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Everything posted by TwinOaks
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NICE GUN HOLSTER TUTORIAL
TwinOaks replied to zaptoid's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thanks Bronson for clarifying that. Since I only use linen (hand stitching, still...) I don't have any experience with the nylon. -
If I understand the portent of the statement, Lobo is stating that it's easier to cut the shape of the holster (odd shape with odd shaped cut outs) and then cut the straps from some of the cut outs. Or perhaps cut a strap or two from the side to make all of the attachment straps first. That way, even though the holster is irregularly shaped, it's more consistant. Having the attachment straps as separate pieces prevents lots of REALLY irregular shaped pieces where the cut outs end up in the scrap bin. Example: For a typical 1911 holster with attachment straps, the sweat shield extends perhaps 3 inches from the body of the holster. When laying out the pattern on a side, you can stagger the pattern to get the most holsters from that hide. If the attachment straps are part of that pattern, you "lose" leather because the patterns can't be "packed" as closely together. Then there's the other thought that if the strap is part of the pattern, and the holster is stitched all the way around, at some point you create perforations across the base of the strap with the stitching....unless you don't stitch in that spot.
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NICE GUN HOLSTER TUTORIAL
TwinOaks replied to zaptoid's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Hey Rayban, Yes, a toaster oven works well. My leather oven currently pulls some additional duties cooking dinner. I got the idea from either Regis or Jordan, as they mentioned it in one of their threads (probably a good while back). Whichever one it was cited the magic temperature as 140F. I don't trust the oven's temp setting all that much, I don't have a laser thermometer to check it with, and all I care about is "good and hot". I have found that once you do this (I'm using this process on wet formed holsters, not just cased) the inside of the holster will be like a sauna. Some wadded/twisted paper towels work well for absorbtion. Important point here: Use test pieces to determine your oven's temp range. Scorched holsters smell BAAAAAAAADDDDD! Oh yeah, and, you might not want to try this with nylon thread- I use waxed linen. Also, do NOT try to speed things up and use a microwave....Johanna has something posted about that. -
NICE GUN HOLSTER TUTORIAL
TwinOaks replied to zaptoid's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Good tutorial, I'll get a message off the the owner and see if we can make it a permanent link. There's a few things I do differently that I'd like to add: 1. I always seal the leather to prevent rub-off of the dye 2. I "set" the leather by heat drying it. You'll get different numbers from different people, but I use a convection oven set at about 140(F) and just get the leather hot. Then I remove it and let it finish air drying. When heated like this, the leather takes the molding and really holds the shape...IMO, a lot better than just air drying. -
Lobo, I've been playing with the idea of dual carry methods too. To me, the easiest solution was to use a t-nut through the back of the "wing" with a stand off spacer to leave room for the belt in IWB mode and a screw holding the snap/strap in place. To convert to OWB, replace the IWB strap with a wrap around loop. This method of attachment also lends flexibility to the holster as one customer requested both black and brown IWB straps to match different belts.
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Very nice work Josh! Excellent combination of steel and leather too. Now if there was only a border etched onto the blade...... sorry, I couldn't resist after all the ribbing we've given you about borders on leather. Keep 'em coming, I can't wait to see your first short sword/sheath combo.
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I like the ones in the pink shirt.....ON the pink shirt......ON the pink shirt.
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Ray, I especially like how you use the metric listing of clearances to make it seem bigger......13mm indeed. That's a whole lot snazzier than "half inch". The web description even uses the term "massive 400 mm" describing the arm. <sigh> Sorry, Ray, I let my machine envy get the better of me. So have you named this one yet?
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If you do something really silly....this one should have it covered. Ich trank zu viel. Welcome to the forum! Don't worry about your translation skills, there's native speakers that have trouble with English. However.....Johanna (forum administrator) had some OOOOOOLLLLLLDDDDDDD High German books she was trying to get translated....PM her and see if she still needs any help. Suze? You know if she ever got those finished?
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Hi Zack, and to Leatherworker.net! Sorry to say, I can't really recommend a tool list to you, but fear not! Other members who know more about what you're doing will be along soon. We look forward to seeing some pics of your work. Whenever you're ready to get 'the skinny' on what you're making, post some pics in the "Critique my work" section. There you'll get some honest feedback and suggestions on improving your craft. Coffee's mostly fresh, bathrooms are down the hall to the left, and don't eat the donuts.
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Welcome to the forum!
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When "back to school" time rolls around again, get some poly folders from wallyworld. I got a bunch at $.15 each, and when unfolded, they are ~ 11x17 inches....+ the pockets. It's pretty durable stuff, doesn't crack if folded, and is easy to scissor cut.
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Dye Removal
TwinOaks replied to cazio's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
I found that liquid latex will pull dye out...sometimes. I was using it as a block out for airbrushing and ran some over a line. No big deal, it'll peel off later. Well, yes, it did peel off and took all the sprayed on dye under it off. All the way to clean leather! Retouch time. I don't think that's what you're wanting, but that's a way to remove some dye. -
First, to Leatherworker.net!! Now, I'll echo others' comments about what you intend to do. I've been looking for a machine too, so I've run down a lot of the questions and answers. Some general things to consider: Will you be stitching things with grain out on both sides, and why does it matter? Some machines move material by means of "feed dogs" (which are little toothy grippers that come up from under the needle plate) , some by Unison feed (needle feed + feed dogs), and some by needle feed only. Needle feed is exactly what it sounds like. The needle penetrates the leather and pulls it along then the presser foot/feet on top hold the material in place while the needle withdraws, repositions, and does it again. If you're going to be sewing something like holsters where you may have grain showing on both sides of the item, feed dogs may leave marks you don't want. Needle feed is the way to go there, but IMO, needle feed isn't strong enough (by itself)to do reeeeally thick leather like saddles...but I may be wrong there. Next your intended items should determine whether you need a flat bed or a cylinder bed machine. Flat bed is pretty self explanatory, cylinder bed means that the bottom part of the mechanism is a cylinder. This matters a lot if you're going to be sewing blankets (flat bed, please) or bags/holsters/etc. The cylinder bed allows you to work in tighter spaces, but doesn't support the material like a flat bed does. Some cylinder bed machines have a flat bed attachment so you can convert. What you will be sewing determines how much presser foot clearance you need. If it's only chaps or holsters, something with a 5/16ths[8mm] lift may be enough. If you're gonna sew an honest 1 inch of leather, you need a machine with at least 1 inch clearance. If you're only looking for something to sew wallet interiors, well that's another story and you may not even need a walking foot machine. Something to keep in mind while you're shopping (see related posts on this forum): Old singer sewing machines may indeed stitch some leather in the pics on ebay, but they aren't designed to do a lot of it. They also won't accept the larger sized threads. Now, about the green....depending on the model/type machine you should expect about $1000 as a base price and then go up from there. You may luck out and find a deal, but that's about the bottom floor of it. A common price bracket is $2000-$3000 for a heavy harness stitcher that's set up for leather. Set up for leather??? What's that mean? Simple. The heavy leather sewing machines we use are often modified (for our purposes) versions of industrial stitchers. The big machines are used in factories on production lines, and they can go pretty dang fast. A set up for leather almost always includes a speed reducer, and now it's pretty common to see them with DC servo motors. That let's you have lots of torque at slow speed. Depending on the model (again) you can set them to run along at a blistering 0-150 stitch per minute. Once you get the hang of it, you can increase speed. Some of the ones I've researched don't have the speed reducer and the listed "spm" is 2-3 THOUSAND spm. That sound's like this: "Clack, clackety.....BBBBRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR" and you've sewn your hand to the saddle. Yes it can happen (probably has happened) and if the machine will shove a needle through 3/4 of an inch of dead cow skin, what makes you think it'd balk at our puny skin? Spend the money on a machine with a speed reducer up front....it's cheaper than a doctor, and blood is difficult to remove from leather. Who to call? That's up to you. Steve's reputation preceeds him by a long way, and I've personally spoken with Ryan (Neel's Saddlery) and both are extremely nice to work with. Of course, they will promote their own machines if they can, but I'd trust either of them to honestly answer your sewing machine questions. Hope this helps a little bit. humble note: Our resident experts may correct me on my sewing terms and descriptions, and should that happen.....listen to them. I'm just a live version of Wiki.
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paints? I dunno. Haven't tried that. I'm thinking acrylics won't stick to it very well because of the tallows pushed to the surface. brewtime? I let mine brew for a few weeks before using it, but I used steel wool first then threw some nails in after the first month. Just remember to leave the lid loose enough to let gas escape ( or use a valve system).
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Covering your tack may be part of the problem. By covering it, you're restricting airflow and setting up stagnant conditions. Though it's a finished basement, it's below ground level and "underground" is almost always cooler than 'above ground'. If there's no air handling system down there, you might try setting a fan at the door to the basement. That should help move the humidity about some, and hopefully help with the problems.
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Tom Threepersons holster
TwinOaks replied to Lobo's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Beautiful work, there. Thanks for the brief biography, too. It just goes to show there's all kinds of neat info lurking in the most unlikely places. -
Umm, yeah.... It's the same pic and presumably the same machine you have listed on your website. However, the website lists it as "very clean", not "mint" and the price on the website is only $1000. What gives?
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Also something very important to keep in mind: You should only be using about 3 feet at a time (for edge braiding). Beaverslayer mentioned that any more than that and the lace starts looking ragged after so many trips through the holes. Learn to splice in a new piece instead of pulling 10 feet of lace. It's also LOTS easier to keep straight. BTW, where is The Beave and his tinfoil hat? I haven't seen him in a very long time.
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First off, Welcome to Leatherworker.net! I don't have the answers to the questions, but I'd like to add: If you'll be a little more specific as to what you're trying to do, and what type/make of saddle it is, the saddlemakers here can give a better answer. I've done a veeery little work on saddles so the only advice I feel comfortable giving is this: If you gotta pull nails, make sure you've got a block between the puller and the leather. It'll also help if you can get something to hold the leather in place while the nail comes out. An old spatula with a notch cut in it worked pretty well (for me).......just don't let you're spouse know about it.
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Barge cement
TwinOaks replied to ABC3's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Deglazer (Fiebing's) works pretty well to remove any left over residue once you rub off the rest. -
looking for custom saddle tree maker
TwinOaks replied to ccpowell's topic in Saddle Supplies, Tools & Trees
Denise (one of our Mods) and her hubby make trees. Send her a PM and see if they can accomodate you. -
Yup, Here ya go: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...culator+program
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There's one here on the forum for free. I'll see if I can find it real quick.