Kevin

If you're just starting out, linen is easier on your hands and you'll learn a lighter touch and not bury the thread too deep (cut the leather). Have fun, Kevin

I use both Weaver and Sedgwick, there is no comparison at all. I only use the Weaver's for halter repairs and since they've started using Cahin tannery, I've started getting big fleshy spots in the middle of backs, so it doesn't give you much good leather to work with. Is the Sedgwick worth the difference? Depends on what you're doing. If you're working on or making English type tack, there's not much choice. The English tannage is much denser, so you can use a thinner piece and have the same strength. I could go on and on, but I won't, Kevin Supposedly Wickett & Craig is trying to make something like Sedgwick's without the spew (I don't know why, spew is good). I also read they are going to try to reproduce some Scholz leather. Some of that was fantastic.

Julius is correct, 64ths is just what it happens to measure out at coincidentally. Kevin PS a quarter (.25$) is 4 oz.

As you have seen with the power cord, the belt isn't that complicated. I usually just use heavy skirting and make either a round belt or a vee belt, depending on what is needed, or you can go to any parts store and get a belt, take it home and cut it to the length you need, butt the ends together and join the ends with heavy thread. The belt isn't running at a high speed and the thread will hold up as well as a staple. Kevin

I agree that the Artisan can do better, but the Campbell stitch would look better if the awl was twisted instead of straight. Kevin

Since nobody else has answered,I'll give my half assed answer. I think I've read 20 degrees somewhere. My answer is every knife is different and you've got to find what you like best. I go for the thinnest edge I can get without it getting a wire edge, sometimes even that is ok once you remove it. Thickness of the metal and hardness is what dictate the angle. Hopefully someone else will pitch in now with a correct answer, Kevin

Try searching Campbell Bosworth. You don't see too much about them because they do have a learning curve and are relatively expensive. In the last ten years, prices on single needle machines have come down from 4,500 to less than 2,000. Single needle machines can do alot more different types of work and are easier to change over for different work. All that said, nothing makes the beautiful tight stitch with linen thread running through wax that the Campbell makes. The Landis 16 is a good machine. If you're running at high speed, the Union is a good machine, but I find the stitch lengh to differ too much at different speedsand backstitching to be almost impossible. I have a Landis 3, but it doesn't stitch as nice as the Campbell. Could be the age of the machine, I also wonder, since they were meant to be heated up when run, does that throw off the tolerences? Kevin

That's great, now you'll be too busy building skates to skate. Kevin I meant, those are great. Kevin

I have a little embosser called The Diamond Matchbook Imprinter, I've never searched for one, but it might not be very expensive if you can find one on E-Bay. I see that it and the letters are made by Franklin Manufacturing Corp., Norwood,Mass.. I have gotten the foil from Ohio Travel Bag. I would say if you could control the temp. of the branding iron somehow, that and the foil would do the trick. Good Luck, Kevin

The top catch looks like escution pins and the second looks like copper rivets, but most people would wreck the case or the hardware trying to use either for repair, the split rivet is the way to go and it has to be the correct length or once again you'll wreck something trying to make it work. Guess how I know. Kevin

Once again, I'm just guessing, but since shoe thread is just a single cord and you make up whatever multiple cord thread you want from it , maybe patent thread is thread already made to the size you want i.e. 4cord, 6 cord, 12 cord, for machine use. Kevin

Bigger awl. Kevin Or smaller needles and thread and stitch length

All 3 books probably didn't come out at the same time. The saddle books came out at least a year apart , I think. One person can only do so much. I've heard some people complain about the same things being covered over and over in some of the books. You can't make everybody happy. Kevin

I forgot, does your zipper separate at the bottom or stay together? You may have to cut the bottom off also, so you may need bottom stops or if the bottom is hidden you can just whip it together with thread. I don't know what you may have done already, but one way to make things easier is just cut the old zipper tape away and don't take anything apart. Slap that new zipper on the inside and sew over the old stitching, and you don't have to do all three rows of stitching either if you don't want to. It all depends on what you want it to look like. Did your cobbler tell you zippers don't belong in boots? Or does he just hate zippers period? Have fun, Kevin PS remember when they sewed those zippers they were flat on the table.

Look at the back of the slider and there may be a number on it, I'm guessing it is a no. 10 metal zipper, if so anyone that sells chap supplies will have them. I've never seen any that short, so you'll just have to shorten them which is no problem. Just carefully remove the topstops, cut the tape about an inch longer than you need, use some nippers or sidecutters to cut the extra teeth off put the topstops back on and glue and fold your tape, you're ready to go. Good luck, Kevin

I don't know anything about moose leather, but I've repaired a few bags. If you sew across the handle above the rivet like it looks like they did, the handle may tear off. I would put something kind of stout inside where the handle does attatch or the bag itself could rip when loaded with everything the person owns and tossed around by one handle. It happens. Sounds like it will be nice, have fun, Kevin

If you can have a hole in the middle of your circle, just drive a nail through the middle into your bench, and put a knife through your outside diameter and " spin 'er 'round",. Of course, the nail has to be straight, your knife has to be straight and you have to keep the leather flat. Kevin

Uh-oh Bob, I've got a 29K60 with a double pully and I'm pretty sure two other long arms that I have used in the past had it also. The treadle stands had double pulleys too, I think one pair's for speed and one pair's for power. I just went outside and looked at a 4 I've got in a shed and it has the two speed pulley also. My patching machine stand here at home is actually an Adler and the pulleys measure 9 3/4" and 11 3/4". I have a "dress" machine treadle and it measures 12 1/2". These measurements are the outside edge of the pulley,not in the groove, but that might give you an idea. good luck, Kevin

I absolutely agree with Tony, but if you feel you have to change it, all you need is a file, a rough stone and a fine stone. Kevin

Is the whole bag handstitched or just the handle? How does that guy have 116 years of experience? I don't count 20 guys having 1 year's experience as 20 years experience. I'm just speaking in general, not that specific Co. Kevin

I think press studs is English for snaps. It takes a special tool to set them and different thicknesses of leather require different length pieces on your snaps. On large snaps you can improvise with the setter, but on small snaps, you need the proper tool. I assume you're using a small snap for a credit card holder. I don't know anything about spring snaps, where you can see a little bit of wire in the female piece. We really need more information. Kevin

I guess I'm just kind of traditional, that is a beautiful stand alone, work of art as it is. The shading and beveling are impecable, anything else is gilding the lilly and obscures what you already have. But that is just my opinion. I don't like to use the word perfect, but I sure don't see anything wrong with it. Kevin

WD-40, kerosene, sewing machine oil, automatic trans fluid (hate the smell), I think most any light petroleum product. Kevin

I don't know how well I can describe this, but, I draw the corner, then use my round knife and rock it forward a little, move the leather into it rock forward again and keep going around until done, like you're just taking off a little chip at a time. It amazes me how a bunch of small straight cuts makes a smooth corner. Leather is soft, so when you stick the knife in and try to just cut around the corner you stretch it out of shape, even if it's 10 oz. firm leather. If you cut a little at a time, you're pushing down and not out. Like the difference between using a rolling blade and a drywall knife on chap leather. Maybe that's almost clear. Kevin

Partrade used to have bits and hardware, but I thought they went out of business loong ago, I couldn't say the last time I even heard the name. Kevin