zuludog

I think that the two most common reasons for a belt turning out to be too short are - Your waist of your trousers/pants may be, for example, 34" but that is against your skin. Remember that belts need to go over your clothes so you should give them a bit extra, say 1,5 to 2" But to have a belt that is short by 4 or 5" it sounds like somehow you've got confused and forgotten to include the buckle turnover there are loads of videos on YouTube about making a belt, have a look at a few and see how it's done You could also make a mock up or pattern - cut some card, say breakfast cereal packets into strips and tape them together till you have a belt length. Then make it up as you would for leather and see what it's like Ah! I've just re - read your OP, where you say you bought a blank - did you actually measure it yourself to check, or did you just assume that the measurements from the supplier were correct?

As in the link posted by Hardrada I can recommend 'The Leatherworking Handbook' by Valerie MIchael and 'The Art of Hand Sewing Leather' by Al Stohlman Nigel Armitage is a widely recognised expert on leatherwork, and his book is due out soon, I've already ordered it - 'Leathercraft: Traditional Handcrafted Leatherwork Skills and Projects' There is a lot of information on YouTube. J H Leather has videos on making dog collars, and other things. These YT channels are also good - Nigel Armitage, Ian Atkinson, Geordie Leather. Just Search for 'beginners leatherwork'; 'making shoes', and so on

Use the padding that came with the pony; if it works, why change it? If you need to change it, I'd use undyed veg tan and glue it on with whatever you have. It would be very rare to change the leather on a stitching pony. When and if you do it won't be very difficult to cut and scrape it off, back to the wood Have a look at a few YouTube videos and you'll see that some of their leather padding has obviously been on their pony for a long time and seen much use, but it's still OK

I have some Tandy Craftool Pro edgers, but I was never too happy with them. As I'm staying in and not going on holiday thanks to the Lockdown I have been saving money, so I've recently treated myself to a set of Palosanto edgers; they're much better and give a neat finish. They get a very good review by Nigel Armitage, but be warned, they're not cheap They were very sharp straight out of the box, and so far I haven't needed to sharpen them However the contouring of the handle has a narrow neck which needs getting used to. Also someone reported on a British Facebook group that they are so fine that he split one; he replaced it with Kemovan, which are cheaper, and he's happy enough with it

I would use 1,2 to 1,6mm thick = 3 to 4oz leather Search YouTube for making a wallet. There are loads of videos of all types, several have downloadable free patterns

Nigel Armitage's book is imminent - 'Leathercraft: Traditional Handcrafted Leatherwork Skills and Projects'. I've ordered mine from Amazon UK, it's expected in early December. It's also listed on Amazon USA, expected at the end of October. Of course there might be other suppliers that I don't know of

Well it's interesting! It's the sort of thing that someone will just see it and love it. So if the adherence & texture are even and OK, go ahead and use it I think it would look good with contrasting stitching, like bright red

Yes, I would think that a strap cutter would do the job No, you don't need a wooden backing for a strop, but it's more usual, and I think many people would prefer it. Could try both and see what the customer reaction is It depends how complicated you want to be. Could make a presentation box to contain a knife, a small piece of stropping compound, a small diamond sharpening stone or paddle of some kind, and a strop on the lid. Or put it all in a blister pack or similar Search YouTube for how to make a strop. Most of the videos will be for one - off strops, but you might get some ideas You might be able to use offcuts or second grade leather, but that would mean more work for yourself in selecting and fiddling around Although this forum is based in USA there are people on it from all over the world, such as myself. I happen to know that SoCal = Southern California, but not everyone does; you could have made that clear

OK, here are a few more comments 3mm chisels are best used for thinner leather, say 2mm thick, for things like belt pouches, including pouches/sheaths for folding knives & multi tools; larger belt pouches aka possibles bags; bullet/cartridge holders; covers for mobile phones and similar electronic devices; notebook covers such as Fieldnotes, Moleskine; bags & satchels; and making a wallet/holder for your stitching chisels As you do wood carving you could make a tool roll for your tools - Search YT; or simple slip on covers, I have done that for my leatherworking knives Can also use 3mm on thinner 1,0 to 1,5mm leather for wallets Unless you are making a bushcraft sheath which has straight sides, most knife sheaths are curved, so you can't use a chisel with lots of prongs, a 2 prong 5mm chisel is plenty for getting started, you don't need a full set. You can always add to it. And even a bushcraft sheath has curved parts Most stitching chisels are measured between the points, but Tandy Craftool, with the all - black finish, are measured between the sides of the prongs, so the distance between the points is a bit bigger. So 4mmTandy Craftool is about 5,5mm between the points. The easiest way round this problem is just to stay with Craftool Pro (Silver finish) or the Kyoshin Elle from RMLS To make it clear, when you polish the prongs you are smoothing the sides, and rounding off the angle where the slope of the bevel for the point meets the straight sides of the prong YouTube is your friend! Search for techniques and any items you might fancy making. There are usually loads of videos, follow the links & prompts and watch as many as you have the stamina for! You will see how other people do things, and that there are variations on a theme; after a while you will develop your own method Search YT for videos on the saddle stitch, you will use this for most leatherwork, and you might also stray onto the choice of thread. There are lots of videos, and some will probably show you the trick that is used when threading needles -- taper the end of the thread by cutting it on a slant or feathering the last 5mm or so with the tip of a knife; when you wax the thread it closes up to a point These channels are good - Nigel Armitage.......Ian Atkinson..........JH Leather...............Geordie Leather............Weaver Leathercraft...........and many others of course

I have a few awls, including an Osborne as you've shown, and it's the best I have. However, even this needed a bit of polishing on a fine stone and a strop - most new all blades do, unless you're getting the really expensive exotica where the maker has done that for you, and accounts for the high price If you intend going through those 3 layers of leather, which would amount to 9 or 10mm I'd get a #43 blade Search YouTube for 'sharpening an awl' there are several videos

Ah, sewing -- welcome to the fun! Let's take the three items in order - stitching chisels; needles; thread, and also what you would like to make To make sheaths you would typically use 2,5mm to 3mm thick leather, so you should use wider rather than closer stitch spacing. Also, it is easier to sew with wider stitch spacing, and as a beginner you would appreciate that. And here's another point, if you're using thicker thread you should also choose wider stitch spacing Which brings us onto the choice of stitching chisels Unfortunately, I think the 3mm spacing Tandy chisels you already have are a bit too close, and you would do better with wider spacing. So although you might not like spending more I would have a look at 5mm Kyoshin Elle chisels from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. No need to buy a full set; a 2 or 3 - prong is about $15 and will get you started. See how you go, you can always add more, or go down a size Thread........ 0,6mm diameter thread will do for most leatherwork, though some people like 0,8mm for heavier work; but for now, stay with 0,6mm Synthetic thread is usually braided polyester, and the dia is given directly in mm. RMLS sell short lengths of Ritza 25 aka Tiger thread. It is very popular and well worth trying As an old traditional industry, describing the dia of linen thread is a bit confusing, but all you need to know is that 0,6mm is size 18/3 or 432 in the French system Needles.........JJ size 1/0 are too big. Buy some JJ size 002 needles, they are the right size for most leatherwork and will accept 0,6mm, 18/3, and 432 thread JJ needles have a smallish eye, even on the larger sizes. Tandy needles SKU 1195 - 00 have larger eyes (in fact they are often called Tandy Big-Eye Needles) and you can use thicker thread on them. If the thread is too thick for those needles then you don't really want to use it for sewing leather anyway Neither the JJ 002 nor the Tandy needles are very expensive, and you will have a choice of needles for most threads for the forseeable future. You will probably be able to use the thread you have already bought. You say there were some needles in the original box you bought. As you acquire different thread you might be able to use those, it's just a question of playing around and seeing what suits you Stitching chisels work better if you polish the prongs. Get a thin sliver of wood, like a lollipop sick, or a thin, but stiff, strip of plastic or aluminium, and glue some wet & dry abrasive paper to it, to make a small file. Start with 400 grit then down to 600 or even 800. Polish & smooth the sides & points of the prongs so they go in & out of the leather more easily. It also helps to rub the prongs with beeswax You can see that I do knife making, including the sheaths. I use 2,5 to 3,0mm natural vegetable tanned leather, usually shoulders, which I dye myself. But I have sometimes left it undyed, just greased, and it mellows to a sort of mustard yellow or very pale tan colour I use stitching chisels with 5mm spacing; JJ 002 needles; 0,6mm synthetic or 18/3 or 432 linen thread. Here's a thought -- no-one likes spending money, but you might find it easier to just buy a decent set of kit in the first place, then play around with the items you already have when you've gained some experience. From Rocky Mountain Leather supply you could get -- One stitching chisel, about $15; JJ 002 needles, about $7; 0,6mm Ritza 25 about $7 = about $30, and it is a good combination A knife sheath will have a font, a back, and a welt, so that's 3 + 3 + 3 = 9mm. A stiching chisel might not penetrate all the way through that thickness, so one technique is to start the holes with a chisel then complete them with an awl. In which case you may as well get an awl from RMLS when you place an order. Kyoshin Elle and Vergez-Blanchard are reasonably priced, and an awl is useful to have, even if you do most of the work with chisels Search YouTube for making a knife sheath, there are loads of videos, often with slight variations; you'll soon work out what suits you

The same sort of tools & techniques are used to make many items, and there is a lot of information on YouTube. Search for the techniques such as saddle stitch, edge finishing and so on; and how to make...belts....wallets....knife sheaths or whatever and you'll see how things are done. Could also search for 'beginners leather tools', and the Tools section on this Forum Have a look at these YT channels - JH Leather....Ian Atkinson....Nigel Armitage.....Geordie Leather. There are many others of course, as many as you have the stamina for!

Clamp down your piece of leather at an end or edge, and plane away from that fixed point - assuming you are using a traditional hand plane As I mentioned, look at YT videos on making an inlay sheath, they show & explain things much better than just words I would guess that things like snake or fish skin would be pretty thin anyway, and wouldn't add much to the total thickness

I've never done inlay work on a sheath, or anything else for that matter, but I know the principle - The front part of the sheath is sewn at the edges, and has a hole in the middle for the inlay The decorative/exotic inlay piece is placed under the front part but doesn't reach as far as the edge; it is sewn just around the border of the hole Skive the edge of the inlay and under the perimeter of the hole so that it isn't too thick, and doesn't have a step on the front piece Alternatively use an inlay that reaches to the edge of the sheath, and skive both the inlay and the front piece so that the edge of the sheath isn't too thick . Skive and sew down around the edge of the hole Search YouTube for 'leather inlay knife sheath' and 'skiving leather', there are several videos For skiving larger areas than just the edges or ends of leather I use a razor plane, which is like a finer version of a carpenter's plane It is a reasonably priced compromise between the ease of an expensive skiving machine and the difficulty of using a freehand skiving knife or even a Safety skiver on larger areas

I had a look at those books and thought well, yes, they're OK and nice to have but not for the high price demanded Watch YT videos for free, and put your money into decent leatherworking tools - and the leather of course! As I posted earlier there are loads of videos and you'll soon pick it up Try making something simple first, like a key fob, you'll still be using the techniques of pattern making; cutting out; saddle stitch; edge finishing

Ah but think of the benefits! You will have many more toys and tools and knives to play with and spend your money on

Who knows how we settle on a hobby? I, too, started with knife making and realised I had better learn to make the sheaths; I think several people on this forum got started that way. At first it was just a means to an end to make the sheaths, but I now also make belts and wallets If you do start doing leatherwork you will quickly realise that the same construction techniques - sewing, edge finishing, dyeing etc are used in many items - belts, sheaths, belt pouches, wallets and so on And one of the first things you will need to learn is the saddle stitch YouTube is your friend, Search it for techniques and how to make specific items. In your case knife sheaths, including making a sheath for a round knife, are an obvious choice, but consider others, and watch as many as you have the stamina for. You'll soon see the methods and the tools that are used - you have a whole lot of new jargon to learn; welcome to the fun! I can recommend these channels - Nigel Armitage.....Ian Atkinson.......J H Leather.......Geordie Leather Don't be afraid of the suppliers! email or phone them, explain that you're a beginner and what you'd like to do. After all, they know their stock, and it is in their interests to help you But before you buy anything you might think about asking on this Forum for suggestions and opinions on your possible choices

Yes, John James needles For the most used diameter of thread, which is 0,6mm synthetic, 18/3 linen or 432 linen in the French system choose John James Saddlers Harness needles product code L3912 size 002. Beware; JJ sizing system is a bit confusing. Make sure you get size 002 and not 2/0 Incidentally, what thread do you use? RMLS sell the Chinese Yue Fung thread, both linen and synthetic under their own 'Twist' name, and it's excellent

I've wondered if a large wood carving knife could be used or modified for fine leather cutting And you shouldn't have much difficulty making a skiving knife; an English style leather paring knife; a kiridashi; or a Japanese style leather knife; some of them are similar anyway - as if you didn't have enough to do! And have a look at Vergez - Blanchard's L'indispensible knife, both on their website and YT; you could probably make something similar, but with a fixed instead of an interchangeable blade I made a Japanese style leather knife from an old box plane blade, and once you've got used to the asymmetric/offset blade it's easy enough to use; look for those on YT as well

Have a look at these YT videos and you'll see the sort of thing I mean - How to hold and use a Round Knife by UK Saddlery How to polish a Leather Round Knife by Leathercraft Masterclass How to sharpen your Head Knife for Leather Work by J H Leather Also have a look on Vergez - Blanchard and George Barnsley and Sons' websites. But note that as a traditional manufacturer Barnsley only give you a basic cutting edge and you are expected to do the final sharpening & polishing yourself as that keeps the cost down, and you can adjust it to suit yourself I have a Barnsley Head Knife and it does take a while to do that, but once you've got the edge right, it's excellent To add a bit of interest you can compare UK Saddlery's Scottish/Glaswegian accent with J H Leather's middle class English accent

I can't give you any technical specs, but I'd say go for a long, low angled gradual taper or bevel, without any noticeable step or shoulder

The naming of these sort of knives is a bit confusing. I've always known the full leather knife with two points as a round knife, and the type with one point as a head knife; plus there are a few variations such as a French style leather knife, Chartermade, and so on. If you're making a one - off for yourself you can make it to suit yourself The round knife is well established, but it takes some practice & experience to use it well. A head knife is easier to use, and cheaper if you are buying one. However, they will both do the same job. As for the other shapes, it's just what you fancy, and think you will be able to use Search YouTube for making a round knife...........a head knife.............a leather knife, and there are several videos There are also several videos on using & sharpening these sorts of knives; pretty much the same sort of techniques, even though there are variations in the shape of the blade Have a look at videos by JH Leather; she uses a head knife for most of her work, even though the shape is a bit different to the one you are planning Just one thing - modern circular saw blades often have a relatively soft central part, with only the teeth and the rim made from harder steel, so check what you have before you make it. If that's the case you could still make something like a skiving knife or a Japanese style leather knife

Yes, that's a thought. You say you are a beginner - have you got a strop? They're easy enough to make, Search YT

Getting an awl blade right is not straightforward. It's easy enough to get it nearly there, but getting it just right is remarkably fiddly and frustrating I suggest you have a look at all the YT videos on sharpening an awl. There aren't too many, and you'll start to see how it's done, picking up a bit more information and ideas from each one These are good - How to Sharpen leather awl; Dixon Diamond parts 1 & 2 by Leathertoolz Details made perfection - awl sharpening by Leathercraft Masterclass How to sharpen a stitching awl by Zestien In those they have close ups of what a finished blade should look like Interestingly, in Nigel Armitage's video he leaves the tip fairly pointed. I suppose it's just personal preference Leathertoolz used end cutters to nip off the tip of the blade, but you could use side cutters or the wire cutting part of the jaws on engineer's pliers You could also just grind back the tip on a medium to fine stone But whatever you use, remember that it's a lot easier to remove metal than it is to put it back on again! You have a good selection of abrasive paper Yes, you can use stitching chisels as pricking irons. JH Leather uses pricking irons and an awl for most of her sewing, that will show how they're used. If you watch her sewing with an awl it's magic to watch, and a standard for us all - well, certainly me - to aim for

It's reasonably easy, and therefore relatively cheap to make tools for leatherwork like knives, awls, and stitching chisels, but with these you only get a basic or average standard of finish, and traditionally you are expected to do the final finishing, sharpening, and polishing yourself. That's the main reason why top class tools are so expensive, as the maker has done that for you, but that usually involves careful hand finishing, which takes time & money. Sharpening an awl yourself is tedious and fiddly, but it saves money Search YT for 'sharpening an awl' and there are several videos, and I think they all follow the same method - pushing the blade back & forth on a fine stone or abrasive paper followed by a strop. An awl blade has has a diamond cross section, and you need to smooth & polish each face so that it slides through the leather easily. The two edges should be fairly sharp and polished, but they don't need to be absolutely razor sharp Have the blade almost flat to do the faces, and raise the handle slightly to do the tip The tip of the awl should not be a fine needle point, it should have a very small rounded chisel tip. Snip off the end 1 or 2mm , then regrind, reshape, & polish. Have a careful look at other people's awls on YT to see what it should be like For polishing I would use 600 then 1000 then 1500 grit wet & dry paper, with a drop or two of water; followed by stropping If you have a cheap Craftool awl I assume it's from Tandy. If it is - Stitching Awl 31218 - 01 or Craftool Pro 83020-00 then you're in with a chance The 4-in-1 awl 3209-00 is notoriously poor quality (that's the polite version) If you have that you could use the round/scratch awl blade as there's not much you can do wrong with those, but don't bother with the diamond awl blades, cut your losses and get something else, ie better If you have to buy another diamond awl I would consider a Vergez - Blanchard from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply or an Osborne haft with a chuck or collet and a #42 or #43 Osborne blade from Weaver When you've finished the blade should slide through the leather easily - see how JH Leather does it Preparing and sharpening an awl like this takes a while, but once you've got it right you should only need to strop occasionally