TwinOaks

Ed, I think I know what you're thinking and you just want a second "aye" before you do it so here it is. You should disassemble it for cleaning and inspection, and while you've got it apart see if there's a way to increase it's power and collet size to allow for a wider range of rotary tools and applications. I mean, c'mon, why shouldn't a dremel be able to double as a lathe motor? Incidentally, depending on the number of 'brushes' it has, you'll probably want extra hands---divide the total number of brushes by two and round up. The brushes will look like little blocks of gray-black....stuff....with a curved face against the stator, and spring on the other end. You'll need really small tools and those magnifying lamps you rebuilt.

Formica desk may be the culprit. See if you can move to a more stable foundation...even the floor will work for testing purposes....and try a few.

Umm....having a leather pad under the thin leather might allow it to stretch more during tooling?

Aaron, I appologize in advance for this, but here goes. It's a federal issue, not a local one. Since I'm not a lawyer, I don't think I can get into the legal definitions about it and make any sense. However, back when I was shopping for a Keltec, I wanted one of those holsters too. My range instructor (NRA cert.) and a LEO warned me against them. IIRC, it has something to do with the 'holster' attaching to the pistol. At that moment, it's no longer a 'holster' but an attachment. Similary, if I was to make a wire frame stock that attached to the grip screws of my 1911, the moment I attach it to the pistol, the whole contraption becomes a "short barreled rifle" (which I believe is a Class III weapon...but don't quote me).

Yes, a piece of advice: Be sure that you are unable to fire the weapon from inside the holster. There's a neat little holster for keltecs that looks like a slab. It blocks out the KT profile and allows virtually undetected carry in a hip pocket. The trick is that there's a cut out for the trigger finger and the 'holster' can act like a modified grip. That's all well and fine, until you get to the fine print. That thing can be classified as "Other Destructive Device" causing all kinds of problems for anyone that has it. Here's a link that shows the type:http://www.amazon.com/Conceal-City-Wallet-Holster-Kel-Tec/dp/B00132C3I6

Welcome to Leatherworker.net, we're glad to have you.

I'm game! I'll send a PM as well.

Ray, just about all states here in the U.S. provide a state funded mental institution. You'll be just fine. Small rant: Even if you can't afford third party medical coverage, there's a good chance you can qualify for medicaid or medicare (State (guv'mint) funded healthcare). I'm thinking a huge percentage of the illegal aliens here in this country are already using it....for free.

Using the definition of "machine" as per Wiki: A simple machine is a device that transforms the direction or magnitude of a force Now a good example of a simple machine is the inclined plane....call it a slope. Now, if a slope can be a machine, then I suggest that a needle can be a machine, a VERY simple machine. Try sewing with out one. It directs a force (shove the needle through the leather) and then allows the user to transform the pushing force into pulling force (because you're using a needle that's too large for the hole). I gotta agree with rdb's last comment. If you use anything but harsh language to cut, penetrate, bind, or finish your projects you've used a machine.....some of them could be called "tool". About the only leather thing I think you could make with NO TOOLS....well, nevermind. You gotta get the skin off the cow somehow.

I believe one of the types of metal is 'stainless' spring steel bands. I haven't done it with metal...yet...but I have tried Kydex. It worked out well enough, but my opinion is that Kydex is the product of the devil. Unless you have a shop set up to work with it..maybe. The way I did it was to layout and punch the stitch lines, then stitch most of the reinforcement. I left a little gap to insert the hard stuff, then completed the stitch. Keep in mind that I hand stitch just about everything. Perhaps K-man or BOOMstick can chime in here with their thoughts. They are both pro holstermakers and will have a vast amount more info on the subject.

Though it isn't a Douglas or Peter Main awl, I've had pretty good success with the Osborne awl that Tandy sells. It's not bad the way it comes, but like all tools, it needs a little tweaking. When I broke my mine, I bought another, then took the first and reground the blade to have a 'stubby' awl. A little heat and the glue holding the blade in the shaft loosens up nicely. Being shorter, I've been able to significantly reduce its profile. Anyway, for the price of a Douglas, you can purchase several Osbornes to practice with, and they're pretty good quality.

...or a Makarov. If it's a Mak. do a search for a holster by Jordan. He made one for his Mak and generously put the pattern on here.

Double Yeppers. The hoopla for '8' says faster, but all I see are a lot of 'safety' options that are more a pain in the posterior than anything else.

There's a comment here that just jumps up and down needing to be adressed: The statement is "I have a stitching pony but man was it hard to force the needles through the leather without stretching the holes out..." You shouldn't be forcing the needles through. You should be piercing with an awl first, then following with the needle. The trick to using the awl is to create an index on it (thanks to the OP of this idea). Set the blade at an angle you want to use, then mark where your thumb is. Now shave/file/rasp off that spot so that your thumb is in the same spot every time. Use a consistant angle for penetration -- 90 degrees-- (like straight through, not skewed off). Do a little reading on the subject of awls, it's important to know the basics. Now, if your awl is stretching the leather instead of just sliding through, it needs to be sharpened....properly. Your awl should be sharp enough that after piercing the leather, it should get about halfway into your finger before you realize it. Seriously. No, I don't mean you should stab your finger repeatedly to see when it's sharp enough, but it needs to be "scary sharp". The type of awl blade you have will make a HUGE difference. The general consensus is that Bob Douglas' awl blades are the best. Period. The awl set from tandy is 'Ok' for lacing projects, but drastically over sized for stitching. See this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...awl+blade\ post #8

Howdy, I just installed IE8 b/c IE7 was starting to lag quite a bit and had trouble opening my home page- it just froze. When I installed IE8, I lost the scrolling function for my touch pad. The fix was as simple as downloading and reinstalling the driver. Is this an issue with IE8 or is it likely to be something else? I did check to see if it was just IE, but the scroll function disappeared from FF too. When I reinstalled the driver, it alerted me that there was no file for it- like it had been removed; I didn't even have the little touchpad icon in the toolbar. I'm just wondering if it got deleted when IE8 was installing everything. Note: until this upgrade, I've never had any problems with it. So, tech gurus, suggestions or thoughts? P.S. Yes, Dave, I know I should just stick with FF.

Try searching for " cuir bouli ". It means "boiled leather", but not that you should actually put boiling water on the leather, or the leather in the boiling water. The term (it is supposed) comes from wetting leather to the point that little air bubbles start escaping from it- aka soppin' wet. Once it's that wet, it is formed and then allowed to dry. There is a method for 'heat treated' leather, and I'm sure you'll come across it in the search results, but as far as I can tell, it's best used for 'scales' or other ultra hard pieces, where there will be little or no flex.

For the fine detail on the font, you might consider doing this in the inverted style. That's where you swivel knife cut the outlines, then tool inside the letters to compress the leather. Considering that this is a seat, you may find that the details last longer that way...but take a look at some of Roger's work on seats- he doesn't seem to have any problem with details. It'd also give you a good idea of what was possible.

Ray, there's one here on the forum in the want to sell category: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...n+rounder\ It's about a month old, but you might want to check it out.

Very good info Ray! That's a new perspective and a wonderful idea. One of the local channels down here runs a segment where they highlight local talent and artisans.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net, we're glad you found us. And after seeing that work.....yeah, why did you quit?

Just ....wow! I'll break out a thesaurus and see if I can find enough words to describe this, John. I've never seen it's equal. I hope this was a custom ordered case, because I don't see how you could price it otherwise.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net! We like questions because it gives us an excuse to do a lot of typing, so bring 'em. As far as copying a design, if you're making something for youself, pretty much nobody but you knows it. If you make a duplicate of a design, and then market it, well you can run into problems. We had a long drawn out discussion of this not too long ago. Do a search (top right of the window) for "copyright infringement", and that should pull up some relevant threads. If you want to just show everyone what you've been doing, post it in the 'show off' section. If you want input from them members, like what's good/bad, how to improve, or just want to know what folks think about it, then post it in the 'critique my work' section. Be warned: Posting there is a way of saying "take your best shot at it and gimme an honest critique". There will be some kind fluffy comments, and there will be some very straight forward comments that look at your work objectively. It's the single best way to improve your work, short of a full blown apprenticeship with a master artisan. When you get a few free minutes, also drop a post in the 'member galllery' where folks other than sheath and holster junkies can meet you.

you did adjust your calculations to allow to direction of rotation didn't you?

If you're not going to use it, donate it to LW.net. Here it can be purchased through silent auction with the majority of the proceeds going to help fund this site.

No problem, buckskin. It's what we do here- help each other out any way we can.