TwinOaks

We've been in the upper 70s here in the deep south. To be fair about it though, we usually only have 3 seasons.

Yes skipj. The folks with green under their names are the moderators and can move/delete/edit posts. If you don't see one of the green meanies moderators online when you are you can always just click the "report post" button at the bottom left of the post. That flags it for the Mods to look at, and you can explain why you need it removed/merged with your other post.

Hi Bronson, With the two coats of resolene already applied I don't know if you can really do much about it. Whenever I use vinegaroon, I apply a generous amount of conditioner- about the same amount of conditioner as the fat kid at the fair has funnel cake icing on his face. Then, it has to be REALLY rubbed in well. The ferric acetate forces some of the tallows (waxes and fats) from the center of the leather. You may have noticed this as a water resistant dull to glossy "finish" on the leather immediately after the treatment. Usually, I hand rub in a couple of "glops" until the leather stops absorbing it. Yes, it can be overdone, but I've kinda learned how much to apply through experimentation. I'm using "Aussie" conditioner. Neatsfoot, being a liquid probably absorbs faster, so be carefull that you don't over do it. It's the reintroduction of the oils and tallows to the leather that deepens the black color. Also, when using Vin., I don't always apply a topcoat/sealer, relying on the conditioner instead. Now, about the resolene....Resolene is an acrylic finish. That basically means you've put a plastic coat on the holster. If you didn't apply it to the interior, you might be able to condition that way. There's a couple of threads about resolene, and why folks do and don't like it. One of the saddle makers said he doesn't like it because it can't be removed to condition the leather underneath.[paraphrased] I like it on holster exteriors well enough, but I'm gonna be trying some leatherbalm as an alternative. I just don't like the plastic feel of the resolene finish. Others, like K-man, use it pretty extensively and he turns out some fantastic holsters. To each their own.

Gives a whole new meaning to carrying "mace".

Egads! New Members have been missing out!!!!! A 'PIF' or 'pay it forward' is a gift that you make and send on to another member. IIRC, Tina had the original idea, then Wildrose managed one, and I did the last one. It's a great way to get members involved in leather projects, and perhaps introduce them to something they haven't seen. We have them every so often and we usually start with a list of participants. In two of the previous PIFs, the member below you on the 'roster' was your recipient, and on the last one we went with a randomized list. You can search the terms "Pay it Forward" and "PIF" and should get some results. There is usually a bit of 'customization' to the project, accomplished by researching your recipient. I think it's okay to do it, but I prefer to just make something in "my" style to hopefully show a novice something they haven't seen. Besides, "my" style is what I'm best at, and I don't wanna send somebody a colored swatch of leather and say it's "my best". Anyway, there's several threads with lots of pages each for your reading pleasure.

Hi and welcome back. This thread is to hopefully prevent a hijacking of Wildrose's info seeking thread. The topic is trigger weight on a gun used in a defensive shooting situation. My belief is that trigger weight won't be an issue in a shooting provided the following stipulations are true: 1. It's a self defense shooting, against an attacker/intruder 2. It is NOT a result of a negligent discharge- this would include missing your target and hitting someone else. 3. The trigger work is done by a competent gunsmith and not "bubbafied". I don't think there'd be any presecution against a person for defending themself even if it was with a supermodified racegun with a sub 1lb. trigger. As long as the situation warrants the shot(s) I don't see how the choice of tools (the gun) matters in the least. Also, by my training and as a civilian, I follow the philosophy that if I reach the point that I'm drawing a weapon that it WILL likely be used. By that, I don't mean that if I draw a pistol/revolver I'm going to shoot. What I mean is that I take defense seriously enough that I have several options available with the gun being the final layer of defense. If I get to that point and draw a gun then the BG screams an expletive and hauls tail....well, the threat is over. But I won't draw/brandish a firearm as a threat or warning. I have been in several defensive situations. All but one were resolved with either verbal warning or pepperspray. I really hope that some of our LEOs and former LEOs will chime in on this one to provide some professional insight. I've got the fire extinguisher handy, flame away. Mike

Johnny's post got me thinking and I'd like to clarify my comments about trigger work. I don't mean that the triggerweight on a revolver should be taken to VERY light weights - say the ~2lb and under range. That should be reserved for special purpose pistols used only in competition. The basic trigger job, IMO, smooths things out and removes tool marks, burrs and rough spots. This gives a smoother trigger pull with a clean breaking point and less creep, which is the feeling of trigger movement when there shouldn't be any....usually side to side. The result is a trigger pull that feels lighter and is smooth all the way to the break. Personally, I don't think it's an issue if it's performed "to spec" by a competent gunsmith, and Johnny and I disagree to an extent there. However, he does raise a valid point about possible litigation issues and we are continueing the discussion 'off board'. I'll start up another thread in "off topic" for that discussion.

Johnny, please check your PMs

to Leatherworker.net! Great looking work rht!

I'm far from "top holster maker", but I'll try to help with the answer. At least one of them DIPS the holster in the finish then hangs it to dry, cleaning up any runs and drips at the same time. It also greatly depends on the finish being used. The "THMs" will have to answer as to which they use.

Good reply Shorts, very informative and insightful. I'm gonna recommend the S&W M&P series, compact or fullsize. From your description, it doesn't sound like hand strength will be an issue and therefor slide manipulation probably won't either. The thing that counts most is the trigger. After all, its very unlikely she'll be loading mags during a robbery/B&E. The M&P, like the Glock and other striker fired weapons, has a consistent trigger pull for every shot. As a new shooter, it will be easier for her to develop good habits with a good trigger. I only mention the M&P because I'm most familiar with it, and I like it's LIFETIME WARRANTY (over Glock's 1 year), interchangeable backstraps on the grip to better fit the pistol in the hand, ambidexterous controls and you don't have to pull the trigger to fieldstrip it. Is it the only one? Absolutely not. Among the other 'good' mfgrs I know about......Taurus (24/7-OSS), Ruger SR-9, S&W Sigma, Kahr (model?). My wife carries the M&P compact in .40 cal. If you're leaning towards a revolver, the Ruger sp101 is a true workhorse capable of handling magnum loads. And it isn't as light as an airweight (S&W), because it's made from stainless steel. Smith and Wesson makes some fine revolvers but they are a little pricey. Besides Taurus, you might also check out Rossi revolvers. They have excellent warranties and 6 shots as opposed to 5. Personal recommendation for a revolver is for .357 magnum. As previously stated, it will handle a variety of loads from soft shooting .38 spcl 'target loads' to full house magnums. She could even throw in couple of shotshells for varmits. If she dislikes the long heavy trigger, it's better to get one with an exposed hammer which can be cocked (or decocked)......single action triggers are usually the most accurate due to less movement of the hand muscles. A gunsmith can smooth and lighten the trigger pull on most revolvers significantly without compromising the function of the pistol. Remember, as it comes from the factory, it doesn't have labor consuming polishing and precision fitting done to it. Another note about revolvers: Generally, grips can be changed out to the shooters preference. Check out a variety of them. My personal preference (in defiance of all the advice above) is the old 1911 platform in .45ACP. It fits my hand well, and I'm very comfortable with using the manual (thumb) safety and carrying it in 'condition one'. It's what I learned on, and I'm big enough that concealment of a fullsized 1911 isn't a problem. I also like the fact that it offers one of the best single action triggers ever designed for a pistol, as I practice to make the first shot count not scare. Once she's found a pistol or revolver she's comfortable with, I can recommend a website to locate a holster maker for it...... Good Luck in your shopping, M

Steve, When are we gonna get to see some pics of the new machines? Not all of us are able to make the trip to Wickenburg and the website is Pic-Free. It might help sales to see what it is. From what I've heard, it's kind of 'standard' for a 441 clone, but that Cobra changed the needle plate out to facilitate 'grain out on both sides' sewing. I, and I suspect others, hope to see some pics on the new website. Thanks, Mike P.S. Sorry about the slight hijack

If you've got A LOT of them to make, it might be worthwhile to see if someone with a clicker could make them and ship them to you. It be a good way to use up the scraps.

shoelast?

Are you pulling around the back at the same angle as the front?

Right here on the forum, but you'll need to do a little reading. Also use the search function to bring up a list of threads on the topic. They're mostly in this section, but there may be a few scattered here and there in other sections too.

Hi PS0303, to Leatherworker.net! To answer some of the questions you posted: (my opinion) IWB holsters should be sturdy enough to support the gun, but thin enough to comfortably wear. That said, I prefer 6-7oz leather for IWBs. The way to keep the holster open is to add a reinforcement along the opening of the holster. This band can be further strengthened by having a stiff material between the layers of leather. Horseshoe leather holsters have a band of spring steel sewn in to keep the holster mouth open. Other materials can be used as well. Typically the band attachment can be accoplished through glueing, stitching, or both, or rivets. Rivets don't look so great and you have to be very careful about the placement of them to prevent damage to the finish on the gun. Stitching will do fine by itself, and the additional step of glueing keeps the leather from developing "pockets" between the leather (which can make a really annoying squeaky sound). For your first holster, an "avenger" style is pretty easy to do, and there's a tutorial here for one here. It isn't really an IWB, but it's a good starting point to learn some basics. Most of my IWBs are a 'pancake' variety, which is two pieces of leather with the gun between them. Those require a bit more stitching but I prefer two attachment points for belt loops.

Hilly, you're making it worse......since I got zapped hard a few years ago, I can't handle alcohol anymore.....as in my body doesn't process it very well. A single hard lemonade and I'm good for about an hour and a half before I pass out. Yeah, cheap date, but it makes drowning sorrows so NOT fun anymore.

Hi Paula, and welcome to Leatherworker.net! We're glad you found our little corner of the internet. There's lots of members, both amateurs and professionals, who'll be happy to help with any questions you might have. Ask away, and enjoy one of the friendliest sites on the 'net. As for "just started", well, you're doing a great job. When you're ready, feel free to post some pics of your work in the "critique my work" section. There, you'll get honest feedback and suggestions on how to improve your work....and maybe a tip on what NOT to do. C'mon in and grab a chair. Sit a spell and get to know the folks.

Since I couldn't afford the other price, at over $2k, I decided to spend tax return $$ on other things I could use......now there's not enough left.

He's also added to the 'ambiance' of the store with some Hendrix on the CD player. He couldn't make any promises, but we did discuss the possibility of a lava lamp. Next time I'm up there, I'll see if I can talk him into adding some Clapton, SVR, Carlos Santana, and Rolling Stones to the mix.

Howdy, I travel for my job and when I have work in Montgomery, Al., I try to stop by the Tandy store there. On Monday, I stopped in an placed an order. Instead of taking everything with me I had it shipped to my house, because I couldn't take the leather with me on my work truck. Everything went well and my order was being packed for shipping as I left. Yesterday my wife called to let me know that the box had arrived and was crushed to hades and was torn open and retaped (badly). I had her check the contents and everything BUT the leather was missing. My next call was to Chance at the Montgomery store. He emailed a copy of the invoice, told me what to do next, and I relayed the "refuse shipment" instructions to my wife. Then he told me that he would have replacements shipped out today. As it turns out, I was able to stop by and pick the items up. He handed me a receipt for "replacement items" with a grand total of NO COST. He could have easily told me that I had to wait until he was able to process the damaged shipment credit from UPS. Instead, he made sure that I, the customer, was the priority. That type of customer service is what keeps me as a customer, and what all companies should strive for. A hearty "Thank You" to the staff there. If you get shipments from the Alabama store, give them a call and talk to Chance, he's very knowledgeable and a pleasure to do business with.

The back side of headstones with typos work nicely too. They're also pretty cheap.

wood or poly- cutting board of the appropriate thickness, cut to the shape of the magazine.

What about some type of ribbon/strip? You could whip stitch the shearling (presuming you're using shearling) to the strip and then glue that to the leather so you have a denser surface for the glue. You also get a clean-ish edge instead of variable thickness wads of shearling(?) Use a thread that closely matches the color of the liner and it'll be nearly invisible. Option 2. Add a new stitch line next to the closure. ?