BillB

Rusty - I used Fiebings Leather Dyes. Greybeard - I have done carved letters and could not get the clean lines or the consistency I get using the letterpress type. I would rather spend my time on the art work anyway. BillB.

Punchy379, If you have not already done so, you might consider posting this question in the "Fabrication" sub forum in the "Leather Sewing Machines" section. If you click on "Leatherworker.net" in the character string "Leatherworker.net>Leatherworker Board>How Do I Do That?" at that top of this page it will take you to the top of the forum. You can then scroll down to the Fabrication section and find the area on Leather Sewing Machines. BillB.

Kathy, I am not sure what you mean by "Background". Are you referring to the hide itself? There is the skin side where the hair would be. If the hair/fur was still attached that would look different from a skin where all the hair has been removed and it is smooth. The flesh side is usually rougher. Since you used the term "sheared" that usually refers to the hair or fur and cutting it off, like in shearing the sheep. Tanning on the other hand refers to the techniques used to prepare and preserve the skin/hide. Later on you refer to "art done on cow, deer or elk" which raises additional questions. Did you find those pictures? BillB

tat2, You might consider moving this post over to the "Leather Sewing Machines" area in the "Fabrication" sub-forum. BillB.

Andy, Welcome to the Forum. You will find lots of good folks and good conversation here. We have all had our 1st project and are willing to share our experiences. You will find that there is no "right" way and lots of "wrong" ways. Find the "Way" that works best for you. Look around, there are lots of different areas on the site. Find the ones you are interested in and when you are comfortable, join in. Most of all remember: "The only dumb question is the one you did not ask." Again, welcome to the Forum. BillB

Judas, Welcome to the forum. Nice workmanship. Lots of good folks here, all trying to keep alive and advance the art of leathercraft. Look around and join in where you like. Sharing is a major part of learning and growing what we all know. Again, welcome to the forum. BillB

Mike, I would also like to offer you a hearty Welcome to the Forum. Lots of good folks and good conversation. BillB

Stephen, Welcome to the Forum. As Tom has already mention, lots of good folks here interested in furthering the art of leathercraft. Walk around and explore. There are lots of good sub forum and topic areas. Find the ones you are interested in and join in. Coffee and donuts are free. BillB

Greybeard, Welcome to the Forum. Lots of good folks here. Nice work on both types of "Skin". Walk around, have some coffee and a donut. Join in on the conversations. BillB.

Bondo Bob, Welcome to the Forum. As previously stated, there are lots of folks here that are interested in promoting and furthering leathercraft. If you go to the main forum page by clicking on the "Leatherwork.net" in the upper left of this page in the string of characters "Leatherworker.net>Leatherworker Board> Member Gallery". Scroll down the page until you see the section titled "Leather is tanned animal skins, and is a byproduct of the meat industry" you will find a sub-forum on "Computer Help". Again Welcome to the Forum and look forward to seeing some photos of your work. BillB.

I have not had a chance to post lately and thought I would add some of my latest work. The Retirement present was for Admiral Vic See, US Navy. The emblem is that of the his command. I have know him since he was a Lt. Commander. The portfolio itself is my own design. I will either sew or lace the pieces together. On the back, not pictured here, is a turtle totem. The Christmas Presents for Buddy and Mickey are the new Tandy Portfolio Kits where as Kyrie's is the older Tandy Portfolio Kit. The Celtic and flower patterns are from Tandy. The lettering on all four was done using Metal Letterpress Type. I now have five different type sets and looking for my sixth. I have: 12pt Century Old Style Bold 18pt Stymie 18pt Arial 36pt Cheltenham Bold Italic 48pt Century One thing I have learned using metal letterpress type is to be careful on the Fonts. The 36pt Cheltenham Bold Italic has letters with ends that go beyond the main support block of metal for the letter. This has caused the "W" letter to fracture off one tip due to the pressure used to imprint the leather. I am now working with "Letter Preservation" in Cincinnati, Ohio to find a non-Italic's version so that all the letters are fully supported by the main metal block. BillB

Rhonda, Welcome to the Forum. Although I know it is boring, rest the arm as GO2Tex says. I have broken: femur in left leg (required a rod to fix); compound fracture of both bones in lower right leg (9 months in casts); right wrist; and hair line fracture of skull at left temple. The time you spend healing now will help out a whole lot in the later years. I still have bone chips floating in my right wrist and I am right handed. Just think of all the reading you can do on the various threads on this forum. Take some time read about all the different areas you can go into in leather crafts. BillB

Roo, Looks like something the Bird People in Flash Gordon would wear. I know some bikers that would wear it too. Nicel done. BillB

Denise, What about Canadian Bacon or Pauline's Pilot Biscuits? Those are the two things I remember most from canoe trips in canada in the 50's and 60's. Nothing like the smell and taste of Canadian Bacon frying in the skillet on a cool June morning in the Quetico Park. BillB

Adamant-Leather, I use a number of products depending on the purpose of the product and the surface look I want. I have stopped using any of the "Sheen" products since they are a polycarbon (plastic) sealer that does not allow the leather to breath. Since leather is the skin of an animal, it needs to be treated like skin. The most natural look comes from no surface treatment and let the leather age with the natural oils it will pick up during use. Things that are handled alot will pick up oils of the human hand. This also means that it wil pick up the dirt with the oil and some cleaning with Saddle Soap may be required from time to time. And Saddle Soap does put some oil back into the leather. If I want an all natural look, I will use Neatsfoot Oil or even Lexol. This works well on any working leather item such as belts, straps, etc. If I want a smoother finish, I will use Neat-Lac, or Carnauba Wax. Of course, the amount of leather treatment applied also depends on the leather product. For example a Quick Draw Leather Holster needs to be very stiff and formed to the gun and the Quick Draw Artist. This usually requires forming the wet leather, so any leather treatment must be on the surface and not soften the leather to the point of it losing its shape. In the case of a Work Holster, e.g. out back hunting, protection from moister and keeping the leather healthy for a long life of heavy use is important, a good soaking of high quality penetrating oil works best. This has been my experience. I hope it helps. BilB.

There is another thread on the Forum that talks about using an Ink Jet Printer to print onto leather. Could this possibly be the answer? BillB

emma, Welcome to the forum. Glad you finally figured out how to post. Looking forward to seeing pictures of your work. BillB

Kustomizer, Welcome to the Forum. Glad you decide to join in on the fun. As you have already seen there are lots of areas to explore and a lot of talented folks. You will, for the most part, find them very friendly and willing to kick in their 2 cents worth of advice and share their experiences. Life is an adventure, and I continue to learn new things. Leather working is one that I continue to enjoy over the years. We are all trying to make this craft better and to improve our own work. Join in the conversations and share your experiences, that is how we all learn. The coffee and donuts are down the hall, just watch out for any fuzz on the donuts. BillB

CD, Welcome to the Forum. I think you will find lots of friendly and helpful folks on this site. If you have not already found it, there is a Forum for Fabrication which includes an area for Leather Sewing Machines. There is Forum for Specialty Leather Work with a Sub-Forum for Other Specialties which includes a section for SHoes, Boots, Sandals and Moccasins. Look around, join in on the conversation, have some coffee and donuts, and most importantly have fun, learn and share. BillB

As Bob has mentioned above, I too have gone to using letterpress type. I now have 4 different font sets and will probably acquire a few more from ebay. I am using the lever press that Tandy sells and a custom built metal holder for the type. I just finished three portfolios for my grandkids where I used letterpress type to put their names on the front. Unfortunately, they are currently wrapped and I forgot to take pictures. Since they will be unwrapped tomorrow, I will have the pictures later this weekend. Letterpress type also gives the option for Upper and Lower case, which adds a nice touch to names. BillB.

Bruce Thanks for the insight. I have yet to decide which way I want to go on this, horizontal or vertical. I do leather Bifold Notebooks which are big and custom holsters that can be rather small. I also do purses which can have both large and small pieces that should have their edges burnished or finished off. Since folks had discussed how good Weaver products are, I thought I would ask. I am currently using muscle power and Dermal Power. I have a Radial Arm saw that could give me both axis, but is not in a good location at this time. I will have to check the motor speed since it is direct drive. Again, thanks for the insight.

Although Ivan makes a "wonderful" machine, I was still wondering if anyone would care to answer my original question????? BillB.

Oh well, just going off what was written on the inside cover of my copy. BillB

I am considering buying a Weaver Power Edge Slicker and I am looking for any advice/comments from folks who have had one, used it, price/value, etc. I am looking at the new design that has both the sanding drum as well as the wooden roller. Please no food fights. I prefer to leave the coffee, tea, donuts, and cookies in their appropriate places. BillB.

jawilliams, I would like to second what TwinOaks has already said and welcome you to the Forum BillB