TwinOaks

The method used on that strap is really just a Blood Knot - commonly seen in saddlery

I think you'll have better results with the steel wool...(burnt off to remove any anti-corrosion coatings and oils) 1 You know what's in it. The nails are most likely just mild steel, but you don't know the FULL cause of the rust...there could be caustic chemical corrosion as well as plain ol' moisture rust. 2 You will know how much you're adding of both steel and vinegar 3 The steel wool has a MUCH larger surface area to mass ratio, which means the 'roon will brew faster.

holes are too big for that thread

I think the blue streak was caused by over spray (from the edges) onto the white lettering.

True mastery of a craft is not measured by never making mistakes. It is measured in how well one RECOVERS from making one.

Brettun's Village is running a clearance/special on teeny tiny hole punches - $20 check their site under "even smaller punches". They aren't oblong, but at that size, I don't think you'll find anything other than round....or "used to be round".

Use a lighter (or other heat source) and heat the base of the blade for several seconds, then pull. I broke the tip on an Osborne and discovered that it was pressed AND glued. Don't worry about the heat on the blade - it won't damage the temper. You're only heating it up a little bit, and you'd need to get the steel several hundred degrees to change the hardness/tempering of it. If there's any glue, the heat should soften it. As far as what to use? Any of the above, but if you don't have a vice... I'd say a pair of pliers with taped jaws.

it's what sewing machines do.....and handi-stitchers. From one side, push a loop of thread through the hole, and run the second thread through the loop. Then, pull the loop back into the leather. Each thread stays on its side of the leather.

Avgvstvs, You can eliminate the contrasting stitches by altering the sewing method. IMO, the best stitch to use here is a lock stitch. Each thread (front/back) stays on its side of the strap, only making the 'lock' inside the hole. You have to be careful with your tensions to avoid pulling the lock to the surface, but it would allow you to keep black thread on one side and tan/beige/white thread on the other. I believe that would give you the look you're after.

Welcome to the best site on the web! As you explore the possibilities of leather, be careful which leathers you burn. Pyrography on chrome tanned leathers can produce hazardous fumes, so if you use them, be sure to use a fume hood or some type of exhaust venting.

It should NOT be confused with a product called "Saddle-Lac", which is similar, but MUCH shinier IMO.

Wyo-sheen. I think SLO carries it as a stock item. ETA - Yep...http://www.sheridanleather.com/WyoSheen_p/wyosheen.htm

Welcome to the forum, we'll be glad to help you learn the craft, and look forward to seeing your projects

By and large, the best way to learn to make patterns is just to start making things. A lot of things can be mocked up using stiff file folders or cereal boxes, but you should be prepared to use a good portion of your leather in 'trial and error'...hopefully not too many errors, though. Youtube and this forum are two resources that a lot of us didn't have, even a decade ago, let alone those who've been making things longer. Here on the forum, do a search for "tboyce", a member that has posted a LOT of patterns in .pdf format. A lot of the T&E has been removed by having Tom's patterns available, and from them you can extrapolate how to wrap things. Sorry to say, but very few people pick up this craft and just start turning out masterpieces (yes, there are a few). There is a sub-forum called "getting started", which addresses many of the questions you might be asking. Other things to look at here on the forum are the 'pinned' topics at the top of the sections here, and many of the "how do I do that" topics...which are just chock full of great info. There are several 'monthly challenges' already posted, so those might be a good place to start. They use some of Tom's template/patterns but the details are up to the makers. We also have a chat room feature, which is a terrific way to get live interaction with other members. A note, however....the chat room is where a lot of us go to be silly, so while you'll likely get some good info, you may think we're all stark raving lunatics.

well done, and super clean stitching

Your leather goes directly on the slab. The effort is to get as solid of a surface under the leather as possible....so, no padding between the two. You should, however, look at placing a pad under the slab. There's been more than a few people who've bedded their slab in a 'sand box' - just an open top box with a really close fit to your slab and filled with sand. You might also look at placing some sort of padding under the legs of the table you're using. If all else fails, get some DRY sand, fill up a few heavy bags and place the legs of your table ON the sandbags (with adequate precautions to prevent puncturing). What you're looking to do is isolate the vibrations that would otherwise travel through leather to the slab, from the slab to the table/desk, and through the table/desk to the floor.

Pip-squeak Leather Incidentally, I still have that small pouch I got from you in one of the Pay It Forward rounds.

no fire??? ....

It would be closer to 'stain' or 'antique', than actual dye, and yes you can color the leather with it (that's what ya do with shoe polish, right?) But...I don't think the paste will penetrate the leather as much as dye will.

Fire and melty/burny things.......mmmmmmm..... I really really really really really really really shouldn't do that......I can already hear the fire engines with me just thinking of it....

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It will depend on the tannage of the suede. If it's actual "suede", which is chrome tanned, then no, it won't slick up like vegtan leather. If it's a brushed vegtan split, then you should be able to shave it to smooth, and burnish.

Given the look of it, the only thing keeping me from saying "vinyl" is that you called it leather, first. Methinks there's too much charge for a brand in those pics.

That's where I was when I tried making mine. IMO, it's far less costly to just save up for an actual splitter

This topic has so much incredibly detailed and valuable info in it that it has been "pinned". Access to the topic won't change (at least not yet), but it will likely be at the top of the 'leather sewing machines' sub-forum. Thank you Eric, for sharing your knowledge and skill with us.