TracyMoss

Well, Good Job on the saddle. I think it really turned out nice and the lines are pretty clean, not always easy on true square skirts.

The skirts look awful thin to be plugged, maybe I just don't understand where your "borders" are. Please explain.

Why the felt pad? Looks nice. I am curious, it seems as though there aren't any plugs on your saddle, or dutchmen whatever you want to call them.

Snowing here in Colorado

ArtS, I know that it is hard to get many people in the southeast to get their head around the concept and price of a custom made saddle. I have family in Tennesse and I have seen these Tucker saddles and they buy into the gimmicks around there. The fact is most of them do not know how to ride properly, they are just passengers, and when you sit in your car seat, you just want it to be comfortable.

See my reponse to Tippman Question.....( title discusion started by scouter in this forum.)

I have repaired, re-timed, and used alt of sewing machines. Your best bet is to always use one size smaller on your bobbin thread. That way the top thread doesn't have to be so tight to pull the bobbin thread up through. Trust me this is best. Also, the heavier the leather, or thicker, you need to use a LARGER NEEDLE. Just because a needle works on 12 oz. of leather doesn't mean it will perform as well with 24 oz of leather etc. I personally hate the Tippman, they change hand a lot for a reason. But, they are portable and if you do any sort of traveling w/ them (ie. trade shows) I can see where a working one would be somewhat handy. As for turning the leather with the needle down, watch out, you may twist the needle on heavier items and caused pulled or missed stitches. Also with the Tippman, as I have found, you absolutely must engage and fully cycle the lever arm or things go wrong. As far as tension, the Tippman is not near as resilient as other machines. You must readjust if you make a drastic change in thread or material. I hope some of this may have helped. I know it is a little bitter towards the Tippmann, but I do despise them.

Well, I'm glad that it worked well for you, but "royal Meadow" just isn't up to par for me. I have used tandy leather, IMO way over priced. If I wanted import quality I would buy it from my supplier at around $4.50 S.F. or $105.00 a side. I have actually been quoted $9.00S.F. at a Tandy Store, and I have a business license and I am in their computer. Let's calculate $7 * AVG. 24 ft = $168.00. Hermann Oak Avg. $154.00 medium skirting. I think I'll stay with the better( undisputable ) and in this case cheaper option H.O.

IMO, if you want somthing simple, just use saddle skirting, the lighter weight the better. 11/13 oz or 12/14 oz. However if you want to line them, you must use a lighter weight of leveled skirting, maybe 6/7 oz., but no heavier than 10 oz. Lining should on be around 3/4 oz.

I would like to see some results in this little adventure

sorry, I can't help you, ask Johanna.

I just clicked on the map and it asked me if I wanted to pin myself to it.

Interesting. I saw a guy on utube or something making a wood coffin bookmark out of leather. Never did the whole wood grain thing. How did you get started with that?

I agree with Bruce on this one. As for Dusty Johnsons book, don't waste your time. You will be highly disappointed. However, I had already built a dozen saddles when I met him. IMO his book is a cookie cutter of a saddle, click and paste waste of time.

I despise the acrylic resolene. I'd say just some simple Tan-kote would do the trick, or some Lac Kote.

thanks. appreciate the compliments.

thanks guys, sorry i'm a greenhorn in the music industry. I admittedly know nothing except ol time church hymns, and not the sheet music to go with them.

Neats foot oil ( Neat's Foot Oil) is from pressed cattle hooves to include the bones. "Neat" is the old English word for cattle. Hence, cattle's foot oil. That said, today there are alot of petroleum based neats foot oils out there due to the loose specification guidelines set by the government. There are also different grades. IMO, one should not use anything other than "ultra prime". I have a background in the wholesale leather supply industry as well as my other experiences.

Well, thanks for the input. My brother is no troubadour or nothing, but maybe it'll sound good enough.

Well, I don,t mean to knock tandy leather, but I'm knocking tandy leather. I would go with something like Hermann Oak or Wickett & Craig if it were me. They make consistent quality leather. IMO Hermann Oak is best for most items, like Saddles, Tack, Etc. However, W & C has a softer temper and burnishes and colors really nice for the smaller items like belts, gift items etc. If you want a quality product, buy quality leather. IMHO you just can't find that at tandy's.

what kind of leather did you use? Did you use any casing solution? I personally do not use a solution, although lots of people recommend it. I case my leather the old way, with just water, cover w/ plastic, wait.

Here is my rendition of the Floral Carving Challenge. I finished mine out though. Also, I'm not sure what the guidelines are here, but I don't trace much. I did trace the flower and the leaf as to maintain some adherence to the pattern, but after that I carved my own stems. Sorry, no intentions of hurting anyones feelings, I just do it better that way. Never have been much on tracing, it doesn't allow me to lay out my pattern to fit my project. Anyhow, here are a few pictures of my go at the carving.

These "Connector Straps" are referred to as "Dee Hobbles" where I come from.

I haven't heard any complaints, but I'll have to ask specifics from my brother. As for me, no time for guitar lessons. The covering is just on the top. I had to strip the guitar down and do some light sanding before applying the Master's A.P.. The stitch that you see is just for looks.

This is the first time I have done anything like this, but I think it turned out pretty good.