TwinOaks

I drilled out the core of one of my wood mallets (drilled from one side, only) and back filled with #8 shot. Then I mixed fast set epoxy and the drill chips as a plug. I only use the undrilled side for tool contact, but the result was pretty good. My next foray was using a hole saw and making a bunch of 'donuts' from an HDPE cutting board. I stacked those on a long bolt, and held in place with a flat back t-nut. That result was excellent, but I still think a solid faced hammer/maul will perform better.

I have done something with a block planer blade, but it doesn't quite make it to being called a "splitter". The splitter needs to have a pretty specific angle, and while I got close, my attempt fell short at being able to maintain the correct angle against the forces involved. I'm NOT saying it can't be done, but offering the insight that the established bench top splitter designs can be found at decent prices....and that those prices come REALLY close to 'even' when you consider time and fabrication costs.

This.

I didn't use a pattern per se, but they're pretty simple. Sewing in the gusset was the hardest part about it. The straps just attach to the back via fastener or loop. The flap, front, and back panels all have the same shape, with length adjustments as needed. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=10015

My thoughts and policy, too. My doctor (an avid and expert shooter, qualified instructor, and reserve Deputy) and I discussed this in detail and he brought in an x-ray of a spine that had been damaged as described above. The vertabrae where the gun was was offset almost 1" ....which is really really close to the 1.18" width of the Glock the person was carrying - SOB and across the spine.

Not the only machine that can sew 3/4......

This may seem a little off-topic, but bear with me.... Scientific process, regardless of the complexity of the components, is always very simple. Observe a phenomenon, state a hypothesis, test it, and then state the results of the tests. In this case, I feel the first two are backwards. As has been said, there is a bias towards veg-tanned leather. That leads to the process being State the hypothesis (veg-tan is best), then observe and test FOR results that support the hypothesis. It's absolutely fine if you prefer one leather over the other, and if you are searching for evidence to support that then you'll likely find it. But that doesn't mean that contradictory evidence can be discarded or discounted. Also, I suggest that it is nigh impossible to write an OBJECTIVE article when one admits to having a bias in one direction or another. It's too easy for personal values and opinions to effect the writing - even unintentionally. Now - some specifics: Chrome tanned leather that gets a patina - pig, goat, horse, cow, and some of the exotics like ostrich and alligator. The patina comes from repeated exposure to moisture and oils, as well as light friction. Which means: it gets handled a lot by sweaty hands or goes in and out of a pocket....or gets a fair amount of grease/oil on them some other way. My wallet is an off the shelf cheapy from Walmart ( Because I don't have a machine that'll sew that fine, and I don't have any 1/2 oz leather). I know based on the price point alone ($12) that it isn't veg-retanned from Horween....but it's got a nice little patina on it. My work boots have a suede-ish finish called Nubuck....and there's shiny patina areas around the heel cups, and the toes where they've banged up against stuff....or the suede-ish finish was rubbed smooth. At the beginning of post #18, cited from the article : Chrome tanned leather will initially be softer and suppler than vegetable tanned leather but will not age well. Over time it will grow prone to breakage.Ummmm....no. That's closer to backwards than truth. Because the leather fibers are softer, they will be LESS PRONE to breakage, though CT is in general not as tough or hard as vegtan. This means it could be cut more easily. However - Chrome tanned leather for garments is usually thinner than veg-tan because hey, who wants to wear a 15lb jacket? If the thought is to point at the bottoms of bags/purses, etc. and say "see, that leather broke", then I'd insist on differentiating between abrasion and breakage. Does veg-tan have greater strength in some applications? Certainly, that's why items that need strength are often made with VT. But in something like a bag, the repeated flexing of a flap or repeated folding in the same place, will cause the fibers to become weak. Weak enough to break? Probably not, as long as the leather is cared for. Wait....what was that? "Cared for"? Here is another benefit of using CT - because of the difference in tanning process, CT leather doesn't require the conditioning that VT needs. Yes, you can wipe down your jacket and car seats, and should. But straight from the hide, the CT needs less conditioning and finishing work, as well as less maintenance over the long run. Hmmm....evidence....well, I've still got a leather jacket from 23 years ago, as well as a leather blazer (suede) that was handed down from my dad's uncle...I'm pretty sure it's from the late 1960's. Both are still pliable, still comfortable to wear, and both still look great (though admittedly, I think MY leather jacket looks good with the scuff marks- each one has it's own tale). So, that's two examples of some CT that have aged well, and aren't prone to breakage. My dad has pair of Florsheim shoe's that he's had for around 35 years...do those count? So....if it's so great, why don't we use it for everything???? Because VT is better for some things, and trying to carve on CT isn't very fun. Incidentally, if the intent is to write an objective article, then one should NOT overlook the OTHER leathers that are produced....to include - brain tanned (already mentioned), Alum tanned (or Tawed), and UN-tanned (commonly called Rawhide). Oh, and the subcategories, too, to include Oil tanned, Bridle leather, Latigo, re-tanned (both directions), etc.

In that particular category, Camano has it right. The post itself required approval, as well. I'll go check the topic and get some approvals underway, thanks for the heads up that it was doing that. **ETA** Done.

This whole thing appears to be an attempt to gain some validity in an obviously biased point of view. The real downside to marketing like this is that while the OP *might* reach a broader market audience, their bias and lack of real research will completely turn off anyone who bothers to do their own research. For example: Me. I don't make everything I use, so that means I buy a decent amount of it. Given the misinformation in this article, I'd go out of my way to avoid the seller who uses that intro. Then the defensive statement questioning Nstar - "....could it be that you possibly are a little skewed towards chrome tan for a various reasons?" gives me reason to think that the OP doesn't want to or can't defend their statements. There are multiple types of leather in the world, and they've been developed for a reason. There is no ONE BEST LEATHER. Period. There are 'best leathers' for a particular use, and loudly proclaiming otherwise is akin to arguing that there's a way to polish the clean end of a turd.

My preference is tracing with a pencil, then transferring by 'chasing' the lines with a ball point pen. It rolls smoothly on the paper, and the ink stands out from the pencil enough that you can see anywhere you might have missed when tracing the pencil lines.

Regardless of the type of thread, I back stitch by hand. Even when I do a project using a Boss machine, I leave enough thread and back stitch using saddle stitching. I've had exactly ONE time where it pulled out, and it was because of poor planning and I had the start/end of the stitching too close to a major stress point. I moved the stitching around ( I re-sewed it) and put the start/end further away from the stress point, and solved the problem. Saddle stitching the lock also provides the opportunity to use a half stitch so that both thread ends are on the same side of the leather.

Overall the work is very nice, but since critiques were welcomed, I'm going to nit-pick on something pretty minor....but it's something that will give the carving a more "finished" look. Almost all of the beveling has the "halo" effect around it. That can be reduced or eliminated by careful use of modelling spoons/tools. It's an extra step and time consuming, but the results are well worth it. The result is that each element stands out more instead of being individual elements set into the piece.

I have a Boss, and for thicker items I prefer it over hand stitching. For a lot of smaller things like small sheaths, I just break out the needle and awl. For something like a bag or a belt, you'll only make one or two with the Boss, then you'll buy a motorized machine. The Boss excels where space and/or portability are essential. It will handle thicker (3/4") leather and it's easy to control because YOU are the power supply. Since YOU are placing every stitch, it's really simple to put the stitch exactly where you want it. However, when you make a lined belt, that means pulling the lever for every single stitch...at 5 or 6 spi (stitches per inch) x length of the belt ( a size 36 waist uses a 42-45 inch belt strap) x 2 (top and bottom row of stitches)...it adds up quickly. If portability and space aren't an issue, I'd strongly recommend getting a motorized machine as your first machine, and you can get a decent medium weight machine for about the same money as the Boss. **I've also had some slight adjustment issues when trying to use thinner thread on the Boss...it seems to like heavier threads, but that may just be MY sewing machine** Now....about Leather Working - While the overall quality of the tools and material in them isn't the greatest, there are several companies offering "starter kits", The kits come in several size/skill levels. Tandy Leather is probably the most common supplier of them. And while they aren't the best, they DO have what is needed to complete the projects listed...most importantly - INSTRUCTIONS. You *will* want to upgrade tools as you go, but for just getting started, the kits are a good way to go as they teach you process as well as construction.

First off Welcome to leatherworker.net. There's a WHOLE lot more to making that wallet than "here's the pattern, and a sewing machine" (which aren't cheap). You can check out the sub-forum on wallets, belts, etc. to get an idea of how it's done, and Tboyce has some printable pattern .PDFs ETA: dang it, madhatter, ya beat me to 'reply' button

It seems a little redundant....essentially, you're looking to make a wiki version of THIS site? Leatherworker.net already IS the single largest compendium of leather working knowledge.

Another vote here for end grain wood. You can probably check at Home Depot, or Lowes , and ask for the scrap pieces from their lumber section. Just cut them uniformly glue well and clamp together. Or if that isn't available, a single pine stud is typically less than $5. The end grain of wood will spread around the punch instead of coming out in plugs, so you'll have good longevity, and once you have the 'board' glued up, you can mount it to another surface for more mass. While it may not be as protective for the punch as lead, I'd rather sharpen punches a little more often than deal with the lead exposure. Or need to go through the "This product contains lead...." hassle with paperwork, regulations, etc.

showing up in the N. GA CL ads...nothing local to me, though

trying to fit into the motif with arrows, what about slots and tabs...with a miniature arrow going through the tabs to keep the flap closed?

You should look at burying the sheath in the cat litter/clay dust for at least 24 hrs. You're going for the removal of all excess oil, so if it's REALLY wet with oil, it might even need longer

what do you mean by 'gusset pattern'? AFAIK, 'gusset' refers to basically a strip between front and back panels, and is typically just a rectangular strip, or in some cases, tapered a bit on the ends.

The sun tanning method is essentially permanent. You *might* be able to pull some of it out with really really really fine sand paper - like 2000 grit and a very light touch. To prep for dyeing, use some denatured alcohol and lightly wipe off the areas you want to dye. It will really depend on how much olive oil you applied, and what kind of finish the leather was sealed with. If it's unsealed, and not oiled too heavily, then dye could go straight on with no other prep. If it is sealed, the denatured alcohol should pull the finish off. If it's over oiled, you'll need to bury it in something like clay powder (un-scented cat litter) to pull the oil out of it.

A halter? No. But I did hand sew a little bit of tack repair. My advice somewhat general, but here it is: Make some finger protectors. PLAN your stitch lines, and put a binder clip or clothes pin on any trouble areas - which piece goes over which, etc. Use a reasonable length of thread (about 3 feet at the most), pre-cut your strings, and don't try to stretch them an extra few stitches. When the thread starts looking dirty, splice in the next piece. Don't sew with a cat in the room. Use an overstitch wheel when you're done. Post pics of the finished piece.

Mark Smith, former CEO of ADTRAN (a tech company) was asked what he would do about a rival company copying his designs - as in purchasing, reverse engineering, and producing. He said "Nothing. It's millions of dollars in legal fees, probably years of lawsuits, and besides....by the time they reverse engineer it, we're already two generations ahead." Don't settle on a single design for anything. In the eyes of most consumers, "newer is better", so keep innovating.

Since this thread is a year old, it's likely that the machine is no longer available. If you're interested in the narrow throat version, mine is available. PM for details, please.

To finish off hand stitching, I backstitch in the same holes 2.5 stitches. The half stitch is so that both threads are on the same side of the leather. Once that's been done, pull a little bit tighter on the stitch and cut it close to the leather. That little bit of extra tension will cause the cut end of the thread to pull back into the hole, or at least lie flush with it.