jwwright

Great saddle Shelly. You did a great job getting that color. It takes some work, patience and I would bet some Texas sunshine as well. Who was the maker of the tree in this one? JW

Ted..........you quoted here... "I got to thinking about this after reading an article by Dick Sherer where he stated something to the effect that he'd feel a little cheated if he removed the mullhide wraps from many 4K saddles today and saw some of the tree." Ted..........this is the part that I don't think was understood correctly. The method by which I, and many others cover a wood post horn after the swell cover is on, and by sewing all around............does not leave any of the horn or tree uncovered. Perhaps you have not seen that method. I personally, am now starting to cover steel horns in the same manner, except those for show or arena cutting saddles. Steve gave a good rough pattern, so I won't bother posting mine that I mentioned previously. It's all about personal preferences,and what works best for the customer,and the intended use of the saddle. JW

Ted, I covered a horn similar to that last Spring with the wing method. I think I saved the rough pattern. I will see if I can find it today a post photo of it. No problem on the disagreement, that's what makes the world go round. I personally have learned a great deal from this forum over the past year or so. JW

Ted, I cover wood post horns with the cap sewn all the way around (some call it donut style). The way that I and many other makers of using saddles do this, the neck is covered with leather as well, but not with wings. I cover the horn After the swell cover is put on. Makes for a much easier job to recover the horn later if/when needed. I sure don't view this as a cop out..............in order to do it where it looks smooth, it takes more time and skill, in my opinion than does the standard horn cover with wings. As for the wing pattern for the horn cover you asked about..........you might post a photo of the horn you are going to cover, and you might get some suggestions for a pattern. On the latigo choke strap use.........it sounds as though maybe both the wings of the horn cover and/or your choke strap are not wet enough. It works better for me if both are pretty darn wet. JW

I would agree that judging from the photo, although it is a difficult angle, that the seat in the area just ahead of the cantle points and further back is too round or poled. Personally, I like the area just ahead of the cantle points to be about as flat as I can get it, and just right close down to the strainer. There is going to be some convex shape there because of the shape of the bars. As for how far forward of the cantle points the "low" spot in the profile of the seat is, that is certainly a matter of personal taste, and desired usage of the saddle. But I think all would agree that the low spot does need to be forward of the cantle points. JW

Nice job Bev, and congrats on your accomplishment. JW

Does anyone have a good source for Duall 88 Cement, other than Siegel's ? I use Master's contact cement for a lot of things, but there are a few things that I really prefer the Dual for. Any leads appreciated. Thanks, JW

Really nice work as usual Steve. JW

Congrats on the new shop Andy. I can see that all the years building saddles have given you a good idea of what works best for you in shop layout. Enjoy it. JW

Bob Douglass makes the best (by far) awls I have used. 307-737-2222

Thank You for the comments Traveller and Bruce. Bruce, I have done 3 saddles with that pattern, although this is the first full stamp. I like doing it, only problem is the more folks that see it, want it. Might turn into a one trick pony. Thanks again, JW

Thanks for the comments all. Pete, the centers of that pattern are a diamond stamp from J Watt. I do those first, then the lines with a swivel knife, and the seeder last. For me anyway, I find that gives me a little wiggle room to at least trick the eye into thinking that it is all straight. Josh, all the silver came from Hansens. Some of it was already part of their stock patterns, some of it they made custom. JW

I finished this show saddle up this past weekend. The tree is from Ray Lewis, leather is Herman Oak, and the silver is from Hansens. This was my first inlaid padded seat, and first cheyenne roll. Tips from other makers about the inlaid seat, gleaned from this board were very helpful. Many Thanks, JW.

Panhandle Leather, Amarillo TX 800-537-3945

Nice work, Elton. Congrats! JW

I think there was some discussion about this prior to the crash, maybe............ I am interested in how other saddle makers plug skirts. Do you plug the whole length of the skirt up to the bars? Lighter plugs, or no plugs in the middle under the rider leg area? What is the durability aspect? Although I have not torn down and / or repaired any saddles older than say 30years, it is my understanding that some of the older ones were not plugged in the middle. J Watt, I believe, advocated that either some where I read, or on his dvd series. JW

Frank, nice, good clean saddles. Nice lines, and even though you are from the Basin, the lines on these two show some Texas influence to me, at least. Where abouts in Texas are you living currently? Have you cut about 20 feet off your rope and put a horn knot on it yet?.......just joshin ya, don't want to start a war! JW

Bruce, I have been partial to half leathers on my personal saddles for quite a while.......both all day punchin saddles or in the arena. For quite a few years actually, my saddles have served double duty as both. I built myself a new saddle a couple months ago. On it, I tried full leathers, exposed on the outside of the fenders, but went with 2 1/2" wide. After the fenders / leathers got broke in, I really can't tell the difference between this setup and half leathers. On half leathers, I have been using 2 rivets set across from each other horizontally. Then sewn vertically down each side about 3 inches. When someone orders from me, they get what they prefer, and I am finding that most folks have a strong preference. I am finding that whether half or full leathers, most folks are liking the 2 1/2 " wide. JW

That's good to know Ashley, Thanks. I will try to look him up. We will be in Amarillo, and shuffling back and forth between OKC for cowhorse prelims, and hopefully finals, at the world show. JW

Steve, I have never ridden one, nor built on one........however, I am curious enough to want to try it, though. I contacted the Howe feller in Colorado that is building some of those trees several months ago. He was supposed to send me some photos of various fork patterns and such that he makes, and have his son who builds the trees contact me. Never have heard anymore from him. JW

Joanne, I have made lots of horse tracks riding half leathers, and I don't think they wear any more quickly than full leathers. However, since the fenders are carrying much more than with a full leather arrangement, I have noticed that the fender "leg" down at the bottom can get weak and even tear some, if the fenders were not cut from good material. Just my experience, I'm sure other's mileage will vary. JW

Thanks Steve. Joanne, half stirrup leathers are just like it sounds. Instead of having full stirrup leathers that are 65" or so long making the complete "circle", you have a stirrup leather about 1/2 that long that is attached at the top of the fender by rivets and stitching. The fender acts as stirrup leather as well. Hope that makes a little sense. On performance saddles......cutters, reiners, cowhorse, this set up is the normal, along with 2 1/2" wide leathers instead of 3". JW

Mudman...........Many Thanks. JW

Hi Traveller Joanne..............Thanks for your generous comments. The Buster Welch term refers to the shape of the swells. Aside from the differences in horn, one being a Texas Daly metal, and the other a Wood Post, the trees in these two saddles are the same. There are several swell shapes that have been named after cowboys, horseman, etc., and this is one. Others are Olin Young, Toots Mansfield, Hogg, etc. Buster Welch is one of the finest horseman and ranchers to come along, and he helped popularize this swell shape. It is my understanding that he got the idea for the shape from the original association bronc saddles. I would bet that Mr Severe could tell much more on that subject. Among most current tree makers,there is actually not much difference between the shape of the Buster Welch and Olin Young swells.The saddle on the left has what is referred to as a loop seat. From my experience riding them, no real advantage or disadvantage..........just a punchy look that some folks favor. The same would apply to the outside or exposed stirrup leathers...........although I feel that they MIGHT offer a little bit "thinner" feel under the leg as opposed to full leathers both under the fender. Not as "thin" as half leathers though. Many of my personal saddles over the years have been loop seat and exposed stirrup leathers, and I have never experienced a rubbing or pinching issue because of them. Again, from my point of view, mostly a cosmetic deal. Thanks JW

Below are photos of a couple of saddles I finished the past couple weeks, both built on Buster Welch Roper trees. JW