TwinOaks

Howdy Spence, welcome to leatherworker.net.

Stitch it flat then fold it. You'll learn through experimentation how much leather you need to wrap it. I'd give a formula, but nobody seems to measure the same....so, build a few and experiment!

I hope this doesn't come off as petty or obtuse, but how does this affect us as leatherworkers? I can see the application of the new rules to clothing related items, but what about the rest of it? Do the dyes contain the prohibitted stuff or something? Waxed thread? And I ask this because I really don't know.....: Does anything in the tanning process include lead? Okay, I can see it possibly being in rivets, but seriously, if we buy from suppliers who sell "approved" products, doesn't that guarantee that products made from pre approved materials are "approved"? In regards to the plastics....I've been considering some kydex or similar products for reinforcements in holsters- if the kydex is approved and I use it, do I have to send off a holster for lead testing? Thanks for your input, I'm trying to develop an extra-small business, and I don't know which way to go.

Oh no! The "which AWl?" question!!! I'll save everyone a bunch of typing and list the top three answers: 1 Bob Douglas 2 Bob Douglas 3 Bob Douglas However, if you can't get a Douglas awl, the Osborne from Tandy can work. As it comes from Tandy, it's a little big (wide) in cross-section. This is easily remedied with a Dremel and a sanding disk or grind stone attachment. After reshaping, sharpen on a stone, and strop it. If you find the length a little long, you can stack some washers (leftovers from hole punching) on the blade to take up some space. The washers also keep the ferrule of the awl from marking the leather. The "hand sewing kit" from Tandy has some good info, but the blades are really too large for hand stitching- not bad for lacing, but not for stitching. You could modify the blade on it as well, but I don't know how good the steel is, so take your chances.

If memory serves, I think it was Tina that started it and it just snowballed from there. As for my part in this one, I'm just trying to help out here any way I can. I was glad to do it, and am certainly willing to help in future PIFs.

When I read the topic I wondered if your wife had seen it......and whether you could still walk. Beautiful work. I'll eventually be moving into tack making, and this is just inspiring.

Did you remember to deglaze before dying? It looks like a resist of some sort.

Have you considered skiving or splitting the leather to a more manageable thickness?

At least he didn't re gift forward them to you as a PIF.....

I'd forgotten all about this thread.....Dickf, thanks for the frank input about coffeecup. It's been suggested to me, but I didn't have any info on it. It sounds like just learning html is just the easiest way to go......time to go buy a book.

to your new addiction! This is, hands down, the best site on the web to learn about leather. Think up some questions and post 'em, we're happy to answer them.

This one of <insert reverb> The Lost Threads Thanks for posting the inspiration, Johanna.

Hi all, Today on lunch I stopped in at the Montgomery Tandy. There I met the new manager, Chance. He's out of the Atlanta store, and is already a member here. He also already knows a few of the ATL area leatherworkers...... Drac, he singled you out. He's really excited about renewing the business at this store, and I got to see a little of what he can do- nice stuff. So, if you shop out of this store, Noah is gone and Chance is at the wheel. Don't worry about Tina, she's still there. In our conversation, one topic we covered is the store's "in stock" selection, and he assured me that everything will soon be as it should. He also knows leather, and how to tell #1 hides from what should be sent to the scrap bin, so anyone who's been a little miffed about the quality of a hide they've received, it's being corrected. Chance said he's still in the relocation process, and doesn't have his ISP yet, but said when he does, he'll visit us here. Y'all chime in, or better yet, drop in at the store and give him a hearty welcome.

George, Have you considered using the flat rate boxes from the USPS?

Tuckable isn't all that hard- you just have to make a gap for the shirt to fill. The easiest way to do it is make splits next to the body of the pistol. Effectively, the holster is attached to the 'wings' only at the bottom. Now, making a tuckable that conceals and carries well.....that's where the skill comes in.

AFAIK, stiffeners are glued/sewn in place. For something like a thumb break snap, the snap connector (rivet/screw/etc) will hold the reinforcing tab in place.

I agree that spare mags should be on the weak side. An alternative would be to make the spare pouch a cross draw, which I could see working well. I don't see it working well to have holster and spare pouch as one unit. This is, of course, providing that he has two working hands. If he's down to one hand, then yeah, I can see cradling the pistol with the weak side arm and reloading from strong side. All the tacti-cool holsters that have a spare mag on the front of the holster (top of the slide) are more for show than anything else...specifically, see how many swat officers use the $15 dollar gun-show-special holsters.

Nice looking bracelet, and since you're under 5 bars, no you don't post too much.

How many times have you glanced down and jumped because you thought something had climbed onto your foot?

to Leatherworker.net! You've got some nice work there, and I'm sure Blackie won't mind too much when you load those down. You even made your first post with pics......that makes lots of friends!!!! We're glad to have you here, ask away with any questions, and speak up if you can answer any you see. This is the best site on the 'net, and folks are always happy to help out. Tell Johanna when the coffee needs brewing, bathrooms are down the hall, and stay away from the donuts.

Well, the topic description says "smoke" dying leather....I'd never heard of anything like it, other than like in the meat. Why didn't you just say "powdered dyes"??? I've been cooking since I replied to this thread the first time.....now, what am I gonna do with this smoked shoulder?!??! Oh, and please do give more info on the powdered dyes, it sounds interesting.

Not sure if it'll apply to leather, but my family has smoked a turkey using cherry wood for many a Thanksgiving. The cherry wood creates a nice red ring about a 1/4 inch deep in the meat. Are you concerned about the heat damaging the leather?

Eco-dyes are water based, Fiebing's are alcohol based. As such they dry at drastically different rates. I like to let my dye coats mostly dry, as it shows where the streaks are. Since I switched to spraying the dye on with an airbrush, drying time is measured in seconds, with a light buffing with a dry cloth between coats (if more than one is needed) to remove excess solids. I've only had to do that once, though, because the spraying gives such even results. The time between coats if you're applying with a sponge or dauber will vary with ambient conditions- temp., humidity, and airflow being the key ones. For the final finish/sealer my preference is for the piece to be completely dry before application.

Your running ends get snipped close and tucked under another pass...unless you plan on untying it at some point.

I'm also getting interested in a machine, and a new one just isn't in the budget right now. Gregg, if you're upgrading more than one, I might be interested in what you've got.