TracyMoss

I must have been asked this question a hundred times from questioning tire kickers asking who I thought was the best and what they get for THEIR saddles. I once met a boot maker in San Angelo, TX who had a sign in his store and on his business cards as well the slogan, WORST BOOT MAKER IN TEXAS. People would ask him why he put that on there and he would say everyone else is claiming the title of the best, so it couldn't possibly be him. SO he decided he would be the worst and no one would try to take his title away. I kind of stole his idea and tell people that I am at best the average, so when they ask who is the best I simply tell them: Well, everyone else of course. Just thought I would share a little story and maybe get some stories going.

Good work. You can also use the liners as patterns and make them out of a nice calf skin. Then mark your holes with an overstitch wheel and punch smaller holes Then you wouldn't have to use as heavy a thread. I like to use lighter weight thread on my smaller items, it makes for a little cleaner look. I like your tooling, very nice. Keep up the good work

I have to agree with Randy on this one. Use a drive punch, often a tapered punch used to set nail heads in to wood so that they can be flush. Use the drive punch with the plate with hole. This will drive the peened end loose of the burr and allow the rivet to be removed with the least amount of damage to the leather. Using a drill bit in most cases overheats the leather and makes it brittle around the hole and can lead to the replacement rivet being ripped out. The drive punch works equally well with the jiffy, star, and double cap rivets. Just make sure that the hole in the plate is just slightly larger than the rivet. I have a plate with multiple holes of different sizes for this purpose. Also if you have a thick poly cutting board, you can drill a couple of holes in one end of your board for the same purpose. :deadhorse: Sorry if this was redundant

speaking of rotary cutters. I have an electric rotary cutter that I use for chaps. It only takes me about Five minutes or less to fringe a pair of chaps. I alos use it to cut the chaps out of the side. I couldn't live without it now

In my limited experience, you should always mold then stitch.

I worked at www.panhandleleather.com and we always had some splitters around. Try giving these guys a call.

I do a little of both, but mostly custom. If I get the opportunity and I have the tree, I will make a prospect saddle, or stock saddle if you will. However you must be patient with the prospect saddles and take them to some trade shows. Chances are you will have to sell it at a little lower price, but you get the balance up front. If you want to make saddles for a living, at some time or another you will have to do some contract saddles, or consignment saddles at a feed store, etc. Now, this is just my experience.

Well I'm not sure what they charge, but I've never seen one anywhere for under $120.00. The new saddle hammers are just as expensive.

Sorry, wouldn't sell mine. Actually mine is the old H.F. Osborne model. C.S. Osborne bought out his brother around 1912 I think. Anyhow, good luck. It took a lotta luck finfing mine at an old junk sale.Have you tried Kieth Pommer or Bob Douglas?

www.panhandleleather.com give them a call. They carry Barbour's linen thread on left or right twist. 6 & 7.

If you are open ( minded ) to lacing the back of the swell you can cover alot larger swell fork without welts. I have found that roughout swells are easier to cover in one piece without having to split the back and lace it. Just my two cents.

Well, we'll settle for honorary REPUBLIC.

You can get some "printed" leather from www.panhandleleather.com . They don't have it on the website, but call the Number and ask for Jim Blain Kenney.

Who made them? They look nice.

Need more info.

www.panhandleleather.com get the number off the website and ask for Jim Blain Kenney. They will have whatever weight you need.

Fryzetti, I would recommend the 205 b/c that is my preference. Some people prefer the Juki. I personally feel that the 205 is a better made machine. As for the dealer i used myself. I used to work for a leather supply in Texas and got the machine from the manufacturer. I sold quite a few of the machines and everybody liked them. They come with a servo motor so quiet that you can't even hear it over the action of the machine. And they cost about $1000.00 less.

I don't think you have anything to be embarressed about. Tha first pair I did went in the profit bin about three times.

why not braided 550 cord. You should have plenty of that. I think that would even work as a keeper not just practice.

Try looking up maker stamp. Check out infinity stamps for a high end stamp, or check out grey ghost graphics for a good alternative.

Very nice work, did you have a pattern for the shoulder holster?

I have the SEWPRO 205 knockoff. I worked on an Adler 205 for years. I can't tell the difference.

RockinB were you at the NCHA Finals?

If there was a prize I might have you beat.

yes I'm married, but I'm willing to take a little pain. After all, I am MARRIED.