jwwright

Good stuff as usual Steve. JW

Most often, I use 13/15 oz skirting leather, lined with latigo 8 oz or so. JW

Just one more suggestion to consider...........I have a couple of Jeremiah Watt's knives that I have been very pleased with. JW

Jed.........my last maker's stamp came from Grey Ghost. I have had it for about one year. This is a larger size that I use on saddles, and I have been pleased with it. JW

Thanks Ash..............I will try and give you a call sometime soon. JW

Mike, Alan and Two Crow............Many Thanks! JW

Thanks for your advice Alan. I have checked Weaver's and TLF, and the widest I can find is 1/8". I see TLF does sell some 4 feet long 1/4"..........but I need longer length than that. Any ideas for source? JW

I have a couple of questions for you rawhide braiders, if you would be so kind as to indulge me. I primarily build saddles, but have done a little braiding. I do some braided swell covers on saddles, and have primarily used roo or latigo for this. Recently, I got a call for maybe braiding up the swell covers with rawhide. My questions are: Where is a good source to buy some precut (and I would prefer beveled) rawhide string? I have been using 1/4" wide with the roo and latigo. I am a little concerned about estimating the amount of shrinkage that will take place as the rawhide braiding dries. I don't want things so tight that it over stresses the holes in the leather. Based on your experience, would I want to braid with fairly dry string in this case? Many Thanks, JW

I think it looks real good. Nice lines........how do you like using that 550 ring hardware on a plate rig? I see that you put your bridles in the background just to prove that you are not really a Texan...........although I do see one low port grazer! just bustin yer chops, nice job on the saddle. JW

Timbo, I sometimes use some linen thread I get from Sheridan Leather. I is a very off white or tan color and I like it. Mostly, I use some poly thread I get from Weavers. They sell it in several colors, but I usually use what I think they call "pheasant" color. It is the same color as I run in my machine, so it matches. This poly thread is about the size of 346 thread. Hope this helps. JW

Thanks for the photos Rick............what does this rascal weigh? JW

Justin..........as I said on your original post...........really nice work. On a personal note, my wife has been a professional photographer for 20+ years as well. JW

Is that Sarah Palin ? oh ya, the subject was fish, not moose!

Very Nice work Justin. Glad to have you here. JW

Thank You Darc, for bringing this idea up again. I've been meaning to give it a try, but just hadn't. I will be giving it a go very soon. JW

Bruce...........my eyes caught the same things. I will bet that those skirts have a couple of nails drove through them into the cantle gullet. Most all of the Texas factory saddles I have messed with have been done that way, and then laced together only the last inch or two. Seems bass ackward to me. JW

Outstanding craftsmanship in all things concerned as usual Troy. JW

Hi Doug...............sorry for your troubles. I would suspect stifle or maybe hock problems with this horse. I would suggest you have a good equine vet, who has much experience with equine limb situations, look the horse over well. JW

Buckskin 1................you are at a good place here on this forum to learn. You could probably take a week of reading through all the topics, and still not get it all done. Here's my take on your question and situation. Book/dvd/video learning resources are the Stohlman books, J Watt dvds, Cheney videos, Gomer videos all good for the beginner......especially the books and Watt dvds. Harwood's dvd will be of much more benefit to you after you have built a few. As for supplies and tools............I am going to disagree with some suggestions previously given. For trees..........buy the best you can afford, and certainly stay away from the ralide stuff. If you build a decent saddle on those trees, then most likely you will have a saddle to sell that is worth less than the material cost in it. The good quality mid range trees from Timberline, as one example will only add $125 approx cost to the total saddle, but provide much more than that in quality and value. As for the leather, you could economise there a little maybe, but..........I don't know what a side of Tandy's skirting leather cost, but you can buy #1 Herman Oak 13/15oz skirting from Panhandle Leather for $156 per side, plus shipping. As for tools...........unless you plan to build only one saddle, and then never use the tools again for another saddle or leather project..................buying cheap inferior tools is very much false economy. Just my opinions, and I intend no disrespect to you or those who offered differing suggestions . Best of luck to you on your new saddle making journey. JW

Emma.........just kinda depends on what you want, and how long you will wait. There are quite few saddle makers that frequent this forum, that build cutting saddles. I don't want to leave anyone out, so I won't try to list them for you. If time is a big factor for you, then there are a couple of people that come to mind..........folks that build a true handmade saddle and usually have a couple ready for immediate sale. Let us know exactly what you have in mind, and I am sure that others will chime in here as well. JW

Emma................are you looking to purchase a made cutting saddle, or cutting tree, or? JW

Thanks Bob. I build a seat with a metal strainer, or some of the trees I use have the strainer glassed in. I have never built an all leather ground seat, although I am going to do at least one soon, just because I want to. JW

Very nice armitias...........good job. JW

Grumpy, Thank You. I have done about a dozen of these hidden stitch binds so far, and I am starting to get them where they are almost smooth enough to suit me. I find them easier really for me to get a good appearance, as when doing a regular bind I have trouble getting the backside stitches to be as uniform as I like. The hidden stitch kind of eliminates that problem. Ashley.........Thank You as well. I hope you and your family have a great 2009. JW

I don't do much in the way of carving, just stamping mainly, so my mauls are at about the 32 oz size for stamping and punching, etc. In a realted topic, I will offer my observation about any type of punch,,,,,,drive, end, etc. You can find some brands of punches that the striking end is not totally flat, they are somewhat rounded or beveled on the edges. It is pretty easy to not strike those squarley with a maul, and you hit kind of glancing blow. The pain in your hand gets old in a hurry. JW