TwinOaks

Ed, I drilled a hole in a piece of metal (sized for the CS) and just added washers until I had the amount I wanted to remove sticking out one side. Then it was dremel time. For the male side, same thing, but I used a nut (pre-threaded on the post) to chase the threads after grinding.

The general consensus here is that Bob Douglas makes the best awls. Period. Search [ "Bob Douglas Awls" ], and use everything in the brackets. As for sharpening, use a stabbing motion to sharpen the tip, and strop it regularly.

If availability limits your choices, get the most machine you can. It's better to have an over powered machine that'll stitch dang near anything, and use only a portion of it's potential than it is to get a smaller machine that strains to do what you need. You never know, you might end up making tack, too. Cylinder arm......absolutely unnecessary for collars. Very handy for bags. If you get a cylinder arm, you can get/make a flatbed attachment for it. You can't shrink down a flatbed for times you NEED a cylinder arm. Buy new if at all possible. If you have to get a used one...well, privately owned machines may not have as much mileage, but also may not have much maintenance. Used factory equip will have more mileage, but are likely to have been well maintained.

It kinda depends on the model. I've seen some that basically follow the profile, and some that are not much more than a small cylinder. It's really what's available and budget. Monica, another option that comes to mind is to make a mold of the end of your bluegun, then cast it with resin. Finish by adding a small dowel as a mounting point, and drill out the muzzle of the bluegun. Once it's dried, you have your 'longslide'.

Hi Bobby/hnh, Welcome to Leatherworker.net. Good looking work in your pics. We're glad to have you with us.

If you must err, err on the side of 'too much' pressure. Having pressure set too low can lead to sputtering.

If you can't find the longslide, I'm wondering if you could use a barrel bushing mounted compensator. I don't think much of them for shootability, but for molding a longer slide.....

Ed, I'm certainly interested in the results! I do have a teensy recomendation for this.....portion into sealable containers early in the experiment. If this is similar to the stuff I used before (not on leather), it dries pretty quickly and you can get glue boogers inside the can that'll drop into the mix and make a mess when you try to spread it.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net, I'm sure you'll be able to get almost any leather question answered here. Here's one of the threads on inlays: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...092;inlay\

"Measure twice, cut once", and include common sense checking of sizes. " Measure once, cut once, toss out" results in new vocabulary.

Well, the @$^#%$#% IE8 won't export anything because I can't find a 'file' or toolbar button that will work. C'est la vie! 's alright, though. When I fought this program the last time ( I guess I just got lucky with it) I saved all the favorites to a separate file :spot on: for just such a reason. FF won't give me an option to import from anywhere other than IE, so I'll just have to manually open all the favs (in FF) then bookmark them. I think I'll try reinstalling 8 to overwrite anything that's glitchy then attempt removal again.

I don't have it, Tasha. I'm thinking maybe I'll just say "to hades" w/ IE and manually load all the favs from IE to the bookmarks. But....I hate to concede defeat to microsoft.

Howdy, I really prefer IE7 over IE8 and have endeavored to keep it as my microsoft browser, but IE8 keeps rearing it's ugly head. The version that opens up is glitchy...I don't have all my tool buttons, and almost none of the buttons (favs, add to favs, any menu options) work. My biggest issue is that when it opens (yes, I tried it, then decided I didn't like it, and removed it before) NONE of my favorites are there. I've imported them before, and I've got them saved off to another file, but it's like 8 won't even recognize that 7 had all the goodies. I know, I know, use FF....which I am, but for some things, I like IE. Here's the problem: I went to the CP to use the add/remove function. It told me I couldn't remove IE8, because it couldn't copy some .dll file...can't find it. Well, I went and found it, and proceeded with the 'normal' extraction of the program. Now when I reload 7, it tells me that it can't install because a newer version is installed. I went into program files/internet exploder and there it was. So I deleted it. It came back. Repeat, ad infinitum. I can't seem to make it go away. Using the add/remove function, it doesn't even show up on the list, but somehow it's still in the system....and it won't go away. I'm at the point that I believe the only way to 'kill' it is with some registry editting, but I'm woefully unskilled in that area, and understandably hesitant. So....is there something simple I'm overlooking that can render an 'easy' fix, should I attempt the regedit, or is the simplest method to just use a soft restore point? I'm reluctant to do the last as I've upgraded a few things recently, and though the soft restore point isn't supposed to delete everything, I'm skeered I'll have to go through a couple of hours of updates. ...and on the same note, how do I get rid of the "genuine windows verification"...crap that pops up everytime I restart. It blatantly states that it can't be removed, but I know there has to be a way. I'm not using pirated software, strictly full legal versions of everything, and I don't trust microsoft and their "we're not collecting any information about you" statement. I'm open to suggestions, and if need be, I'll drop a dime to make a call. Thanks for your time, Mike

Bad news, I don't think you'll find a machine in that price range that will give a consistant stitch like you're wanting. Maybe if you found a good Singer 201 on the cheap... I bought a singer 66, hoping it would do nice things, but the limitation is with what size thread the machine will handle. My '66' just won't handle thick thread and give a good stitch. You might have some luck with a machine like the Sailrite machines, or one in that class like Tuffsew, Consew, etc. but I think you'll be a little over $300. Regis told me he has a little Consew of that type and it does well. The extra money comes in when you put a servo motor on it. Also, when you can get a machine.....get one that'll do more than you think you'll need. For the angle of the thread question, it isn't how the needle penetrates, but how the hook wraps the bobbin thread, and the tension on it when it "locks" the stitch. Hand sewing can produce the same effect, you just have to do the same thing, and pull the same tension..every time. For example: when saddle stitching (2 needles) you run the right hand needle through to the left. Then run the left hand needle on top of the thread coming through the hole, while pulling down on the right hand needle (which is hanging from it's thread in the next hole). This positions the threads in the holes. Repeat. What used to be the left hand needle/thread is now the right hand, and vice versa. Just do it the same for every hole and you'll have that angled look you want. If you're so lucky to find a needle and awl machine for $300, forget the machine, and go get a lottery ticket.

I'll second the recommendation to try and work above the collar. If you're good with electronics (controls, etc.) you might consider something in 'instrumentation'. Very good money. My bro in law used to take a boat ride out to the offshore oil rigs to do PM work for them. He was getting $50/hr from shore to shore, and stayed one night on the rig. Most of his work was in an air conditioned office, just checking things. It was a cash job, and the company was happy at the price because he undercut a lot of people on the price. 'Machinist' is another excellent option. One of the businesses here is hiring machinists at $30/hr, and most of the work involved is setting up the CAD machines.

Hi and welcome to Leatherworker.net. We're glad you found our little corner of the internet. There's lots of members, both amateurs and professionals, who'll be happy to help with any questions you might have. Ask away, and enjoy one of the friendliest sites on the 'net.

It looks like several of us are thinking along the same lines- use a form of some sort. I like Dave's idea of taping it in place...beats mounting with screws.

Sorry to hear about your friend, Josh, please offer my condolences to his family. Take care of you and yours, and we'll be here when you're ready.

Here's KK's other tute for the insides: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9940 I've used this method, with some modification, and like it a lot.

Very nice work there! Looks like it should be just about right for a quarterhorse.....

Monica, I feel your frustration, but I've had no problems spaying resolene. I don't dilute it either. I use the cheap external mix AB from harbor freight.......at about 85-90 PSI. No clogging. Run some clean water for finishes, or straight 98% isopropyl alcohol for dyes.....at 85-90 PSI. So far, it's been a great method. If the alcohol actually damages something....well, it was six bucks.

Ask her who recommended you to her for the work. That person owes you a beer. This is another excellent example of why we need contracts and non-refundable deposits. If she's truly unhappy with the saddle, and has paid a deposit, then offer to remake the saddle for her. Set all design specs at the beginning of the job, and have her sign a "no change" contract. Explain everything about the saddle- stitching, what parts are what, etc. If she wants a saddle with no stitching in the skirts....well, give her one. Minus the sheepskin. If nothing else, sell the original saddle, or rebuild it as you see fit.

Ben, Yes, we definitely have lives away from leatherwork, and this site does have a topic area for rants. However, there was a recent poll on this site in which we debated the decision to have a forum for the discussion of politics (among other things) http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...\&st=0 I'm all for it, as I find myself more and more a political activist, especially in the area of the Constitution, and overexpansion of governmental influence. I'm the one who suggested the off topic forum, via PM, to Admin. Johanna decided to let the members make the choice. Lots of posts later, the majority decision is that there are plenty of other sites on the internet in which to engage in political discourse. The general consensus is that political debates here could drive a wedge between friends, and generally cause all kinds of unpleasantness. So, yes, it needs to be discussed, debated, and acted upon....but not on Leatherworker.net. I hope I'm not bending and feelings with this. I think the topic is important, and I'm glad to see the posting of the info, as per the original post.

I made one out of 3-4oz, and laced in the butt. It's a work in progress, as I intend to install a padded comb pad, a couple of shell holders, and a nice little pouch on the side of the stock for ear plugs. I would like to suggest being sure to use grommets or eyelets. It's easy to put a lot more pressure on the lacing holes than intended.

It's a knife that has a spring or cam that actively opens the blade once the blade is moved past a certain point. On one of the ones mentioned in the links, once you open the blade past 30 degrees, it snaps open and locks. There's various types, and perhaps one of our knifemakers could explain it more thoroughly.