TwinOaks

I'd think some thin vinyl place mats would work well. Or perhaps some thin strips of that always super tacky stuff you can buy to keep your cell phone in one place on your dash board....whatever it's called.

I'd like to take a moment to say thanks to Rob for posting the links on the 1st post. There's some definitely interesting things going on, but (I actually read the whole document) I don't see this as a threat to everyone's pocket knife. If you're carrying a "tacti-cool" folder, then yes, yours may be delisted. From the document, there were a grand total of 4 knives delisted, based on a revised interpretation of "switchblade", and basically a resolution to disallow knives that have 'assisted opening' mechanisms. Could this hurt the leather industry? If you're a sheath maker, maybe. I don't think it's really going to effect folks like DCKnives, who are making sheaths for custom hunting knives (and the knives), or folks making gear for LARP, SCA, etc. Thanks for the enthusiastic support whinewine. Don't worry, your head knife is safe.

Just a friendly reminder folks, let's make sure this doesn't turn into a political thread. We all have our opinions on who's doing what in the US, and what kinds of choices and consequences we'll face. But this site is for Leather. This site is also multinational in its membership, which is another reason the membership voted to keep politics out of it.

So is this going to be the Official June/July challenge?

Wow, there's folks from Texas to way south Florida responding. With such a huge area, we might have to look at regional guilds!!! We need to think BIGGER!!! While this site is a great place, and there's lots of members, everybody reach out and talk to anyone you know locally who isn't a member. There may well be enough folks to justify having several 'local' guilds. I'd hate to think that there's only 10 or so of us scattered all across the Gulf Coast. The other thing is travel distances. My idea of a guild is to have folks you can meet with. I'm not particulary keen on me driving or asking anyone else to travel more than an hour or two, especially with the economy and fuel prices. Keep 'em coming, we'll get it sorted out.

Tom, there's already a guild in Ga. if you'd rather have one closer. Call the Atl Tandy for info, as they meet there every other month or so. But if you're still interested in one down here...c'mon.

Tina, that is spec-freaking-tacular! I can easily see that one entered in a contest and taking "best of category", hands down.

From her description, square feed means that the needle goes straight down into the leather, then pulls it, as opposed to going down into the leather while it's moving. The advantage here is that there's no variation of stitch length when the material thickness changes- example: sewing a wallet where you go thin to thick to thin as you cross folds, seams, and pockets. Don't quote me on that, but that's how it was explained. The folks here with more experience might be able to explain it better.

Neat idea Kate!

Great topic Ray! Here in Mobile, Al, we've got a reeeeealy long history. It gets its name from the indiginous Mobilian Tribe. Mobile is a long time port city, first colonized around 1702 by the French. The rivers here were major trade routes for many years, going back to the colonial times. At different times, Mobile was a British, French, and Spanish colony. The historic society has wisely preserved Ft Conde, which once stood guard over the port, . We also have Ft. Morgan in Gulf Shores (other side of the bay) and Ft. Gaines on Dauphin Island which guarded the entrance to the bay/delta area. All the forts are open for tourism. More modern attractions include the USS Alabama, a WWII battleship that's open for tours, and Battleship Park, which hosts military vehicles and aircraft, and the occasional rugby game. There is also a submarine to tour in the park, the Skate. Oh, and Mardi Gras.....we musn't forget Mardi Gras! Mardi Gras began in Mobile back in 1703, but New Orleans typically has the biggest (and most raucus) party, so they get all the notice. Across the bay, there's also Blakely State Park, site of a civil war battle. Personally, one of the best times to visit is whenever we have a Jubilee. Due to certain attributes of the Gulf of Mexico, every so often, pretty much everything in the water comes to the shore. You can walk down the beach and load fresh seafood straight into an ice chest, filling it full in a very short time. Beat's waiting for something to bite your lure any day of the week. We have lots of things for tourists to do. Really old interesting stuff for the history buffs, and beautiful beaches (with appropriate scenery) for leacherous old scoundrels. Way out in the west end of the county, there's a little hovel with a novice leatherworker too.

Hi everyone, Regis and I have discussed the possibility of forming a leather guild here on the Gulf Coast. After a little checking around, it appears there's lots of people buying leather in our area. Granted, the Gulf Coast runs from Texas to Florida, so the area is huge. We're curious as to how many folks would be interested in forming a guild here. Initially, the idea seems a little wild, because of the large area. One idea is to have several chapters, spaced out along the coast. For example: One chapter for each of these areas- Houston, New Orleans, Mobile/Pensacola, Panama City/Ft. Walton, etc. This way local chapters can meet without excessive travel times, and the whole guild could meet perhaps semi-anually, or have online meetings (Johanna extended the offer for live chat) This is still in the "brainstorming" stage, so nothing is close to final. We're interesested in what you think, so chime in.

I too liked the price, as it's in the same range as the Boss, but apparently without the issues that have arisen from Tippman's decision to use Aluminum castings and Zinc parts. From what Mrs. Leila told me on the phone, the demo model they had set up went through 3 days of Joe Customer walking up and running it with no problems. As much as I like the idea of a Toro/Cobra, this one gets my attention more because it puts me "in production" at considerably less cost, and without implying anything political, and no offense to our multinational members....I like the idea of Made In USA. I'm thinking that this company is kinda like Kimber used to be- making a great product at an incredible price. Now let's just hope they don't go the way Kimber did and start using MIM parts to keep up with demand. (note: For those unfamiliar with Kimber, they're a firearm mfg.)

I spoke with Leila at Luberto's yesterday about their models . The cub series will sew up to 3/4", and down to chap weight. They're working on updating their website to show the cub/cub2 series. Hopefully, there will soon be an ad banner with their logo on it. Here's' what she sent via email: "More detailed information on the Cub: The Cub 6" arm (more accurate throat clearance than our advertised 5 1/2") weighs just 32 lbs, which makes it incredibly portable. The 9" arm weighs less than 40 lbs. We are coming out with a "Base" attachment very shortly which will preclude having to bolt the machine to any kind of stand, as well as a Flatbed attachment and additional feet. We are also working on an add-on Flywheel & motorization attachment for people who might wish that. This machine is patented, utilizing a totally new concept in sewing machine engineering and is not based on any other machine made. It is extremely simple with only three simple adjustments to the whole usage & maintenance of the machine. "Simply" - the best! As I said, the Cub utilizes a square feed, needle feed, jumpfoot action bringin the needle STRAIGHT down into the material, moving the leather through the machine as the jumpfoot rises, then setting the jumpfoot down to hold the leather for the next stitch. Feed dogs or "holding" effects beneath the leather are not needed. There is minimal needle deflection in this motion as the needle enters cleanly, not on the angle of the pendulum action machines such as the Juki, Adler, Consew, Seiko, Artisan, Cowboy, etc. And stitch length is not affected by thickness of material, but remains constant, unlike those machines. The Cub is a full rotary operated hand crank machine, each revolution creating a stitch. Therefore smoothly going into the next stitch for a continuous process, even and consistent. And, as you know it is proudly MADE IN THE USA, in Troy, Montana, just as the CLASSIC CUSTOM is. Hope this information is helpful to you in making your own decision, and you may feel free to pass it on. Our website should be updated & reworked within the next few weeks to include this new information and to make it more accessible. Leila Perlot-Luberto Luberto Manufacturing Inc. (formerly Luberto's Sewing Machines LLC) 215 E. Kootenai PO Box 3011 Troy, MT 59935 Ph: 800-419-9898 406-295-5785 "

To clarify, the lubricant I use is a dry teflon lube. You spray it on, and a teflon film remains. One source is RemDry, a gun lube, and I think "P'Blaster" makes one as well.

Ray, might I suggest that an ideal machine to use would be.... one of Badger's?

Adding a different view to this topic....it really depends on what type of lining you're talking about. I agree with the above posts. If we're talking about SASS/CAS holsters, it's another thing entirely. Anyone who's practicing or performing QuickDraw NEEDS to have a steel lined holster. AFAIK, they're actually required now. It also depends on the shooter, the firearm involved, and their level of competence. Consider the differences between an old Sheriff who's been doing the job for countless years, and a 10 year old kid who's watched too many westerns.

I've recommended wraping in a plastic bag because it gives you a very precious few thousandths of an inch clearance. I do this because wet molding to the actual gun and letting the leather dry on the gun, tends to make a very tight holster. Retention is great. Marvelous. Couldn't shake the dang gun out. Couldn't draw it either. As far as slicking up the interior of the hoslter.....I use teflon dry lubricant spray. Don't soke the leather with it, just hit the spots that are rubbing the most. That'll help with the draw and hopefully keep the user from stretching the holster while 'breaking it in".

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=35121 I don't see how you can get much cheaper than that ^.

he said expert.....oooo my sides are hurting.... I need to archive this post....I've never been called "expert" at anything before!!!!!

The sewing machine gurus will be along in a few... Until then, here's some things to consider: With shipping included, are you going to be pretty close to a new machine's price? If so, new is better. There's also the consideration of what the Juki was used for- if it's someone's old leather stitcher, then it probably has comparatively few "miles" on it. If it came out of a factory, well, the mileage is likely to be much higher. Another issue to think about is "what will it take to make a leather stitcher?" Generally, heavy leather stitchers are set up specifically for leather- a speed reducing pully to slow it down and add torque, and many now come with a DC motor instead of an AC one. There's nothing wrong with AC per se, but they generally get their torque from their speed, where a DC can produce the torque at slower speeds. Just my opinion, but I don't think you want a machine set up for running several thousand stitches per minute....at least not right now. Next is service- from what I've read, $1500 isn't a bad price ($3k-$5k machine), but will you have to rebuild it? What about when something breaks? There's a lot to be said for a warranty. AFAIK, the major suppliers here are more than willing to help out with questions, purchase or not. How about accessories? Does it have a stand and motor, or is it head only? There's lots of things to check on, I know, but if your mechanically inclined, have a bench and motor, etc, then a head only purchase might be a great deal. Personally, I'd be more inclined to add another $1k, and get a brand spanking new machine that has everything included, and comes set up ready to sew, but that's just me. Oh, one little thing.... Welcome to Leatherworker.net!

Several applications of Resolene come to mind. What specifically are you needing it for? With a little more info, we can give a better answer.

Nice hats! The streaking/blotching you see is a refractive/reflective reaction to the specific wavelength of the flash's 'light'. You don't normally see it when viewing because the 'normal' lightsource has several (many) wavelengths of light. So under 'normal' light, you see the reflection of lots of light colors, not just one. Also called light spectrum. I say 'reflection', because you aren't seeing the hat, but seeing the product of light waves bouncing off of it. I deal with this often (I'm a lighting tech), especially in grocery stores. In the meat departments, we use lamps/bulbs in the 3000-3500 Kelvin color range (more red/orange)- Sylvania color 730 or 830, or perhaps 735 or 835. The 8xx series has a higher CRI, or color rendering index. Whiter light, in the 4100K range tends to bleach out meat products, and the "daylight" colors in 5000K range look bluish in comparison. So, about the hats.....for the streaks and blotches to show up in a specific wavelength shows that although to your eye you have good coverage, there actually are streaks and blotches. Sorry for the bad news. In normal viewing, like outside, they'll never be seen, but if the wearer were to go to a club/bar that has blacklights......well, it's freaky hat time, same way that cologne and perfume shows up as little flourescent dots on clothing. As far as taking pics....it looks like you have that down pretty well. Use a multispectrum lightsource, and/or an opaque diffuser, tripod, and a graphics prog. to edit the pics as you like. Most of them are able to add light, shadow, sharpen or blur an image, etc.

Nice design, and very nice job on the tooling. One thing I'm concerned about though.....If the single clip is to hook on the rear belt loop, wouldn't that place the clip in a particularly painfull spot when the wearer sits or reclines?

Check in the 'specialty..' section. You might like some of the briefcases, or perhaps if you want a softside, check out the 'Indy Bag' thread.

Hi and welcome to Leatherworker.net. We're glad you found our little corner of the internet. There's lots of members, both amateurs and professionals, who'll be happy to help with any questions you might have. Ask away, and enjoy one of the friendliest sites on the 'net.