Kevin

The wooden mallets are wackers used when stuffing English saddles. I've never seen them before, but I made one from somebody's description and she loved it. I think you are right about the spacers, I've seen a picture someplace and they use them for shoemaking. The third item is a staple puller, again used in shoemaking. So the answer is yes, they are leatherworking tools. Kevin

When I enlarge the photos, it looks stitched to me. Maybe it's the pixelation from enlarging, but I think it's padded and quilted using lightweight garment leather and Frenched edges. Kevin

7 teeth per inch makes 6 stitches per inch and that does have wide teeth. That's pretty big if you want to make finer leather goods. Personally, I would go down to at least a 9 per inch and you will get smaller teeth. It also depends on what you want your finished items to look like and thread size. Some people like a chunky handmade look. I had a wallet made in the '70s that had huge stitches and thread and I still like the look of it, but I could not bring myself to do that. Good luck, Kevin

Is that veg tanned leather or chrome tanned leather? Kevin

I also notice whenever hats have been stretched. You can clearly see the outline of the stretcher. Kevin

Sometimes if there's not enough pressure on the presser foot, the layers of leather separate and the thread kind of catches and pops when the needle comes out. Maybe. Kevin

The Irish Barbour's may be different quality than the Barbour's we get that is made in Georgia. Our Barbour's may be different now also since it is owned by Coats and Clarke, I haven't bought any for 8 or 9 years and it was inconsistant. Kevin

There is no standard for grading in the US. Whatever a company wants to call it is what it is. Kevin

Hey Art, Thanks. I don't know if I've never thought about changing grits or if my supplier told me 15 years ago he only had 2. Sometimes you get so hide bound, you forget what's out there. Kevin

If you just want a little rosin, I think you can pick it up at a bowling alley in small packages. Kevin

I bought one when they first came out in the early '90s. I think I spent a day "refining" it and it served me well for almost twenty years in a shop setting. The blade was a little soft and finally wore out. They don't seem to have a replacement blade anymore and I don't know if I'd spend the money on one from them anyway. I ended up getting a new blade and putting it on an old Osborne 84. Kevin

Beeswax and nubuck?

I think you're saying the leather flops over when you try to stab it. If that's the case, I put something behind it to stab into,like a piece of cloud crepe or cork, something soft but firm. Kevin

I just line the marks up with the top of my stitching horse jaws and let the awl slide on the wood. I have a strip of thin brass glued to the inside of the jaws to make sure that line is straight as the wood sometimes gets worn. I also stab all my holes at one time to keep them consistent. Another thing is, if the point of your awl is too long and sharp, it will go through wherever you put it, instead of going where the pricking iron impression should force it. Hope that helps, Kevin

Campbell- Bosworth has some of the parts. Kevin

If it's something small, I tape the pattern to the leather, if it won't waste too much leather. That also reinforces your pattern if you want to use it again. Kevin

The "pores" in pigskin go all the way through, so it has excellent breathability. Kevin

I've put leather sweat bands in a couple hats for myself using a backstitch. I used about a 2/3 oz leather. The bad news is, after sweating and getting the band wet, when it dries, sometimes it shrinks so much, you can't get the hat on. Since your hats are heavier, you may not have that problem. If I were to try it again, I would try to check out some hat suppliers websites to see if sweat bands are made of a specially treated type of leather. Good luck, Kevin

I use the rotary cutter on any leather that will stretch or creep when you try to cut it. I've only used the Fiskars 65mm, so I can't say which is best. I have bought some much cheaper ones with smaller blades thinking they would be better for curves, but I haven't tried them yet. Kevin

I got a newer Hermes in for a new seat and they have gone back to handsewing the pull skirt. I guess since they're not the big fish anymore in French saddles, they have to try harder. Kevin

The easiest thing would be to aplique stuff onto an existing pair or get a plain pair and do fancy stitching with a patching machine. Kevin

I've been looking for it for over ten years. I think you have to want it enough to have it made. I've been told it doesn't stretch sideways, it is very wide elastic that stretches normally. I did have some sideways stretching elastic at one time, but you'd have to put 2 or 3 plies together to get any strength. It was more like needlepoint canvas than regular elastic. I used to have 3/4" and 1 1/2" elastic made by George Moore, but they went up on the minimums and I had to get it from a supplier and then they went up further on the minimum 'til the supplier couldn't get it anymore either. Manufacturers don't want to mess with small buyers, when they can sell all they can make to one company or two. Anybody speak Chinese? I will be watching this thread, hopefully someone is more resourceful than me. Kevin

You just need a band knife splitter, kinda like a bandsaw but horizontal. Just a few thousand and takes up the space of a dining room buffet. Fine leathergoods are not easy. Good luck, Kevin

Those are for setting the teeth on a saw. Sorry, Kevin PS I've bought one myself.

Kind of looks like a roller buckle they took the roller off of and then "antiqued" it with a rivet hammer. Kevin