopped Tandy from making the 9” Boss clone, only to let it die. Good luck, any PD the machines mentioned will work.

If you're looking for that specific size and width, your best bet is to have one made. I've had several tools and dies made by Texas Custom Dies, they're on this site.

It's a little over my budget, but it gave me an idea of how to make my own, tnks for posting.

Very nice, how much did it cost you?

I normally do something similar to Bruce, but a bit different. I usually go to Tap Plastics, I have them cut me a piece of plastic. I usually get the cheap plastic, but it has to be at least 3/16 thick. I then mark holes where I need marking. This is very efficient for repetitive work. As far as chisels, I like Bruce's idea. Good luck with your productivity. Daniel

When I first got my punch, it was hard to punch through thick leather. I purchased a 3 ton arbor press with a hole in the center of the ram and this tool made my job easier. I also use the arbor press to punch letters on the leather and it cosst about the same price as the Tandy letter press.

Texas Custom Dies, they made a custom 2.5" for me 3 years ago. The tool still looks new. quote name='JoelR' timestamp='1316479711' post='214241'] Anyone know of a source of oblong punches (bag punches for the search engines) in a suitable size for gun-weight belts of 1 1/2" width. I currently use the two round punches and a chisel method but would like the speed and consistency of a punch. Only issue I have seen is the 1 5/8" punches are only about 3/16" wide and I have found that 3/8" is a better size.

I have stamps from 3 different makers. Laser Gift Creations have been by far the best, least expensive, with the quickest turn around.

Old Timer nice job. I'm finding myself with a similar dilemma, I'd like to add a motor, but I'm finding out that most of the motors out there are the small .9 volt ones. If you don't mind, what type of motor did you use, and where did you get it? Thanks, D. Valencia.

I just want to say thanks for the information guys. I actually purchased Velcro without adhesive, it will take time to get used to it since I liked the convenience of sticky Velcro, but I haven't given up on it completely. I think I will try the silicone bath, or the oil. Thanks again, Sincerely, D. Valencia.

I bought my first 441 clone in 2008. Along with the machine, I purchased 277 thread, and a two inch sticky velcro that came in 15 foot rolls, from Home Depot. I used the sticky velcro on leather until this year when I finally ran out of the roll that I purchased in 2008. Surprisingly, I also ran out of the 277 thread. I purchased a new roll of 277 thread, and a new roll of sticky velcro to continue sewing the velcro onto the leather. The problem I'm having now with the new combo, is that the needle is picking up the glue from the sticky velcro when I stitch them together causing the thread to stick to the needle. When this happens I get about four stitches then the thread sticks to the needle and the machine stops working. At first I though it was the nylon thread and purchased polyester thread to remedy the problem, but I then discovered that the polyester thread was giving me the same results. I tried just about everything and the only solution that sometimes works is waxing the needle prior to stitching sticky velcro to leather. Waxing the needle works, but even this gives me poor results because the needle ends up skipping one or two stitches in the process. I also have a Tippmann that I purchased prior to my 441 clone. I refused to give up the Tippmann because I like using both machines. When i stitch the sticky velcro onto the leather with the Tippmann, i don't have the above mentioned problem. I'm able to sew the velcro on the leather with ease. I thought it may have been a needle problem so I switched the 441 needle with the the Tippmann and the 207 thread I was using on the Tippmann, but I received the same results. I tried just about everything to prevent the needle from picking up glue as I stitch velcro onto leather. I suspect that the last roll of velcro I purchased had poor glue because it didnt' stick to the leather as good as this new roll, but since I don't have the old box, I can't verify this. If any one else has had this issue, any information to fix it would be greatly appreciated.

Bruce great work, I love the belt and the design.

Troy, wow! great work, I love your website.

Thanks again to everyone for the replies. I actually own many HF tools, and I noticed its a hit and miss. I'm glad to hear that the air brushes are actually a potential hit. Time to make the next move and buy one so I can learn how to work with it. Sincerely, Daniel.

In the past two years I've been wanting to finally get an air brush to color some of my projects. Any recommendations besides harbor freight kits? Also what's the best dye for air brushing? Tnks again, Daniel.

I use owasso graphics for all my magnesium stamps. Check them out their website owassographics.com, Daniel.

I bought a 3 ton ratchetin arbor press. Since then, I don't have the need for the hammer because the pressure punches through the leather with ease. The ratchetin arbor presses go up to 7 tons but are a bit expensive. I think the 3 is perfect, its the same size as the 4 but not as expensive. If anyone is interested in the ratchetin arbor press, make sure its ratchetin, and not just an arbor press. There is a difference. I also use it for other things such as punching letters and my maker stamp, Daniel.

Try Texas Custom Dies, they made a 2.5" for me that I've been using for almost 3 years now. Prices are more than reasonable, Daniel.

I found the thread, just hope it works. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16698&st=0&p=106679&hl=new%20shop%20press&fromsearch=1entry106679

I'm typing through my phone so I don't have the time to search an old post I added on the harbor freight press. I do apologise, but you can search this this topic, where I also posted pictures of my press. I would recommend spending a little more money and getting a better press than hft. If molding is all you're gonna use it for, then it will work fine, but if later on you want to convert it to a clicker press, you may have problems. I had to spend money to get the machine working properly and I still can't get it to press evenly. This affects my embossing feature. I just purchased a C type of press that I plan on using for embossing, and clicking. The old one l plan to use as a holster press. The problem I found wit hft press is the pressure extension rod its not thick enough for large projects. I finally purchased one that does everything I need, but I'm stuck with 2. The one with the gauge sounds very nice. I hope this helps, Daniel .

Art thanks for the info. There's a supplier in South San Francisco called O'baltor & Son's who caters to the shoe industry. By luck he had 100 old snaps that I purchased and were not plated, but I haven't been able to find any since. Daniel.

Within the last year, at one time or another, I've purchased line 24 brass snaps from the three major suppliers advertised on LW. The items I received were solid brass, but be aware if the items have a high shine to it. this particular item is solid brass, but it's been coated with either nickel, or zinc, and re-coated with a shiny brass color on top of it. If you grind the snap, it will reveal solid brass material. The problem I'm having with this snap, is that my customer's polish their brass snaps almost every day. After a few polishes, the chemical wears out the top coat leaving behind the nickel or zinc color, and this chrome color doesn't wear down to the brass metal. One company actually admitted the snaps are manufactured this way to prevent the dulling color of the brass, and to avoid polishing the item. I learned this after I purchased the snaps and sold 75 items that contained these snaps to a local police department. As a result, a few months later, I had to replace 75 snaps that started out as brass color snaps, and eventually turned chrome color. Before you purchase snaps, ask the company if they are solid brass, which they will tell you they are, and once you receive the items, polish them for a few minutes with "Brasso." In the mean time, I still need solid brass snaps. If any of you know where I can purchase snaps from a company that has them, besides ZW, OTB, or FNC, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Sorry for the delay, but the machine was finally sold at a very good price. Thanks again, Daniel.

k, I think this will work for any one interested in the machine. Call Freightcenter.com at 1-800-716-7608, give them quote number 10347740 and tell them everything is the same, plus give them your zip code. The only price difference might be the fact that the company would have to pick up the item from my house and I don't have a loading dock. Daniel.